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Bluing can also be done in a furnace, for example for a sword or other item traditionally made by a blacksmith or specialist such as a weapon-smith. Blacksmith products to this day may occasionally be found made from blued steel by traditional craftsmen in cultures and segments of society who use that technology either by necessity or choice.[5]

Bluing is most commonly used by gun manufacturers, gunsmiths, and gun owners to improve the cosmetic appearance of and provide a measure of corrosion resistance to their firearms. It is also used by machinists, to protect and beautify tools made for their own use. Bluing also helps to maintain the metal finish by resisting superficial scratching, and also helps to reduce glare to the eyes of the shooter when looking down the barrel of the gun. All blued parts still require oiling to prevent rust. Bluing, being a chemical conversion coating, is not as robust against wear and corrosion resistance as plated coatings, and is typically no thicker than 2.5 micrometres (0.0001 inches). For this reason, it is considered not to add any appreciable thickness to precisely-machined parts. Friction, as from holster wear, quickly removes cold bluing, and also removes hot bluing, rust, or fume bluing over long periods of use. It is usually inadvisable to use cold bluing as a touch-up where friction is present. If cold bluing is the only practical option, the area should be kept oiled to extend the life of the coating as much as possible.

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New guns are typically available in blued finish options offered as the least-expensive finish, and this finish is also the least effective at providing rust resistance, relative to other finishes such as Parkerizing or hard chrome plating or nitriding processes like Tenifer.

Historically, razor blades were often blued steel. A non-linear resistance property of the blued steel of razor blades, foreshadowing the same property later discovered in semiconductor diode junctions, along with the ready availability of blued steel razor blades, led to the use of razor blades as a detector in crystal set AM radios that were built by servicemen (as foxhole radios) or by prisoners of war during World War II.[10]

Bluing only works on ferrous materials such as steel, cast iron, or stainless steel, for protecting against corrosion because it changes iron into Fe3O4. As aluminium and polymers do not rust, they cannot be blued, and no corrosion protection is provided. However, the chemicals from the bluing process can cause uneven staining on aluminium and polymer parts. Hot bluing should never be attempted on aluminium, as it reacts it usually dissolves in the caustic salt bath.

I learned from a medieval swords video that steel can be heated to a level where it takes on a blue tint, and is thus called "blued steel". I would love to know if this would be manageable for use with frets. I don't know if the "blue" would rub off after a while from string abuse, or if blued steel would be as sturdy or workable as stainless steel. I'd love to hear some thoughts about it.

There are several other bayonets, some on eBay and some on othere militaria sites that look like they may be blued but it is hard to tell and most times I don't get definitive answers from the sellers.

I have one M1905 dated 1920 that is definately parkerized and seems to have an area just in front of the guard where the finish is slightly lighter in color than the rest of the blade. I am assuming that a blued blade would not have this?

Because of the different lighting conditions, and poor tehnique encountered in photographs, it is nearly impossible to determine whether or not a blade is blued or parkerized. As for your 1920 dated M1905, the reason for the color difference you described is that almost all of the 1905 bayonets still in service were re-parkerized. Many people will tell you this was done in preparation for WWII, but this was done in many cases long before the war. The blades were literally dipped into the chemical tanks up to the ricasso, which left its original finish just ahead of the cross guard untouched, thus the two tone appearance. So, when you look at a 1905 bayonet, check that area just ahead of the cross guard. In an excellent photograph, you will be able to see if the blade has been redone or not. A good original blade will have a clearly uniform finish from the cross guard to the end of the blade. I learned from Gary Cunningham's book that 1905 bayonets dated before 1917 will have a bright blade, so if you see a parkerized blade within those dates, then it has been refinished. Now, just to make sure we are still confused, I also learned than some of the early bayonets were blued. In that case, I suppose a great photograph of a mint specimen will show an obviously shiny blued blade, but if the bayonet is even somewhat worn, then it might be very difficult to tell if it is blued or re-parked. Thanks for your time. As always, if I have any of the facts wrong, someone please chime in to correct me. I love learning new stuff in this bazaar hobby in which I find myself.

I would imagine that since the blades were 'bright' prior to WWI and the bluing process was an inter-war technique, that any legitimate blued blade would be significantly shinier than a corresponding parkerized blade?

