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An additional global product is now available: the ASTER Water Body Dataset (ASTWBD). This raster product identifies all water bodies as either ocean, river, or lake. Each GDEM tile has a corresponding Water Body tile.The GDEM and ASTWBD are available for download from NASA Earthdata and Japan Space Systems.This ASTER product is available at no charge for any user pursuant to an agreement between METI and NASA. For more information about the GDEM, see the Validation Report: ASTER GDEM V2 Validation Summary Report.

The New World species have now been reclassified in the genera Almutaster, Canadanthus, Doellingeria, Eucephalus, Eurybia, Ionactis, Oligoneuron, Oreostemma, Sericocarpus and Symphyotrichum, though all are treated within the same tribe, Astereae. The "China aster" is in the related genus Callistephus. Regardless of the taxonomic change, most are still widely referred to as "asters", or "Michaelmas daisies", because of their typical blooming period.

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One of the few flowers left around Michaelmas in the British Isles is the Michaelmas daisy (another name for asters), hence the rhyme: "The Michaelmas daisies, among dead weeds, Bloom for St Michael's valorous deeds..."[15]

Cold-hardy perennials with daisy-like flowers, aster flowers are the pollinator stars of the garden from late summer through fall. Growing 1 to 6 feet tall, depending on variety, these upright flowering plants bear cheerful star-shaped flower heads ranging from purple to white to blue.

Even though there are more than 600 aster species, the two most commonly encountered asters in home gardening are the New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) and the New York aster (S. novi-belgii). Several years ago, the Aster genus was split into multiple genera. Aster now covers most European and Asian asters, while those native to North America belong to Symphyotrichum.

Asters prefer areas with cool, moist summers and cool nights in sites with full to partial sun. In warmer climates, asters do not like the hot midday sun. Soil should be moist but well-drained and loamy. Wet clay soil will lead to root rot, and dry sandy soil will lead to plant wilt. Mix 2 to 3 inches of compost into the soil before planting.

The most common asters available in North America are the New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) and the New York aster (Symphyotrichum novi-belgii). Both of these plants are native to North America and are great flowers for pollinators. We recommend planting a native species of aster over a non-native species when possible, so talk with your local Cooperative Extension or garden center about which species are best suited to your area. Look for varieties with disease resistance.

I challenge this statement: "Asters prefer areas with cool, moist summers and cool nights in sites with full to partial sun." While the native asters in the yard did not do that well during drought conditions in the northeast, the ultra-hot weather this year, combined with higher rainfall produced tall plants with ample blossoms.

While asters prefer cooler conditions that does not mean the plants can not survive and even thrive during stretches of hotter conditions, especially once they are established. The flowers do best when the temperatures are cooler in the late summer and fall. Since asters prefer moist soil, it is important that they receive enough water/precipitation to keep them growing during hot and/or dry stretches.

Asters are the grand finale of the perennial garden, with vivid fall hues in pinks, purples, blues, and white. They're also one of the remaining great places for bees, butterflies, and other pollinators to find food. Beautiful blooms and a flurry of fascinating creatures are a two-for-one offer for gardeners. It encompasses around 170 species, but once contained nearly 600. The name comes from an ancient Greek word meaning star, pointing to the shape of the flower head. The two most popular types of aster are New England aster and China aster. When selecting an aster for your yard, you will want to determine the height, bloom color, and bloom time that you desire, as these vary from aster to aster.

You can grow asters through propagation or by seed. Asters should be planted after the last frost of the spring. To start your seeds indoors, get them going about six to eight weeks before you are ready to transplant them outdoors. When selecting a location to grow asters, look for an area with full sun (six to eight hours of sun per day) to partial sun (four to six hours of sun per day). Be sure you don't choose an area where the soil readily dries out. For seedlings that were sown indoors, transplant into the garden six to eight inches apart. To direct sow the seeds, spread them across the surface of moistened soil. Repeat this process several times every 10 to 14 days to ensure you have an extended blooming season.

Maintaining asters is not difficult. However, it is important to not let the soil dry out. It is a good idea to mulch around each plant to keep weeds at bay and retain the moisture levels. If any taller flower stalks begin to fall over, the use of a stake should be considered. Do your best not to crowd aster, as to ensure good airflow between the plants. Planting your asters in different locations each year helps to reduce the spread of any potential pests or disease.

