Lumpy Ridge CLIMBING

The Book

Category: Colorado (RMNP)Elev: ~9,000 ftRock Type: Granite
Dates: see main page for all days I've climbed at Lumpy RidgePartners: see main page for all people I have climbed with at Lumpy RidgeTrip Report #s: see main page for all trip report numbers corresponding to reports for Lumpy Ridge

13 Trip Reports

(routes organized west to east, i.e. left to right)

THE BOOK:

October 2022
October 2021
July 2018
November 2019
November 2021, January 2024
September 2022
July 2018
July 2024
July 2018
September 2022
June 2020
October 2022
June 2020, July 2020, November 2021, October 2022

This page is trip reports for The Book at Lumpy Ridge. Go to Lumpy Ridge main page to access trip reports on other formations at Lumpy Ridge.

Table of Contents for this page

(routes organized west to east, i.e. left to right)

The Book

Overlay #1 (of 2) for The Book
(Click image to open larger image file)
Overlay #2 (od 2) for The Book
(Click image to open larger image file)

Isis (5.10b, 2p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: October 30, 2022 (Sun)       Partner: Nate Arganbright

This two-pitch route climbs the impressive dihedral and roof system on the east side of Isis Buttress. The climbing on the second pitch is usually steep for Lumpy Ridge. If this route had bolted anchors (to make it less of a hassle to get off) and saw a bit more traffic to clean it up a bit, it would be just as good as any of the other classic pitches on The Book.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.8. Climb cracks up the slab that forms the east side of the huge dihedral on the left side of Isis Buttress. The gear is a bit tricky at times but generally good. Shortly after a roof, set a belay. This is a long pitch.
Looking up from the base of the route. The route climbs the impressive dihedral system.
The start of Pitch 1. It is possible to start in a brushy crack to the right of this too.
Higher up on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.10b. Stem and jam out the exciting ceiling (crux) that caps the dihedral. Forty feet higher, a steep and excellent hand crack on the left leads to the crest.
Nate embarking on his lead of Pitch 2. He is at the 10b crux of the route.
The steep hand crack that finishes off the route.

Descent:

Traverse left to a tree (stay roped up, it is exposed low 5th) and rappel Pharaoh's Child back to the base of The Book with a single rope. This descent differs from the routes that top out.
Looking up from the top of the second pitch. It looks possible to keep climbing to the top, but the climbing looks none too remarkable.
Looking to the left towards the rappel tree. Getting to the tree involves an exposed low 5th traverse.
Downclimbing to the rap anchor.
Rappel tree.
A tat nest.
Beware of white tat....as the knot indicates the white tat used to be green and probably has baked in the sun long enough to not be safe to hold body weight. Fortunately enough other tat in the tat nest looked strong enough to rappel off of.

Other Photos:

We enjoyed lunch at the base of The Book before hiking out.
Crackers and packaged meat are our lunchtime staple. Nate also likes hot sauce.
Enjoying the sublime location on a fall afternoon.
The joke worked! Or is it a joke...?

Osiris (5.7, 5p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: October 23, 2021 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route is one of the moderate classic routes at Lumpy Ridge. We had planned to climb Pear Buttress (another classic) but there was already a party on route and another party headed towards the base. There were no parties on Osiris (for once!) so we decided to climb that. A very enjoyable route all the way to the top of The Book. (We ended up doing a direct finish so missed out on the standard Pitch 4 of Osiris, but the direct finish had a really nice hand/finger crack on it, and was mostly 5.7 climbing.)

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.6. Climb the obvious chimney in a left-facing dihedral. Belay on a good ledge, or continue up to link with Pitch 2 in a rope-stretching lead.
Looking up from the base of the wall. The first pitch follows the obvious chimney in left-facing dihedral.
Pitch 1 fun.
Looking down while following Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.6 or 5.8. For the 5.6 option, leave the ledge from its right end and follow a stepped dihedral back left to a big tree. For a 5.8 option, leave the ledge from its left end and climb grooves and cracks to the tree.
The 5.8 variation to Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.7. Climb up a prominent right-facing corner (or cracks just to its right), then move right towards two parallel cracks in the headwall above. These cracks are the crux of the route. Belay on the large ledge (Fang Ledge) above.
Pitch 3 follows the obvious right-facing corner and cracks just to its right.