3. MOST of the blued 1917 and 1918 Model 1905s are a fairly dull blue, sometimes called War Finish Blue. The reason is that the final polishing step was discontinued, so the surface was not as smooth and bright as it would have been had it been fully polished prior to bluing.

4. During World War One some older bayonets were blued. This was not common, and most of those that were "reblued" were done in Europe by US ordnance personnel "using an Italian process". These do not have a high finish blue, rather a fairly dull looking finish. I personally feel that the process was some sort of chemical process that was not polished after finishing as the US blue of the period which was a type of rust bluing referred to in Ordnance literature as "Browning".

It is pretty hard to find a nice clean condition originally blued Model 1905 bayonet. These were used and abused for many years, often refinished, and then large numbers cut down to 10" blade in WW2. In the case of the pre-1917 dated versions, it would be difficult to be sure who blued it and when.

Since the 1917 was blued, then maybe it was stripped in the reprocessing and then refinished similarly to the 1919. That, of course would have to rule out the "scratch lines" reason for the two tone finish. Oh well, I'll leave that for some other time. Thanks again.

I wonder if may piggyback a question about a Model of 1905 I own? As you can see from the pictures it was mfgr'd at the Springfield Arsenal in 1907. I really don't know much about these except what I've gleaned over time, mostly from the 'net. I'm not sure how to provide better pictures than these, taken under good light without a flash. It certainly has been finished in some way and I'm not much of a blade guy but would estimate at least 75% of that finish is present. Now it appears to me to be blued as it does not look like what I think of as Parkerizing, like my Garand or '03-A3, so that's what I've assumed it was. However, after reading this interesting discussion, I'm starting to wonder if that's really the case? Any thoughts?

I've learned a lot from this thread as well. You have a nice bayonet there. Originally, the blade was left without any coloring, but the handle and cross guard was blued. This bluing extended onto the blade just enough to cover the date i.e. about 1/4 of an inch of the blade was blued. Your bayonet does not include this blueing on the blade. It looks to have been polished off. Not too big of a deal, it's still a nice example of an early 1905 bayonet. From your pictures, there does not appear to be any bluing on the blade. You mentioned 75% of finish remaining, not sure what you mean since it appears like a bright blade, not blued. Thanks for showing us.

Hear's a picture of my 1908 dated bayonet. The blade is unblued, the cross guard is worn, but the blued part over the date is what I was explaining earlier. If your bayonet is 70% then it would be much darker. I think your bayonet as well as mine was steel wooled and cleaned, then with age has turned a little gray. Maybe.

In my mind at least it's the perfect finish for one of my blades, but my only attempt so far was a miserable failure. After getting the mirror finish and wiping the blade down well with acetone then allowing it to dry I applied some cold bluing, but it didn't look good at all. I ended up having to go back to 600 grit and start the finish process again to remove the traces of bluing that remained. If any of you have a method that produces a good blued mirror finish I'm all ears (or eyes I guess).

I saw a pretty great mirrior blued finish on a blade but unfortunately i beleive it would have made the blade softer than is ideal. Tony Swaton did a version of the sword sting from the lord of the rings movie where one side was a mirror polish and the other side was blue like the sword would normally look. To achieve this he polished up the sword then put it into his heat treat oven until the entire blade achieved that blue colour then polished off one side back to normal. Not sure if that helps or not but you can google Man at Arms - Sting and watch the video for your self. Good Luck

I've achieved a good blued mirror finish with "slow" rust bluing. I use Mark Lee express blue but my understanding is that most of those instant plum browns followed by boiling will give you the same effect.

i'll take a stab at responding eh ! blued saddle tacks were first used by noah on constructing th ark. they come in various lengths and have been used in th saddle trade for eons esp in th english field where nail length is important because of tree wood thickness.blued metal has a corrosive effect on leather over a long time,any metal does unless stainless or coated.they seem to have been passed over in modern western saddle construction for glue n coated nails. various nail lengths can be overcome with a good set of nippers .ring shank nails hold in wood really good ,th better th wood th better th bite.make sure its where u want it cause gettin one oot can be a b''',a good head on a nail is a must also,i have used copper washers under nail heads before eh .i've been using a 11/4 length coverd nail zinc coated n cut shorter if need'd,hope that helps. 2351a5e196