The Need for Sustainable Apparel

The fashion industry’s impact on the planet is enormous. Apparel production accounts for 5-8% of all global greenhouse gas emissions, uses over half a trillion gallons of freshwater annually, and contributes heavily to water, soil, and air pollution. While much of the supply chain for apparel sold in the United States is outside of the country, the US is the largest per capita consumer of apparel by almost 40%. It is our responsibility to understand the impact of our consumption on worldwide environmental and labor conditions. 67% of American consumers consider the environmental impact necessary in their clothing purchases. However, clear information on sustainable practices is difficult to find, especially as many companies use “greenwashing” techniques for marketing purposes. Transparency is needed to help support American consumers’ desires to make environmentally sustainable purchasing decisions.

In addition to the environmental damage caused around the world in the name of American consumers, textile waste is an environmental problem right here at home. Americans dispose of or donate apparel and other textiles at a rate of several billion pounds per year, with less than half being resold or recycled. The rest is incinerated, sent to landfills, or transported to other countries, causing pollution, filling up landfills, and disrupting local economies. The same fate awaits unsold merchandise at stores, which leads to enormous waste, especially at fast fashion stores that receive new inventory every two weeks. As much as 99% of textile recycling occurs in downcycling, where materials are shredded for stuffing or insulation or used as industrial rags. Recycling is superior to incineration or landfill accumulation as it allows the fashion industry to achieve a circular economy. Development of the necessary technology has been underway for several years, with many promising technologies already being launched. Nevertheless, the limited market for recycled textiles has slowed investment in this infrastructure due to low potential profits.

In order to promote transparency and recycling, the United States must impose regulations or incentives. A reporting requirement could satisfy the former, in which companies must disclose all steps of their supply chain, including those they do not own or contract out. In addition to allowing for overdue measurement of the fashion industry’s environmental impact, this process would put social pressure on retailers to choose more ethical suppliers and contractors. Certifications incentivize companies to complete the reporting process and provide evidence that the company’s supply chain meets specific environmental and labor. As the public becomes more aware of greenwashing and more concerned about the sustainability of their purchases, these certifications serve as a trustworthy source of consumer information, improving marketability to conscious shoppers.

To reduce our waste problem, we cannot simply rely on consumer behavior. We must introduce incentives to make more clothing from recycled fibers. While there will be some cost associated with initial supply chain adjustments, creating a market for recycled fibers will increase the end-of-life value for unsold clothes. Incentives to reduce emissions can help spur innovation in technology. The textile recycling industry should follow this model and adopt similar practices. Several retailers have also already implemented donation programs for consumers to donate worn clothes back to the stores, which can be recycled into new clothes. Governmental subsidies can offset any increased costs that retailers would otherwise pass on to consumers. Furthermore, the rising popularity of the secondhand clothing market, which is experiencing reduced stigma, can mitigate environmental impacts of clothing by as much as 5-10% for just three additional months of reuse. Implementation of a more circular economy will reduce waste in the supply chain, thereby reducing costs.

Reducing the environmental impact of the fashion industry in a timely manner will require an approach that relies on market solutions as well as regulations. By implementing a transparent reporting requirement of the entire supply chain and an incentive to use recycled fibers, we can reduce textile waste and encourage a shift toward circular supply chains while empowering consumers to make ethical apparel choices.