Lumpy Ridge CLIMBING

Sundance Buttress

Category: Colorado (RMNP)Elev: ~9,000 ftRock Type: Granite
Dates: see main page for all days I've climbed at Lumpy RidgePartners: see main page for all people I have climbed with at Lumpy RidgeTrip Report #s: see main page for all trip report numbers corresponding to reports for Lumpy Ridge

15 Trip Reports

(routes organized west to east, i.e. left to right)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS

July 2024
August 2023
August 2021
August 2021
August 2021
February 2020
July 2018, June 2024
August 2021 (twice)
August 2021
February 2020
September 2022
August 2019, September 2022
September 2022
August 2022
August 2022, September 2022

This page is trip reports for Sundance Buttress at Lumpy Ridge. Go to Lumpy Ridge main page to access trip reports on other formations at Lumpy Ridge.

Table of Contents for this page

(routes organized west to east, i.e. left to right)

Sundance Buttress

Overlay # 1 (of 6) for Sundance Buttress. Shows all but 4 of the routes I've climbed on Sundance (3 routes are out of view around the left, 1 route is out of view around the right).
(Click image to open larger image file)
Overlay # 2 (of 6) for Sundance Buttress. Shows all but 4 of the routes I've climbed on Sundance (4 routes are out of view around the left).
(Click image to open larger image file)
Overlay # 3 (of 6) for Sundance Buttress. Shows the furthest right routes I've climbed on Sundance (most of the routes I've climbed are around left).
(Click image to open larger image file)
Overlay # 4 (of 6) for Sundance Buttress. Shows the starts of 3 routes I've climbed on the left side of Sundance.
(Click image to open larger image file)
Overlay # 5 (of 6) for Sundance Buttress. Shows the start of the two leftmost routes I've climbed on Sundance.
(Click image to open larger image file)
Overlay # 6 (of 6) for Sundance Buttress. Shows all of the routes I've climbed on Sundance.
(Click image to open larger image file)

Adrenaline (5.9 R, 7-8p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - EUMENIDES SLAB
  • Date: July 6, 2024 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

Adrenaline is the longest route on Sundance, covering 800 feet or more. Although Adrenaline starts right of English Opening, it crossed both that route and Dance, Dance Dance, ending far to the left. Nate and I thought that this route was as good as any on Sundance, and that the "R" rating was probably more like PG13.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. This route starts just right of the obvious dihedral of English Opening,
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Cute stuffed peregrine and eagle at the trailhead, as a reminder of the bird closures on several of the features. The bird closures on Sundance had been recently lifted due to no peregrines found nesting on Sundance.

Pitch 1: 

5.9. Take the left-facing dihedral just right of English Opening. 5.9.
Nate on Pitch 1.
The 5.9 corner on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.7. Climb up and left, cross into English Opening, then head left again to the right edge of Limber Pine Ledge. 
Nate startin up Pitch 2.
Crossing English Opening, looking up at Nate at the belay at the right edge of Limber Pine Ledge.

Pitch 3: 

5.9R. Climb into the 150 foot long, left facing dihedral. This is also a part of the route Dance, Dance, Dance. Where that route goes left, step right and ascend the outside face of the corner, and belay at its top. This part was apparently R-rated but Nate found enough gear to take the R out of it.
Nate leading Pitch 3.

Pitch 4: 

5.8. Climb to a grassy, left-facing flake and follow it to a belay.
(No photos. It seems like this pitch doesn't exist. It is possible we linked Pitches 4&5 without realizing it, since Pitch 5 was supposed to be a "short pitch" but it was not.)

Pitch 5: 

5.8. Adrenaline begins its long journey left. 
This was how we did this pitch. We went up, then traversed left.
A leftward traverse. There is no gear to protect the leader or follower, but it's no harder than 5.7. Exiciting though.

Pitch 6: 

5.8. Go left on the ramp.
Pitch 6.

Pitch 7: 

5.9. Go left again and then up.
Nate at the 5.9 crux. This pitch did not fit the description but it seemed correct and climbed well.

Pitch 8: 

5.easy. Climb to the top.
The final bit to the top. We linked this into Pitch 7 for a 220 foot pitch (a 60m rope would not quite make it).

Descent: 

This route tops out, so the descent is from the top.
To descend from the top of Sundance, it is quickest to continue to the notch between the summit and the formation to the west. There are two rappels. From there, scramble eastward down the bushy gully on the backside of Sundance and back around to the base. 
Standard descent if not topping out: If not topping out, you can also descend via The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
We made two rappels off trees.
Caterpillar climbing the rope.
Sunflower.
Lumpy Ridge Parking Lot.

English Opening (5.9, 6p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - EUMENIDES SLAB
  • Date: August 19, 2023 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route follow a continuous left-facing dihedral system to the top of the crag. The route is about 100 feet left of the Eumenides dihedral. Nate and I thought that this route is just as good as any other route on Sundance. It defintely deserves more traffic.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. This route is located about 100 feet beyond Eumenides. Look for the next continuous dihedral. The start is below a roof/dihedral. Scramble an easy 4th class dihedral crack until about 40 feet below roof/dihedral.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pretty thistle on the approach.

Pitch 1:

5.9. Climb the long-left facing corner 100 feet left of the Eumenides dihedral. Belay just above a cruxy 5.9 section.
Nate leading the initial roof on Pitch 1.
Looking up the second half of Pitch 1 while following.