Pitch 4: 

5.7. Several options for this pitch. The standard route starts at the top of the Fang (the pillar resting on Fang Ledge) and climbs a crack upwards. We climbed straight up from the belay at the top of Pitch 3 up a wall with several flaring wide crack/grooves, which was a bit vegetated but had some good climbing and worked as well. The belay met up with the final belay of the George's Tree route.
Note that this photo does not show the standard Pitch 4. Instead, it shows the nice finger-to-hand crack at the start of the direct option for Pitch 4.

Pitch 5: 

5.easy or 5.7. A short pitch finishes the climb. Our direct finish was actually the last pitch (5.7) of George's Tree, while the final pitch for the standard left finish to the route is easier.
Note that this photo does not show the standard Pitch 5. This is the last pitch of George's Tree.

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
View to the west towards Sundance.
Cool tree on the top of The Book.
Cool twisted root on the top of The Book.
Mushroom growing out of downed tree.

George's Tree (5.9, 5p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: July 12, 2018 (Thu)       Partner: George Foster

An adventurous route following flared cracks all the way to the top. Gear is plentiful and climbing is sustained at 5.9.

Approach:  

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
View towards central RMNP from Lumpy. A nice morning. But a few more clouds than yesterday....

Pitch 1: 

5.9. Flared finger and hand crack with a dead tree 20 feet up.
Looking up Pitch 1. You can see the snag in the crack about 20 feet up. George was sad to find that his tree—once alive and located about 20 feet up Pitch 1—was now a dead snag. Apparently the tree that used to be there died in 2014.
The upper half of the pitch. Although flared, it takes good gear.
George following the pitch with his dead snag just below him.

Pitch 2: 

5.8 or 5.10c. Step right to a 10c offwidth or step left and climb flakes to a 5.8 crack.
The 10c option for Pitch 2.
The 5.8 option for Pitch 2. This follows the route Osiris for 50 feet then goes right up a 5.8 crack.
Clouds developing above.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Hand crack over a head-wall to Fang Ledge.
Fun crack climbing on Pitch 3.
As we were climbing, a helicopter was flying back and forth across the ridge carrying loads of water to try to control/put out a small fire on the other side of the ridge.

Pitch 4: 

5.9. Hand crack to a ledge. Or continue on to link with Pitch 5.
George starting up Pitch 4.
Pitch 4 climbs to the base of the final headwall. Pitch 5 is a short pitch to the top. These are easily linked.

Pitch 5: 

5.7. Left-facing corner to the top.
The final corner to the top.

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
Looking towards Longs Peak. We made it off the summit just as it began to rain. Wouldn't want to be on Longs right now...
Elk beside the trail.
Flowers beside the trail.

Fat City (5.10c, 4p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: November 10, 2019 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

The classic 5.10 at the book that tackles the arching roof at its center. 

Nate and I climbed this as the second of an awesome two-route day at Lumpy—the first route of the day had been Romulan Territory.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.8. Climb an obvious crack system in the center of the slab. End at a bolted anchor or easily link with Pitch 2.(we linked P1+P2)
Looking up Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.10c. The crux pitch that has a bit of everything. Delicate moves up a thin crack, an exciting hand traverse, a squeeze up a slot, and pulling over a roof. Awesome!(we linked P1+P2)
The start of Pitch 2, as seen from bolted anchor at top of Pitch 1.
Looking down from belay at top of Pitch 2. The belay is at a small foot stance not far above the roof. We linked Pitches 1 & 2 so Nate is still on Pitch 2 in the photo.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. Lieback a leaning flake/seam, which leads to a ramp and then the Cave. (we linked P3+P4)
Nate near the end of the fun leaning flake/seam on Pitch 3.

