Camera Effect

I own a Cannon G7X MII. I shot some images and didn't realize that the Toy Camera effect was enabled till I downloaded the images and tried to view them on my laptop. Dam! I have noticed that as the images are being processed on my laptop for display that they initially for a brief moment display normally then process the Toy Camera Effect at the very end. It seems that this is an add on logarithm that is processed at the end. My question is, Is there a way to take out this effect from these images? Through any software? Or could I possibly upload these images back into G7X MII and modify the images in there? Any thoughts would be appreciated - Thank you!

Well, I downloaded the Digital Photo Professional and installed it on my computer. I have searched the program and the manual to try and determine how to remove the Toy Camera Effect but, I do not see what if any menus would do this. Any Ideas on what menus would allow for this correction? When I open the images up for editing there s no Toy Camera Effect. But when the image is saved, the effect comes back. Very perplexing.

Camera Effect

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If I am reading the conversation correctly, the OP has shot in both RAW and JPG? If so, the RAW image should be unaltered, as you pointed out such effects as toy camera should only impact JPGs. One can go into any RAW editor DPP for example, and after doing whatever PP, save as JPGs.

The 3D PIP effect is the way to go: Use two tracks (at least); keep V1 as it is (as you want it to be, however you cut it); on V2 (same cut as V1), apply the 3D PIP effect and keep the Foreground Level at 50 percent (it's at that level by design, if I remember correctly).

Basically, the effect will begin at the first keyframe, at the zero-point position (without an actual "effect"; this is just the starting point), move up to the value of 5 for the second keyframe, move down to the value of -5 for the third keyframe, move up to the value of 5 for the fourth keyframe, and return to its zero-point position (starting point). When you put the two (identical) clips together (the one with the 3D PIP effect over the other) and effect position changes (in such a way) to the top track, the effect can turn out very well. I usually keep to low values and, at certain keyframes, add a high value to one of the keyframes (usually, it's to a keyframe with a positive value), which gives a jolt to the uniform design of the effect (such as this, to a 20-frame "shake" effect, for example: 5, -5, 5, -5, 20, -5, 5, -5, 5, -5, 5, -5, 5, -5, 25, -5, 5, -5, 5, 0).

Also, the effect doesn't have to start at the zero-point (0 value) of the axis; it can exist for the duration of the clip. It's a matter of what you want to see. Just the same, you can experiment with values (-/+) and "jolt" points until you find a style that meets your taste or need.

Also, I wanted to add that you can create more of the "shake" by adding another clip (same as that of V1/V2) to a third track; just contrapose the values for each "effected" track, as such (this 10-frame example, which contains five keyframes/asterisks for the "effect"):

In the above examples (for my first and second posts), and in general (if the effect is to be contained within a small portion of a given clip, as opposed to the entire clip), the first and last keyframes should have a value of zero (0) for the beginning and end of the "effect," respectively; otherwise, if there are several frames before and after the "effect," the position changes are assumed for the beginning and end of the clip (because there is a fixed keyframe at the beginning and end of each plug-in/effect), as opposed to just the portion (frames) of the clip for which you want to manipulate the effect parameters. The point is that you have to specify a beginning and an end to your chosen "effect."

If you have AE you can also get a natural hand-held camera effect by motion tracking - a hand-held shot! Obviously, if you're only doing this once it's probably not really worth it. However, since you can cut and paste parameters in AE it's easy to apply the effect to multiple clips. You can also double it up to fill the length of any shot.

If you want to keep the effect for later use simply create a low-res QT file of the effect mapped onto a hi-con graphic. I use a black cross on a white 320x240 field. Next time you need it just track your low-res master and apply the tracker to the full-res image(s) you want "hand held".

It's funny. I thought that my approach would probably be howled down. Glad to know I'm not alone. And the motion blur is a good thought, Joe. I also do that in AE, and you're right, it is necessary if you want to make the effect appear more "natural".

Hi. I think it is normal on cameras 1 and 2 when downhills or at higher speeds but, yes (+1) it is a little bit annoying. And it is even worst on tight turns, as those descending Alpe du Zwift i.e.

I would ask a more cinematic camera behavior there.

PS: Your 2080 will be barely breaking a sweat on Neokyo. The frame rate drops are because lots of areas in Makuri (particularly Neokyo) are massively CPU bound. The 2-3fps dips happen everywhere though and anyone using a 60Hz display will see this odd visual effect as a result. Capping at 61fps does good job of reducing it.

Hello, i need to apply color correction effect to one camera of long multicam which is already done but cannot figure out how to do it. I have source sequences in folder "Processed clips" and i would like to open one of them in timeline and apply effect to it but it just does not open in timeline. I cannot find the way how to dig in it. Double click does not work, right click - open in timeline - does not open it in timeline, only in monitor window and effect cannot be applied on it this way.

Hi there. You can open your multi-cam source sequence by holding Ctrl/Cmd and double-clicking on it in either the Project panel or the Timeline panel. This will take you into the timeline of the multi-clip itself. Add your effects to the uncut source footage and it will be applied to all of the cuts to the desired camera back in your editing sequence.

Hi, I'm not really an artist or good with image manipulations, but I am learning how to create games on my own (using Unity3D currently) and have to create some basic art or animations myself when I can't find it available for free online, and I do that in paint.net.

Right now I'm working on an asteroids clone to further my learning and what I want to do is when the player ship spawns in the game, I want to have a little flash so that it doesn't look as if the ship just appears out of nowhere.

I figured that the closest thing to what I want looks like a camera flash and have been looking for this online but have yet found nothing. I've searched these forums, too, in both Plugins and the tutorials for creations and distortions/modifications but have also come up empty.

There was a plugin for a lens flare effect, but is not what I need, and one plugin that creates glitter/sparks, but that one seems to only work when you have a suitable image to work with, whereas I need something that creates this kind of flash by itself.

So TL;DR I'm looking either for some kind of tool to help me create a camera flash effect, or a tutorial that would explain how to do this and would appreciate it if somebody could point me in the right direction.

In this weeks episode of Creative Lightroom I take at one of my favourite ways to give my images a retro look in Lightroom. Now I could probably do another 10 videos on all the different styles of vintage style post processing you can do in Lightroom ranging from the very subtle to the over the top effects. This one falls towards the middle of that list.

For me there are a few essential things that make a vintage camera style image. First it need a cross processed colour scheme, in other words the colour need to be just the right side of wrong. Next it needs to lack contrast and finally a spot of vignetting is a nice touch. This technique has all that and more.

I am an art dealer and I photograph 24"x36" oil paintings daily. I have the camera setup on a tripod approx 7 feet from the subject with no zoom. With the equipment I'm using I cannot seem to avoid getting a slight fisheye effect. Basically what's happening is that two sides of the painting appear to warp outward. I have over 800 photos of artwork with this unintentional effect because no matter what I do I cannot seem to resolve this problem. Please help!