Building

• 5 Rotary Encoders

• 2 Toggle Switches [Slide Switches | AMZ B07BMPVDMD]

• 1 Button [Reset Switches | RAP 78-3861]

• 1 Light Sensor [Mini LDR GL55228 | AMZ B08265C8NP]

• 4 4x4 Trellis boards

• 1 Arduino UNO R4 Wifi

• 47 cables

• 1 Strip board (Around 7cm by 5cm)

• 9 Resisters 470Hms

• Processed wood (around 50cm by 40cm)

Once the main design was complete (see the design section for more details). The focus was shifted to getting all the components to work and respond. Starting with each component by itself ensures that it first worked. The order that this was done for this project but could be changed were:

1. Light Senser

2. Button

3. Toggles

4. Rotary Encoders

5. Trellis board

Figure 1 shows an example of testing the Light Sensor on the breadboard, this was replicated for each part.

Once each part was working, the focus shifted to starting the code so I could see each part in the Arduino serial output. Once the code was at a suitable place I needed to check that all the pieces could work from the single 5V output of the Arduino. Figure 2 shows the full components connected to check that they all send the right values. This also allowed me to check the resistors to which some of the resistors I have chosen were too high and would allow the items to work correctly.

This also allowed me to start planning how many cables I needed as well as how to connect everything into the Arudino. This may seam trivial but each input pin of the Arduino is different and can have different functions. Ensuring that each pin can work optamial for this project was important.

Once I was happy with the hardware side, I needed to focus on making sure the Trellis board was working correctly with the code. There were lots of attempts to make sure that it updates more like conways game of life. One problem I faced was how the grid was updated. For the Game of Life the grid updates all at once however the first implementation would update each grid one at a time causing a 'rolling shutter' effect.

A slight change to update all lights really started to make the device feel complete.

Once I was happy with the hardware design it was moving into making it more permanent. I needed to have everything hardwired so the use of a strip board to solder everything down made the most sense. It was important to make the plan clear and straightforward. For this case I did a mock up of the strip board on XL to plan out what pins would go to which places.

Once the hardware was completed, the next step was about getting it together into the box. I first started out with a cardboard box (See figure 5) to get the dimensions I wanted. This allowed me to understand how it would all fit together. I wanted to emulate something hand held so needed to get it into a small size.

I started with a 26cm x 16cm x 6cm box which wasn't very hand held. For the main box I moved it to 24cm x 14cm x 4cm. Using jeromeleary.com/laser I was able to lazor cut the box, there were some tweeks needed in size and shape for the box such as a correction to the internal pannels and the hight of the USB cable in.

The next main problem was getting all of the electronics into the box. This required some extra soldering to change some of the cable lengths. I had orianly planned to use the cables the have speciffic pin heads so that it was more durable in being placed into the Arudino but they were adding to much hight that they whould not fit fully in the box. I wanted the hand held nature of the box more so I made the choice to cut the wires down to single cords to be placed in the pin holes.

This change worked really well and helped everything it in smoothly. Having preped everything out with the XL sheet also made it easy to remove some of the excess cables smoothly as I didn't have to figure out what cables where for what.

Once everything was put together, it was painted black to fit the typical electrical device. Overall it adds a polished finished look, which was commented on that it looked made for the device.

I had wanted the box to fit full togeather with screws so that you could take it appart for any fixes. I was able to get the screws in on the top pannel but while adding in the bottom screws they did not work correctly leading to the re-cutting of the bottom pannel. I unded up sticking with masking tape but painted black to hold the sides and base togeather. with works well as I can now fully get into the device if need but it holds its shape otherwise.