Lumpy Ridge CLIMBING

The Bookend, Left Book, The Bookmark

Category: Colorado (RMNP)Elev: ~9,000 ftRock Type: Granite
Dates: see main page for all days I've climbed at Lumpy RidgePartners: see main page for all people I have climbed with at Lumpy RidgeTrip Report #s: see main page for all trip report numbers corresponding to reports for Lumpy Ridge

23 Trip Reports

(formations and routes organized west to east, i.e. left to right)

THE BOOKEND:

September 2023
October 2023
October 2023
April 2022
September 2023
May 2021
February 2020, November 2023
May 2021
May 2020
June 2020
July 2024
November 2023
April 2022

LEFT BOOK:

June 2020

THE BOOKMARK / BOOKMARK PINNACLE:

May 2020
May 2020
March 2020
November 2019
January 2022
March 2020
July 2023
September 2021
July 2023, October 2023, November 2023

This page is trip reports for The Bookend, Left Book, and The Bookmark at Lumpy Ridge. Go to Lumpy Ridge main page to access trip reports on other formations at Lumpy Ridge.

Table of Contents for this page

(formations and routes organized west to east, i.e. left to right)

The Bookend

Overlay # 1 (of 2) for The Bookend.
(Click image to open larger image file)
Overlay # 2 (of 2) for The Bookend.
(Click image to open larger image file)

Bombay Chimney (5.8, 4p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: September 30, 2023 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

The Bookend has some intriguing chimney lines that slice through the south face. Bombay Chimney is the west-most of the four major chimney lines. Although it gets no stars in the guidebook, it looked interesting and Scott Kimball said he remembered it as a fun route with some good climbing. So Nate and I climbed this route as the first of two routes on The Bookend (the second route of the day was Knight's Gambit) on this stellar fall day. We agreed with Scott. This route is defintely worth climbing!

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Fall color explosion along the trail.

Pitch 1: 

5.8. Climb crack/dihedral system about 80 feet to the base of the main chimney. Climb about 20 feet up the chimney / crack to a nice stance.
Looking up Pitch 1.
Chimney in the upper stretches of Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.8. Climb the deep flare for about 120 feet. This is a sustained and fun chimney pitch. It is nice to have a #4. This is the crux pitch.
Looking up the Pitch 2 chimney.
Nate leading Pitch 2.
Some old tat on Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.7. Continue up much easier chimney system with many ramps and features inside to another good stance.
Nate leading Pitch 3.
Fun and easy climbing on Pitch 3.
Lots of flake/rib features.
Looking down from near the top of the pitch.

Pitch 4

5.easy. Climb grooves to the top.
Looking up Pitch 4.
Pitch 4 to the top.

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
View looking up the route from the base, now in the sun after we returned to our packs at the base of the route.
We enjoyed some lunch before heading to our second climb of the day: Knight's Gambit (5.9+, 5p), just about a hundred feet to the right on the Bookend.

Unknown Chasm (5.7, 4p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: October 8, 2023 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

The Bookend has some intriguing chimney lines that slice through the south face. Nate and I had climbed Bombay Chimney the previous weekend, and found it quite good. So when another glorious Lumpy weekend came to the area, we decided to return to The Bookend and climb Pinch and Unknown Chasm. Our second route was Unknown Chasm, the second from left of the major chimney systems on the face. This route had no description in the guidebook other than to "climb the next chimney on the left." This was an okay route, but we agreed we liked Bombay Chimney and Pinch a bit better.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.7. Start up a crack/corner system. Belay on a nice ledge below the chimney.
Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.7. Climb the chimney. For most of it there is a hand crack along the left side. This is a very long pitch. Near the top, either exit right to a ledge or continue up to a ledge.
Looking up Pitch 2 from base of pitch.
Midway up the deep chimney of Pitch 2.
Looking down Pitch 2 from near the top of the pitch.
Nate at a comfortable belay at the top of the pitch. We chose the right exit.

Pitch 3: 

5.6. Climb upward to the base of the headwall.
Pitch 3.

Pitch 4

5.easy. Climb grooves to the top.
Pitch 4 to the top.

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
View east. Climbers on The Bookmark. What a glorious day to be at Lumpy Ridge.

Pinch (5.8, 4p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: October 8, 2023 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

The Bookend has some intriguing chimney lines that slice through the south face. Nate and I had climbed Bombay Chimney the previous weekend, and found it quite good. So when another glorious Lumpy weekend came to the area, we decided to return to The Bookend and climb Pinch and Unknown Chasm. We started with Pinch, the third from left of the major chimney systems on the face. This route had no description in the guidebook other than to "climb the deep chimney thirty feet left of Sicilian Defence." This was another fun high-quality route, and felt just a touch easier than Bombay Chimney.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.8. Start up a crack and finish with a bit of chimney, ending about 100 feet up at a ledge.
View up from the base of the route.
Nate starting up Pitch 1.
Nearing the top of Pitch 1.
Looking down Pitch 1 from the belay at the top of the pitch.