Pitch 4: 

HURLEY TRAVERSE. 5.7 or 5.9. There are several options for Pitch 4. We chose to do the Hurley Traverse (via 5.9 direct start) up and right, which is a fun pitch.(we linked P3+P4)
Hurley Traverse. Steep!

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

Pear Buttress (5.8+, 4p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: November 6, 2021 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright
  • Date: January 28, 2024 (Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

November 2021: Finally got around to climbing of Lumpy Ridge's finest (and most popular) routes. We had the entire Book to ourselves. Fall is the best time to climb at Lumpy.

January 2024: A sunny winter day at Lumpy. We had the entire Book to ourselves so we decided to climb the most popular route there.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.8+ (5.7R). Face climb in from the right until it is possible to stem to the flake (twenty feet no pro, 5.7R). Ascend dual cracks above the flake (5.8+) to the Loose Ends belay.(we linked P1+P2)
2021Looking up Pitch 1.
2024Snow at the base of Pitch 1.
2024Crux section on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

5.6. Traverse along a ramp to the left edge of the buttress, up fifteen feet, then back right to a flat belay ledge. This pitch can be linked with Pitch 1 for a 200 foot pitch.(we linked P1+P2)
2021Scott nearing the top of Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

5.8. Tackle the beautiful one-inch crack above which widens to perfect hands. Upon reaching a roof, undercling right (5.7) to a spacious belay ledge. A nicer (and a bit harder at 5.9-) option switches right at an overlap and finishes with a bulge at the tail end of Loose Ends' third pitch.
2021Looking up the splitter of Pitch 3.
2024Nate starting up the splitter.

Pitch 4: 

HURLEY TRAVERSE. 5.7 or 5.9. Climb easily to the Cave. There are several options from here. We chose to do the Hurley Traverse (via 5.9 direct start) up and right, which is a fun pitch.
2021Nate starting up Pitch 4.
2021The Hurley Traverse (5.9 direct start).
2024To the top.

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
2021Natural anchor at the top of the route.
2021A view west along Lumpy Ridge.
2021A view out. What a day!
2021Hiking out with light packs. We left our climbing gear at the base of The Book with plans to return the next day!
2024Natural anchor at the top of the route.
2024A glorious winter day.
2024Bark art.

Link-up: Thindependence + Visual Aids + Loose Ends + Cheap Date + Outlander (5.10c, 1p + 5.10b, 2p + 5.4, 1p + 5.10b, 1p + 5.10c, 1p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: September 20, 2022 (Tue)      Partner: Erika Bannon

An excellent 5- or 6-pitch link-up to the top. Every pitch on this route is superb. The Thindependence pitch is one of the harder 10c pitches I've climbed. It was the last day of summer, with a forecast for warm sunny weather. Erika and I both managed to get the day off work, and had a blast climbing this linkup. We had the entire sea of granite to ourselves.

Approach: 

~1 hour from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
A sea of excellent granite on The Book.

Pitch 1: 

THINDEPENDENCE. 5.10c. Climb the crack.
Erika starting up the pitch in the morning sun.
The crack protects with RPs and small cams.

Pitch 2: 

VISUAL AIDS. 5.10b. This pitch climbs the crack that is just right of and parallels the crack on the second pitch of Loose Ends. This pitch feels like a harder version of George's Tree (flaring fingers rather than hands).
Looking up the pitch.
Looking down while leading.

Pitch 3: 

VISUAL AIDS. 5.8. Climb up through a flake, and then climb up a splitter, joining with Loose Ends at the top of the pitch.
Erika starting up the pitch. The crux of the pitch is the first few moves.
A fun splitter.

Pitch 4: 

LOOSE ENDS. 5.easy. Easy climbing to just down and left from the Cave. This pitch can be linked with the previous pitch.
Easy slabby climbing. We linked this with the last pitch of Visual Aids.

Pitch 5: 

CHEAP DATE. 5.10b. Left leaning finger-crack with slabby feet.
Looking up the start of the pitch.
Higher up on the pitch.

