What a difference a season can make. Italian designers put themselves back on the map with the fall collections that ended here Saturday. Though the runway shows did not culminate in a leading look for the season, they did introduce a compelling cast of characters -- the glam rocker at Gucci and Max Mara, the self-assured superwoman at Prada and Versace, the elegant minimalist at Jil Sander and the rich royal at Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli and others -- as designers reasserted their identities for a new generation of customers.
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