Pitch 2: 

5.8. Climb the chimney with double hand cracks and tunneling behind a chockstone.
Looking up Pitch 2.
Nate leading Pitch 2.
Tunneling behind the chockstone on Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.7. Continue up the chimney system.
Looking up Pitch 3.

Pitch 4:

5.easy. Climb grooves to the top.
 Pitch 4.

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

The Corinthian Column (5.9, 4-5p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: April 9, 2022 (Sat)      Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route threads a line up the column between Sicilian Defense and Pinch. It is a fun route that climbs obvious features, and definitely deserves more than the one star it gets in the guidebook. This was our first day at Lumpy of Spring 2022. First tick sighting of the year!

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Most of the main formations at Lumpy are closed for peregrine nesting in the spring to early summer. But The Bookend is open!

Pitch 1: 

5.9. Begin with a jam crack.
Looking up from the base. The route climbs through the left chimney in the photo.
Nate leading Pitch 1.
The belay at the end of Pitch 1. I felt this final section was the 5.9 crux of the pitch.

Pitch 2: 

5.9-. Climb an obvious chimney.
Nate in chimney mode on Pitch 2. Fun stuff. I'd find this pitch heady on lead but Nate looked pretty comfortable as usual.
Sometimes a hex may be better than a cam!

Pitch 3: 

5.8+. Climb the right edge of the Pitch chimney via cracks and flakes.
Looking up the start of the pitch. The Pitch chimney is on the left.

Pitch 4

5.9-. Continue up. This can be linked with Pitch 3 (as we did) for a nice long pitch of climbing.
Higher up on our third pitch. This is probably part of Pitch 4 described in the guidebook, but we linked it with Pitch 3.

Pitch 5

5.easy. Climb to the top. Several routes share this pitch.
The final stretch to the top. We encountered two other parties here on two other routes (Hot Licks and Great Dihedral).

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
The first tick spotting of the spring!

Knight's Gambit (5.9+, 5p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: September 30, 2023 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route ascends the south face, a short way around the corner and left of Orange Julius. It appears to not see a lot of activity even though it is full of quality climbing and a few 9+ cruxes. Nate and I climbed Knight's Gambit as the second of two routes on The Bookend (the first route of the day was Bombay Chimney) on this stellar fall day. What a great day of climbing!

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Fall color explosion.

Pitch 1: 

5.9+. Start just left of the Foxhead and cimb to a bolt on the left, and then move left to reach a crack. A sloping shelf slants back right to the main chimney. Cross this and belay.
Nate leading Pitch 1.
Old bolt on Pitch 1.
Nice crack on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.9+. Squeeze up to a bulge and go right to a belay in a comfy alcove.
Looking up Pitch 2. The crux at pulling right onto the ledge above.
Comfy belay alcove at the top of Pitch 2.
Climbers on the Bookmark.

Pitch 3: 

~5.7. Climb a mellow slab past the orange alcove of Orange Julius and join Sicilian Defense.
Nate starting up Pitch 3.
Nate on Pitch 3.
Finish of Pitch 3.

Pitch 4

~5.8. Climb a chimney. This shares with Sicilian Defense.
Looking up Pitch 4.
Chimney on Pitch 4.

Pitch 5

5.easy. Climb grooves to the top.
Final pitch to the top.

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
A small squall blowing through.
Rainbow on the hike out.
Yellow aspens alongside the trail.
I had some work to do so Nate and I both ate dinner alone. Nate sent me this photo of the pizza he had for dinner. Yum!

Orange Julius (5.9, 6p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: May 15, 2021 (Sat)      Partner: Nate Arganbright

This is one of the classic climbs at Lumpy. It has varied and spicy climbing the whole way. This is one of my favorite Lumpy routes to date. We climbed this as the first route of a two-route day on The Bookend. The second climb was Handbook, not far to the right of this route.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. Start below the right edge of the triangular roof on the southeast prow.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Pasque flowers on approach.

Pitch 1: 

5.9. Jam a steep flare formed by a pillar and step out of the dihedral dropping from the roof at a thin crack. Face climb to the left edge of the roof and undercling to a belay tree. A better protected version stays with the dihedral, underclinging the entire length of the roof.
Pitch 1.
The Pitch 1 roof. Sort of intimidating, but great climbing.

Pitch 2: 

5.8. Go up a crack and head across a slab. Belay above an orange alcove capped with an angular roof.
Looking up the start of Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Step right onto a thin slab (scary 5.9) and join the crystalline hand crack on the second pitch Hot Licks. Belay where a horizontal crack shoots left.
Start of Pitch 3. Nate is just past the spicy 5.9 face section.
Nice crack at the end of Pitch 3. This is part of Hot Licks.

