Lumpy Ridge CLIMBING
The Bookend, Left Book, The Bookmark
Dates: see main page for all days I've climbed at Lumpy RidgePartners: see main page for all people I have climbed with at Lumpy RidgeTrip Report #s: see main page for all trip report numbers corresponding to reports for Lumpy Ridge
23 Trip Reports
(formations and routes organized west to east, i.e. left to right)
THE BOOKEND:
Bombay Chimney (5.8, 4p)
Unknown Chasm (5.7, 4p)
Pinch (5.8, 4p)
Corinthian Column (5.9, 4-5p)
Knight's Gambit (5.9+, 5p)
Orange Julius (5.9, 6p)
Hot Licks (5.9, 4p)
Handbook (5.9, 3p)
Climb of the Ancient Mariner (5.10a, 3p)
The Sorcerer (5.8+, 4p)
Winds of Fortune (5.10a, 3p)
Treebeard (5.7, 3p)
Cragging at The Bookend (5.10a-11b, 3 pitches)
LEFT BOOK:
White Whale (5.7, 3p)
THE BOOKMARK / BOOKMARK PINNACLE:
Sidewinder + Joy and Tribulation (5.8, 3p)
Fantasy Ridge (5.9, 4p)
Melvin's Wheel (5.8+, 3p)
Romulan Territory (5.10b, 3p)
Star Trek (5.9, 3p)
Backflip (5.9, 3p)
Penis Chimney (5.9, 2p)
East Side (5.8+, 2p)
Cragging at The Bookmark and Bookmark Pinnacle (5.8-5.11a, 7 pitches)
This page is trip reports for The Bookend, Left Book, and The Bookmark at Lumpy Ridge. Go to Lumpy Ridge main page to access trip reports on other formations at Lumpy Ridge.
Table of Contents for this page
(formations and routes organized west to east, i.e. left to right)
The Bookend
Bombay Chimney (5.8, 4p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: September 30, 2023 (Sat) Partner: Nate Arganbright
The Bookend has some intriguing chimney lines that slice through the south face. Bombay Chimney is the west-most of the four major chimney lines. Although it gets no stars in the guidebook, it looked interesting and Scott Kimball said he remembered it as a fun route with some good climbing. So Nate and I climbed this route as the first of two routes on The Bookend (the second route of the day was Knight's Gambit) on this stellar fall day. We agreed with Scott. This route is defintely worth climbing!
Descent:
From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
Unknown Chasm (5.7, 4p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: October 8, 2023 (Sun) Partner: Nate Arganbright
The Bookend has some intriguing chimney lines that slice through the south face. Nate and I had climbed Bombay Chimney the previous weekend, and found it quite good. So when another glorious Lumpy weekend came to the area, we decided to return to The Bookend and climb Pinch and Unknown Chasm. Our second route was Unknown Chasm, the second from left of the major chimney systems on the face. This route had no description in the guidebook other than to "climb the next chimney on the left." This was an okay route, but we agreed we liked Bombay Chimney and Pinch a bit better.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 2:
5.7. Climb the chimney. For most of it there is a hand crack along the left side. This is a very long pitch. Near the top, either exit right to a ledge or continue up to a ledge.Pinch (5.8, 4p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: October 8, 2023 (Sun) Partner: Nate Arganbright
The Bookend has some intriguing chimney lines that slice through the south face. Nate and I had climbed Bombay Chimney the previous weekend, and found it quite good. So when another glorious Lumpy weekend came to the area, we decided to return to The Bookend and climb Pinch and Unknown Chasm. We started with Pinch, the third from left of the major chimney systems on the face. This route had no description in the guidebook other than to "climb the deep chimney thirty feet left of Sicilian Defence." This was another fun high-quality route, and felt just a touch easier than Bombay Chimney.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Descent:
From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
The Corinthian Column (5.9, 4-5p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: April 9, 2022 (Sat) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This route threads a line up the column between Sicilian Defense and Pinch. It is a fun route that climbs obvious features, and definitely deserves more than the one star it gets in the guidebook. This was our first day at Lumpy of Spring 2022. First tick sighting of the year!
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Knight's Gambit (5.9+, 5p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: September 30, 2023 (Sat) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This route ascends the south face, a short way around the corner and left of Orange Julius. It appears to not see a lot of activity even though it is full of quality climbing and a few 9+ cruxes. Nate and I climbed Knight's Gambit as the second of two routes on The Bookend (the first route of the day was Bombay Chimney) on this stellar fall day. What a great day of climbing!
