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Or maybe it's re-rope sash, or restring windows, or re-weight with sash cord? No matter, sit back, buckle in, and get ready for a riveting blog post about restoring antique windows! I doesn't get much more exciting. (I'm lying, it can only get more exciting.)

Antique double hung windows are beautiful, there's no doubt about it. I didn't realize this for many years, but after buying our home and falling in love with old homes, the old sash are one of the four truly enchanting elements of architecture I feel set an older home apart from the pack (the other three are their staircases, period doors & door hardware, and moulding/millwork). When I'm drooling over a magazine house, a real estate listing that I can't afford, or a falling down house with "good bones" I just wish I could spend another decade saving, these are some of the primary aspects I immediately look for. And if any of these homes are lacking any or all of these details...they're dead to me.

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While I'm an equal opportunity lover of old windows, the majority of my restoration efforts are geared toward the style of windows in our home -- rope and pulley double hung sash. This is primarily because they're the ones with which I'm most familiar and comfortable.

Our style of windows are actually very common in the era of our 1880s home, and in about 50 years in either direction. The style is fairly straight forward and contains two sash, an upper and lower, which are movable and counter balanced by large weights that live in cavities beyond the jambs of the window frame. When the sash are raised or lowered, the sash weights, attached to the sash by cording, travel up and down in the hollow channels, allowing the windows to stay open without any other props or stays. It's a very functional system that works quite well. However, one of the common plights of the rope and pulley double hung sash comes by way of frayed and broken ropes (or sash cord).

I actually have a bag of sash chain in our basement as I had planned on using it in the first window I needed to restore, but I ran into a snag. No, not a snag in the project, and aesthetics snag. I saw the chains installed in another home's windows.

I don't know why, but the chains just don't do it for me. When I saw them they looked wrong for our house, and when I opened the window and heard the metal on metal clank of the chain rolling over the pulley, that killed it for me. I thought to myself, "I know the original cord in our windows is, well, original, so why replace it with a different material? It had already lasted nearly 125 years."

First I found the standard braided laundry line you can buy at most big box home improvement stores. The cord is all white with a nylon/cotton core and is the right size for the sash cord. I thought I had found the perfect replacement, so I went ahead and bought 100' of it and replaced the rope in our bedroom windows.

I was feeling good about my accomplishment, but there was always this little voice in the back of my head saying "that rope wasn't perfect, it didn't look identical to the old stuff. The old stuff had little red dots in it."

I shut that little voice out of my head until one day, when I was looking around online, and came across SRS Hardware, a company dedicated to the historic preservation and recreation of true divided light windows and wood storms. They have a great collection of necessities for people restoring windows, including the elusive Sarco glazing. In their list of products they had EXACTLY what I was looking for...and I mean exact!

They carry a type of sash cord that is made by the same manufacturer of sash cord that was used on our original windows. Same small company, same design, same little red dot. It was a moment of pure, unadulterated excitement when I discovered this source.

It's important to remember that the correct function of the sash actually determines the length, and the length of the weight and where the rope attaches to the window plays a role. The rope needs to be long enough to allow the sash to be fully lowered without the weight or knot running into the pulley, and short enough to allow the windows to be fully raised without having the weight hit bottom. You also need to account for the necessary knots you'll need to tie at either ends. This is why I like to figure out length as I go, rather than trying to come up with a formula.

The next step in proper measurement is critical and will make or break your restring. With the weight back in the pocket, grab the upper sash and make pencil mark of where the top of the hole for the rope knot sits on the side of the sash.

Remove the sash from the window and place the sash back where you were storing it. Then grab the sash cord and pull down until the sash weight lifts up about one inch from the bottom of the weight cavity floor. Full tension from the weight should be on the rope and you should be able to move it freely.

With the weight one inch off the base, use your pencil to mark the rope with two small marks. The first mark is at the line you made on the jamb for the sash knot hole and the second is at the based of the pulley, right where the rope would begin to wrap around the pulley wheel.