Pitch 4

5.7. An awesome hand traverse along the horizontal crack.
Steph on the awesome 5.7 hand traverse.

Pitch 5

5.8. Climb a shallow crack, step around left, and squeeze up the final portion of Sicilian Defense.
Looking up the start of the pitch.
The final portion of Sicilian Defense.

Pitch 6

5.easy. Climb grooves to the top.
Easy climbing to the top!

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

Hot Licks (5.9, 4p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: February 22, 2020 (Sat)      Partner: Jon Oulton
  • Date: November 12, 2023 (Sun)      Partner: Nate Arganbright

The first time I climbed Hot Licks was in February 2020. Jon and I climbed two routes on this stellar winter day at Lumpy. Kor's Flake on Sundance was the first route of the day. On the hike out we detoured to The Bookend and climbed Hot Licks. Gotta make use of the wide gear when you have brought it. What a great day! We thought that Hot Licks was a stellar route with a short and spicy face traverse and some fun wide climbing. 

The second time I climbed Hot Licks was on a glorious 50° fall day in November 2023. The route was just as enjoyable the second time. 

Both time, our large cams included 1#3, 1#4, 1#5, 1#6.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts just left of the Great Dihedral.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
2020The Bookend.
2020The trail is well-marked.
Pitch 1: 5.8. Jam up a hand and fist crack. It is possible to belay at a stance below a wider section or continue up to a hanging belay just below where the crack peters out. In 2020, I chose the lower belay (which made Pitch 2 longer) while in 2023 I chose the hanging belay.
2020Looking up Pitch 1, which climbs a wide crack to the left of the dihedral. (The dihedral is the Great Dihedral route, which looks fun too.) There were a couple of required plunge stepping in TC pro moves required to get to the rock.
2020Looking up the crack. It was a bit wet, but still good climbing. We had decided to bring singles in #3 and #4 which was sufficient with some bumping.
2020Looking down the pitch from the belay perch at the top. Jon and I both started on the crack on the right wall to minimize the number of TC pro plunge steps.
2023Looking up Pitch 1. Great Dihedral shoots off to the right while Hot Licks climbs up the steep fist crack.
2023Start of Pitch 1.
2023Crack climbing on Pitch 1. I bumped the single #3 and #4 a lot.
2023Nate following Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.9(+). Continue up the crack, which eventually peters out. There are a couple of good small cam placements before a few spicy face moves rightward. But the feet are pretty good. (This section of Lumpy spice is just as heady for the follower due to a pendulum potential. This is the crux of the route.) Gain a ledge and move right to a fun hand crack. Follow that to an exposed belay shelf on the right below an obvious offwidth. It is probably best to belay directly above the hand crack and then move the belay.
2020Looking up the wide crack at the start of Pitch 2. Even though the #5 and #6 were brought for the Pitch 3 offwidth, we were glad to have them both here too.
2020Approaching the face traverse. The crux comes after the highest cam on the left crack. A follower fall here might result in an exciting swing.
2020Ah, back to crack climbing.
2020Jon at the belay perch at the base of the offwidth.
2023Nate leading Pitch 2.
2023There are some bomber offset cam placements below the face traverse crux.
2023Nate on the short section we pitched out between our belay at the top of Pitch 2 and the start of Pitch 3.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Climb the offwidth. This is what you came for. A #5 and #6 are nice to have. A #6 will pretty much allow you to climb the hardest section with a cam at your nose.
2020Looking up. Fun stuff ahead!
2020Looking up the final section of offwidth.
2020Looking down the pitch. We appreciated having a #6 for this section.
2023Looking up Pitch 3. It starts as a hand crack.
2023Old piton.
2023The wideness.
2023Looking down Pitch 3 midway up.

Pitch 4

5.easy. Climb easy terrain to the summit.
2020The final 5.easy to the summit.

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Even in the winter conditions Jon and I faced, it was a pretty mellow descent.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
2020A view towards Longs Peak.
2023This piece of cliff bar looks awfully like a turd.

Handbook (5.9, 3p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: May 15, 2021 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route jams a nice crack system to the right of the Great Dihedral. Quite a fun and quick climb to tack onto the day. We climbed this as the second route of a two-route day on The Bookend. The first climb was Orange Julius not far to the left of this route.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. 
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Handbook is the obvious crack. This photo was taken from Orange Julius, which we climbed just before Handbook.

Pitch 1: 

5.7. Climb easy rock to reach the main crack system and belay on a pillar on the left.
Looking up from the base of the route.
Nate on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.9. Jam and lieback the crack to a belay below several left-leaning grooves.
The crack climbing continues on Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.6. Pick a groove and climb to the top.
Easy grooves to the top.

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

Climb of the Ancient Mariner (5.10a, 3p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: May 27, 2020 (Wed)      Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route features some quintessential Lumpy slab journey on impeccable rock.

It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with The Sorcerer).
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Social distancing guidelines at Lumpy.

