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My idea is to use esp32 only to read analog sensors (2 variable resistors), and then go to deep sleep, so power consumption will not be really high. I've been reading all the esp32 datasheet and it seems I could power it with 2 AA 1.5V batteries directly to the 3.3V pin, but I've been thinking if this will be enough, or I need a third battery, and use a LDO power regulator / step down converter. I've seen a recommended one (I think) its the LM1117 LDO regulator, but I'm not sure if it's the correct one, since to my knowledge the ESP32 can draw up to 500 mA at the start of wifi.

I've built an outdoor temperature sensor device using a D1 Mini WEMOS Board, a DHT22 Temp Sensor, and a battery holder with three Alkaline AA batteries. Everything works fine and I have the D1 Mini take a temp measurement and sent the value to my Hubitat Hub via an http POST call. Then, it goes to deep sleep for 15 mins and starts the cycle again.

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Have you measured the sleep current of the entire circuit, including what the sensor is drawing? If you're sleeping well in excess of 95% of the time, the most important determinant of battery life is the sleep current. My understanding is that the ESP8266 does not sleep very deeply. But you should measure the current and report back.

The problem with a switching regulator like a boost converter is that while it is more efficient than linear under significant load, it may well be less efficient under light load, such as sleep current. So using a buck or boost converter might end up being counterproductive.

Your statement here made me curious. I am using a boost converter to power my Wemos D1 project from an 18650 battery and when I measured the current drawn by the boost itself, the amp-meter showed 0mA. to be honest, I used the milli-amp setting on the multimeter but it didn't cross my mind to try the micro-amp

The boost I am using is this one: (someone measured the current draw in the comments and it says 100uA, which is very reasonable).

So, why do you say that boost/buck converters are not efficient under light load? Consumptions like 100uA aren't reasonable?

Anyway, depending on the project, the circuit itself will have a current draw which will likely be higher than that. In my case, the PCB itself draws 0.6mA, Wemos 0.2mA in deep-slee and I also have a DS1307 that draws 0.1mA in sleep. This means 0.9mA in deep-seep which is more than enough for the circuit to be alive for 4.5 months with a single 18650 rated at 3400mAh.

You can easily see that the biggest consumer is the circuit itself. I can try replacing some resistors with a higher ones for a lower consumption but I still need my circuit to be functional.

A wemos D1 mini in deep sleep consumes around 150~200uA. Much of this is the usb-serial chip, I suspect. The esp8266 itself uses only a few tens of uA in deep sleep. If your buck converter adds another 100uA to that, it's going to have a significant effect on battery life.

With my current setup the 3 AA Alkaline batteries will last about 6 weeks. I'd like them to last 4-6 months. My sketch takes a new temp reading every 15 mins and then puts the D1 Mini into deep sleep, so I could take a reading every 30 mins to reduce on-time power consumption.

I'd like to avoid using LiPo batteries and stick with the Alkalines because they are cheap and disposable. I just got a new multimeter in the mail yesterday, so I'm planning to take some current measurements with my D1 Mini in full-on mode, deep sleep, etc. I'll report back when I get those values.

robert_c, what I'm saying is that the big problem with linear regulators is that the voltage drop across them times the current is lost as heat, but a buck converter avoids most of that loss through the switching process. But at very low currents, the linear losses become very small as long as the regulator itself isn't consuming much current. But the buck converter still has to oscillate and do its magic even at very low currents, so their quiescent current is typically greater than an LDO's. So if a project is going to be spending most of its time sleeping, at very low current, you shouldn't assume that using a buck converter will improve battery life versus an LDO. Of course if you're boosting, you have to use a switching converter.

One thing about your DS1307. The datasheet says it runs on the coin cell at 500nA. I think you will find that it will run for years that way. So consider powering the RTC module's Vcc pin from a GPIO port, so you can turn it on only when you need to communicate with it, and let it keep time on the coin cell at all other times. That would save you about 99uA in sleep current.

Ran a sketch on the D1 Mini that powers it up with the WiFi turned on and temp sensor active, used a delay(10000) call to pause the sketch while I took current readings, then issued an ESP.deepSleep(0,WAKE_RF_DISABLED) call to put the D1 Mini into deep sleep mode.

2.9mA is a lot for a WemosD1 in deep-sleep mode. Wemos, itself, should consume around 0.15-0.2mA in deep-sleep. Can you post your electronic circuit here? Probably that you have some consumers (in general, resistors) on the circuit that are drawing that current. Or, just to make sure that your Wemos board is good, you can measure the current on the Wemos outside any other connected electronics.

The 24 micro amps for deep sleep seems much more promising. I'm actually using an ESP-01S which does not have red LED that is lit when the board is powered up. I'm going to give this a try and see how long two AA batteries will last.

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Thanks, I had a quick play with the voltage stuff and it appeared ok on REPL but then when I put some similar code into my program it was showing voltage level on USB and about 0.1V (clearly wrong for my 3 alkaline) on battery power. Probably my error.

5.Putting the ESP8266 into deepsleep

The simplest form of a DeepSleep program is to do the stuff you need to do (read yr sensors,make connections) and then call:

ESP.deepSleep(SLEEPTIME)

There is however more that we can do. remember that I said that on wake up the radio is on by default? Well we can give the ESP8266 a wake up instruction so it knows what to do when waking up. We can already tell the ESP8266 that it should NOT switch on the radio by default. We do this with:

The max deepsleep USED to be max 71 minutes. That was simply because the system_deep_sleep parameter was defined as an unsigned 32 bit integer. The max value of a 32bit unsigned integer is 0xFFFFFFFF, that is 71 min in usecs.

Since the 2.4.1 core, it is a 64 byte unsigned integer. That comes to 18446744073709551615 us or 5,124,095,576 hrs or about half a million year. Nobody wants to wait that long, so expressif seem to have capped that to about 3.5 hrs

This capped number is defined in the ESP.deepSleep(Max) parameter. So when I defined my deepsleep call as ESP.deepSleep(ESP.deepSleepMax(),WAKE_RF_DISABLED );, my ESP went to sleep for 3hrs and 9 min. I noticed though that this cycle tended to get shorter over time. Also if you define a specific period, e.g. 1 hour, with 3.6e9 (=3.6109) then you will find that that might not be exactly an hour. in my case it was about 58 min.

According to some older expressif documentation the status of the gpio pins is maintained in DeepSleep but can only drive 2uA. It is a bit unclear though in the updated version, saying the state of the pins on DeepSleep is no longer defined (table 1-1), though it seems to then contradict itself (page 5/9).

When I measured myself. I always found the same status of my pins during deepsleep, regardless whether they were HIGH or LOW before deepsleep. Status was as follows:

The ubiquitous DHT11 has an operating current: 0.3mA (measuring) and 60uA (standby), as 60uA is still rather high, cutting off the power would be better. In that case however the DHT11 needs a 1 sec warming up period. The HTU21D is a better choice with a 0.14uA sleep current.

Sergey, the DS18B20 part seems ok, but as i am not sure what you exactly want the program to do it is hard for me to check if it does everything you want. You seem to have removed all deepsleep info but still do a check on the rtc memory. Also you devoting a pin to feed the ds18b20 suggests you want the device to go to sleep, but you using print statements suggests it will remain attached to a cable 17dc91bb1f