Pitch 2: 

5.7. It is probably easiest to start off climbing to the left of the dihedral, and then traverse into the dihedral halfway up the pitch. Continue up the dihedral to a belay ledge with some old tat (or belay at the base of the black corner just above and left). It is also possible to climb the dihedral for the entire pitch, but it may be a bit harder this way.
Looking up Pitch 2.
The second half of Pitch 2.
Lush greens mid pitch.
Lush greens mid pitch.
Looking down Pitch 2 from the belay at the top of the pitch.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Climb up the black corner, looking for a hidden small cam around the crux. Continue up and undercling left across a slab to a belay ledge.
Nate leading Pitch 3.
Starting up Pitch 3. The crux is in the first 15 feet.

Pitch 4: 

5.8. Climb a vegetated dihedral on the left side of the ledge. Climb through a crack and bulge to exit the giant corner system and intersect Eumenides. Belay at a bucket seat.
Nate starting up the dihedral on Pitch 4.
Nate pulling the bulge at the end of Pitch 4.
The vegetated dihedral on Pitch 4. This climbs better than it looks.
We had my #2 ball nut with us. We found a place for it!

Pitch 5: 

5.8. The original fifth pitch goes up and right and climbs a crack with a bush in it. It is also possible to climb directly up via Eumenides.
Pitch 5 climbs the crack with the bush. This is the original finish.

Pitch 6: 

5.8. Climb the rest of the way to the top. This is a short pitch.
Final pitch to the top.

Descent: 

This route tops out, so the descent is from the top.
To descend from the top of Sundance, it is quickest to continue to the notch between the summit and the formation to the west. There are two rappels. From there, scramble eastward down the bushy gully on the backside of Sundance and back around to the base. 
The way we decided to descend on this day:It is also possible—but far less common—to continue to the summit of Sundance and hike down a gully on the west side of Sundance back to the base. I think it probably takes longer and is more brushy (no trail) but it has the benefit of summiting Sundance along the way and bringing you directly back to the base of the route.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the standard descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
View from the top of Sundance.
An interesting rock feature.
I wonder how old this tree is?
On top of Sundance.
Some goat used this natural basin in the rock as a convenient toilet.
he NOAA forecast had been for "60% afternoon thundershowers". They hit town but we miracuously stayed dry.
On top of Sundance.
Pretty daisy.
Storms surrounding Longs Peak.
Just above 10,000 feet!
Bark art.
A cute flower on the hike out.

Slim Pickens (5.10a, 5-6p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - GUILLOTINE WALL
  • Date: August 22, 2021 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

A 3-star, steep, strenuous line on superb rock on the left side of Sundance that goes all the way to the summit. This was the 4th climb on Sundance that Nate and I had climbed in the last couple of weekends (and there would be more in the weekends ahead). This route is quite good and deserves more attention!

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Looking up from the base of the route. Begin right of the orange patch of lichen and head towards the obvious chimney that forms Pitch 2.

Pitch 1: 

5.8. Start below a patch of orange lichen. Get into the crack right of the lichen and take it to a belay below a deep chimney.
Looking up Pitch 1. Fun steep 5.8 corner crack climbing.
More great 5.8 climbing on Pitch 1. Pretty sustained at the grade and a nice long pitch.
Guano surprise near the belay between Pitches 1 and 2.

Pitch 2: 

5.7+. Go up the chimney and exit left.
Looking up from the base of Pitch 2.
Taken while climbing the chimney of Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.6. Climb big knobs to a grassy ledge.
Somewhere on Pitch 3. Nate linked Pitches 2 and 3 into a single long lead. We must have taken a slight variation, since at least one section seemed 5.9ish rather than 5.6.

Pitch 4: 

5.10a. Choose the middle of three left-facing corners, and lieback past the crux.
Looking up Pitch 4. The crux section of the pitch.
Nate following the first half of Pitch 4. I placed a bit too much gear on my lead of the first part of Pitch 4 so I belayed just after the crux section.
The second half of Pitch 4. Nate led the second half. The technical crux is on the first half of the pitch, but the second half holds your attention too, and the gear is trickier on the second half.

Pitch 5: 

5.8. Move left to a roof-topped dihedral and turn it on the right.
This section is officially on Pitch 5, but Nate included it his lead of Pitch 4. Actually, the route described in the guidebook is to climb the crack in the left corner to the roof-topped dihedral, at 5.8. We climbed directly up which was good too but seemed a bit harder for a move or two, perhaps 5.9.

Pitch 6: 

5.easy. Climb moderate rock to the top. Or link with Pitch 5 with some simulclimbing.
Moderate climbing on Pitch 6. To the top!

Descent: 

This route tops out, so the descent is from the top.
To descend from the top of Sundance, it is quickest to continue to the notch between the summit and the formation to the west. There are two rappels. From there, scramble eastward down the bushy gully on the backside of Sundance and back around to the base. 
Standard descent if not topping out: If not topping out, you can also descend via The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
View from the top of Sundance, looking towards Estes Park. The lake is Lake Estes.
Rappel 1 of 2 from the notch just below the summit. This is a different rappel route than used by routes that don’t go to the summit.
Rappel 2 of 2 from the notch just below the summit. This is a different rappel route than used by routes that don’t go to the summit.
Hiking out. Lots of late summer growth from a cooler and wetter summer than usual.

Progression (5.10c, 5-6p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - GUILLOTINE WALL
  • Date: August 14, 2021 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This compelling line links a series of left-facing corners on the left side of Sundance.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
No more bird closures for the rest of the season!