Pitch 6: 

OUTLANDER. 5.10c. Traverse left to a steep, strenuous hand and finger crack up the final headwall.
The money photo of the climb. Sundance in the background.
Nice lead Erika!
Erika finishing off the pitch.

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

Link-up: Loose Ends + Cheap Date + Outlander (5.9, 4p + 5.10b, 1p + 5.10c, 1p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: July 11, 2018 (Wed)       Partner: George Foster

An excellent 6-pitch link-up to the top involving lots of cracks.

Approach:

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
The turnoff to The Book. The trail is very nice and clearly marked.
The Book. (This photo was taken as we hiked out. The sun hit the walls around 11am. We climbed in the early morning since it can be quite hot in the sun at Lumpy.)

Pitch 1: 

LOOSE ENDS. 5.9. Thin layback corner.
Looking up Pitch 1, which starts with a pumpy layback corner with good finger locks and calf pump. (This photo was taken after we climbed the route, when the sun had hit the wall.)
Upper part of Pitch 1.
George following Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

LOOSE ENDS. 5.9. Thin crack up face with insecure jams at the short crux.
George starting off Pitch 2. He's at the crux on insecure finger locks; after the short crux, the crack is cruiser and fun.
Looking down the Pitch 2 crack.

Pitch 3: 

LOOSE ENDS. 5.9. Layback the dihedral.
Pitch 3, fun laybacking.
Looking down Pitch 3.

Pitch 4: 

LOOSE ENDS. 5.easy. Easy climbing to the Cave.
Pitch 4 is 5.easy to the base of the Cave. From here you have several options: climb out of the Cave by one of a few routes or climb Cheap Date + Outlander. We chose the latter since it meant two more pitches of great climbing, at a slightly harder grade than Loose Ends.

Pitch 5: 

CHEAP DATE. 5.10b. Left leaning finger-crack with slabby feet.
Cheap Date is a left leaning fingercrack with great finger locks to hang out on as you fiddle around to try to set gear in a sideways position.
The upper crack on Cheap Date. Sewed it up with yellow aliens, grey C4s, and purple-grey and grey-blue offsets.

Pitch 6: 

OUTLANDER. 5.10c. Traverse left to a steep, strenuous hand and finger crack up the final headwall.
George just below the pumpy crux of Outlander.
Outlander.

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
The view looking towards the heart of RMNP (Longs Peak, etc.)
Looking west along Lumpy Ridge. Sundance Buttress is at the far end.
Horsemint on the trail.

Link-up: J-Crack + Cheap Date + Outlander (5.9 C1 or 5.11c, 4p + 5.10b, 1p + 5.10c, 1p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: July 20, 2024 (Sat)       Partner: Nate Arganbright

J-Crack is one of Lumpy's most popular climbs, whose second pitch climbs an awesome 200-foot finger and hand crack in the shape of a backwards J. I had first climbed J-Crack in July 2018, on my fourth ever day climbing at Lumpy. An excellent 6-pitch link-up to the top of the Book is to climb J-Crack, and tack on two extra 5.10 pitches by finishing with Cheap Date and Outlander. Every pitch on this route is superb. Nate and I enjoyed a Saturday on this climb, in the midst of a July monsoon season where Lumpy was a better choice than alpine. Plus the Book had just opened after being closed for bird closures. This was my 73rd day of climbing at Lumpy.

Approach:

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
The raptor closures had just been lifted for most of the formations at Lumpy.

Pitch 1: 

J-CRACK. 5.7. Easy corner to a nice ledge.
Nate starting up Pitch 1.

Pitch 2: 

J-CRACK. 5.9. Traverse left into the J, and climb up the awesome finger and hand crack. After 140 feet, set an uncomfortable belay in a pod. Or continue and link with the next pitch into an amazing 215 foot lead and avoids a hanging belay.
Fun crack on Pitch 2
Nate following Pitch 2.