Pitch 1: 

5.10a. Climb the open book corner, turn left and keep climbing the corner to a roof. Clip a bolt, pull a fun 5.9 move over the roof, and then take a deep breath and slab past two bolts to a bolted anchor. 
Start of Pitch 1.
Nearing the roof on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.9. Embark on a thoughtful journey up the slab. Great rock. 6 bolts in about 110 feet.
Nate starting off Pitch 2.
Thoughtful movement on a sea of great rock.

Pitch 3: 

5.easy. Climb easy terrain to the summit.
Easy 5th to the top.

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

The Sorcerer (5.8+, 4p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: June 2, 2020 (Tue)      Partner: Cassie Vendegna

The Sorcerer climbs a dihedral system runs up the east face just right of Climb of the Ancient Mariner.

Cassie and I climbed this just after climbing White Whale on the Left Book. I had been eying this route the previous week while climbing Climb of the Ancient Mariner and it looked like a lot of fun. Indeed it was! It was a step up from White Whale and the gear was a bit trickier, but I enjoy that part about Lumpy. Thanks Cassie for being an awesome partner!

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with Climb of the Ancient Mariner).
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Some shooting stars on the approach.
A tree taken down by the winter storms.

Pitch 1: 

5.8. Climb the open book corner and continue up a flake system to a belay level with the roof of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, which is just to the left.
Looking up Pitch 1.
Higher up on Pitch 1.
Nearing the belay location at the top of Pitch 1, level with the roof of Climb of an Ancient Mariner just to the left.
Cassie cruising up Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.8+. Delicately stem and layback up the sustained dihedral. Tricky pro.
Looking up Pitch 2.
Higher up on Pitch 2.
Pretty much at the the belay on Pitch 2. Pitch 3 ahead. (Note: A 5.9+ variation to Pitch 3 goes left at the roof and climbs the outer corner for a bit before rejoining. We continued straight up the crack system.)
More fun climbing in the sun.

Pitch 3: 

5.8. Continue up the dihedral system. At the roof, undercling left to a belay stance on the arete. This is the same belay as the top of Pitch 2 of Climb of the Ancient Mariner. 
Looking up Pitch 3.
The roof. Undercling out left to the belay stance on the arete.
Cassie nearing the roof.
Cassie mid-roof. This is a fun section.

Pitch 4

5.easy. Climb easy rock to the summit.
Cassie leading Pitch 4 to the top!

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
Looking west down Lumpy Ridge towards Sundance.
The mellow scramble from the summit.

Winds of Fortune (5.10a, 3p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: July 7, 2024 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This is another great route to the top of the Bookend. I had climbed the first pitch of this route in April 2022, but the entire route is worth doing, especially for the wild 5.9+ roof on the second pitch.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts at an overlapping flake some two hundred feet above the base of the rib, below two short trees growing on the rib top.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Sunflower.
Raptor closures. The Bookend is one of the few main formations that does not get closed....yet at least.
Proof that I saw a tick. These are pretty common in the spring at Lumpy.

Pitch 1: 

5.10a. Go right along the flake and head up steep rock to a thin slash that cuts back left. Hike past the trees to a better belay.
Move the belay over 4th class rock to reach the main wall.
Looking up Pitch 1.
Nate cruising up Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.9+. Climb into a tight dihedral and jam the roof to the top. 
Pitch 2 starts in the corner crack in the middle of the photo.
Starting up Pitch 2.
The wild 5.9+ roof on Pitch 2.
Nate following Pitch 2, above the roof.

Pitch 3

5.6. Step left to a thin crack and follow that.
Nate starting up Pitch 3. 5-easy to the top!

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

Treebeard (5.7, 3p)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: November 11, 2023 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route climbs an obvious left-facing corner on the right side of the Bookend. Although the route never became popular, it is a nice moderate climb with some good climbing.

We had planned to use this as our warm-up route and climb a second route afterward, but the wind had a biting chill to it, my handwarmers were not working, and I was pretty cold by the time we got to the top, and voted to hike out. I spent the afternoon collecing all of my handwarmers and throwing out all of the expired ones, drinking hot chocolate, and doing a treadmill workout to get warm. Nate came over later for a movie. We made plans to return to the Bookend the next day, since it looked warmer and calmer.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with Sorcerer).
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.6. Jam an open book on the left side of the ledge, moving right (either into a grassy groove or higher across a slab) to belay at a tree. The first part of this pitch shares with the first pitch of Sorcerer.
Looking up Pitch 1. This is the same start as for Sorcerer, but Sorcerer breaks left while Treebeard breaks right.

Pitch 2: 

5.7. Cross beneath Winds of Fortune dihedral to a prominent, red corner. There is a wide crack but it protects with small cams in cracks on the wall of the corner. When the corner opens into a wide pod, you can traverse left to the belay of Winds of Fortune or continue up through the pod.
Pitch 2 corner.
Finish. We traversed left to avoid the wide pod but you could also climb it directly as a squeeze chimney.