Pitch 1: 

5.8. Start by the tree on the right, 40 feet off the ground. Climb a superb dihedral. Follow this up to an exposed stance below a short, white corner.
Nate starting up Pitch 1.
Good climbing on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.10c. Progress up the corner (crux) and enter a hanging chimney. Pop onto Guillotine Wall at a big ledge, but continue up to a higher ledge below a left-facing dihedral.
Looking up at the first part of Pitch 2. The 5.10c crux of the route is the initial layback thin corner.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Face climb just left of the dihedral to a stance. Continue straight up a bulging wall (mildly runnout 5.9).
Nate starting up Pitch 3.
Nice exposure.

Pitch 4: 

5.8- or 5.10a. Step left into a left-leading dihedral. The dihedral forks a big higher. Climb up one of the two branches (right branch easier).
Start of Pitch 4.

Pitch 5: 

5.easy. Continue for 200 feet of easier climbing to the top.
(no photos of this pitch, since we broke left to the ledge since we had a few hours of hand-drilling bolts ahead of us)

Descent: 

This route tops out, so the descent is from the top.
To descend from the top of Sundance, it is quickest to continue to the notch between the summit and the formation to the west. There are two rappels. From there, scramble eastward down the bushy gully on the backside of Sundance and back around to the base. 
Standard descent if not topping out: If not topping out, you can also descend via The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
(no photos)

Grapevine (5.8+, 5-6p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - GUILLOTINE WALL
  • Date: August 15, 2021 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

The bird closures had recently been removed from Sundance, and Nate and I were enjoying being able to climb again on our favorite of the formations at Lumpy. We had climbed Guillotine earlier in the week and Progression the day before, and today we climbed Grapevine. Grapevine follows continuous cracks on the left side of the wall. I particularly enjoyed the unique long chimney of Pitch 2. It only took a couple of hours to climb the route, but even so we narrowly beat a thundershower, as the skies unleashed on us just as we got to the top. Despite getting a bit wet on the descent, it was another good morning of climbing on Sundance.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pretty flowers on the approach. We got a lot of rain this year so everything is quite green still.

Pitch 1: 

5.8+. Climb a short crack just above the ground and move into the groove right of the lichen streak. Go up the groove to a ledge on the left.
Looking up Pitch 1 from the base of the route.

Pitch 2: 

5.8. Begin with a short fist crack on the left, then take the obvious chimney line to a big ledge on the left. A long pitch.
Looking up Pitch 2, which begins in the wide splitter.
Chimney on Pitch 2.
Chimney on Pitch 2. This is a pretty cool feature.
Looking down while leading.

Pitch 3: 

5.8 or 5.9. Step left to an easy crack system, then angle back right to another crack system. This crack system can be reached directly with a bit of unprotected 5.9; it leads to a nice ledge below a pronounced, left-facing dihedral.
Nate leading Pitch 3, as seen from higher belay option at top of Pitch 2.

Pitch 4: 

5.8+. Jam up the dihedral or climb cracks just left of the dihedral. Continue up into a nice crack system. Belay on a higher of two ledges on the right.
Looking up the start of Pitch 4.
One of the crack system options above. There are other options available.

Pitch 5: 

5.easy. Continue for 250 feet of easier climbing to the top of Sundance. Or skip this pitch by just heading right to a ledge and begin the descent. The thunder was booming so this is what we did.
(no photos)

Descent: 

This route tops out, so the descent is from the top.
To descend from the top of Sundance, it is quickest to continue to the notch between the summit and the formation to the west. There are two rappels. From there, scramble eastward down the bushy gully on the backside of Sundance and back around to the base. 
Standard descent if not topping out: If not topping out, you can also descend via The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
It got wet fast. We sought shelter under a small tree to change into approach shoes and organize the rope and rack, but it did little to keep us dry.
The upper rappel anchor. Typically I don't use this anchor and just scramble down to the next rappel, but the wet rock made scrambling dangerous so we opted for the rappel.
View and the rather springlike mid-August weather.

Sidetrack (5.9, 4-6p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - GUILLOTINE WALL
  • Date: February 2, 2020 (Sun)       Partner: Michael Cantrell

A springlike winter day at Lumpy. Sidetrack vies with Mainliner for the best 5.9 route on Sundance.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin about 50 feet left of Mainliner.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Typical Colorado forecast. Time to nab a route at Lumpy before winter sets back in!

Pitch 1: 

5.8+. Climb a thin left-trending crack and face climb to a stance below a slot. We linked Pitches 1&2.
Michael starting up Pitch 1. This is a bit of a heady start to the route but its good climbing.

Pitch 2: 

5.9. Climb the slot on the left and then turn the roof on the left, and belay on a ledge above.We linked Pitches 1&2.
More thoughtful climbing.

Pitch 3: 

5.8. Climb the wide crack to a nice ledge.
Fun #4-sized crack climbing.
Michael nearing the top of the pitch.

Pitch 4: 

5.6. Climb a crack system to a good ledge. We linked Pitches 4-6 as 2 pitches.
Looking up at Pitch 4. We climbed the obvious crack. 

Pitch 5: 

5.9. Climb straight up a steep thin crack into an A-shaped roof. Wild stemming and jamming surmounts the roof. Belay on a nice ledge above. Beware of continuing rightward onto Mainliner (as we did, and had to make a sketchy traverse left back to Sidetrack).We linked Pitches 4-6 as 2 pitches. We accidentally veered right onto Mainliner for the first half of Pitch 5.
This is actually Mainliner. We should have traversed left a bit on the ledge and climbed a steep thin crack....
We got in a little bonus adventure by traversing left back onto Sidetrack. On lead, I actually placed some gear on the ramp, and then climbed across the face below and then up, which was actually fairly fun and a safer way to go (no gear and lots of lichen on the ramp). Michael took the ramp when he followed the pitch, which was the better option for a follower.
The 5.9 roof. A really fun section of climbing. Definitely worth the adventurous traverse to get back on the route.
This is a photo of the actual Pitch 5 start, which is to the left of my photo 7a. Photo found on mountainproject, taken by Errett Allen.

