My Background
My name is Brenton Fields (Brent for short). I just graduated from Colorado State University with a Bachelors degree in Mechanical Engineering. Some of my passions include working on classic cars, and constructing/designing mechanical devices. Some hobbies include; camping, boating, hanging out with friends, driving, exploring new places, etc.
My Story
I have been interested in how things work since I was pretty young. When I was 14, I purchased my first car. It was a 1965 Mustang that was sitting in someone's yard for the last 10 years. It was a major project, but I really wanted a classic mustang, so I bought it with my life savings at the time. I trailered it home with the help of my dad and did a lot of research to figure out some basic car knowledge. Lots of starter fluid and carb cleaner later, I had a running and somewhat driving car. At this point I realized that the mustang needed a lot more work in order to have a reliable mode of transportation. I didn't have much money at this time and couldn't afford to have professionals rebuild/restore the car, so I decided I would do it myself. From here on out, I figured out how the car works and how to rebuild an entire drivetrain.
My decision to pursue a degree in mechanical engineering was mainly based on my previous experience with cars, and my desire to create and design new things. The hands on experience I have gained from the project cars I have worked on over the years gave me skills in problem solving.
This website was created in order to give you a summary of some of the projects that I am working on, or have completed. Some of these projects were assigned to me during my college career, and others were personal projects that I worked on in my free time.
My senior design project consisted of designing and testing a set of power transfer systems. The goal is to link an inline 4 diesel to an electrical motor on a tractor enabling the ability of a hybrid drivetrain system. John Deere tasked our team to design a scaled down version of the Diesel - Electric Motor system, then test three different power transfer systems (Belt, Chain, Gearset), and determine which transfer system proves to be the most logical based on efficiency and capabilities especially considering the conditions the system would encounter
Our team first did research on both the 4 cylinder diesel and the electric motor/generator (E-Drive) that John Deere want to use. Using that information, we then decided on a 3Hp electrical motor to replicate the diesel motor and a electric generator to act as the E-Drive in the system. We choose an electric motor because the efficiency is easier to calculate then that of a fuel burning engine.
Our group was tasked with designing a submarine that must sink, hit the ground, and then rise within a 4-foot water tank. The submarine must fit within required dimensions and perform alongside regulations. Each group competed in a competition to determine the efficiency, performance, durability and design of each device.
One of the biggest restrictions was that the submarine were to be activated by one movement (weather that be a button, switch, etc.) and that was all. The submarine was to start at the top, sink to the bottom, then automatically rise to the top. The tank the submarine was to be submerged into was approximately 4 feet tall, 1.5 feet in diameter, and constructed of PVC with windows for viewing.
Our group initially considered a propeller driven submarine using DC motors and an Arduino. The plans then shifted to a CO2 activator that would displace the water within a cylinder. This was once again using an Arduino. This design went into the construction phase and a prototype was created. Our group could not get the mechanics to function properly within the constraints of our submarine body, and therefore we started to consider using a design without electronics.
We eventually decided to go a completely different route and power our submarine using a chemical reaction. Alka-Seltzer was to be used to displace the water within the submarine body once it reached the bottom. The submarine would be activated by a manual valve that runs through the body (6) on the figure to the left. Initially the valve would be pushed and this would allow water to fill up the body and sink the device to the bottom. The valve would then be closed due to the impact of the submarine hitting the floor. At this point, the Alka-Seltzer would push the water in the body out of the bottom holes and then float back up to the top.
In the spring of 2021, I was taking a class called Mechatronics. In this class, we each had an individual project in which we each had to make a electronic device with an Arduino that had to meet specific requirements. I wanted to do something unique, so I decided that I was going to make a remote control car, but with my actual car.
I learned how to use the HC12 remote signal control and receiver, then created a series of controls on a board to use as a remote. In the car, I wired multiple sensors and actuators in order to operate the petals and controls within the car. The steering wheel was a little more complex, so I took a few short cuts here since I didn't have the time to build what I wanted to.
1957 Plymouth Belvedere
1965 Ford Mustang
1966 Ford Galaxie
1991 Subaru Loyale
The picture below is of the 1965 Ford Mustang as it sat for 10 years before I bought it. My original plan was to fix it up well enough to drive to school everyday. Eventually I decided that I wanted to restore the car too look like it rolled off of the showroom floor in 1965.
I first pulled the entire drivetrain and figured out how it all worked and how to rebuild the whole system. Then I took apart the entire body of the car and began prepping for body work
A lot of the body prep work involved using grinders, sanders, the welder, hammers, drills, wire wheels, and sandblasters (in order to achieve optimal surface adhesion when paint is applied). Unfortunately this is where I left off prior to going to school. Some work had been done since I started school but not much
The first thing I did once we got the car back to my parents house was get the engine to run. At the time I had no knowledge of cars so I mainly relied on my dads help to get it running. It ran ok at first, but then would start overheating and made a lot of drivetrain noise. This led to the later restoration of the car
Removing the engine took me about 2 days. I have taken this particular engine out so many times at this point that it would only take an hour and a half to remove it. The first time it was removed, a lot of bolts were rusty causing it to take more time
The engine has been "rebuilt" about 3 times. There was a lot of trial and error during this process. The engine was torn apart and labeled in order to ensure proper re-assembly. The block, head, and rotating assembly were taken to a machine shop to get bored (.60 over), honed, magnafluxed, line bored, new pistons connected to connecting rods, new cam bearings installed, new freeze plugs and surface decking of both the block and head
Once the machined engine came back from the machine shop, the rotating assembly was dry-assembled and checked for clearances using Plastigauge. Journals were measured using a caliper tool as well as bearings to ensure the correct thicknesses. The rotating assembly was then re-installed using lubricant, and everything was tightened to spec. The Short Block, Head and Oil pan were assembled and painted.
The engine bay was repainted and wiring tested for resistances before engine was lowered back into the engine bay. The valve cover and air cleaner were also painted. Carburetor was rebuilt prior to start up. At first I couldn't get the engine to start. Later a figured out that the ignition wire under the dash was fried. After replacing that, it fired right up and the camshaft break in procedure was followed.
The next step was rebuilding the automatic transmission. It had problems shifting gears and leaked a ton of transmission fluid prior to the rebuild. This process was much more tedious then the engine rebuild because there were a lot of small pieces. I used the help of the internet and a Chilton Manual to completely rebuild the unit.
A this point, the full drivetrain was re-installed and the car was drivable. I enjoyed driving the car for about 6 months until I decided to pull the entire car apart to repaint the body.
Holes in the floor were cut out, and a patch panel was cut to the same approximate size, then welded into place on the floor.
In order to access the underside of the car, a wooden rotisserie was constructed in a tip-jig fashion in order to flip the car over to allow access to the underside.