Pitch 3: 

J-CRACK. 5.11c (or 5.9 C1 or 5.10a or 5.9). Above the pod, the crack steepens. Here there are 3 options:(1) Climb straight up, 11c or 5.9 C1 on good gear.(2) Set a piece in the crack, downclimb a bit, and face climb right (10a) into an easy groove which you can climb to the top of the crack(3) Face climb left (5.9) to the crack of Visual Aids.We went straight up (Option 1, 5.11c).
Nate contemplating the crux on Pitch 3. He freed it with one hang (placing gear and leading this 11c section is hard!).

Pitch 4: 

J-CRACK. 5.easy. Climb an easy pitch to the Cave. This pitch could be linked with Pitch 3, but if trying to free the 5.11c on Pitch 3, it is ncie for the follower to have a belay just above the crux.
5.easy on Pitch 4.

Pitch 5: 

CHEAP DATE. 5.10b. Left leaning finger-crack with slabby feet.
Cheap Date is one of my favorite pitches of climbing on the Book.

Pitch 6: 

OUTLANDER. 5.10c. Traverse left to a steep, strenuous hand and finger crack up the final headwall.
I didn't take any photos of this pitch on this day, but here is Erika leading this pitch from my 2022 climb of Thindependence-Visual Aids-Loose Ends-Cheap Date-Outlander.

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
Cool tree near the top.
Eroded remnants of a dike. Nate suspects aliens.
Thistle.

J-Crack (5.9 C1 or 5.11c, 4p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: July 22, 2018 (Sun)       Partner: Dow Williams

One of Lumpy's most popular climbs, whose second pitch climbs an awesome 200-foot finger and hand crack in the shape of a backwards J.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.7. Easy corner to a nice ledge.
Looking up Pitch 1.

Pitches 2&3: 

(guidebook lists this as 2 pitches)5.9 C1 (or 5.11c or 5.10a or 5.9). Traverse left into the J, and climb up the awesome finger and hand crack (5.9). For the last 20-30 feet, the crack steepens. Here there are 3 options:(1) Climb straight up, 11c or 5.9 C1 on good gear.(2) Set a piece in the crack, downclimb a bit, and face climb right (10a) into an easy groove which you can climb to the top of the crack(3) Face climb left (5.9) to the crack of Visual Aids.We went straight up (Option 1, 5.9 C1). The guidebook lists this as two pitches. Done as a single pitch, it is an amazing 215 foot lead and avoids a hanging belay.
Dow starting off Pitch 2. The traverse over is fairly easy on a foot ledge level with the belay.
Dow cruising up the crack.
The crack continues up the steepening headwall. Here you can choose to continue straight up (5.11c or 5.9 C1) or se a high piece and traverse right or left.
The crack.
ust a minor scrape, says Dow. Doesn't even hurt.
The crack. The guidebook calls it a "finger crack" but I would call it a "finger and hand crack" since I feel like I did just about as many hand jams as finger jams.

Pitch 4: 

5.7 to 5.10c. Here you have options as well:(1) Climb up and right to a break in the overhang and climb through to easy ground (5.7).(2) Climb up and left to the Cave (5.easy). Exit the Cave in some way:    (a) Hurley Traverse (5.7 or 5.9) which hand traverses rightward out of the cave.    (b) The Cave Exit (5.8) which climbs straight and exits via weird stems and twists.    (c) Continue left onto Cheap Date (10b) + Outlander (10c) for a nice linkup.We chose the Hurley Traverse option, which was a fun choice.
Above the J-Crack pitch, continue easily up to base of cave (or climb right and up).
Hurley Traverse.
Hurley Traverse.
 Dow following the Hurley Traverse.

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

Link-up: The Cavity + J-Crack + Outlander (5.10a, 1p + 5.9 C1 or 5.11c, 2-3p + 5.10c, 2p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: September 28, 2022 (Wed)    Partner: Erika Bannon

J-Crack is one of Lumpy's most popular climbs, whose second pitch climbs an awesome 200-foot finger and hand crack in the shape of a backwards J. I had first climbed J-Crack in July 2018, on my fourth ever day climbing at Lumpy. An excellent 6-pitch link-up to the top of the Book is to climb J-Crack, but tack on three extra 5.10 pitches by starting the route with The Cavity and finishing with Outlander. Every pitch on this route is superb. Erika and I both managed to get the day off work, and enjoyed a gorgeous fall day climbing this route. This was my 47th day of climbing at Lumpy.