Pitch 6: 

5.7. Climb rightward on easy ground to join Mainliner. Climb a slot up to a belay ledge.We linked Pitches 4-6 as 2 pitches.
Looking up at the last part of the route, which rejoins Mainliner.
Climb the slot.

Descent: 

The descent begins from The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress.
Scramble to The Saddle. Downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
Looking towards RMNP. It was sunny and warm, but also windy, as this photo shows.
We made 2 rappels off fixed anchors on trees. I have scrambled this section in the summer, but with the intermittent snow and ice, rappelling seemed like a good decision.
A view down Lumpy Ridge. Looks more like summer than mid-winter!
Second rappel anchor.
Traversing to the saddle.
Looking at the gully below. Surprisingly devoid of snow for the beginning of February.
Starting the descent.
Sundance basking in the afternoon sun as we hiked out. Looks more like summer than mid-winter! Glad we squeezed in a route before the winter conditions returned...

Mainliner (5.9, 5p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - GUILLOTINE WALL
  • Date: July 21, 2018 (Sat)       Partner: Dow Williams
  • Date: June 26, 2024 (Wed)       Partner: Nate Arganbright

Mainliner is one of Lumpy's best and most popular moderate long routes with exposure, fun climbing and short cruxes. The route ascends the tallest and most remote crag at Lumpy. This was my third climb at Lumpy Ridge and the first climb I ever did on Sundance, in July 2018, before I lived in Colorado. I climbed it a second time in June 2024 (just after they lifted the annual bird closure for the season on Sundance), when the trailhead is now a mere 5 minutes from my doorstep.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
2018Sundance Buttress is the furthest west of the crags at Lumpy Ridge. It is also the largest.
2018The turnoff to begin hiking up to Sundance is clearly marked.
2024The Sundance bird closure had just been lifted.
2024Sunflowers alongside the trail.

Pitch 1: 

5.7. Climb up cracks in the dihedral, ending at a ledge.
2018Looking up from the base of the route. Pitch 1 follows the crack systems.
2018Climbing on Pitch 1.
2018Looking down from the belay. In this photo, Dow is about at the ledge that marks the typical end of Pitch 1. I had started to set up a belay here, but then I looked up and spotted a .2 X4 sticking out of the crack 30 feet up, so decided to climb to the X4 and see if I could clean it while Dow seconded the pitch....
2024Looking up Pitch 1 from the base.

Pitch 2: 

5.8. Climb a corner, then face climb up featured rock, and pull a roof, ending at a nice ledge.
2018Dow starting up the featured face section on Pitch 2. Normally this would be about 50 feet into the pitch, but I had climbed to a high belay for Pitch 1.
2024Nate nearing my belay at the top of our first pitch. This is midway through the guidebook Pitch 2, since just like in 2018 I had climbed to a higher belay.
2024Nate leading off our second pitch. This is near the end of the guidebook Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Climb up a groove, then stem the corners to a ledge, then climb up a pod and finger crack over a bulge, then a good crack that ends at a nice ledge.
2018The 5.9 stem section. Dow linked this with his pitch, so this was the 2nd pitch of the route for us.
2018The 5.9 pod and crack over a bulge section. This was the start of our third pitch, but is typically the second half of Pitch 3.
2018Looking down at the 5.9 pod and crack over bulge section.
2024Looking up Pitch 3 from the ledge that is the top of the guidebook Pitch 2. Like in 2018, we climbed this as part of our second pitch (we climbed the route in four pitches).
2024Looking up at the 5.9 pod and crack over bulge. This was the start of our third pitch, which we linked with Pitch 4 (we climbed the route in four pitches).

Pitch 4: 

5.8. Climb up the dihedral, exiting left to a large belay ledge.
2018The dihedral.
2024The dihedral. Looks pretty much the same as it did 6 years previous. This was part of our third pitch (we climbed the route in four pitches).

Pitch 5: 

5.7. Climb the chimney slot, exiting right to the terrace.
2018Dow nearing the top of the chimney slot, having too much fun to set pro.
2024Nate starting off Pitch 5. To the top.

Descent: 

The descent begins from The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress.
Scramble to The Saddle. Downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
2018Looking up from the top of the route. The route does not end at the summit of Sundance, but you could easily continue on 5.easy terrain. Thundershowers were threatening so we opted to begin the descent.
2018A cool tree high on Sundance.
2018Scrambling down into the gully. This is 4th class, and there are options to rappel if you want.
2018Twin Owls on the pastoral hike. I'd like to climb on Twin Owls someday, when raptor closures are lifted.
2024Sunflower alongside the trail.

Guillotine (5.10c, 5p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - GUILLOTINE WALL
  • Date: August 10, 2021 (Tue)       Partner: Nate Arganbright
  • Date: August 29, 2021 (Sun)       Partner: Nate Arganbright

The Guillotine climbs the solitary, thin crack that shoots up the wall a few paces left of the route Bushes which itself is just left of the popular route Kor's Flake (which I climbed in February 2020). I thought the climbing and the rock on this route was excellent, albeit a bit vegetated at times - this route should be climbed more often. Nate and I climbed this great route twice within three weeks. 

August 10: The bird closures had lifted as of August 1, so Nate and I were eager to head to Sundance. This route marked the start of a streak of several weekends climbing at Sundance in the late summer and early fall (in order: Guillotine, Progression, Grapevine, Slim Pickens, Bushes, Guillotine). Can't get enough of Sundance!

