3. Materialities of Short and Long-term History

The Twelve Symbols: Representing Identity and Hierarchy in China

Embroidered detail of an orange sun with a three-legged bird on a brown silk background

Sun

Embroidered detail of two grey and red dragons on a brown silk background

Dragons

Embroidered detail of two grey ritual cups with gold detailing on a brown silk background

Ritual Cups

Embroidered detail of a grey and white moon and rabbit on a brown silk background

Moon

Embroidered detail of a blue, red, and yellow pheasant bird on a brown silk background

Pheasant

Embroidered detail of red and orange flames on a brown silk background

Flames

Embroidered detail of three yellow stars on a brown silk background

Stars

Embroidered detail of a blue and grey axe head on a brown silk background

Axe

Embroidered detail of green and grey-blue seaweed on a brown silk background

Seaweed

Embroidered detail of grey and blue mountains on a brown silk background

Mountains

Embroidered detail of two grey fu symbols on a brown silk background

Fu

Embroidered detail of yellow grain on a brown silk background

Grain

Illustrated front view of a robe with locations of the sun, moon, stars, fu, axe, flames, and ritual cups embroidered symbols
Detailed images of “Embroidered Brown Silk Gauze Twelve Symbol Dragon Robe,” Qing 18th century
Mactaggart Art CollectionUniversity of Alberta MuseumsGift of Sandy and Cécile Mactaggart2005.5.625

Found on Chinese textiles for thousands of years until the early 20th century, the presence of the Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority demonstrated the emperor's divine right to rule. According to the Book of Documents (Shujing) (1), the Twelve Symbols were used to decorate costumes by reflecting nature.

The Twelve Symbols include: the sun with a three-legged bird, the moon with a rabbit, stars, mountains, dragons, pheasant, axe, fu symbols, cups, seaweed, flames, and grain.


The sun, moon, and stars reflect the emperor’s constant shining on his territory and people. The mountains reflect a stable nature, the dragons illustrate the marvellous character, the pheasant represents literary ability, the cups symbolize faithfulness and respect, the seaweed represents a clean mind, the flames symbolize brightness, the axe reveals strong resolve, the fu symbolizes a discerning mind, and the grain represents his ability to feed the people.


The placement of these Twelve Symbols on a garment varied according to the costume regulations implemented by authorities. In the Qing dynasty (16441911), only the emperor and his heir could wear the complete set of twelve symbols. The sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, pheasant, axe, and fu symbols were placed at the top of the robe; the cups, flames, seaweed, and grain decorate the lower area of the robe.


This roundel contains nine of the Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority and represent one of the last uses in the Republican period. The sun, moon, and constellation symbols are all missing, as the monarchy no longer existed in this period.


The Mactaggart Art Collection is one of 29 museum collections part of the University of Alberta Museums network located on the University of Alberta campus. The Mactaggart Art Collection contains approximately 1,000 East Asian paintings, textiles, and objects with a range primarily from the Song (9601279) through to the end of the Qing (16441911) dynasty.

Written by: Isabel Pifen Chueh

Curator, Mactaggart Art Collection, University of Alberta Museums

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“Apricot Yellow Silk Tapestry Weave Twelve Symbol Court Dragon Robe for an Heir Apparent,” Qing 19th-20th centuriesOrange silk and metal-wrapped thread tapestry weave
Mactaggart Art CollectionUniversity of Alberta MuseumsGift of Sandy and Cécile Mactaggart2005.5.13
See the reverse
"Embroidered Silk Roundel," 1912-1917,Silk floss; silk satin; embroidery
Mactaggart Art CollectionUniversity of Alberta MuseumsGift of Sandy and Cécile Mactaggart2005.5.362.1
Notes:
  • “Yushu, Yiji Pian” in Shujing [Book of Documents], compiled by Confucius (551479 BCE). The Twelve Symbols are mentioned in a conversation between Emperor Shun and Yu. The reign of Emperor Shun can be traced to the third millennium BCE.