Approach: 

~1 hour from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
A yellow aspen. Lumpy is a beautiful place in the fall.

Pitch 1: 

THE CAVITY. 5.10a. Climbs out the right side of a huge crystalline pocket which contains a large tree. Fun and unique climbing.
Erika starting us off.

Pitch 2: 

J-CRACK. 5.9. Traverse left into the J, and climb up the awesome finger and hand crack. After 140 feet, set an uncomfortable belay in a pod. Or continue and link with the next pitch into an amazing 215 foot lead and avoids a hanging belay.
140 feet of crack ahead.
Steph leading the pitch. Photo by Erika.
Looking down while leading.
Erika nearing the top of the pitch.

Pitch 3: 

J-CRACK. 5.9 C1 (or 5.11c or 5.10a or 5.9). Above the pod, the crack steepens. Here there are 3 options:(1) Climb straight up, 11c or 5.9 C1 on good gear.(2) Set a piece in the crack, downclimb a bit, and face climb right (10a) into an easy groove which you can climb to the top of the crack(3) Face climb left (5.9) to the crack of Visual Aids.We went straight up (Option 1, 5.9 C1).
The steep but short 11c section.
Erika leading the crux, C1 style. I tried to free it but got thwarted by one thin move.

Pitch 4: 

J-CRACK. 5.easy. Climb an easy pitch to the Cave. This pitch could be linked with Pitch 3, but if trying to free the 5.11c on Pitch 3, it is ncie for the follower to have a belay just above the crux.
Moderate terrain.

Pitch 5: 

OUTLANDER. 5.10b. Start up the obvious, leaning dihedral ending with an apexed roof, left of Cheap Date. Sustained 5.9 is followed by a thin 5.10b crux, and easier ground leads to a belay ledge at the top of Cheap Date.
Looking up the pitch.
The leaning dihedral ending with an apexed roof.

Pitch 6: 

OUTLANDER. 5.10c. Traverse left to a steep, strenuous hand and finger crack up the final headwall.
Erika leading the final pitch. A great finish to the route.

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
Nearing the end of the scramble descent.

Femp (w/ The Cavity start and Hemp finish) (5.10b, 3p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: June 27, 2020 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This route climbs the beautiful, long crack on the right side of the J-Crack slab. Starting with The Cavity and ending with Hemp adds some high-quality 5.10 climbing.

After this climb, we did a bit of cragging at the base of the Book. Another great day at Lumpy.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Some penstemon.
Penstemon and The Book in the background.

Pitch 1: 

THE CAVITY. 5.5 or 5.10a. For the 5.5 option, follow the line of least resistance to reach a ledge at the base of the obvious crack. For the 10a option, climb The Cavity which goes out the right side of a huge crystalline pocket which contains a large tree. We climbed The Cavity which I would recommend because it was great climbing.
The Cavity.
Giant quartz crystals.

Pitch 2: 

5.9. Climb the crack to a thin corner and stretch the rope out to a stance. This is a long pitch.
Looking up Pitch 2. Fun crack climbing ahead!

Pitch 3: 

HEMP. 5.8 or 5.9+ or 5.10b or 5.11a. There are several variations for this pitch. The original line (5.8) goes up and left from the belay. A 10b variation called Hemp goes straight up the steep corner above the belay. Then above this, there are a few ways to climb through the roof band (Right Exit = 5.7, Pod = 5.11a, Just right of pod = 5.9+). We climbed Hemp and took the 5.7 exit.
Looking up Pitch 3, Hemp finish. The 5.8 finish goes left, and Hemp (which we climbed) goes straight up the steep corner.
The Right Exit starts on the left side of the brown roof. There are some harder finish options that go through the roof.

