After renaming and retexturing dozens of what was essentially the same model, I decided to make this tool for fast renaming and retexturing of models. It uses a simple graphical interface, and I tried to make it fairly intuitive.

The files I've used this for myself are the armor attahcment A_ MDB's, and the body part P_ MDB's. I'm confident that weapons and creature models will work fine as well, although I haven't tested them. Simper placeables should also work, but I can't guarantee placeables or complex/multipart placeables.

please post any comments or bug reports to this page.

v1.01

-When an mdb file's name was a different case than it's internal mesh name, the cloner would overlook the mesh. This has been fixed. It was a pretty show stopping bug, and a bad thing to overlook. Thanks to Cryic_The_Dark for so deftly pointing out this error!

v1.1

-The Cloner now supports heads. Thanks to Whatbrick and Morez for explaining the different setup for head MDBs!

-Can toggle alpha transparency

-COL2, COL3, and WALK meshes now are renamed correctly. This should allow the cloner to support placeables and tiles, although those types have not been extensively tested.

v1.11

-was skipping most head numbers. Should now work for all numbers.

v1.12

-no longer appends model's number onto the end of the fhair mesh

v1.13

-When copying an N_ head to a P_ head (or vise versa) eye meshes would retain the previous prefix, and thus not appear. Thanks again Whatbrick for catching this.

v1.14

-Wouldn't rename the race prefix of eye meshes if it were changed from one type to another. Thanks Kris C.

v1.15

-Another fix to eyes, wasn't working for creature heads or heads that didn't use one of the default 3 letter player or npc race prefixes

My first to-do list item is to use your Mother plant foliar spray we discussed in the article The Mother of All Clones. Since you will be cloning in the next 24 - 48 hours, we want your mother plants pest free and primed with natural auxins and cytokinins. As a reminder I currently alternate Garden Safe Neem Oil Extract Concentrate at 30 mL/gal OR Take Down at 40 mL/gal AND always include a Kelp extract. Currently I have been using 5 mL/gal Floralicious Plus at 5 mL/gal.

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We use oxidizers at HIGH DOSES to sterilize our cloners, but we can also use some oxidizers in LOW doses to surface sterilize aeroponic cloners AND clones or cuttings. The dosages are low enough to treat your water without hurting unrooted clones - so please pay attention!

Hormones

Auxins (rooting hormones) improve rooting time and the number of roots per cutting. But gels and powder wash off in your cloner before they can truly promote prolific root growth. Gels and powders are also time consuming to apply. I have found efficiency, improved results and decreased labor in using water soluble hormones. There are three product available that are reasonably priced and safe for water culture: Hormex Liquid Concentrate, KLN Cloning Solution, AND Rhizopon AA Water Soluble Salts. Whichever one you choose will allow you to add water soluble hormones to your cloner and eliminate the workload and dysfunction of gel or powder dips

In our final article of this series, Taking Cuttings & The PermaClone Recipe, I'll instruct you step-by-step on taking cuttings, adding your sterilizer the RIGHT way, and necessary nutrients. In the meantime, Foliar you mother and stock your sterilizer/oxidizer, hormone, and mineral nutrient in preparation.

A friend of mine that grows for a craft cannabis producer sent me a photo of the aeroponics cloner they use for commercial production. 10 days from cutting he had MASSIVE healthy roots with no rockwool. I had to recreate this at home.

Aeroponics is the process of growing plants in a mist environment. Often cited as the most efficient method of nutrient uptake by NASA experiments that researched growing high protein beans in space. Aeroponics is new to me as DWC has worked so well I have not had to look into atomizing the nutrient solution. If roots can sit in the nutrient solution 24/7 why bother with water pumps and misting nozzles. For mature plants I still believe aeroponics is not necessary. DWC is so much easier.

This method of cloning falls directly in line with my low maintenance philosophy. No need to mist a humidity dome. The foam cuffs are re-useable. There is no rockwool that serves as a home for algae and other pathogens.

Running the sub-pump on a timer also helps lower water temperatures. Any more than this and I find the sub-pump increases my water temperatures beyond what I consider an acceptable range. People on Reddit have mentioned they like to go up to 80F for cloning but that exponentially increases your risk of infection. I like to keep water temps under 72F.