August 29: Nate and I had planned to climb Mainliner (a classic Sundance route I had climbed a few years previous and would like to climb again for fun), but there was a party already on Mainliner and another on deck. So we decided to climb Guillotine again. I needed to get the crux 10c move clean on lead, and we also wanted to climb the version of Pitch 3 that was given in the guidebook (on August 10 we had climbed a crack that was not actually the route the pitch took in the guidebook.) A great route and worth another lap.

The following photos are a mix of the photos from our August 10 and August 29 climbs of Guillotine.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Lots of flowers and tall grass on the approach. It's very green this year.
Bear scat on the trail. Bears are filling up on food for the winter ahead.
Sign at turnoff to head up to Sundance. Bird closure sign has been removed for the season!

Pitch 1: 

5.10c. Jam the tips crack (crux just off the ground) all the way to a good stance near rappel slings on a horn.
Looking up Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.7. Continue the system to a better ledge in an inset (the Bay Window).
Looking up Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. There are a few options for this pitch, all about 5.9. The route described in the guidebook (and what we climbed on our second lap of this route in August 29) is to step right to a fixed pin in an exposed crack. Jam the crack and take a thin crack up to a belay below the huge hanging flake (the Guillotine blade). It is also possible to climb directly up from the belay on a crack system (which is what we did when we first climbed route on August 10).
Looking up Pitch 3. The thin crack with the piton is to the right of the arete (this is what we climbed on August 29). On August 10, we climbed the crack in the corner behind Nate in the photo. It is also possible to climb the crack just left of that one. All options go at about 5.9 and end at the same general spot.
The old fixed pin.
The thin 5.9 crack near the end of the pitch. This was a bit dirty and I was unsure this was actually the correct finish to the pitch, so on lead, I avoided this by going left and then belayed at a nice ledge on top of the crack.
Nate following the 5.9 crack at the end of the pitch. I had not set any gear when I avoided this around left, so Nate could climb directly up. This is a more direct and better finish to the pitch and adds more 5.9 climbing to the route.

Pitch 4: 

5.7. Work right to the hanging chimney behind the blade. Exciting. Belay up and right.
Nate leading the "exciting 5.7".
Looking up while following the pitch, just before the step around.

Pitch 5: 

5.6. Climb a deep groove to the saddle. This is the last pitch of Bushes.
Looking up the start of Pitch 5.

Descent: 

The descent begins from The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress.
Scramble to The Saddle. Downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
I think this is the same tat that was there two years ago.
If there are sticktights, Steph will manage to walk through them.

Bushes (5.8, 4p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - GUILLOTINE WALL
  • Date: August 28, 2021 (Sat)      Partner: Nate Arganbright

You'll climb through a lot of bushes on this route, but in between the bushes are some stretches of really good rock, varied 5.8+ climbing, and nice belay locations. This was the 5th climb on Sundance that Nate and I had climbed on Sundance in the last few weekends.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.8. Climb the large, right-arcing open book dihedral past several bushes fifty feet left of Kor's Flake to a ledge.
Looking up Pitch 1. As implied by the route name, follow the line of bushes. The wider crack in the corner up high (still in shade in photo) is actually very good clean climbing.
The wide crack at the top of the pitch. This is quite good climbing, #3-#4 sized cams required to protect it.
Looking down from the top of the pitch. Yep, lots of bushes.

Pitch 2: 

5.8. Go up a right-facing dihedral for fifty feet and angle right on face to another right-facing corner.
Looking up Pitch 2.
Some more bushes.
Higher on Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.7. Follow the dihedral, which leans left to become a ramp. Share Guillotine's fourth belay or go a bit higher.
The start of Pitch 3.
Looking back, midway along Pitch 3.
Easy chimney near the end of our Pitch 3.

Pitch 4: 

5.6. Climb a deep groove to the saddle. This is the same as Guillotine's final pitch. You can also climb face to the left, which is what we did.
Looking up our Pitch 4. The standard Pitch 4 climbs the deep groove to the right, which is Guillotine's final pitch.

Descent: 

The descent begins from The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress.
Scramble to The Saddle. Downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
Sublime.
Cool tree.
Pretty ingenious way to keep a gate closed.

Kor's Flake (5.7+, 5p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - GUILLOTINE WALL
  • Date: February 22, 2020 (Sat)       Partner: Jon Oulton

Varied and sustained climbing and wild exposure make this one of Colorado's best 5.7 routes.

Jon and I climbed two routes on this stellar winter day at Lumpy. Kor's Flake on Sundance was the first route of the day. On the hike out we detoured to The Bookend and climbed Hot Licks. Gotta make use of the wide gear when you have brought it. What a great day!

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin below a chimney capped with a chockstone left of the deep chimney of Banana Peels.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Approach.
Rock looks dry and descent looks manageable!

Pitch 1: 

5.6. Squeeze up the chimney, and then continue up a crack system to a belay ledge below Kor's Flake.
Looking up the first pitch.
Inside the 5.6 chimney on the first pitch. Pulling over the chockstone is fun. Even more fun when your fingers have gone numb.

Pitch 2: 

5.7+. Work up a corner to gain Kor's Flake. Jam up a crack on the flake ramp to a belay stance with webbing. Don't run it father since no good belays are higher in the wide crack.
Looking up the second pitch.
Jon nearing the top of the second pitch. Yay sun!

Pitch 3: 

5.7+. Continue up the remainder of Kor's Flake. This widens and you have a choice of squeezing in behind it or climbing the face around it. It is moderately runnout. A #5 cam protects much of the wide stuff, and a #6 reduces the runnout a bit. Belay at a small edge at the end of the flake. Really fun.
Third pitch along Kor's Flake.
A #5 works further back.
The widest section. This is the moderately run-out section.
Another large cam is nice to have to minimize runnout.
Looking down the pitch. Fun stuff.