Pitch 3: 

5.6. Follow the dihedral above to easier ground. This is a long pitch (full 70m rope just makes it to the top).
Nate starting up Pitch 3.
 Low-angled corner on the second half of Pitch 3.

Descent: 

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.
(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

Cragging at The Bookend (5.10a-11b, 3 pitches)

THE BOOKEND
  • Date: April 9, 2022 (Sat)     Partners: Nate Arganbright

Routes: Winds of Fortune Pitch 1 (5.10a, 1p), Strawberry Shortcake (5.10c, 1p), Pineapple Juice (5.11b, 1p)

The main event of the day was The Corinthian Column (5.9, 4-5p) to the top of The Bookmark, but we began the day by cragging at the base on three great routes.

Photos April 9, 2022:
Looking up Pitch 1 of Winds of Fortune. This 10a pitch is better than it looks. You can rappel from a tree at the top of the pitch back to the ground.
Strawberry Shortcake (5.10c, 1p) climbs the obvious crack. An excellent pitch of crack climbing. The crux is at the roof.
Nate starting up Strawberry Shortcake (5.10c, 1p). Nice lead as always Nate!
We toproped Pineapple Juice (5.11b, 1p). This shares the anchor with Strawberry Shortcake (5.10c, 1p).
Old bolt on Pineapple Juice (5.11b, 1p).
Bolted anchor (with chains so you can easily rappel) at the top of Strawberry Shortcake (5.10c, 1p) and Pineapple Juice (5.11b, 1p). This anchor is at the top of Pitch 1 of Orange Julius (5.9, 5p).

Left Book

Overlay for Left Book.
(Click image to open larger image file)

White Whale (5.7, 3p)

LEFT BOOK
  • Date: June 2, 2020 (Tue)      Partner: Cassie Vendegna

White Whale is one of the popular moderate climbs at Lumpy. It offers three pitches of fun 5.6-5.7 climbing on excellent rock, with a mellow descent. It just looked too fun to pass up.

Cassie and I climbed this as the first of two routes. We swung leads, with Cassie leading Pitches 1 and 3. In fact, these were Cassie's first two real trad leads. I never would have guessed if she had not told me! When we finished, it looked like the forecasted afternoon thundershowers were still holding back, so we decided to head over to the nearby Bookend and climb The Sorcerer.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of Left Book, which is just left of The Bookmark. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark and Left Book.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.6. Climb a fun flake system that leads to the left edge of the obvious Hiatus roof and belay at a tree.
Cassie leading Pitch 1.
Pitch 1 fun-ness.

Pitch 2: 

5.7. Step left a few feet to view a nice finger crack. Climb this until it peters out. Then follow intermittent cracks upward and eventually cross left across a short slab to a belay at a triangular roof feature. This is the shares the belay with the top of Pitch 2 of Hiatus.
Looking up the start of Pitch 2.
The intermittent cracks midway up Pitch 2.
The triangular roof feature at the belay.
Cassie approaching the short slab section at the end of the pitch.

Pitch 3: 

5.7. Head straight up to Paperback Ledge. There are several variations. Avoid water streaks. This is the same as Pitch 3 of Hiatus. 
Cassie off to the races on Pitch 3.
This is the way we went. It was a tad runnout, but on good face holds and never harder than 5.7. Cassie blazed through it with hardly a hesitation.

Descent: 

Walk off west down Paperback Ledge. This is a mellow descent.
The pleasant 5 minute walk off Paperback Ledge back to our packs at the base.

The Bookmark / Bookmark Pinnacle

Overlay #1 (of 3) for The Bookmark
(Click image to open larger image file)
Overlay #2 (of 3) for The Bookmark
(Click image to open larger image file)
Overlay #3 (of 3) for The Bookmark
(Click image to open larger image file)

Sidewinder Pitches 1&2 + Joy and Tribulation Pitch 3 (5.8, 3p)

THE BOOKMARK
  • Date: May 27, 2020 (Wed)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route combines the diagonal crack system of the first two pitches of Sidewinder with the stellar third pitch of Joy and Tribulation for a fun and quick 5.8 romp to the top of The Bookmark.

Note: This route is referred to as just Joy and Tribulation on MountainProject.com. But the Gillett guidebook describes the first two pitches as part of Sidewinder. The third pitch of Sidewinder involves a 5.9+ hand traverse into a 5.9 fist crack, so climbing Joy and Tribulation as the third pitch keeps the adventure at 5.8.

It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

SIDEWINDER. 5.7+. Follow the obvious diagonal crack system.
Looking up Pitch 1.
Somewhere on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

SIDEWINDER. 5.8. Keep following the diagonal crack system. This part can be linked with Pitch 1. There is some vegetation, but the climbing is still quite fun.
Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

JOY AND TRIBULATION. 5.8. Climb the obvious chimney, which is steep with great jams and stems the whole way up. At the top, enter the chasm and continue up and left to the bolted rappel station up and around the corner.
 Looking up the chimney.
Looking down from the top of the pitch. I am belaying at the rap station.