The air pump will create positive pressure in the bucket which can create water leaks when the sub-pump kicks on. In a typical DWC reservoir, the hydroton will allow air to escape, so these exhausts are not necessary.

Sterilizing the pump, container and foam pucks is very important. Cloning creates an open wound on the plant, making it susceptible to infection. Luckily sterilization is very easy since the pump does all the work for you. Fill the bucket with 1 gallon of Star San solution (6mL of Star San/Gallon) and run the pump for 5 minutes. 

I have also scaled this method up without issue. When using tall 10+ gallon totes I have not have any issues with leaking. Just make sure to spray paint the lid black and then white to prevent light leaks, as in the DWC Reservoir tek.

If you can find a black bucket I strongly recommend it. Or at the very least get a black lid. Spray paint likes to chip off the plastic and will find its way into your water. Give your local aquarium supply store a call and see if the have any extra coral salt buckets.

As I was getting ready for work one morning I checked on the ladies to find my plywood grow box was flooded. The pump had slowly sprayed a substantial amount of water out of the tote. The cause of my problem was not having an air exhaust to vent out positive pressure in the cloner. I also now use buckets and deeper totes to reduce the risk of water leaking during the mist cycle.

Rockwool and humidity domes have always been synonymous with cloning plants. Although I have had success with using rockwool, there are a number of problems with it in DWC grows. Rockwool holds water, which can become stale and unoxygenated. Traditional humidity domes run at 100% humidity which is an invitation for mold and bacteria to develop. This mold/bacteria can spread quickly in DWC systems.

My first attempt at aeroponics involved the use of a $17 ultrasonic fogger. These are often used in cool mist humidifiers or reptile foggers. An oscillating ceramic plate atomizes water into particles that are 3-5 microns in size.

The cuttings were killed by the fogger in a matter of 24 hours. Because the mist is so fine it blankets the cuttings, not allowing air to get to them. I had the fogger on a cycle timer running for 3 minutes on and 15 minutes off. I could have tried to introduce air into the box but this would be too much hassle. In addition, I have read that people were having problems with the oscillating plate clogging up and having difficulty atomizing nutrient solutions which have ions 40-50 microns in size. For $17 it was a worthy experiment, but this fogger ended up going back to amazon. Save the ultrasonic misters for the DIY Humidifier build.

I did have a reddit user message me saying that he uses ultrasonic foggers without issue for cloning. His setup seemed similar to mine. If you have any experience using foggers shoot me a message on reddit.

There are a number of cloners available for purchase via amazon or your local hydroponics store. Be warned that some of them are DWC cloners, and not true Aeroponics cloners (e.g. Psycloner, Oxyclone). DO NOT BUY THESE. They are overpriced and I have found them to be rather ineffective. The stem sits in water making the chances of getting rot very high.

The infinite cloner can be turned on for specific shape or image to create endless amounts of clones. This is particularly useful for lessons or activities involving patterns, counting money, base ten blocks/frames, and so on.

Continue clicking and dragging the original shape or image to make multiple clones. The original shape or image stays in infinite cloner mode until you turn the infinite cloner off by clicking the infinity symbol in the top-right corner of the original shape or image and selecting Infinite Cloner.

Give the element a unique ID or name. An ID is given automatically and will be numerically ordered when more than one are added. If an ID is already used by another element, a warning symbol will appear next to the input field.

This makes it easier to precisely position elements, especially on the edges of the player. For example, to keep an element positioned on the bottom center of the player and a certain distance from the edge, set the anchor to center bottom and set the Y value to 20 pixels and X to 0.

Use this grid to determine how the element scales. The default is set to the center so the element will scale in or out from its center. If you anchor the scaling to the upper left corner, for example, the scaling will center from this point.

Use this parameter to adjust the angle of the element. It will use the Center grid (above) as its axis. For example, if the center is chosen, it will rotate around its center. If the bottom left corner is selected, the button will rotate around that corner.

Use this setting to set how the cloner will repeat. The setting will change depending on the chosen clone direction in the settings above. If the clone direction is Horizontal, then this setting will be Vertical, and vice versa. Enter a value for the number of columns (or rows). Or in case pixels or percentage is chosen, how much of the parent element should be used in that direction. 152ee80cbc

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