I really want to make this laser cut cryptex that I found on instructables with my own improvement but I ran out of time, it's still a really cool item though so even though this page is redundant I wanted to leave it here and who knows next time you check out this instructable I may well have populated this step with my own reworking of it.
I did a lot of research before building this cabinet. Mainly looking at other people's designs. There are a lot of great instructables already for custom arcade machines - I've kept track of my favourites here - but none of them covered exactly what I was after. After taking in a lot of inspiration I decided the main criteria for my design would be:
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For the screen cut out, we carefully measured the screen and cut a hole in the panel using the jigsaw. The screen was then laid in place and chunky bits of wood were glued and screwed up against the edges to provide a tight fit. That's the prep work done - more detail on the monitor mounting later.
For ATMEGA beginner user, installation of USB-ASP in Windows 10 can be tiresome. USBASP Device is inteded to work with 32 bits yet our current PC Windows 10 is mostly 64 bit. So extra steps are needed for a particular USB port. If you have installed USBASP on one of the a physical ports, you need to remember which port that you have installed with. If you plug USBASP on another physical port you will need to do reconfigure windows to use the driver again from the start.
Now, return to the original website from which you downloaded your image and highlight the URL (the website address located in the browser's address bar).
NoteTab Light will copy the address and automatically paste it into the blank document. You might hear a beep that indicates a successful copy/paste. While in Pasteboard Mode, NoteTab Light will automatically paste all text that you copy, no matter the source or length! You do not need to toggle back and forth from the browser to the text editor...everything that you hightlight and copy will automatically be pasted to the blank document.
So, look for the following bits of information, highlight, copy and paste to your blank document:
- Website address
- Name of creator/author/owner
- Link to license or terms of use webpage
For the image that I just downloaded I found the following information that I will allow me to properly credit the author/creator/owner:
- _art/animal_and_wildlife/breaking_free.html
- Guy David
-
NoteTab Light automatically inserted a blank line after each copy/paste, making it easy for me to keep track of who I need to credit.
At the end of my article I'll insert a credit for each image I used, something like this:
Image of rhinocerous courtesy of Guy David,
License:
Edit:
Lets start by thanking everyone for helping me win the UP! contest. I won... can you believe it. Without your support this would not have been possible.
As promised I have released all of the source files. You can find them on my thingiverse page. If someone wants the schematics and the firmware, I can upload them, but the program is really simple. It measures the potmeters, remaps the values to servo angles and transmits those angles to the servo's.
Now for the sad part. I have completed this project. I will no longer be working on this project. This is where you guys come in. My electronics and programming skills are limited. I have heard you guys talk of some amazing ideas, and I really want to see some of them working. So go modify the parts to your needs, print and make this GlaDOS even more awesome than it already is. Amaze me.
Dragonator out.
end of edit
After all of the interest, I have devoted a page of my instructable for personal updates, comments and answers for some questions.
First things first, Where you can and can't expect me. I am not on reddit, tumblr, twitter, google plus or any other social media. Places where you will find me is here (instructables), thingiverse (also as dragonator) and on youtube (as ytecinventions). Right now, I will not use any other medium to publish or comment on.
Expect some parts to be slightly modified. I am continuing to find small problems is some parts (mainly the base). I have already replaced the base drive train (mostly gears) over four times before I got to a solution that could handle the raw strength.
For everyone that is speculating whatever is wrong with the electronics. I already knew what the problem was way before I posted this. I tried containing everything in the base. There only was a 12V line in the base. I used a 7805 to create the 5V from the 12V. This part dissipates every volt that is above 5V, all the way up to 1A. I slightly underestimated the current that some servo's could draw. The 7805 is the part that heats up to dangerous temperatures in no time at all. For any of you concerned that there are some serious problems, there are not. I am already busy working with (not just on) the solution.
Those of you that wanted all of the electronics to fit in the base, I've got some good news and some bad news. Bad news, I'm postponing any attempts indefinitely. Good news is, I've got a much better solution. By placing the electronics outside of the base, I created a lot more room for them.
Thing I will and won't do:
- I will make this thing move;
- I will make this thing controllable by the controller that you have seen in the final thoughts;
- I might do a tracking system at some point, purely out of curiosity, but such things take tons of time, and I do not have any idea yet how to do it. The idea interests me, but doing it seems like a TON of work;
- I will NOT make her talk, The last thing I want her to do is make fat jokes.
Q & A
Why isn't there a video?
There is a video in the page above dummy, Go watch it right now.
Is there going to be a video if you do not win?
See the question above.
Is this thing for sale?
No it isn't. Also I can't be commissioned to make one, I am way too busy as it is. I might be persuaded to make and sell garage kits if I win, but for that I will need an UP! of my own.
Can I (and with that I mean you guys) post this on shapeways?
Yes. As long as you credit to the original source, you can. I was trying to convert these to a size that would be reasonable for shapeways, but I don't have the time for it.
Will you post the source files?
It's the end of the UP! contest and the closure of the lamps and lighting contest, so there is no reason to hold on to these files any longer. I have put them on my thingiverse page. Happy tinkering.
Why don't you just use a fan to cool the electronics?
Two reasons, One: There simply isn't enough room in the base. Two: Electronics heating up that dramatically is usually a sign of things being wrong.
(PS. to everyone that showed me that glados look like a bound, upside down woman... Thanks for that image, I now have a bound woman on my ceiling. Just great)
Hi there, I am about to start printing your lamp the coming week and was going over the BOM. I have some questions...
1) the helical gears you mention: 2M 10T and 17T - I don't understand if I have to purchase them or I have to print them (as they are mentioned in the "print" section, but I see no corresponding STL files for them. I found 2 16T driver and driven STLs which seem the same). Could you please clarify?
2) which sandpaper grit would work best?
If I manage to assemble it all .... I'll use it to also hod some bits of my custom home automation system. Just as GLaDOS would.
Many thanks!
To program the bootloader and provide to the microcontroller the compatibility with the Arduino Software (IDE) you need to use an In-circuit Serial Programmer (ISP) that is the device that connects to a specific set of pins of the microcontroller to perform the programming of the whole flash memory of the microcontroller, bootloader included.The ISP programming procedure also includes the writing of fuses: a special set of bits that define how the microcontroller works under specific circumstances.
1) Confirm hardware connections such as serial devices and check that your gateway and energy meter is properly connected. Ensure that the power and data cables are connected correctly and that there are no loose connections.
2) the Serial terminal device received data and did not answer properly? Then you need to listen to the serial device data judgment, find a 485 to USB serial cable and received a 485 device interface to the computer USB, computer mapping a com port number, open the serial debugging assistant software - set the serial port parameters to maintain consistency, enter the corresponding com port - listen to the 485 device data to see. 485 wiring: T + - A T - - B; - see 485 this side is received by the next command is correct; correct command sent, 485 whether the normal answer?
3) Confirm the baud rate, data bits, stop bits, and other serial parameters configuration: baud rate should be configured according to the access RS485 device, commonly used is 9600 and 115200; specifically check the device manual or contact RS485 device technical support to confirm; if set to Modbus mode, please confirm whether the function code matches.
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