Descent: 

The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.
(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
(no photos)

Fantasy Ridge (5.9, 4p)

THE BOOKMARK
  • Date: May 27, 2020 (Wed)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This is a classic Lumpy route with some great rock, some spicy sections of climbing, and an awesome position throughout.

It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.8. Climb up the first 10-15 feet of the diagonal crack of Sidewinder, then pull onto the ridge at a flake. Continue up a corner system close to the edge and belay somewhere below a bolt on the face above. 
Gain the ridge at the flake feature just below the yellow rock.
Looking down from the belay at the top of the pitch.

Pitch 2: 

5.9. Head up onto the slab, clip a bolt, place a cam, and then cut right to gain a crack system. Continue easily up to a belay. 
Nate leading Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Climb into an alcove beneath a triangular roof on the ridge. You can either get past the roof on the right (5.9) or left (5.8). We went right. Above the roof cross a slab into a thin crack with awesome exposure on the southwest ridge. At the end of the thin crack, traverse right to a belay stance.
Looking up towards the alcove and roof.
Looking down after pulling the right side of the roof.
The section above the roof. I had quite a bit of rope drag at this point (less gear at the roof would have helped) and decided to stop and belay mid-pitch. The position on this pitch is hard to beat.

Pitch 4

5.9. Climb the slightly overhanging crack above the belay. Proceed easily to the top. Cross a chasm to get to the rappel anchor.
The start of Pitch 4. This is a short pitch, and Nate linked this with the second half of Pitch 3.

Descent: 

The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.
(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
(no photos)

Melvin's Wheel (5.8+, 3p)

THE BOOKMARK
  • Date: March 15, 2020 (Sun)     Partner: Will Starks

This is a fun 5.8 route that climbs cracks up the left side of the Bookmark. 

Will and I climbed this as the first of two routes on the Bookmark. It was pretty cold and windy (hey, it IS winter...), but this just added to the adventure. Next on the agenda was Backflip!

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
The cows seem to really like this section of trail....

Pitch 1: 

5.8. Climb a left-facing dihedral system, jam through a roof, and cut right to an awesome belay spot on the left end of Library Ledge.
At the base of the route. The pitch starts at the dead snag. It was a chilly start. But hey, it is winter...
A photo of the base of the route a few hours later, around 1pm. Looking a bit warmer now, but still holding shade on the lower section of the pitch.
Will starting up Pitch 1.
Higher on Pitch 1. Sun!

Pitch 2: 

5.8+. Jam a perfect crack up the clean slab. Belay at a slung horn in an alcove below a wide crack/chimney.
Looking up the Pitch 2 splitter.
Looking down at the cushy belay spot at the top of Pitch 1.
Looking down the Pitch 2 splitter.

Pitch 3: 

5.8. Squeeze over a bulge and continue up a low-angled chimney system (just don't slip, you'd fall inside!) to a belay.
Looking up the start of Pitch 3. Fun burly 5.8.
Looking down from the start of Pitch 3. You can see the splitter of Pitch 2 below.
The chimney at the top of Pitch 3. You could probably protect this with a #4 but its a bit easier to just stay above it and stem up it.
Will at the belay at the top of the pitch.

Descent: 

The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.
(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
The view is hard to beat.
The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.
The route gives a great view of the splitter offwidth of Hot Licks across the way on the Bookend. I had climbed this a month previous.
The second rappel to 2nd class terrain.
We had stopped short of the rappel, so we did a short pitch to get there. Nice exposure and flake features.
Will discovered a Swiss Cheese Man in his lunch.
Location of the first rappel.
Close up of Mr. Swiss Cheese Man.

Romulan Territory (5.10b, 3p)

THE BOOKMARK
  • Date: November 10, 2019 (Sun)      Partner: Nate Arganbright

An excellent route that climbs the major dihedral system in the center of the upper wall. 

Nate and I climbed this as the first of a two-route day at Lumpy. Next on the agenda was Fat City!

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

MARGINAL LINE. 5.9+. Select a pitch to Library Ledge. Several options. We chose Marginal Line, which has a bouldery crux start into a seam, and from there follows fun and moderate terrain to Library Ledge.
Marginal Line start. This route had only one star in the guidebook but I thought it was pretty fun.

Pitch 2: 

5.10b. Climb the corner. There is a steep crux bulge midway up. The gear is a bit tricky but its all there if you look for it. Excellent climbing that tests your trad game.
Looking up Pitch 2.
Midway up Pitch 2. The crux is at the bulge about 20 feet above me.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Climb up into the dihedral proper and lieback to its top, then undercling right to a belay stance. More excellent climbing.
Nate starting up Pitch 3.
A view down Pitch 3. Excellent rock.