The original rope installed in our windows was tacked in place by several nails through the sash's rope channel. While this was effective, I want to be able to easily remove the sash in the future when I restore them.

The first change is in how you run the sash cord. Since the pulley doesn't need to be installed for weather stripping, you can leave it out until after you've run the cord, making the whole process of getting your cord in place much simpler. This time, just put the cord through your sash pulley while it's out, then tape a drill bit to the end of the rope and feed it through the opening.

Like with the upper sash, it's time to tie on the weights. In our windows the weights for the upper sash are larger and heavier than the lower. It makes sense, since their job is to keep the sash up rather than to simply counter balance as it's raised. So it's important to take note to ensure you're installing the correct weight for the correct sash.

Once I had the sash weight good and secure, I started working on the length of the cord I'd need. Similar to the upper sash, the key here is to get the length of the rope right, but using an opposing approach. With the lower sash you need to be sure that the window can be fully raised without the weight impacting the bottom of the cavity, but it needs to be able to be closed without the knot or weight running into the pulley.

It's important to note that I skipped the step of reinstalling the window's parting bead and sash stops as I intend to take the sash out again to strip and reglaze them. I'll tell you one thing for sure, those parting beads sure do offer a tremendous amount of draft reduction. Our windows are super drafty without them.

There you have it, a full (and frightfully boring) step by step guide on replacing your weight and pulley double hung window's sash cords. I was once rather intimidated by this whole project, but now that I've done it on several windows, it's a completely bearable project that I'm excited to undertake on the remaining original windows of our home.

Yeah! This is the part that I most need. My dining room windows have been 'weightless' for several years now. This is 'on the list' for spring. I don't think I'll work on them this weekend as we are supposed to be getting 4 inches of snow here!

Thanks, Christine! I didn't think of using the sash chain to pull the rope through. I've got the whole bag of it unused. I've got another project where I need to fish some wire in the wall and that may be the perfect solution!

man, i wish you had been blogging this about 8 years ago when hubby and I were fixing up a 1932 colonial revival. (we've since relocated to another state and live in a house built in 1969.) we left the old windows in much better shape than we found them, but there was a lot of trial and error involved and i know for a fact we didn't use the proper sash cord.

Great tutorial! I've been debating replace vs. restore our double hung windows for years, but after reading your blog have decided to go with 'restore.' Thanks for the link to Smith Restoration Sash - is it sad that I was excited to look at everything available?

On our Victorian we replaced the "colonial" multi-paned, clearly-not-original windows on the front of the house with 2-over-2 windows, which we speculated were the original style based on other houses in the neighborhood. We retained the old-but-probably-not-original 6-over-6 windows on the rear.

6/6 windows on the rear is a common original configuration. The bigger the price of glass, the more expensive it was. Victorian 2/2 windows were "show-off how rich and sophisticated I am" windows. Cheaper 6/6 windows with smaller glass panes were put on the back of rowhouses where no one could see them. It's really no different from today when a new McMansion puts a brick facade on the front, but vinyl on all the other sides.

Good touch with the sash cord in keeping with the period of your house. The earliest windows I've seen original chains on were about 1905, though cord was still the most common means of stringing a sash through about 1920 or so. Our windows have original chains that unfortunately are caked in paint. I've got a spool of chain in the basement for when I get around to working on our windows, but I'm going to have to use a darkening solution on it so it will look right with everything else. The "mirror brass" finish that became popular 40 or so years ago does absolutely nothing for me.

"I've only almost fallen out of the window once" is one of the funnier sentences I've read in a blog Our house is mid-1960s, so I won't ever have to restring the windows, but we replaced the busted cord in our patio umbrella last summer, and that was enough. Strong words were spoken, bonds of matrimony tested, but it got done. I salute your patience in doing a similar task in many windows! ff782bc1db