Jane Hamill grew up designing and sewing clothes for family members in her hometown of Chicago. She studied fashion in New York and Paris before opening her own boutique at age 25. Hamill is on the advisory board of Columbia College in Chicago. Courtesy of Jane Hamill  hide caption

For me, as a kid, Barbie was about cool clothes, a cool job, cool friends and cool accessories: the airplane, the apartment building and the camper. I learned to sew so I could make outfits for Barbie and her friends, who took turns being the airplane pilot, the doctor, the fashion designer. Barbie was never about Ken. He was always a little dusty and in the corner. My Barbie didn't enter beauty contests, get married or have children. She went to Paris and New York for fancy dinners and meetings.


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Years later, I became a fashion designer. I lived in Paris and New York and went to fashion shows and fancy dinners. It was all about the outfits and I began to wonder: am I just a grown-up Barbie? I am a strong, intelligent woman. My idols are supposed to be Georgia O'Keeffe or Gloria Steinem or Madeleine Albright. Am I in danger of becoming a puff piece like Barbie?

When I achieved my Barbie-style life, I wasn't so sure I wanted it. My husband is a prosecutor. He can change a person's life forever in just one day. I come home from work and say, I sold a great green dress today and you should have seen the shoes!

Today, I'm sort of the anti-fashion designer fashion designer. I don't particularly like shopping and if someone says fashion is silly, I'm the first to agree. It's just clothes. But if the sleeve is cut just right, it makes a difference. It makes a difference in how you present yourself. So many people have body issues. I hope I can help people like themselves more.

Clothes are personal. And they're part of your identity. A few weeks ago, I got a call from a customer. She told me now that she has my clothes to put on in the morning, she's never felt so confident in her life. They may just be clothes, but they help her to be who she wants to be and to believe in herself.

The blonde-haired, blue-eyed Malibu Barbie I loved looked nothing like my red-haired, freckled self. But that didn't stop me from thinking I was just like Barbie -- cool and independent and smart. It's only as an adult that I realize that my belief in Barbie is really a belief in my own imagination, in whoever I imagined I could be, and whatever I imagined I could do. I believe in imagining a life, and then trying to live it.

Hollywood's big night in Los Angeles included few fashion risks, with many sticking to classic silhouettes, black and other standard colors. Others offered an under-the-sea-vibe in soft seafoam colors with mermaid crystals and shell-like designs.

Emma Stone was in the sea camp in a soft pastel strapless look with a faint shell pattern in mint and a wide peplum at the waist. It was Louis Vuitton. Hailee Steinfeld in Elie Saab was also sea-like in sheer ethereal blue-green with wings attached at the wrist. Lupita Nyong'o was sea-adjacent in feathers and sequins by Armani Priv.

Moreno, at 92, waved to photographers as she showed off her pleated taffeta and velvet gown. Brittany Snow offered a refreshing show of color in a bright strapless custom Mnot dress paired with a statement choker.

Cynthia Erivo, in custom Louis Vuitton, shut down the carpet in emerald green lamb leather, dinosaur-like spikes along the back of a large-shouldered jacket. Emily Blunt and hubby John Krasinski matched in off-white, she in Schiaparelli couture with shoulders that floated above her body, that extended silhouette touch a mini-trend of the night.

Da'Vine Roy Randolph, on the top of her fashion game this awards season, wore an A-line pale blue tulle gown from Louis Vuitton with oversized sleeves embellished with tulle fringe. Ariana Grande also went big in a puffy pink gown that also had huge sleeves on a matching coat.

Lavender had a moment on a few. So did Billie Eilish in a Chanel schoolgirl look with a black jacket, pattern skirt, white socks and black Mary Janes. She and others on the carpet wore red pins supporting a cease-fire in Gaza.

Her custom Gucci gown was created in collaboration with Indigenous designer Joe Big Mountain of Ironhorse Quillwork. It featured a hand-wrapped porcupine quilled border in blue with a natural woven star design and sterling silver-plated bead edging.

There was a predictable spray of sequins for the women. White looks also represented, including Kirsten Dunst in Gucci. There was lots of black for the women, too, including a custom Schiaparelli for Hller with extended shoulders and the perfect fit.

Laverne Cox, working the carpet for E!, was the epitome of Old Hollywood glam in an hourglass look of black and low-plunging gold, her hair piled high as she fluttered a feather-light neck piece that trailed behind. Her look was vintage Mugler.

Scott George, a member of the Osage Nation and the first Indigenous person to receive an Oscar nomination for best original song, was among the early arrivals in a gray look trimmed in green and purple, his tie in matching colors.

Among the risk-takers? Charlotte Kemp Muhl, who walked with Sean Ono Lennon in a backless and near sideless black dress. Eugene Lee Wang, following in the footsteps of Billy Porter, donned a full ball skirt with a crop jacket. 152ee80cbc

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