Anycubic I3 Mega Software Download

There should be a specific command that tells the printer to stop "right now" and for your printer I believe it should be M0. If the command is ignored then there is a problem in the firmware, I suppose if it does pause but then the command won't continue it would also be a firmware problem. I think you would need to get support from AnyCubic for this issue as I am sure Cura is adding the line to the gcode. It's just that the printer isn't enabled for it.

You don't need to print a whole file to check on what might work. You could make up a short gcode file just to see if you can pause and resume. If you start a text editor (like Windows Notepad) and enter this:

Download 🔥 https://fancli.com/2yGAXM 🔥

In the Pause at Height dialog, the bottom setting box is for "gcode after pause". If you put in "G4 S300" then the machine will dwell (a timed pause) for 5 minutes (300 seconds) and then restart by itself. Just make the number of seconds something you are comfortable being able to swap colors in. Practicing is good. A drawback is that you have to be standing there staring at it because it will just go back to work at the end of the time period. There is also no command to make the dwell shorter. If you make the dwell 25 minutes (G4 S1500) and it only takes you 1 minute to change filament, you are going to wait the other 24 minutes for the printer to restart. The maximum "disarm timeout" is 1800 seconds. If your G4 command is more than that then the steppers will lose their position before the print resumes. If you set the "gcode before pause" to M300 there will be a beep from the printer.

i had the same issue with my Anycubic i3 mega s and i found if you cycle the power switch off and on, then resume the print the same way that you would in the event of a power failure/outage then it will home the x, y, and z and continue with the print.. i know this answer is probably too late to save this this project but hope it helps in later projects. happy printing..

I don't know the AnyCubic machines, but on a Creality printer the stop switches are not very repeatable. If you successfully pause a print and then have to Auto-Home then the "new" 0,0,0 may not be exactly the same as the "old" 0,0,0. That is, when the print head hits the switches and stops, it doesn't stop in exactly the same position as the previous time. In the X and/or Y that will cause a layer shift. In the Z you might re-start and hit the print with the nozzle, or air print above the previous layer.

In the Gcode After pause box, if you enter the "dwell" command G4 S300 (where S is in seconds) then you will have 300 seconds (5 minutes) to change filament, insert a nut, whatever. At the end of the "dwell" the machine will restart on its own. Once the line is read by the printer there is no way to shorten the time and there is no way to make it longer. You will have X number of seconds to finish what you want to do, and then wait for the print to continue. That is not the same as a Pause command that you can restart at your leisure.

Changing monitoring state from "Offline" to "Detecting serial port"

Serial port list: []

Changing monitoring state from "Detecting serial port" to "Error: Failed to autodetect serial port, please set it manually."

Failed to autodetect serial port, please set it manually.

Changing monitoring state from "Offline" to "Detecting serial port"

Serial port list: []

Changing monitoring state from "Detecting serial port" to "Error: Failed to autodetect serial port, please set it manually."

Failed to autodetect serial port, please set it manually.

Changing monitoring state from "Offline" to "Detecting serial port"

Serial port list: []

Changing monitoring state from "Detecting serial port" to "Error: Failed to autodetect serial port, please set it manually."

Failed to autodetect serial port, please set it manually.

However we can also stop here... your printer isn't being detected as a serial device at all, so apparently it either isn't compatible with OctoPrint or something is broken here. Definitely not a software issues. I suggest you try to google around a bit if this printer even speaks serial.

@Bearded_Cobra: have you gotten some additional inforamtion this reg.?

I've looking for some info too, but I did not get till now a reasonable answer :-/

I'm having the same issue with my anycubic mega X

Thanks in advance

@gribarian @Bearded_Cobra_48 Might be old news but noticed the original poster had his baudrate at 115200 and im not sure if this is correct as i have to have mine at the 250000. i tried many times in pronterface to connect at the 115200 but with no luck and i just decided to try a different baud till i found one that actually worked (the problem with very little documentation on these printers) any ways im going to try and setup octoprint for my mega x, ill post back if it works, not sure if any of this is still relevant but someone may search down the road....

I have a new Anycubic Mega X (300X300X305) that I want to upgrade to print metal if possible. Any advice with regard as to what is needed and sources for acquiring what is needed please advise....all recommendations are welcome.

The best advice would be to invest in a professional commercial machine that will cost probably 100x what you bought your mega x for.

Even with some filaments like the BASF 316L, that MH sells, your machine doesn't exactly meet the heatbed requirements. Link to the MH page with said filament:

Ultrafuse 316LX

The cons to this machine is "stock and unmodified" the Bed only heats to 90 - you need it at 110