I've tried finding where to connect the negative terminal on the Satsuma battery and I've looked at tutorials that mention unscrewing a screw at the back of the starter, but I've tried that (and yes I checked and it was unscrewed all the way) and still nothing. Anyone know how I should look at doing it?

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An earth battery is a pair of electrodes made of two dissimilar metals, such as iron and copper, which are buried in the soil or immersed in the sea. Earth batteries act as water-activated batteries. If the plates are sufficiently far apart, they can tap telluric currents .[citation needed] Earth batteries are sometimes referred to as telluric power sources and telluric generators.

Daniel Drawbaugh received U.S. Patent 211,322 for an Earth battery for electric clocks (with several improvements in the art of Earth batteries). Another early patent was obtained by Emil Jahr U.S. Patent 690,151 Method of utilizing electrical Earth currents). In 1875, James C. Bryan received U.S. Patent 160,152 for his Earth Battery. In 1885, George Dieckmann, received US patent U.S. Patent 329,724 for his Electric Earth battery. In 1898, Nathan Stubblefield[3] received U.S. Patent 600,457 for his electrolytic coil battery, which was a combination of an earth battery and a solenoid. (For more information see US patents 155209, 182802, 495582, 728381, 3278335, 3288648, 4153757 and 4457988.) The Earth battery, in general, generated power for early telegraph transmissions and formed part of a tuned circuit that amplified the signalling voltage over long distances.

The simplest earth batteries consist of conductive plates from different metals of the electropotential series, buried in the ground so that the soil acts as the electrolyte in a voltaic cell. As such, the device acts as a primary cell. When operated only as electrolytic devices, the devices were not continuously reliable, owing to drought condition. These devices were used by early experimenters as energy sources for telegraphy. However, in the process of installing long telegraph wires, engineers discovered that there were electrical potential differences between most pairs of telegraph stations, resulting from natural electrical currents (called telluric currents[4]) flowing through the ground. Some early experimenters did recognize that these currents were, in fact, partly responsible for extending the earth batteries' high outputs and long lifetimes. Later, experimenters would utilize these currents alone and, in these systems, the plates became polarized.

It had been long known that continuous electric currents flowed through the solid and liquid portions of the Earth,[5] and the collection of current from an electrically conductive medium in the absence of electrochemical changes (and in the absence of a thermoelectric junction) was established by Lord Kelvin.[6][7] Lord Kelvin's "sea battery" was not a chemical battery.[7] Lord Kelvin observed that such variables as placement of the electrodes in the magnetic field and the direction of the medium's flow affected the current output of his device. Such variables do not affect battery operation. When metal plates are immersed in a liquid medium, energy can be obtained and generated,[8] including (but not limited to) methods known via magneto-hydrodynamic generators. In the various experiments by Lord Kelvin, metal plates were symmetrically perpendicular to the direction of the medium's flow and were carefully placed with respect to a magnetic field, which differentially deflected electrons from the flowing stream. The electrodes can be asymmetrically oriented with respect to the source of energy, though.

To obtain the natural electricity, experimenters would thrust two metal plates into the ground at a certain distance from each other in the direction of a magnetic meridian, or astronomical meridian. The stronger currents flow from south to north. This phenomenon possesses a considerable uniformity of current strength and voltage. As the Earth currents flow from south to north, electrodes are positioned, beginning in the south and ending in the north, to increase the voltage at as large a distance as possible.[9] In many early implementations, the cost was prohibitive because of an over-reliance on extreme spacing between electrodes.

It has been found that all the common metals behave relatively similarly. The two spaced electrodes, having a load in an external circuit connected between them, are disposed in an electrical medium, and energy is imparted to the medium in such manner that "free electrons" in the medium are excited. The free electrons then flow into one electrode to a greater degree than in the other electrode, thereby causing electric current to flow in the external circuit through the load. The current flows from that plate whose position in the electropotential series is near the negative end (such as palladium). The current produced is highest when the two metals are most widely separated from each other in the electropotential series, and when the material nearer the positive end is to the north, while that at the negative end is towards the south. The plates, one copper and another iron or carbon, are connected above ground by means of a wire with as little resistance as possible. In such an arrangement, the electrodes are not appreciably chemically corroded, even when they are in earth saturated with water, and are connected together by a wire for a long time.[citation needed]

In some cases, a pair of plates with differing electrical properties, and with suitable protective coatings, were buried below the ground. A protective or other coating covered each entire plate. A copper plate could be coated with powdered coke, a processed carbonaceous material. To a zinc plate, a layer of felt could be applied. To use the natural electricity, earth batteries fed electromagnets, the load, that were part of a motor mechanism.[citation needed]

Previous owner seems to have screwed up the starter/Battery wiring. The - cable from the battery is grounded to the chassis but there is another place for it to ground but I can't see where. The cable has 2 lugs.

Z trainPosted August 31, 2010Z trainMember 726Map Location:

Tucson,Az.Share #2 Posted August 31, 2010 The - cable should ground on the block.Usually up front near the fuel pump.But i relocat them to as close to the starter as i can.And having the cable also grounde to the chassis is a good idea.

On my '71 240Z the cable has two leads, one heavy and one small. The small one connects to a threaded hole on the firewall near the battery. The heavy lead connects to the upper of the two starter mounting bolts.

When you connect to the firewall, try to sand down to bare metal and throw a little dielectric grease under the ring terminal when you bolt it on. Improves the connection and helps prevent future corrosion. Bad electrical ground can really drive you crazy trying to track down.

If you pefer a better looking Battery top, Run an 8 gauge wire from the same bolt as your ground wire mounting point, and connect the other end to the same point that your Engine harness is grounded. It's kinda like bolting your engine harness to the battery, but you get a cleaner look from the tranny bolt to the frame rail and along the harness to an existing ground bolt.

What most folks don't realize is that when you bolt your battery ground to the tranny, the engine is mounted to the frame with Rubber!!! The only real ground from the battery is the little wire from the battery clamp to the firewall, AND, that alternator ground to the engine harness and body at that one little point.

Just run a good 4 gauge ground wire from the Neg post on the battery to the top starter bolt. And make sure it has a good lead wire on it to be bolted to the firewall near the battery. THEN run another wire (8 gauge) from the top starter bolt (bolted to the tranny) over to the ground wires on the engine harness.

When I replaced my battery this summer I bought a dual post battery. I used one #4 AWG cable to connect the top post of the negative side to the engine block, and a second #4 AWG cable to connect the side post of the negative side to a ground bar that I mounted on the firewall.

OK guys, I think we are good to go. Followed your advice..mostly. Ran the existing 2 gauge cable to the top starter bolt and also ran a 4 gauge from the top starter bolt to the chassis where the cable was connected before. Then I ran a 10 gauge wire from the neg terminal across to the engine wiring harness ground. Now the wires are not heating up during starting.

This is most likely a noob question: For a AA battery powered device, is the negative end of one of the batteries always guaranteed to be ground? Will all the negative terminals of the batteries be wired together and be at the same potential?

Ground is just a reference voltage from which other voltages are measured. Normally, when we think of "ground" we think of "0 volts" - but that is not always the case. You could have ground be a positive voltage - say 5 volts. In this case, a 10 volt signal referenced to this "ground" would actually show you "5 volts" on your meter. A "zero volt" signal referenced to this ground would show "-5 volts", while "5 volts" referenced to this ground would show - can you guess...? ff782bc1db

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