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

Endless Crack (5.9+, 4p)

THE BOOK
  • Date: October 29, 2022 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

An under-appreciated route to the top of The Book, featuring four pitches of cracks, face, slab, and stemming on excellent rock. Nate and I climbed this route on a glorious fall Saturday. We were only one of two parties on the Book. We took a mid-route intermission to toprope the 140-foot 5.11c pitch of Fender Bender from the top of Pitch 2 of Endless Crack. What a great way to spend a fall day.

Approach: 

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1: 

5.9. Scramble to a bolt beneath a crystalline crack (which does in fact terminate). Traverse right past another bolt at the crack's top to Mission Impossible and its belay. Variation (5.9 R): Go straight up from the top of the crack for twenty feet (5.9 R) to reach a horizontal crack. From here one can foot traverse right to the standard line at its first belay or continue straight up (more 5.9 R) to a belay groove on the left. Follow the groove on the second pitch and join the second line soon after.
Nate leading Pitch 1. The crux of the pitch may be getting into the crack. There is a bolt to protect this part.
Looking up the crack.
The end of the endless crack on Pitch 1. Traverse right across the face (1 bolt protects the traverse) to the corner.
A bolt protecting the face traverse from the end of the crack to the corner.

Pitch 2: 

5.8. Cross a slab left and reach a fist crack, then work up to the second belay on Femp.
The splitter crack on Pitch 2.
A view down while leading the crack.
Nate following the top part of the pitch. This photo was taken from the belay at the top of the pitch.
Rope management.
A bomber hex placement at the belay anchor.

Pitch 3: 

5.9. The diamond shaped slab on the right is Kite Slab. Enter a thin crack on its left margin, maneuver around a small pine, and continue to a belay.
Nate embarking on Pitch 3.
Excellent finger crack on Pitch 3.

Pitch 4: 

5.9+. Climb to a slot in the roof band that caps the right side of the Book and pull through a wedged flake. Continue to the top of the Cave and the beginning of the descent.
Looking up the 5.9+ start of Pitch 4. This was my lead. I thought it was great.

Descent: 

To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
(other trip reports for The Book may have more photos of the descent)
(no photos)

Other Photos: 

We checked out the impressive Renaissance Wall on the left side of the Book before hiking out.
The towering walls of Renaissance Wall. This wall has some of Lumpy's hardest routes (5.13's).
We had grilled bison burgers for dinner. Yum!

Cragging at The Book (5.9-5.11d, 20 pitches)

THE BOOK
  • Date: June 27, 2020 (Sat)       Partner: Nate Arganbright
  • Date: July 3, 2020 (Fri)      Partners: Nate Arganbright & Shawn May
  • Date: November 6, 2021 (Sat)      Partners: Nate Arganbright & Scott Kimball
  • Date: November 7, 2021 (Sun)      Partner: Nate Arganbright
  • Date: November 13, 2021 (Sat)      Partner: Nate Arganbright
  • Date: October 29, 2022 (Sat)      Partner: Nate Arganbright 
  • Date: October 30, 2022 (Sun)      Partner: Nate Arganbright 

Routes (June 27): Endless Crack Pitch 1 (5.9, 1p), Mission Impossible Pitch 1 (5.10a, 1p), Mission Accomplished (5.11a, 1p), Fascist Drill in the West (5.11b, 1p)

Routes (July 3): Road Kill (5.10b, 1p), Living Dead (5.11b, 2p), Dead Boy Direct (5.11d, 1p)

Routes (Nov 6): Loose Ends Pitch 1 (5.9, 1p), Thinstone (5.9, 1p), George's Tree Pitch 1 (5.9, 1p)

Routes (Nov 7): The 44 (5.8, 2p), Fat City Pitch 1 (5.8, 1p), Howling at the Wind Pitch 1 (5.9, 1p), Stretch Marks (5.11a, 1p)

Routes (Nov 13): Pear Buttress Pitches 1+2 (5.8+, 1p)

Routes (Oct 29): Fender Bender (5.11c, 1p)

Routes (Oct 30): Thindependence (5.10c, 1p), Pear Buttress Pitch 2 (5.6, 1p)

June 27, 2020: Nate and I had just climbed Femp and decided to tack on some more pitches. I led up Endless Crack Pitch 1 and then we were able to toprope the other three routes from the anchor.

