For those of you who don't like weak audio or are fond of feeling the resonance in your body rather than just hearing the music through your ears, it is definitely important to be able to adjust the bass on your Windows device.

One of the easiest ways to adjust bass and almost all other advanced sound features like room correction and loudness equalization is via Windows Settings. Like the previous Windows versions, Microsoft has included a dedicated Sound section in Windows 11 Settings as well.


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This should increase the bass on your device. If you want to disable the Bass Management option in the future, you can either disable the Enhanced audio feature directly or uncheck the Bass Boost option by following the steps we have mentioned above.

If you use Windows Media Player to play your audio or video files, then you can adjust the bass settings on that app specifically. This method is ideal for those of you who use the Windows Media Player as your default audio/video player.

While Windows offers reasonable ways to adjust the bass on your device, you can try using third-party software if you want to make some advanced-level changes. Here are some of the most famous bass-adjusting third-party programs:

You may also want to consider getting a good subwoofer if your regular speakers aren't able to cope with the bass-heavy tracks. In case you are not a speaker kind of person and prefer wireless earphones with strong bass, check out our detailed review of The Tranya T10.

The methods mentioned above should help you adjust the bass on your Windows device within a few minutes. Here, it is also important to note that contrary to the popular belief, the bass does not damage your ear. The small-diaphragm in your ear properly responds to higher frequencies but since it is not large enough, the bass does not affect it.

If you'd like to use an equalizer, there are some third-party applications available for equalizing audio from any source on your computer or mobile device. However, Pandora does not officially support these apps.

The bass boost on Spotify increases the low-end frequencies of your track by using an in-built preset accessed via the Spotify equalizer settings. As mentioned above, you must scroll to EQ Settings > Bass Booster.

You can cycle through other presets on the list depending on the genre you are listening to and experiment with them, tweaking the tone to your taste. The same applies if the bass booster applies too much low end. Simply select the frequency and reduce it to taste.

I just signed up for a premium plan, using the desktop app Win 10, the bass is boosted significantly - how can I correct it - where is the EQ control? Even after turning the bass all the way down on my audio system it is still over-boosted.

It could be a defective unit, most likely isn't your motherboard and it doesn't nede an amp and dac per se. What headphones were your wearing prior to this? It could just be that you're used to something with bloated bass and you need time to adjust.

Yes, I only use external dac/amp. I mean, I have 6 headphones and swapping them on my desktop PC is just stupid and way too tedious and not to mention the desktop PC is far away too. Having the external sound literally aside my monitor is joy. But the HD560S sucks. Sorry but I can't lie about it and exactly as Vishera wrote, the HD560S lacks in bass.

This is concerning because even though the HD560S isn't bassy, it should still have a lot more bass than Plantronics' on-ear office headsets. For the measurement-oriented people in this thread, Plantronics' own measurements show their SupraPlus line as having a cutoff frequency around 200Hz. They use 28mm drivers. Even headphones with limited bass extension like KSC75s are bass monsters in comparison.

Yes I have tried all three of those. They definitely have more bass.


The higher the curve in any particular zone, the more of that frequency will be represented. Left is bass, right is treble. V-Moda LP2 has the most bass by a large margin, and only one minor treble peak over the neutral curve. Many people find Beyerdynamic sets to be sibilant, but with the bass increase some people quite like them.

The hd560s has plenty of good quality linear bass. My bet is that your motherboard is applying some crappy effects, like DTS shit. My b550m tuf plus does that and I had to manually disable all effects on the control panel.

I got the k361-bt just for something different, never had a wireless pair so I figured why not. They're certainly more towards the consumer side with the bass response but that could be due to closed back with leatherish pads. The only other closed back I have are the blue microphones lola and those are certainly consumer focused, so I have nothing to compare to. According to Zeos the bt is a slightly better version than the non bt. I'm going to do my version of a review of them soon but want some time on them. Thinking of comparing them to the shp9500 that I just got (I'm not impressed with them which is unfortunate because I've recommended them at every turn). I think the 361's biggest draw back is the narrow ear pads, fine for me but could be a non starter for many. I did order the k240 today too so I'll see how those compare to the other two. Gonna have to do it with onboard though cause most people spending $75-100 on headphones isn't spending $200 on a stack. Might have to get a fula or another $100 dac/amp to be fully informed. I'm finishing my basement this next month or longer and plan on having more than one desktop setup so it won't go to waste plus I enjoy giving audio products to friends and family.

Ok as someone who just recently went through a similar journey, let me give you some advice I learned from what I learned from audiophiles and audio professionals, because the sound topic is more full of clueless people than maybe any other computer/consumer tech field I have seen.


Everything I am about to write is based on my own experience and explanations I found by professionals.



TL;DR

Probably your mobo, test it on a Zen Dac 2, Shiit Fulla4 or even a Sound Blaster G6 or X4, and even an EQ if you want more bass, because flatness, clarity, soundstage and imaging are the most important attributes which you can't really adjust.


Why am I saying that? Because there is a major difference between "can power these headphones" and "will make these headphones sound good/as good as they can sound".

Especially with computers and gaming there are a lot of easy to drive headphones/sets and therefore weak headphone outputs.

Most people only mention the fact that the result is lower volume, but forget to mention, or don't even know, that another result is often poor sound quality, and by "poor" I mean poor for the headphones themselves while still better than cheapo ones.

There are a few rules of thumb and most DAC/amp companies don't even disclose all the specs one would need to follow these rules of thumb in deciding for a device, but the bottom line is that without a minimum of power, the headphones will work "just fine" as people like to say, which ranges from anything like almost max quality to "producing sound".

The more the power output is below what's IDEAL (not required) for your headphones, the more easily and more intensely you will get sound quality problems like compressed frequencies, compressed dynamic range, compressed sound stage (important for gaming), worse imaging (important for gaming) and even artifacts like clipping, distortion etc...

The reason it sounds boring, empty or otherwise lacking to you might be a combination of lack of sufficient power to bring out what the headphones have to offer, and/or your expectations/what you are used to, for example you might have come from very bass-heavy EQ settings and/or headphones/speakers which might make the HD 560S (which I own and know are a bit bass-weak) sound much weaker on the bass side than they actually are.



My whole journey started with getting headsets with 250 ohm impedance and a Sound Blaster GC7, rated for up to 300 impedance headphones.

Sounds fine, right? Except that what nobody will tell you is that the headphone impedance is only half of the picture, the other half is sensitivity (also known under different terms like pressure level..) which, when combined, creates minimum and optimal power output values for your headphone out, in which the GC7 was ridiculously lacking to the point that my headphones sounded fine most of the time, but a little boring and when certain stuff went off in games it sounded low quality, mushy and sometimes even distorted.

To drive my point home, I am not a bass-head but I enjoy a crunchy bass, and while my setup (HD 560S + Fostex HP-A4, which is a warmer DAC/amp to balance out the more treble-focused headphones) sometimes feels like certain music or sounds could use a little more bass, feeling a full and crunchy bass in music like this gives me the confidence that a lack of bass is often more caused by the creators of the sounds simply not putting much in, rather than entirely the headphones' doing:

I have an HP g7-1310 laptop that has srs Premium Sound w/ ALTEC Lansing. You would think that with all that fanfare there would be some way to equalize the sound. The only adjustment I've been able to find in the sound control/mixer is volume control. I need to boost treble and cut down bass due to hearing loss. Is there a way to add an equalizer to use in Windows 7? ff782bc1db

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