Descent:
From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
Orange Julius (5.9, 6p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: May 15, 2021 (Sat) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This is one of the classic climbs at Lumpy. It has varied and spicy climbing the whole way. This is one of my favorite Lumpy routes to date. We climbed this as the first route of a two-route day on The Bookend. The second climb was Handbook, not far to the right of this route.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. Start below the right edge of the triangular roof on the southeast prow.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 1:
5.9. Jam a steep flare formed by a pillar and step out of the dihedral dropping from the roof at a thin crack. Face climb to the left edge of the roof and undercling to a belay tree. A better protected version stays with the dihedral, underclinging the entire length of the roof.Descent:
From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
Hot Licks (5.9, 4p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: February 22, 2020 (Sat) Partner: Jon Oulton
- Date: November 12, 2023 (Sun) Partner: Nate Arganbright
The first time I climbed Hot Licks was in February 2020. Jon and I climbed two routes on this stellar winter day at Lumpy. Kor's Flake on Sundance was the first route of the day. On the hike out we detoured to The Bookend and climbed Hot Licks. Gotta make use of the wide gear when you have brought it. What a great day! We thought that Hot Licks was a stellar route with a short and spicy face traverse and some fun wide climbing.
The second time I climbed Hot Licks was on a glorious 50° fall day in November 2023. The route was just as enjoyable the second time.
Both time, our large cams included 1#3, 1#4, 1#5, 1#6.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts just left of the Great Dihedral.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 2:
5.9(+). Continue up the crack, which eventually peters out. There are a couple of good small cam placements before a few spicy face moves rightward. But the feet are pretty good. (This section of Lumpy spice is just as heady for the follower due to a pendulum potential. This is the crux of the route.) Gain a ledge and move right to a fun hand crack. Follow that to an exposed belay shelf on the right below an obvious offwidth. It is probably best to belay directly above the hand crack and then move the belay.Pitch 3:
5.9. Climb the offwidth. This is what you came for. A #5 and #6 are nice to have. A #6 will pretty much allow you to climb the hardest section with a cam at your nose.Descent:
From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Even in the winter conditions Jon and I faced, it was a pretty mellow descent.(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
Handbook (5.9, 3p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: May 15, 2021 (Sat) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This route jams a nice crack system to the right of the Great Dihedral. Quite a fun and quick climb to tack onto the day. We climbed this as the second route of a two-route day on The Bookend. The first climb was Orange Julius not far to the left of this route.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Descent:
From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
Climb of the Ancient Mariner (5.10a, 3p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: May 27, 2020 (Wed) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This route features some quintessential Lumpy slab journey on impeccable rock.
It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with The Sorcerer).(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Descent:
From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
The Sorcerer (5.8+, 4p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: June 2, 2020 (Tue) Partner: Cassie Vendegna
The Sorcerer climbs a dihedral system runs up the east face just right of Climb of the Ancient Mariner.
Cassie and I climbed this just after climbing White Whale on the Left Book. I had been eying this route the previous week while climbing Climb of the Ancient Mariner and it looked like a lot of fun. Indeed it was! It was a step up from White Whale and the gear was a bit trickier, but I enjoy that part about Lumpy. Thanks Cassie for being an awesome partner!
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with Climb of the Ancient Mariner).(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 1:
5.8. Climb the open book corner and continue up a flake system to a belay level with the roof of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, which is just to the left.Pitch 2:
5.8+. Delicately stem and layback up the sustained dihedral. Tricky pro.Pitch 3:
5.8. Continue up the dihedral system. At the roof, undercling left to a belay stance on the arete. This is the same belay as the top of Pitch 2 of Climb of the Ancient Mariner.Winds of Fortune (5.10a, 3p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: July 7, 2024 (Sun) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This is another great route to the top of the Bookend. I had climbed the first pitch of this route in April 2022, but the entire route is worth doing, especially for the wild 5.9+ roof on the second pitch.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts at an overlapping flake some two hundred feet above the base of the rib, below two short trees growing on the rib top.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Descent:
From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
Treebeard (5.7, 3p)
THE BOOKEND- Date: November 11, 2023 (Sat) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This route climbs an obvious left-facing corner on the right side of the Bookend. Although the route never became popular, it is a nice moderate climb with some good climbing.
We had planned to use this as our warm-up route and climb a second route afterward, but the wind had a biting chill to it, my handwarmers were not working, and I was pretty cold by the time we got to the top, and voted to hike out. I spent the afternoon collecing all of my handwarmers and throwing out all of the expired ones, drinking hot chocolate, and doing a treadmill workout to get warm. Nate came over later for a movie. We made plans to return to the Bookend the next day, since it looked warmer and calmer.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with Sorcerer).(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 1:
5.6. Jam an open book on the left side of the ledge, moving right (either into a grassy groove or higher across a slab) to belay at a tree. The first part of this pitch shares with the first pitch of Sorcerer.Pitch 2:
5.7. Cross beneath Winds of Fortune dihedral to a prominent, red corner. There is a wide crack but it protects with small cams in cracks on the wall of the corner. When the corner opens into a wide pod, you can traverse left to the belay of Winds of Fortune or continue up through the pod.Descent:
From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
Cragging at The Bookend (5.10a-11b, 3 pitches)
THE BOOKEND- Date: April 9, 2022 (Sat) Partners: Nate Arganbright
Routes: Winds of Fortune Pitch 1 (5.10a, 1p), Strawberry Shortcake (5.10c, 1p), Pineapple Juice (5.11b, 1p)
The main event of the day was The Corinthian Column (5.9, 4-5p) to the top of The Bookmark, but we began the day by cragging at the base on three great routes.