July 3, 2020: Nate, Shawn, and I spent half a day cragging in the Book Binding area. We climbed three excellent long routes.

November 6, 2021: It was one of those warm and sunny fall days at Lumpy. After Pear Buttress, it was still too early and too nice to leave, so we hung out and climbed a few more great crack pitches.

November 7, 2021: Nate and I had such a good day at The Book on Saturday, that we returned in Sunday to enjoy another beautiful fall day day climbing on sunny granite. We climbed five great pitches. I lead 3 of them, which I was pretty psyched about since they were some of my most confident leads since becoming quite sick with COVID two months previous.

November 13, 2021: On this Saturday, Nate and I climbed one pitch (Pitches 1+2 of Pear Buttress) before rappelling and hiking out. Fifty mile per hour winds are just a bit too much for climbing comfort.

October 29, 2022: While climbing Endless Crack (5.9+, 4p), we took a mid-route intermission to toprope the 140-foot 5.11c pitch of Fender Bender.

October 30, 2022: While waiting for the sun to hit Isis (5.10b, 2p), we climbed Thindependence (5.10c, 1p) and Pear Buttress Pitch 2 (5.6, 1p), and rappeled back to the ground from the chain anchor at the top of the second pitch of Pear Buttress.

Photos June 27, 2020:
Endless Crack Pitch 1.
Nate climbing up Endless Crack Pitch 1. The traverse over to the corner is the crack becomes not so endless.
Nate on the final stretch of Endless Crack Pitch 1, which shares the finish with Mission Impossible Pitch 1.
Looking up Mission Impossible and Mission Accomplished.
Nate cruising up a toprope lap on Fascist Drill in the West.
Pretty purple flower.
Photos July 3, 2020:
Nate climbing Road Kill to Living Dead in the corridor below Dead Boy and Living Dead.
Shawn climbing Road Kill.
Shawn climbing Road Kill.
Nate leading Living Dead.
Photos November 6&7&13, 2021:
Loose Ends Pitch 1. There is an anchor at the top of the corner so this makes for a nice pitch to add to the day.
George's Stump. (What remains of the namesake of George's Tree.)
Nate following Pitch 1 of Howling at the Wind.
Nate leading Thinstone. There is an anchor at the top so this makes for another nice pitch to add to the day.
Pitch 1 of The 44.
Nate leading Stretch Marks. Looking up from the base of the pitch. The route climbs the thin 5.11a crack system. I was impressed with this lead since I found the RP-protected first half of the pitch to be quite desperate just to follow.
Colorful Ponderosa.
Pitch 2 of The 44.
Ponderosa.
Grass lit by the afternoon sun on the hike out. Fall is such a beautiful season at Lumpy Ridge.
Looking up the splitter of George's Tree Pitch 1. There is an anchor at the top so this makes for yet another nice pitch to add to the day.
Nate on Pitch 2 of The 44. (As we planned, I lowered from the bolt at the top of the pitch, so my belay was level with the start of the pitch.)
Tree shadows.
Looking down George's Tree Pitch 1.
Pitch 1 of Howling at the Wind. I love a good corner climb.
Shadow fun.
Photos October 29&30, 2022:
Looking up Fender Bender (5.11c, 140'), which we toproped from the top of Pitch 2 of Endless Crack (5.9+, 4p).
Nate cruising up Fender Bender.
One of only four bolts on Fender Bender. This would be a heady lead. Nate has led it twice.
Nate cruising up Thindependence (5.10c, 1p). A tricky lead for the grade. As usual, Nate cruised up it.
Sewing up Thindependence with RPs and small offset cams.
Rappelling from the chain anchor at the top of the second pitch of Pear Buttress.
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