RED RIVER GORGE

Category: KentuckyElev: ~1,100 ftRock Type: Sandstone
Dates: May 2023(x4 days)Partners: Braden & Allie Downey
Trip Report #: 618

List of Climbs I've Done and 1 Photo Trip Report

Photo Trip Report for

May 2023

The Red River Gorge is one of the best rock climbing areas in the world, with super steep climbing on wildy featured sandstone. Its 3000+ routes range from perfect cracks to delicate faces to outrageous jug-hauls, 5.4 to 5.14. This place has it all.

The prime seasons for climbing at the Red are spring and fall. High humidity and temperatures make for less than ideal rock conditions in the summertime, but that doesn't stop some climbers. Winter is the slow season, but locals often take advantage of the occasional sunny and warm day during the otherwise cold and wet winter months.

So when my friends moved to Kentucky and invited me to visit in Spring 2023, I snatched the opportunity to fly out for the weekend to see see my friends and to check out the Red River Gorge. I had a blast and hope to repeat the trip again someday.

On this page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done in the Red River Gorge. Below the list, I've included a trip report for my only (so far) trip to the Red River Gorge.

Table of Contents for this page

List of Climbs I've Done in the Red River Gorge

Red River Gorge

1989-1991 Trips to the Red River Gorge

From 1987-1992, when I was 4-9 years old, my family lived in Cincinnati, Ohio while my dad worked on his PhD at Hebrew Union College. While we were there the Red River Gorge was a regular camping destination. Below are some photos I dug up out of the old family photo albums. Photo evidence indicates that my first ever climb may have been the Standard Route (4th) on Courthouse Rock in the Red River Gorge!

Steph, Marty (dad), and Jenny (sister) at Sky Brigde, Red River Gorge. April 1989.
Steph and Jenny at Gray's Arch, Red River Gorge. 1989.
Happy Campers, Koomer Ridge Campground. 1989.
Steph lost her first tooth here! 1989.
Lunchtime in The Needle's Eye, Natural Bridge State Park. 1989.
Typical hiking trail in "The Gorge". 1989.
Camping at Koomer Ridge Campground in the Red River Gorge. October 1989.
Camping at Koomer Ridge Campground in the Red River Gorge. October 1989.
Hiking in the Red River Gorge. 1989.
Enjoying a comfortable rest stop on a hike in the Red River Gorge. June 1990.
I had better climbing form when I was 7 than I do now! 1990.
On top of Couthouse Rock (with my mom and sister) in the Red River Gorge. 1990.
Steph perched on Courthouse Rock. 1990.
This may have been my first rock climb: The Standard Route (4th) to the top of Courthouse Rock in Red River Gorge. I was seven years old. 1990.
A fall hike in the Red River Gorge. 1990.
Steph and Jenny enjoying some hot chocolate at camp. 1990.
Natural Bridge State Park. March 1991.
Steph, Jenny (sister), and Sue (mom). Natural Bridge State Park. March 1991.
My sister and me climbing a tree in Natural Bridge State Park. March 1991.
My young parents (41 years old) at Natural Bridge State Park. March 1991.

1 Trip Report

Trip report for 1st climbing trip in the Red River Gorge.

Color coded by area:
The Old Zoo    Shady Grove     Long Wall     The Gallery

Trip Report #1 for the Red River Gorge: 1st (climbing) trip to the Red River Gorge: Visiting friends for the weekend

Dates: May 19-22, 2023 (Fri-Mon)   Partners: Allie and Braden Downey    Climbed at: The Old Zoo, Shady Grove, Long Wall, The Gallery

Intro

Towards the end of my years in Bellingham, WA from 2012 to 2019, I befriended Braden and Allie Downey. We were all a bit discontent with the wet Pacific Northwest weather and we had itchy feet for year-round rock climbing. Coincidentally, just few of months after I moved to Boulder, Colorado in June 2019, Braden and Allie moved to Bishop, California and then in 2022 to Beattyville, Kentucky. They had been making trips to the Red for years, loved the area, and had decided to make it home. They invited me to come visit and check out the climbing in the Red. I decided to take the bait. I was working remote so I could come for a week and not have to take off much work. So in May 2023 I booked my flights and visited Braden and Allie for a weekend.