Left Book
White Whale (5.7, 3p)
LEFT BOOK- Date: June 2, 2020 (Tue) Partner: Cassie Vendegna
White Whale is one of the popular moderate climbs at Lumpy. It offers three pitches of fun 5.6-5.7 climbing on excellent rock, with a mellow descent. It just looked too fun to pass up.
Cassie and I climbed this as the first of two routes. We swung leads, with Cassie leading Pitches 1 and 3. In fact, these were Cassie's first two real trad leads. I never would have guessed if she had not told me! When we finished, it looked like the forecasted afternoon thundershowers were still holding back, so we decided to head over to the nearby Bookend and climb The Sorcerer.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of Left Book, which is just left of The Bookmark. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark and Left Book.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 2:
5.7. Step left a few feet to view a nice finger crack. Climb this until it peters out. Then follow intermittent cracks upward and eventually cross left across a short slab to a belay at a triangular roof feature. This is the shares the belay with the top of Pitch 2 of Hiatus.Pitch 3:
5.7. Head straight up to Paperback Ledge. There are several variations. Avoid water streaks. This is the same as Pitch 3 of Hiatus.The Bookmark / Bookmark Pinnacle
Sidewinder Pitches 1&2 + Joy and Tribulation Pitch 3 (5.8, 3p)
THE BOOKMARK- Date: May 27, 2020 (Wed) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This route combines the diagonal crack system of the first two pitches of Sidewinder with the stellar third pitch of Joy and Tribulation for a fun and quick 5.8 romp to the top of The Bookmark.
Note: This route is referred to as just Joy and Tribulation on MountainProject.com. But the Gillett guidebook describes the first two pitches as part of Sidewinder. The third pitch of Sidewinder involves a 5.9+ hand traverse into a 5.9 fist crack, so climbing Joy and Tribulation as the third pitch keeps the adventure at 5.8.
It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 3:
JOY AND TRIBULATION. 5.8. Climb the obvious chimney, which is steep with great jams and stems the whole way up. At the top, enter the chasm and continue up and left to the bolted rappel station up and around the corner.Descent:
The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Fantasy Ridge (5.9, 4p)
THE BOOKMARK- Date: May 27, 2020 (Wed) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This is a classic Lumpy route with some great rock, some spicy sections of climbing, and an awesome position throughout.
It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 1:
5.8. Climb up the first 10-15 feet of the diagonal crack of Sidewinder, then pull onto the ridge at a flake. Continue up a corner system close to the edge and belay somewhere below a bolt on the face above.Pitch 3:
5.9. Climb into an alcove beneath a triangular roof on the ridge. You can either get past the roof on the right (5.9) or left (5.8). We went right. Above the roof cross a slab into a thin crack with awesome exposure on the southwest ridge. At the end of the thin crack, traverse right to a belay stance.Descent:
The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Melvin's Wheel (5.8+, 3p)
THE BOOKMARK- Date: March 15, 2020 (Sun) Partner: Will Starks
This is a fun 5.8 route that climbs cracks up the left side of the Bookmark.
Will and I climbed this as the first of two routes on the Bookmark. It was pretty cold and windy (hey, it IS winter...), but this just added to the adventure. Next on the agenda was Backflip!
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 1:
5.8. Climb a left-facing dihedral system, jam through a roof, and cut right to an awesome belay spot on the left end of Library Ledge.Pitch 3:
5.8. Squeeze over a bulge and continue up a low-angled chimney system (just don't slip, you'd fall inside!) to a belay.Descent:
The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Romulan Territory (5.10b, 3p)
THE BOOKMARK- Date: November 10, 2019 (Sun) Partner: Nate Arganbright
An excellent route that climbs the major dihedral system in the center of the upper wall.
Nate and I climbed this as the first of a two-route day at Lumpy. Next on the agenda was Fat City!