Pitch 4: 

5.7. Climb up and left into a group of small dihedrals. Traverse left and jam a hand crack to a belay ledge. A surprisingly great pitch of climbing on featured rock.
Looking up the start of the pitch. Go up the hand crack on the middle-left of the photo.

Pitch 5: 

5.7. Climb up to a roof and pass it on its left. This is the last "real" move on the route. 5.easy leads to the saddle. 
This roof is fun. It's the last "real" move on the route. After that....
...5,easy to the top!

Descent: 

The descent begins from The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress.
Scramble to The Saddle. Downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base. Due to the wintery conditions, we rappelled off three trees with established rap anchors. These were full rappels with a 70m rope (a 60 would have been a bit short).
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
View looking east down Lumpy Ridge.
View towards Longs Peak.
The descent. When it is dry, I downclimb this. But in the winter it is definitely nice to have a 70 and rap from the anchors on the trees.
Fortunately I had rappelled from Sundance just a few weeks previous (when there was less snow on the descent) so I knew exactly where this rap anchor was. I had to dig through about 2 feet of snow to get to it.
The descent gully below.
Jon enjoying some deep snow in the descent gully. I think dry feet was a lost cause by this point.

Mr. President (5.10d, 4-5p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - TURNKORNER BUTTRESS
  • Date: September 18, 2022 (Sun)      Partner: Nate Arganbright

This challenging route—FA by Layton Kor and Steve Komito in the early 60's— takes a direct line to the saddle beginning at wide, right-facing, flared crack. It is a must-do 5.10 route at Lumpy. Nate and I enjoyed a perfect late summer day on this route. Nate cruised the tricky crux lead.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.9. Climb the chimney/crack with stems and jams.
Looking up from the base of the route.
Nate starting Pitch 1. A bit of bushwhacking and then some fun clean crack/chimney climbing.
Nate making it look easy.
Looking up the pitch while following.

Pitch 2: 

5.10d. Continue the line as it bends right to a thin crux. Switch left along short, steep cracks to a belay perch below two parallel cracks.
Looking up Pitch 2.
Nate nearing the crux. Nice lead Nate.

Pitch 3: 

5.9+. Jam the left crack.
Looking over at the start of the pitch. The route climbs the left crack system.
Some old tat at the belay ledge at the top of the pitch. I think this anchor is past its usefulness.

Pitches 4&5: 

5.easy. Climb up moderate terrain to the saddle. These two pitches can be linked into a single rope-stretching 70m pitch.
Nate starting up the pitch. It may also be possible to go right and stay closer to the corner, but the way we took was good.
Fun moderate climbing on this part of the route.
This is around where Pitch 5 would start if you set a belay at the top of Pitch 4. We linked Pitches 4&5 into one long 70m pitch.
Nearing the top of the pitch.

Descent: 

The descent begins from The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress.
Scramble to The Saddle. Downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base. 
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
The remaining easy scramble to the saddle from the top of our final pitch.
Pretty flowers hanging on in the final days of summer.

Turnkorner (5.10b, 7p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - TURNKORNER BUTTRESS
  • Date: August 3, 2019 (Sat)       Partner: Brad Mering
  • Date: September 25, 2022 (Sun)      Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route is the quintessential 5.10 crack climbing test piece at Lumpy. The route climbs the longest section of the wall, following a long crack system up the middle of Turnkorner Buttress though the left end of a large roof band. The climbing is varied and strenuous.

I first climbed this route in August 2019, as my fifth day of climbing at Lumpy Ridge. I found the route to be superb, and challenging. I climbed this route again three years later, in September 2022. Now my forty-sixth day of climbing at Lumpy Ridge, I found the route quite a bit less intimidating (although some sections still certainly held my attention), but equally superb. This is one of my favorite routes at Lumpy Ridge.

A note on big gear: The larger gear is needed for the pitch through the roof and up the chimney/flare/crack above (this is Pitch 5 as per the route description below); apart from this pitch, a single #3 is the biggest piece needed. Both times I have climbed this route we had a #5, and found it nice to have for the moves off the belay on Pitch 5. Perhaps a deeply-placed #4 could have protected the moves off of the belay, but a #5 is much easier to place and clean. On my 2019 ascent, we had a single #5, double #4, and double #3 and were quite comfortable. On my 2022 ascent, we had just a single #5, #4, and #3 and found this to be sufficient. Note that I did not lead Pitch 5 either time, so this is my perception as a follower.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin at a right-facing dihedral just left of a flake boulder 100 feet left from where the access trail meets the cliff.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
2019Turnkorner climbs through the obvious wide crack splitting the roof (photo taken in afternoon after finishing the climb). The climb went into the sun around 11am (in the fall, the climb goes into the sun a bit earlier).
2022The aspens are turning. Fall is a beautiful time of year to climb at Lumpy.

Pitch 1: 

5.9. Stem and jam the corner.
2019Looking up Pitch 1 from the base of the route.
2022Looking up Pitch 1 from the base of the route. In the fall, the first pitch was in the sun by around 9:30 am.