Braden picked me up at the Cincinnati airport (about 2 hours drive from their place) on Thursday night. After day of work on Friday (I set up my office on the bed of their truck in their driveway and hot-spotted internet off of my phone) and an unexpected afternoon visit to the closest walk-in clinic after I was bitten by a mean Rottweiler on a run, we squeezed in a few after-work pitches of climbing at the nearby Old Zoo. On Saturday it rained all day, but we went to the overhanging Shady Grove area, climbing some of the steepest and juggiest rock I have ever climbed and proving that you can still climb in the rain at the Red. That evening we went out to dinner at the famous Miguel's Pizza. On Sunday, Braden and Allie showed me some of the trad the Red has to offer at Long Wall. On Monday, I again set up my remote office in their driveway and after a day of work (Allie and Braden on their new deck and me at my job) we squeezed in a few after-work pitches at The Gallery and capped the day off with dinner at Miguel's. On Tuesday, I flew back to Colorado (thanks Allie and Braden for waking up at 3am to take me to the airport!). 

The following page gives photos from my super fun first visit to the Red. I had such a fun time and Braden and Allie were great hosts. They gave me a great tour of what the Red has to offer. I have only just scratched the surface and I am already planning my next visit.

Climbs / Photos

Day 1: Dog bite, work in my outdoor office, and a Friday afternoon cragging session 


Date: May 19, 2023 (Fri)    Climbed at: The Old Zoo
Hanging out with Braden and Allie enjoying some coffee before a day of work (me: hotspotting a day of work on my computer; them: working on their new deck).
I enjoyed the opportunity to camp out for five nights.I slept incredibly well in a Hilleberg tent set up on a trailer bed. 
My power source. As long as I have power and internet I am happy.
The first morning I went on a run before Braden and Allie woke up. About 10 minutes from their place, I was chased by a pack of 6 Rottweilers, one of which bit me. The puncture wounds were pretty deep, but I feel I got off easy given I didn't loose a finger or an arm. I think I prefer people own guns rather than unpredictable mean dogs.
I cleaned and bandaged the bite wound. Allie (a nurse) recommended I go to a local clinc to get some oral antibiotics to avoid the possibility of a deep tissue infection.
Office #1.
Office #2.
Clinic visit. I decided $100 was worth the possibility of being shut down from climbing by future infection. (I opted out of an expensive rabies vaccine....I would take my chances on that one.) Thanks Allie for driving me an hour to the closest clinic.
After my clinic visit we met Braden at the trailhead for The Old Zoo for a late Friday afternoon cragging session.
Approaching The Old Zoo.
My first ever climb at the Red (I toproped): Geezers Go Sport (11b). 
Juggy steep climbing ahead. Super fun.
Jugs!
Allie leading Monkey in the Middle (11a).
Braden leading Lynx Jinx (11c).
Allie leading Lynx Jinx (11c).
Braden leading Zoology (12b). He stopped halfway up due to too many spiders on the route.

Day 2: Having a blast and getting humbled on some classic Red River Gorge steep and juggy climbing


Date: May 20, 2023 (Sat)    Climbed at: Shady Grove
Driving to Shady Grove.
Approach. In the Red where much of the rock is overhanging, rain doesn't prevent a good day of climbing!
Approach.
Shady Grove.
Allie leading Crucify Me (11c), Braden belaying.
Allie leading Girls Gone Wild...Woo! (10d), Braden belaying.
Allie snatching a nap on Far From God (12b). 
So fun to climb!
A salamander.
Red flowers at the base of the crag.
Muddy parking lot. It is hard to stay clean on a rainy day here.
Driving out after a great day of climbing. Ale-8 is a ginger- and citrus- flavored soft drink in Kentucky. I wish I could find this stuff in Colorado!
My cute cat Newt back in Colorado. This photo was taken by Nate, who was checking in on Newt daily. Thanks Nate! I'm having a blast in Kentucky but looking forward to hanging out with you and Newt when I get back! (And Newt, I heard you got into your cat food while I was gone, so when I get back you are going on a diet.)
We went to Miguel's Pizza for dinner. This place is a popular local cafe featuring made-to-order pizza, salads, and pasta. 
Enjoying dinner at Miguel's Pizza with Allie and Braden. My salad (chicken+feta+tomatoes+cucumber+lettuce) was great. I'd come here again any day.
Allie and Braden are cat people too. They have a cute cat named Max. He is quite shy so one of my goals of the trip was for him to allow me to pet him once (and he did!). Photo by Allie.

