The most basic workflow for the type of 3D-Printing you will use the most this quarter is a simple 3-step process:
CAD (3D Model)
Three ways to get a CAD model:
Design it yourself (what you're learning to do!)
3D-Scan an object
Download an existing Model
CAM (Slicer)
If you design your own parts in CAD, you will likely have to you export it into a usable, triangular "mesh" file format:
.3MF (recommended)
.STL
.OBJ
Once the model is in a usable format, you import it into a piece of CAM software called a "Slicer"
In the Slicer, you pick all your print material & settings (more on these later!)
Once all your settings are finalized, you export into a filetype readable by the 3D-Printer (ex: .gcode)
CNC (3D Printer)
Load the file into your 3D-printer & start the print!
Recommend you stay & watch at least the first two (2) layers be printed; typically the first layer looks a bit rough, but the 2nd layer usually smooths things out
If things don't smooth out by the 2nd layer, it may be a good idea to stop the print, reset the setup, & try printing again
Since PrusaSlicer is regularly updated (typically monthly or bi-monthly), the location & function of features may change, relocate, etc.
As a result, we highly recommend you subscribe to the Prusa 3D YouTube Channel
, which regularly posts updates, projects, new products, etc.
Oftentimes, the default settings in PrusaSlicer are good enough to go ahead and print, using a simple 3-step process:
Import your model (File → Import → Import STL/OBJ/AMF/3MF...)
Click "Slice Now" in the bottom-right corner
After the part is 'sliced', click "Export G-Code" in the bottom-right corner, to save your file (to a removable USB "flash drive")
Once loaded, the bottom-right corner of the screen will show you the total estimated cost, time, and amount of material associated with the print
Depending on the time, quality/performance, & cost considerations of your print, you may want to adjust settings to improve one or more of these outcomes:
The most common settings you will use are on the right side of the screen. From top to bottom:
"Print Settings"
Can be considered the "layer height" (height of an individual printed layer)
Several default options to choose from, that optimize for speed or quality/detail
Can also create custom print setting profiles to improve performance
"Filament"
Default options for various types of plastics (PLA, ABS, PETG, PC, ASA, etc.)
Can also create custom filament profiles that have more accurate cost/kg, bed/nozzle temperatures, feed rates, travel speeds, & other parameters
"Printer"
The make/model of 3D printer you are printing your file on
Very important to select the right printer, otherwise you can cause a crash or it will not be able to print at all
PrusaSlicer by default has many default printer profiles for many popular, commercially-available printers
Can also download or create custom printer profiles, if you are using a printer not included by default
Limited mainly to FDM and some SLA printers
"Supports"
If there are features on your part the have excessive overhang, it may be best to print them with support material
PrusaSlicer can generate support for your model automatically in a variety of ways, depending on the needs of the print
Can also "paint" on localized supports or model custom supports using CAD or PrusaSlicer
"Infill"
Rough percentage of how solid a print will be (15% infill = roughly 85% hollow)
Depending on your application, most prints do not need to be a solid object, and by printing with various infill patterns (think honeycomb/bird bones) you can save time, weight, & material without sacrificing performance - oftentimes even improving performance!
For the most part, printing is a simple, 7-Step process:
Turn Printer On / Verify Power is On
Load Filament / Verify Filament is Loaded
May have to "unload" filament first, if the currently-loaded filament is not the right material/color for your print
Recommended to do a "First-Layer Calibration" if you have loaded new filament, are unsure of the existing calibration, changed build plates, etc.
Clean Build Plate
Using ONLY 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) & a lint-free shop towel, clean the build plate (DO NOT TOUCH AFTER CLEANING!)
Load File Storage Device (USB "flash drive")
USB port on the right side of the printer, towards the back/bottom
Select File & Print!
Image should appear of your print on the build plate; verify the image & name look correct!
Turn the black scroll wheel on the control panel to move through the menus/file selection, & push the center of the wheel to select the highlighted option
Monitor & Wait
Recommend you stay & watch at least the first two (2) layers be printed; typically the first layer looks a bit rough, but the 2nd layer usually smooths things out
If things don't smooth out by the 2nd layer, it may be a good idea to stop the print, reset the setup, & try printing again
When selecting settings in PrusaSlicer, consider the timing of when the print will be finished, and/or when you should start the print, based on yours & others' schedules
Remove Finished Print & Reset Printer Setup
Pull the magnetic build plate off the print bed
Flex the build plate to loosen the print from the build plate
Pull the print off the build plate, along with any supports, brims, skirts, purge lines, etc.
Clean & return the build plate to the print bed for the next print/person!
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES:
Make a 3D-Print of your 6-sided die (dice), using PrusaSlicer
Before printing, think about how print orientation will affect details (such as the lettering of your name)
Once printed, add documentation to your previously-created "D6 Dice" Project page on your portfolio website, including:
Picture(s)/Gif(s) of your Dice being printed
Pictures(s)/Gif(s) of your 3D-Printed Dice
Descriptions/summaries of what you did/learned