Descent: 

The descent for this route is to the east. Scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.
(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
The view is hard to beat. That's Longs Peak in the distance.

Star Trek (5.9, 3p)

THE BOOKMARK
  • Date: January 30, 2022 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

It was January but sunny and only a slight breeze so Nate and I decided it would be a Lumpy day. We decided to climb Star Trek, a route that ascends the pinnacle between Romulan Territory and Backflip up cracks and face. I had not climbed this route yet, and thought it was great climbing on great rock. We were back to the base just after noon, and debated climbing another route or going and sitting in the sun on Nate's deck. We chose the latter. What an enjoyable day all around. I really love these winter days where the Colorado sun makes it feel like spring.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark. Start 30 feet left of Backflip.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Approaching The Bookmark.
Some ice Nate spotted and took a photo of.
I thought this perspective was cool. Photo by Nate.

Pitch 1: 

5.7. Ascend a flared slot past a bush to a wide crack (old bolt) and continue up crack systems to Library Ledge.
The route started from the snow.
Looking up Pitch 1. Due to the snow we started off on Marginal Line and busted right onto Star Trek near the old bolt.
 The old bolt at the wide section.
Can't beat the view.
Looking up the wideness.
Great rock and fun climbing higher on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.9 (5.6X) or 5.10a (5.6X). Climb up an unprotected, knobby slab (5.6X) just left of the arching dihedral on Backflip, and cross an overlap to a thin slash with a tiny tree. Work right to a flake and belay below a little roof. One can also finish this pitch with Klingon (5.10a).
Nate starting up the 5.6 X section that comprises the first half of the pitch. I wouldn't want to lead this pitch but Nate cruised up it without hesitation.
Looking up Pitch 2.
Higher on Pitch 2. More great rock and climbing.
This is the Klingon (10a) finish of the pitch. We climbed the 5.9 finish to the right.
Steph on the 5.9 finish. A really nice finis

Pitch 3: 

5.7. Pop over the roof and follow a flared groove, then move right to the belay.
Pitch 3.

Descent: 

The descent for this route is to the east. Scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.
(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Nate enjoying the winter sun at a lunch break back at the base of the route.
A view back towards Lumpy Ridge on the hike out. Bluebird winter day!

Backflip (5.9, 3p)

THE BOOKMARK
  • Date: March 15, 2020 (Sun)     Partner: Will Starks

This is a fun 5.9 route that climbs flakes and corners on the right side of the Bookmark. 

Will and I climbed this route as two long pitches, and agreed this is a great way to climb it. Will and I climbed this as the second of two routes on the Bookmark. The first route had been Melvin's Wheel.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark. 
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.8+. Climb the flake and corner to a flat ledge with a bolted anchor. You can belay here, or continue up mid-5th to Library Ledge. We continued up to Library Ledge, which is what I would recommend since it is easily linked.
Looking up Pitch 1.
Looking down Pitch 1.
Will just about at Library Ledge.

Pitch 2: 

5.8+. Lieback up the arching dihedral, and then traverse right with an undercling flake. Continue right to a belay stance. We linked with Pitch 3 to climb the route in two long pitches.
Will dancing through the undercling section on Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Climb a thin crack and then move through a steep headwall. At the top of the pitch, you can continue up easy 5th to about 40 feet above the first rappel anchor, or just cut directly right to the rappel anchor.
Pitch 3.
The thin crack. The piton mentioned in some older route descriptions is no more.
The end of the route. You can continue up for about 40 more feet on easy cracks, or cut right directly to the first rap anchor.

Descent: 

The descent for this route is to the east. Scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made two raps with a 70m rope, since the final part (which I had downclimbed previously) was a bit dirty from winter runoff.
(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
The view is hard to beat. Photo by Will.
The view is hard to beat. Photo by Will.
Rapping the descent chimney.

Penis Chimney (5.9, 2p)

BOOKMARK PINNACLE
  • Date: July 30, 2023 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route climbs a chimney created by a huge flake on the left side of Bookmark Pinnacle. It looks wild and difficult to protect, but ends up being pretty fun 5.9 chimney climbing, and protects quite well with a #7 cam! This was a really fun route I had my eye on for awhile. 

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark. Bookmark Pinnacle is just right of the Bookmark.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
This is a view down onto Penis Chimney, taken while climbing Backflip in March 2020.
We decided to bust out my #7 (still brand new) for this route. It was handy to have.

Pitch 1: 

5.9. Chimney up behind the column and jam up the left side of stacked blocks. Burrow underneath the blocks for an easier finish.
Nate leading the Pitch 1 chimney.
Looking down the chimney from midway up the pitch.
Some 'schwacking to get to the chimney.
Nearing the top of the pitch.
Looking up into the chimney.
Nearing the top of the pitch.
Looking up into the chimney.
 Zoomed in on the #7. Nate bumped this along for most of his lead. It made the lead feel quite well-protected.