Day 3: A day of climbing some classic trad routes at the Red


Date: May 21, 2023 (Sun)    Climbed at:  Long Wall 
Getting ready for a day of climbing in the Red.
Braden leading Vector Trouble (10a). This is the offwidth start (which is probably harder than 10a).
Vector Trouble (10a). Our first route of the day.
Looking up Autumn (5.9-), a classic moderate trad climb that was our second route of the day.
Steph leading Autumn (5.9-). I had a smile on my face the whole way. Photo by Allie.
Braden belaying Kentucky style.
Rock Wars (10a). This is a classic trad route in the Red. I had wanted to lead this but felt a bit intimidated, so Braden kindly offered to put the rope up so I could follow the route. It was indeed super fun.
Braden leading Rock Wars (10a). This photo was taken by another party at the base.
Braden leading Rock Wars (10a). THis photo was taken by another party at the base.
Next we climbed B3 (11b). Braden had attempted this route 15 years previous and taken a whipper at the crux. Today was time to send it. He cruised through it. Nice lead Braden!
My new addiction: Ale-8. (Ale-8 is a ginger- and citrus- flavored soft drink in Kentucky. I wish I could find this stuff in Colorado.)
A millipede. I remember these from my childhood growing up in the Midwest.
Cruise Control (5.9+). An adventurous pitch with lots of engaging climbing.
Steph starting up Cruise Control (5.9+). Photo by Allie. (Full disclaimer: I tried to lead this pitch, and the tricky gear placements and committing movement ate away with me as I inched upward; eventually a steep sandy section caused to me lower off and Braden finished off my lead. I quite enjoyed the route toprope, and ended the day feeling chagrined at backing off.)
Leaf shadows.
Can you spot the copperhead?
The copperhead. This is a small one, as most average between 2-3 feet in length. Watch your step, as these guys have a poisonous bite. Better to get bitten by a dog than a copperhead.
These depressions in the sand are made by a bug called the antilon, affectionately known as the doodlebug. At the base of the pit just below the sand, the antilon awaits its prey.
Driving through the Nada Tunnel on the way back home.
No one will mess with you if you are wearing this pullover.

Day 4: After work cragging and another dinner at Miguel's.


Date: May 22, 2023 (Mon)    Climbed at: The Gallery
Steph rappelling after leading 27 Years of Climbing (5.8). Photo by Braden.
Allie leading A Brief History of Climb (10b). This is an awesome pitch of climbing, featuring a 10b crux down low and overhanging patina jugs up high. I was quite proud of my lead since steep sport is an unfamiliar and heady style of climbing for me.
Steph leading A Brief History of Climb (10b). Photo by Allie.
Looking up The Preacher's Daughter (11ab), another phenomenal pitch of climbing. Both Braden and Allie led this route while I enjoyed a toprope.
Braden leading Briefer History of Climb (10d). This trad route features sustained great corner climbing.
I drank a couple of more Ale-8's on my final day of the trip.
Cool roots at the base of the wall.
Allie leading Murano (10bc). Anoher fun route, and our last of the day.
Hiking the muddy road back to the car.
Pretty Rhododendron.
We drove the adventurous way back to the main road, which took us past several more crags.
No problem for this faithful truck.
We went to Miguel's Pizza for dinner. I was happy for the opportunity to go here for a second time in three days!
Inside Miguel's.
While we were waiting for our food, I went over to the climbing shop and bought a guidebook as my souvenir from the trip. I'll peruse it to plan my next trip to the Red!
There are more Ale-8 bottles than any other pop in the recycling area at Miguel's.
Capping off a great trip with dinner at Miguel's. Braden and Allie's friend Craig joined us.

previous and next adventures