Pitch 2: 

5.9. Jam a handcrack to a flared crack to a belay on blocks on a ledge. Or continue and link with Pitch 3.
2019Pitch 2.
2022Nate starting up Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Face climb along a thin corner to a sloping ledge with an old bolt and a significant amount of bird crap. This pitch can be easily linked with Pitch 2 or Pitch 4 (in fact, I think it is linked with Pitch 4 in the Gillette guidebook).
2019Pitch 3.
2019I wouldn't trust this tat to hold a fall!
2019Old bolt caked in bird poop. Sundance Buttress is closed due to seasonal raptor closures until July 31.
2022The thin corner on Pitch 3.
2022Piton sans tat in the corner.
2022Bird poop at the belay location.
2022Bird poop at the belay location.
2022Bird poop at the belay location.

Pitch 4: 

5.10b. Climb an overhanging hand/fist crack followed by an off-width slot (can be protected with a #2) to a semihanging belay below the roof band. This pitch is short and can be linked with Pitch 3 (in fact, I think it is linked with Pitch 3 in the Gillette guidebook).
2019Brad starting up Pitch 4. Nice lead Brad!
2022The start of Pitch 4. It is possible to get in a #4 just above where I have placed the #5, so a #5 is not needed on this pitch.
2022Nate nearing the top of Pitch 4.

Pitch 5: 

5.10a. Climb up the strenuous off-width crack over an imposing roof, using some face features out right to get through it. A #5 is nice to have on this section, but it is not needed for any other section of the route. Jam the long, steep flared chimney until it ends at a good stance. Or stretch the rope out and climb all the way to a big ledge about 300 feet below the summit.
2019Looking up at the imposing roof of Pitch 5. This pitch is 10a, but felt as hard as the previous pitch, rated 10b.
2019Long flaring corner.
2019Stemming the corner.
2019Final push to the big ledge about 300 feet below the summit. We climbed the face just left of this in 2022.
2022Looking up at the imposing roof on Pitch 5.
2022Nate starting up Pitch 5.
2022Nate just below where you turn the corner.
2022The sustained flared chimney on the second half of the pitch.
2022Moderate terrain to the big ledge. I think we climbed a crack just right of this in 2019.
2022Nate enjoying a comfortable belay on the big ledge.

Pitches 6&7: 

5.6 or 5.9. There are at least a few options for the final 300 feet to the top starting at the big ledge. The easier (5.6) finish is to angle up and left to a crack that leads to low-angled slabs. The harder (5.9) finish is to climb a wide-hands crack to the right and then angle back left to a ledge (either by a diagonal crack or some face moves through some scoops), and climb easier terrain to the top. It is also possible to traverse straight right from the large ledge at the top of Pitch 5 to the Nose Rappel Route (4 rappels with a single 70 off slung trees).
20195.9 option.
2019The final bit to the top. It started with a move or two of low 5th and then got really easy. (I think we climbed to the right of this in 2022.)
2022Looking up from the large ledge. You can go left for a 5.6 finish. You can go right for a 5.9 finish. We opted to go right.
2022Fun 5.9 crack climbing.
2022Nate taking us to the top. I think you can get onto even easier terrain further to the left (as I think I did in 2019).

Descent: 

The descent begins from The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress.
Scramble to The Saddle. Downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base. 
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
2019The 4th class descent.
2022Beginning the descent. Scramble 4th class (or make a rappel), and then make two rappels.
2022The first (of two) rappel.
2022The second (of two) rappel.

Dalke-Covington Pitches 2-4 (5.8, 3p) (+ Idiot Wind Pitches 1&2 (5.9+ R, 2p))

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - NE SLABS
  • Date: September 24, 2022 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

We had initially planned to climb Idiot Wind (5.10b, 5-7p), but it was quite windy, which wasn't ideal for the empty-your-bladder-before-leading Pitch 3. So we rappelled from the top of Pitch 2 to the base of Pitch 2 of Dalke-Covington, and climbed this route up the buttress. Dalke-Covington climbs the left side of the Dalke-Covington Flake. We opted to descend via the Nose Rappel route (4 rappels with a single 70) rather than climb the final 300 feet of moderate terrain to the top. This was the first time I had descended via the Nose Rappel route, so it was good to check it out.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin below and left of the Dalke-Covington Flake.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
End-of-summer asters basking in the morning sun on the pleasant approach to Sundance Buttress.

Pitch 1: 

~5.6. Climb to the base of the gully system along the left side of the Dalke-Covington Flake.We climbed the first two pitches of Idiot Wind and rappelled to the top of Pitch 1 of Dalke-Covington so we did not climb Pitch 1 of Dalke-Covington. The first two pitches of Idiot Wind were a great start to this adventure.
Looking up Pitch 1 from the base.
Pitch 1 of Idiot Wind. This pitch is 5.9+R for a spicy unprotected move into the upper corner.
Higher on Pitch 1 of Idiot Wind.
Pitch 2 of Idiot Wind. This pitch is rated 5.7R. A fun moderate pitch on great rock.
Looking up Pitch 3 of Idiot Wind. This is the crux 5.10b pitch and quite heady (exposed and runnout). The wind was gusting, so we opted to rappel and finish with Dalke-Covington and save Idiot Wind for a calmer day.
Rappelling from the bolted anchor at the top of Pitch 2 of Idiot Wind.

Pitch 2: 

5.6. Climb the gully system on the left side of the Dalke-Covington Flake. Belay at a nice small ledge about 2/3 of the way up to the top of the flake.
Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.6. Continue up the gully system on the left side of the Dalke-Covington Flake. Belay at a ledge above and left of the top of the flake.
 Nate starting up Pitch 3. I don't think his first piece of protection is rated for a fall, especially a factor 1 fall.

Pitch 4: 

5.8. Stray left from the top of the flake to a wide, 5.8 crack that ends on the big ledge cutting across Turnkorner Buttress.
Looking up Pitch 4.
Splitter on Pitch 4.