Pitch 2: 

5.8. Walk left on the Lower Terrace and jam a steep crack up the west face, finishing on the south ridge.
Looking up the pitch.
The top of the pitch intersects the East Side route to the top of Bookmark Pinnacle. This is a fun and exposed stretch of climbing to the top.

Descent: 

The descent for this route is to the east. The route tops out at a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.
(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Rappelling from the top of Bookmark Pinnacle.
Sunflower.
Penstemon.
Thistle.

East Side (5.8+, 2p)

BOOKMARK PINNACLE
  • Date: September 18, 2021 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route on the southeast corner of Bookmark Pinnacle offers entertaining 5.8+ climbing and tops out on a cool spire summit. Nate and I had planned to climb something on The Book, but on this sunny Saturday climbers had already nabbed all of the best routes, so we decided to climb to the top of Bookmark Pinnacle instead. We finished before noon, and decided to finish off the day by driving over to Mary's Bust and climbing the Brown Palace (5.11a, 6p, sport). What a fun late summer day out on the rock!

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark. Bookmark Pinnacle is just right of the Bookmark.
(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Squirrel all fattened up for the cold winter ahead.

Pitch 1: 

5.8+. Scramble up to its base and jam the evident hand crack. Belay on a spacious ledge (Lower Terrace) that encircles the south face. Two cracks breach the roof band above. Choose one of them.
Looking up Pitch 1.
More fun climbing on Pitch 1.
 A steep hand crack to finish off the pitch. We actually climbed this short section as an independent pitch.

Pitch 2: 

5.7. Move left and finish on the south edge of the summit blade.
Looking up Pitch 2.
Nate stemming the chimney before moving onto the arete.
Nate romping up the exposed arete.
Shadow climbing.
Summit photo.

Descent: 

The descent for this route is to the east. The route tops out at a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.
(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Rap anchor on the spire summit of Bookmark Pinnacle. Nate and Scott installed the aircraft cable anchor several years ago and it still looks brand new!
Rappelling.
Another bluebird day at Lumpy.

Cragging at The Bookmark and Bookmark Pinnacle (5.8-5.11a, 7 pitches)

THE BOOKMARK & BOOKMARK PINNACLE
  • Date: July 30, 2023 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright
  • Date: October 1, 2023 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright
  • Date: November 12, 2023 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route (July 2023): Manhole Cover (5.8, 1p)

Routes (October 2023): Backflip Pitch 1 (5.8+, 1p), Bellyflop (5.10+, 1p), Inside Straight (5.9, 1p)

Routes (November 2023): Melvin's Wheel Pitch 1 (5.8, 1p), The Goose (5.10b/c, 1p), Sojurn (5.11a, 1p)

July 2023: The main event of the day was Penis Chimney (5.9, 2p) to the top of The Bookmark Pinnacle, but we began the day by warming up on Manhole Cover, a fun 5.8 that squeezes through a few blocks at the top.

October 2023: Three great pitches of cragging on a beautiful autumn Sunday.

November 2023: A few bonus pitches after climbing Hot Licks (5.9, 4p) on The Bookend. We climbed Melvin's Wheel Pitch 1 and then toproped The Goose and Sojurn on descent back to the base.

Photos July 30, 2023:
Looking up Manhole Cover (5.8).
Fun climbing.
Steph exiting the manhole. Photo by Nate.
The pitch can continue straight up to the Lower Terrace, but we decided to bust left and rappel back to the base from an anchor at the top of A Night on the Town (11b).
Rappelling back to the base.
Photos October 1, 2023:
Trail junction.
Nate past the meat of Inside Straight. Nice lead Nate!
I got a bit carried away and ended up splitting almost all of it. Getting ready for the winter ahead!
Pitch 1 of Backflip. This is a great pitch. I led it as our warm up for the day.
About to start up Inside Straight. What a fun pitch.
Newt, my trip-reporting buddy.
Nate toproping Bellyflop (5.10+) from the anchor at the top of Pitch 1 of Backflip.
Hip belay at the top of Inside Straight.
I found an exploded cam at the base of the wall. Likely someone had cleaned this out of some route above.
A fall color explosion.
Inside Straight. A classic burly 5.9 Lumpy crack climb.
We climbed three pitches and then hiked out in interest of getting a few things done (errands, laundry, chores, etc). I started to split some wood from some rounds a friend had given me.
Photos November 12, 2023:
Melvin's Wheel Pitch 1. A great long pitch of 5.8 climbing.
Toproping The Goose (5.10b/c). A really fun face climb below the Pitch 1 anchor of Melvin's Wheel.
Anchor at the top of Sojurn (5.11a). This anchor was installed in the 80's.
Nate toproping Sojurn (5.11a) on a glorious November afternoon. I thought that this route seemed difficult for the grade, but Nate cruised right up it.
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