This version is based on Baroness Genoveva von Lübeck's instructions from a class she taught at Pennsic 42. Even though Meisterin Kolfinna has already received her tellerbarret (she chose prototype 1 for the style), I still wanted to make this one for myself. I plan to wear it at Atlantia KASF on 4 March 2023 where I am displaying some of my other hats.
From The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550 by Max Geisberg, this is the reference image that Baroness Genoveva included in her instructions as an example of gathered underside of brim.
Since this version does not have a separate crown and brim, I started with an 18" circle of craft paper and apple cutouts to pattern the top of the hat for cutting.
This is a preview of the top of the hat with two semicircles of silk sewn together to represent my arms with red and green apples.
Stab stitch around the edge of hat to connect the layers.
Stab stitching around each cutout to stabilize the shape and keep silk snug against wool in center.
This is a preview of the final form. The 7" wool strip is clipped to top of hat with peacock feather fringe in middle. First try was back stitch, but it wasn't catching the feathers. I whip stitched all the way around and realized the opening was in the front rather than back--seam ripper.
I used a whip stitch to connect the bottom and top fabric so that I could catch the feather band and millinery wire. Even with clips, it was awkward to try to hold all of this together and sew. The feathers were not my friend. The final result was that the feather band showed through in some places and I need to top stitch to cover the inner workings, but I will likely run out of time before KASF 2023.