Pitches 5&6: 

5.7. The last two pitches begin at a left-angling crack and then follow moderate terrain 300 feet to the top.We did not climb these pitches because we opted to descend via the Nose Rappel Route, which starts at the ledge at the top of Pitch 4.
Looking up Pitches 5&6 from the ledge at the top of Pitch 4.

Descent: 

To descend from the top of Pitch 6, scramble to The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base. 
To descend from the top of Pitch 4, take the Nose Rappel Route (4 rappels with a single 70). We opted for the Nose Rappel Route.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
Rappel 1 of 4 on the Nose Rappel Route.
Rappel 2 of 4 on the Nose Rappel Route.
Rappel 3 of 4 on the Nose Rappel Route.
Rappel 4 of 4 on the Nose Rappel Route.

Plumb Line (5.9, 5p)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - NORTHEAST SLABS
  • Date: August 31, 2022 (Wed)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

An enjoyable not-often-climbed line that runs more or less straight up the slabs and cracks left of a group of black water streaks.

Approach: 

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin at the outside corner of a huge block that drops down from the right side of a low roof band.
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
A new sign on the pleasant approach.
Someone must not want people to trespass.
Asters.

Pitch 1: 

5.8-. Edge up the corner on pretty rock, tie off a knob, and step left above the roof band (exciting 5.8-). Lead up to a dead tree with rappel slings and belay ten feet to the below the corner.
 Looking up Pitch 1.
The first good piece of pro was slinging a dead tree that had fallen against the rock.

Pitch 2: 

5.9. Step right into a left-facing flake and follow it for a full pitch. Go left at a little crystalline band and belay.
Looking up the corner.
Midway up the pitch. It is a bit scrappy but great rock and great climbing.
Nearing the top of the pitch.
Nate following the pitch.

Pitch 3: 

5.6. Lead over the right side of a bulging blob and continue along knobby rock. Go back left to a bushy belay ledge below a short, roof-capped, right-facing dihedral.
Looking up the pitch.

Pitch 4: 

5.9. Advance toward the overhang but escape right below the roof. Go back left above the roof and enter a long right-facing corner. Chimney up to crux jams and stretch the rope out to a belay tree. Rope drag can be an issue above the roof, but the second half of this pitch can be linked with Pitch 5 to the top.
Looking up the corner at the start of the pitch.
Nate climbing the 5.9 chimney. I had some pretty serious rope drag coming out of the roof, so I belayed below the chimney and Nate just linked the chimney into Pitch 5 to the top.
The 5.9 chimney section.

Pitch 5: 

5.easy. Go easily to the summit.
(no photos - as mentioned above, we linked this easy climbing with the guidebook end of Pitch 4)

Descent: 

The descent begins from The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress.
Scramble to The Saddle. Downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base. 
(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)
This is the same tat I've been rappelling off of for 5 years. Still looks okay!

Cragging at Sundance Buttress (5.10-5.12a, 9 pitches)

SUNDANCE BUTTRESS
  • Date: August 31, 2022 (Wed)       Partner: Nate Arganbright
  • Date: September 11, 2022 (Sun)       Partner: Nate Arganbright
  • Date: September 24, 2022 (Sat)       Partner: Nate Arganbright

Routes (Aug 31): Under Babylon (5.10+, 1p)

Routes (Sept 11): Bonzo (5.10b, 1p), Guillotine Pitches 1&2 (5.10c, 2p), Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid Pitches 1&2 (5.12a, 2p), Whiteman Pitch 1 (5.11c, 1p)

Routes (Sept 24): Idiot Wind Pitches 1&2 (5.9R, 2p)

To get in some harder cragging or to avoid the multipitching crowds, Sundance has some great 1-2 pitch options at its base. The rock on Sundance is superb.

Photos from August 31, 2022:
Nate cruising Under Babylon (5.10+, 1p). Direct start to Under the Big Top. Superb rock and engaging climbing.
Photos from September 11, 2022:
First frost of fall (although technically Sept 11 is still summer).
Some wetness a the base of Guillotine. It's been a wet summer.
Smashed bolt on Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.
Frozen frost droplets.
Pitch 2 (5.10+) of Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.
Another smashed bolt on Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Guess someone really didn't want a route up this superb section of rock.
Looking up the corner of Bonzo (5.10b, 1p). This photo was taken in February 2020. Finally I got to climb this awesome corner pitch about 2.5 years later in September 2022.
Nate toproping Pitch 1 (5.12a) of Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.
In his guidebook, Bernard Gillette mentions the chopped bolts on Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. However, these bolts were re-installed after his book was published.
Nate leading Bonzo (5.10b, 1p).
Nice crack section on Pitch 1 (5.12a) of Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.
Nate toproping Pitch 1 (5.11c) of Whiteman.
Awesome crack climbing on Bonzo (5.10b, 1p). This is one of the better single 5.10 pitches at Lumpy.
Toprope solo setup. Because the first pitch of Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid was over half a rope length, we toproped soloed it.
Photos from September 24, 2022:
Pitch 1 of Idiot Wind. This pitch is 5.9+R for a spicy unprotected move into the upper corner.
Higher on Pitch 1 of Idiot Wind.
Pitch 2 of Idiot Wind. This pitch is rated 5.7R. A fun moderate pitch on great rock.
Looking up Pitch 3 of Idiot Wind. This is the crux 5.10b pitch and quite heady (exposed and runnout). The wind was gusting, so we opted to rappel and finish with Dalke-Covington and save Idiot Wind for a calmer day.
Rappelling from the bolted anchor at the top of Pitch 2 of Idiot Wind. See the Dalke-Covington trip report for the rest of our climbing adventures from this glorious fall day.
End of page.