Reportedly, there are over 250 different types of asters growing all over the world. Botanists have reclassified this genus after studying the plant's morphology and DNA. The Aster genus is restricted to plants native to Europe and Asia. The species native to North America belong to two other genera, Symphyotrichum and Eurybia. The common name remains Aster for all the genera.

Aster yellows is a viral-like disease caused by a phytoplasma (formerly called a mycoplasma-like organism). Insects that suck the sap of plants, especially the aster leafhopper, vector the disease. Aster leafhoppers are insects that annually migrate northward from their winter home in areas along the Gulf of Mexico. Aster yellows is a disease that affects over 300 species of plants, including ornamentals such as aster, coneflower, zinnia, marigold, chrysanthemum, petunia, and snapdragon. Edibles affected include lettuce, carrot, tomato, and celery. Grasses and grains also are hosts. Weeds that may harbor the disease include plantain, dandelion, and other broad-leafed weeds.

The spread of aster yellows is worse in cool, wet summers. Hot dry weather is not favorable for either the phytoplasma or the leafhopper. As with many disease and pest problems, diagnosis is perhaps the most important factor in controlling aster yellows.

A somewhat similar appearing problem on coneflowers is caused by an eriophyid mite. Experts are still sorting this problem out but the lower pictures on this page may be caused by this yet unnamed eriophyid mite. At present the common name used for this disorder is coneflower rosette mite. It may be a controllable problem through sanitation practices (disposal of all affected flowers as they appear and all foliage in the fall) unlike aster yellows for which there is no cure other than to destroy infected plants.

Chlorosis, yellowing of the leaves while the veins remain green, is a major symptom of aster yellows. Growth slows down and leaves may be smaller and more narrow than usual. Foliage is sometimes curled. Flowers may be deformed and exhibit bizarre tufts of deformed leaves inside the flower or in place of the flower. Flowers may not produce seeds. The symptoms of the disease will often differ depending upon what species is infected. For instance, carrot roots may be bitter and hairy while lettuce may show pink or tan spots and have twisted inner leaves.

1. Remove diseased plants. Once a plant is infected with aster yellows, it is a lost cause since the disease is incurable. Early diagnosis and prompt removal of infected plants may help reduce the spread of the disease. Although the disease itself is not fatal to the plant, its presence makes it impossible for a plant to fulfill its intended role in the garden.

2. Plant less susceptible plant species. Controlling aster yellows is difficult. As long as infected leafhoppers are around, they can infect plants. A practical way to avoid having problems with this disease is to grow plants that are not as susceptible to aster yellows. Verbena, salvia, nicotiana, geranium, cockscomb, and impatiens are among the least susceptible plants.

They can be planted in containers using a lightweight potting mix. Make sure your pot has a drainage hole and that there is easy access to water nearby. Some people even grow potted asters indoors.CARE REQUIREMENTSWater:Once established, they require little watering, unless conditions have become unusually dry and the plants show signs of stress. New York aster (Symphyotrichum novi-belgii) cultivars have shallow roots and may need more frequent watering during the summer, especially when planted in free-draining soils. Keep soil moist, but not saturated. Mulching to reduce water loss is an important strategy for preventing disease.

Recent studies have shown that paclitaxel exhibits these same concentration dependent effects in vivo when visualized by intravital microscopy [6]. A sub-therapeutic dose of 1.2 mg/kg extended the duration of mitosis in dividing tumor cells. These cells formed bipolar spindles, often with chromosomal alignment defects, and they eventually completed mitosis. However, slightly higher, antitumor concentrations of paclitaxel caused dividing tumor cells to arrest in mitosis, often with multiple asters [6]. Although recent studies clearly indicated that the antitumor actions of microtubule targeted agents also involved their effects on interphase cells [7,8], the finding that the formation of multiple microtubule asters is closely correlated with effective antitumor doses of paclitaxel suggested that a more detailed analysis of this process may inform the antitumor mechanisms of microtubule stabilizers, including paclitaxel. 006ab0faaa