Advertising plays a key role in shaping social perceptions of gender, often reflecting and reinforcing traditional norms and stereotypes.
This research examines how fashion brands Calvin Klein and American Apparel have portrayed men and women over the past three decades (1990-2020). Through strategic objective J2 of the Beijing Platform for Action, the study seeks to understand the progress made since 1995 and identify areas for improvement.
Advertising has long been a mirror of societal norms, but it also has the power to mould public perceptions.
Calvin Klein and American Apparel have often used provocative imagery to define their brand identity, but their campaigns frequently reinforce stereotypes tied to masculinity and femininity.
This study examines whether such strategies have evolved to align with calls for greater inclusivity and fairness in representation.
In recent years, there has been a growing need for a more balanced and non-stereotypical representation of gender in advertising, which has led to the emergence of gender equality movements, such as those inspired by the Beijing Platform for Action (1995).
The BPfA is a pivotal document that sets out a comprehensive programme of rules and commitments to promote and support the full development of women's rights.
In 2025, the BPfA+30 will take place and this will be an occasion to discuss the achievements in gender equality following the integration of the Platform.
This project fits into this context, with the aim of taking a critical look at what has been achieved so far.
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Why Calvin Klein and American Apparel?
The two fashion and underwear brands Calvin Klein and American Apparel have been selected for their bold and often controversial advertising strategies. While they claim to "make a difference" in the fashion world - as can easily be seen on their websites - their advertising campaigns provide fertile ground for examining how gender stereotypes are entrenched in high-profile marketing.
This research therefore asks whether objectification and sexualisation are necessary for brand identity, and how these practices should be replaced by more inclusive approaches that celebrate diversity.
Given the significant influence of advertising on the formation of gender perceptions, this research was created to visually examine the representation of women and men in 12 advertising campaigns published by the two brands over three decades (1990-2020), highlighting the disparities in the way men and women are represented, from body representation to roles and aesthetics.
By identifying patterns of discrimination, sexualisation and prejudice, the study sheds light on how advertising perpetuates inequalities and explores whether there are examples of neutral and inclusive representation.
The choice to focus on a 30-year period is justified by the authors' desire to assess whether adopting the Beijing Platform for Action in 1995 has led to an evolution in how male and female genders are represented in advertising today. Our work will indeed be guided by the strategic objective J2 of the Beijing Platform for Action:
«Promote a balanced and non-stereotypical representation of women in the media» (BPfA, 1995).
This research aims to propose a set of good practices and examples to promote a critical and responsible approach to the analysis and observation of marketing campaigns that involve the representation of men's and women's bodies, to encourage a more conscious and gender-sensitive approach.
The authors of this article hope to raise awareness among their peers and to train future communicators in a more body-sensitive visual and linguistic approach to promote a more inclusive and neutral future market and mediascape.
By addressing the question:
"Did the introduction of the Beijing Platform for Action’s Strategic Objective J2 in 1995 really lead to a concrete change in gender representation in the media landscape? And, if not, what can be otherwise improved?"
This research advocates for a future where advertising not only mirrors societal diversity but also shapes it in positive, equitable ways.