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 1:
MARGINAL LINE. 5.9+. Select a pitch to Library Ledge. Several options. We chose Marginal Line, which has a bouldery crux start into a seam, and from there follows fun and moderate terrain to Library Ledge.Descent:
The descent for this route is to the east. Scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Star Trek (5.9, 3p)
THE BOOKMARK- Date: January 30, 2022 (Sun) Partner: Nate Arganbright
It was January but sunny and only a slight breeze so Nate and I decided it would be a Lumpy day. We decided to climb Star Trek, a route that ascends the pinnacle between Romulan Territory and Backflip up cracks and face. I had not climbed this route yet, and thought it was great climbing on great rock. We were back to the base just after noon, and debated climbing another route or going and sitting in the sun on Nate's deck. We chose the latter. What an enjoyable day all around. I really love these winter days where the Colorado sun makes it feel like spring.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark. Start 30 feet left of Backflip.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 1:
5.7. Ascend a flared slot past a bush to a wide crack (old bolt) and continue up crack systems to Library Ledge.Pitch 2:
5.9 (5.6X) or 5.10a (5.6X). Climb up an unprotected, knobby slab (5.6X) just left of the arching dihedral on Backflip, and cross an overlap to a thin slash with a tiny tree. Work right to a flake and belay below a little roof. One can also finish this pitch with Klingon (5.10a).Descent:
The descent for this route is to the east. Scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Backflip (5.9, 3p)
THE BOOKMARK- Date: March 15, 2020 (Sun) Partner: Will Starks
This is a fun 5.9 route that climbs flakes and corners on the right side of the Bookmark.
Will and I climbed this route as two long pitches, and agreed this is a great way to climb it. Will and I climbed this as the second of two routes on the Bookmark. The first route had been Melvin's Wheel.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 1:
5.8+. Climb the flake and corner to a flat ledge with a bolted anchor. You can belay here, or continue up mid-5th to Library Ledge. We continued up to Library Ledge, which is what I would recommend since it is easily linked.Pitch 3:
5.9. Climb a thin crack and then move through a steep headwall. At the top of the pitch, you can continue up easy 5th to about 40 feet above the first rappel anchor, or just cut directly right to the rappel anchor.Descent:
The descent for this route is to the east. Scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made two raps with a 70m rope, since the final part (which I had downclimbed previously) was a bit dirty from winter runoff.(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Penis Chimney (5.9, 2p)
BOOKMARK PINNACLE- Date: July 30, 2023 (Sun) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This route climbs a chimney created by a huge flake on the left side of Bookmark Pinnacle. It looks wild and difficult to protect, but ends up being pretty fun 5.9 chimney climbing, and protects quite well with a #7 cam! This was a really fun route I had my eye on for awhile.
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark. Bookmark Pinnacle is just right of the Bookmark.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 1:
5.9. Chimney up behind the column and jam up the left side of stacked blocks. Burrow underneath the blocks for an easier finish.Descent:
The descent for this route is to the east. The route tops out at a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
East Side (5.8+, 2p)
BOOKMARK PINNACLE- Date: September 18, 2021 (Sat) Partner: Nate Arganbright
This route on the southeast corner of Bookmark Pinnacle offers entertaining 5.8+ climbing and tops out on a cool spire summit. Nate and I had planned to climb something on The Book, but on this sunny Saturday climbers had already nabbed all of the best routes, so we decided to climb to the top of Bookmark Pinnacle instead. We finished before noon, and decided to finish off the day by driving over to Mary's Bust and climbing the Brown Palace (5.11a, 6p, sport). What a fun late summer day out on the rock!
Approach:
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark. Bookmark Pinnacle is just right of the Bookmark.(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pitch 1:
5.8+. Scramble up to its base and jam the evident hand crack. Belay on a spacious ledge (Lower Terrace) that encircles the south face. Two cracks breach the roof band above. Choose one of them.Descent:
The descent for this route is to the east. The route tops out at a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Cragging at The Bookmark and Bookmark Pinnacle (5.8-5.11a, 7 pitches)
THE BOOKMARK & BOOKMARK PINNACLE- Date: July 30, 2023 (Sun) Partner: Nate Arganbright
- Date: October 1, 2023 (Sun) Partner: Nate Arganbright
- Date: November 12, 2023 (Sun) Partner: Nate Arganbright
Route (July 2023): Manhole Cover (5.8, 1p)
Routes (October 2023): Backflip Pitch 1 (5.8+, 1p), Bellyflop (5.10+, 1p), Inside Straight (5.9, 1p)
Routes (November 2023): Melvin's Wheel Pitch 1 (5.8, 1p), The Goose (5.10b/c, 1p), Sojurn (5.11a, 1p)
July 2023: The main event of the day was Penis Chimney (5.9, 2p) to the top of The Bookmark Pinnacle, but we began the day by warming up on Manhole Cover, a fun 5.8 that squeezes through a few blocks at the top.
October 2023: Three great pitches of cragging on a beautiful autumn Sunday.
November 2023: A few bonus pitches after climbing Hot Licks (5.9, 4p) on The Bookend. We climbed Melvin's Wheel Pitch 1 and then toproped The Goose and Sojurn on descent back to the base.