devil's head CLIMBING

Category: Colorado (South Platte)Elev: ~9,000 ftRock Type: Granite
Dates: Oct 2022(x1 day), Sept 2023(x4 days)Partner: Nate Arganbright
Trip Report #: 592(this trip report number corresponds to the first time I climbed at Devil's Head and established this page on my website)

List of Climbs I've Done & 1 Trip Report & Some Photos 

Photo Trip Report for 

Devil's Head is a serene climbing area on the slopes of Devil's Head Mountain in the South Platte. The crags face south, west, or east and overlook Pike's Peak with all the rest of the Rampart Range hills spread out in unbroken splendor as far as the eye can see. The rock is a fine-grain granite, featured with roofs, cracks, edges, and flakes, offering a high density of excellent, exciting face climbing. Most of the routes are bolt-protected sport climbing, although there are a scattering crack climbs. The emphasis in climbing is largely on the upper 5.11 and 5.12 range, but there are also more moderate and more difficult routes.

The first time I climbed at Devil's Head was on a nice fall weekend in October 2021, when Nate and I enjoyed a weekend of climbing and camping. On this trip we climbed one of the longer routes at Devil's Head: Revelation Route, a 5.11, 7-pitch, fully-bolted climb on Devil's Head Rock. We really liked the area and have plans to return for more weekend cragging and camping.

On this page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done at Devil's Head. I've also included my trip report for Revelation Route, and at the end of the page I have random photos from subsequent days of cragging at Devil's Head.

list of climbs i've done at Devil's Head

Devil's Head

Trip Report for Revelation Route

A trip report for the Revelation Route at Devil's Head Rock. 

Revelation Route (5.11a/b, 7p, sport) 

DEVIL'S HEAD ROCK (SIN CITY AREA)
  • Date: October 22, 2022 (Sat)     Partner: Nate Arganbright

This is one of the longest routes at Devil's head, featuring 7 fully-bolted pitches of varied climbing.

Approach

2nd

~20 minutes from parking on Jackson Creek Road. Jackson Creek Road is off Rampart Range Road.

Driving towards Devil's Head Rock on Jackson Creek Road.
Trailhead.

Pitch 1

5.8, 5 bolts

Climb the 3-foot wide chimney.

Pitch 1 chimney.
Pitch 1 chimney.
A view out from the chimney.

Pitch 2

5.9, 11 bolts

From the anchors, trend up and left with a short crux soon after the anchors and another crux lay backing higher up the pitch.

Looking up Pitch 2.
Nate starting up Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.10+, 12 bolts

Climb up an easy slab to the base of the 200 foot tall headwall. Mantel to get yourself established below the crux. Traverse slightly left and up for more continuous, excellent face climbing to a semi-hanging belay.

Nate leading Pitch 3.
Engaging 5.10 face climbing on excellent rock.

Pitch 4

5.9, 11 bolts

Climb up through more crimps, sidepulls, and balancy moves to get to an airy traverse to the right.

Looking up Pitch 4.

Pitch 5

5.11a/b, 12 bolts

This is the crux of the route! Powerful, elegant, varied, airy, and continuous. Climb straight up from the anchor and up through incuts, underclings, laybacks, and overhanging crimps.

Nate starting up Pitch 5. A high-quality pitch. Nice on-sight Nate!

Pitch 6

5.5, 4 bolts

Climb up to the ledge past a big tree, and then climb up and right up easy terrain to the next set of anchors. It is possible to continue and link with the next pitch.

Pitch 6.

Pitch 7

5.6, 7 bolts

Climb up a short wall trending to the left. Climb the arete to the summit. This pitch is easily linked with Pitch 6.

Pitch 7.
Anchor at the top of Pitch 7.

Descent

From the top of the route, make one rappel to the west, then scramble back down along the base of Recovery Wall. From the top of Pitch 5, rappel the route with a single rope.

View.
The rappel anchor from the top. One rappel to the west.
Looking back at the descent along the base of Recovery Wall.
Bolt count for the pitches.

More photos

Some random photos from other days of cragging at Devil's Head.

Color coded by area:
Jackson Creek Sector (Devil's Head Rock, Recovery Wall)     West Valley Sector (The Arena, Crag Ranch, Starcastle, The Headstone)     Workman's Wall Sector (The Outpost, Workman's Wall)

(First trip to Devil's Head - same trip as Revelation Route)

Date: October 22, 2022 (Sat)      Partner: Nate Arganbright     Climbed at: Devil's Head Rock, Recovery Wall

For the weekend, Nate and I decided to check out Devil's Head. On Saturday, we climbed Revelation Route, a 7-pitch, fully-bolted, 5.11 route on Devil's Head Rock. We had planned to climb at The Starcastle on Sunday, but the 40mph gusts caused us to abort our plans. I spent my Sunday doing errands.

1. Safety Meeting (5.10a), a fun bonus pitch we did on our hike down along Recovery Wall after climbing The Revelation (5.11a/b, 7p, sport) on Devil's Head Rock.
2. Looking down while leading Safety Meeting (5.10a) on Recovery Wall.
3. Cat food and crackers for lunch!
4. Nate likes hot sauce on his.
5. Napping at camp after a fun morning of climbing The Revelation (5.11a/b, 7p, sport) on Devil's Head Rock.
6. There are several nice campsites along Rampart Range Road.
7. Reading in the tent at night.
8. Dinner on Friday night: Grilled sandwich for Nate, cinnamon roll oatmeal for me. Yum.
9. Location of our camp on Rampart Range Road.
10. The Little Buddy heater really heats up the canvas tent nicely. Essential for these cold dark evenings.
11. Nate's breakfast: maple and brown sugar cream of wheat with bacon jerky pieces. A delicious savory and sweet breakfast to start off the day.
12. Dinner on Saturday night: Nate's dinner was a "breakfast ramen" (ramen+1 egg+bacon jerky+cheese+green onion), and mine was maple and brown sugar oatmeal.
13. The lookout is on top of the hill. I took this photo as we drove out, foregoing our Sunday climbing plans because of the 40mph gusts. Someday I want to hike up to this lookout (I am fascinated by fire lookouts).
14. Fee station. Best to pick up a fee envelope here on the drive in, since it's quite far from most of the campsites along Rampart Range Road.
Date: September 16&17, 2023 (Sat&Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright     Climbed at: The Arena, Crag Ranch, Starcastle

Since our first trip to Devil's Head to climb Revelation Route, Nate and I had tried to return to Devil's Head, but we were thwarted by weather (fall) and Spring road closure (spring). Finally, a year after our first visit, we returned for a weekend of cragging. This time we had the guidebook too. We enjoyed a weekend of cragging and camping and hope to return soon for more of the same!

15. The approach for the areas we climbed at (West Valley sector near the lookout) started on the popular trail to the Devil's Head Mountain Lookout. We checked out the lookout on the way to our first day of climbing.
16. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout. 
17. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout.
18. The Devil's Head Mountain Lookout is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The base of the tower can be reached via the Devils Head Trail, a 1.4 mile long route with an elevation gain of 865'.  The lookout is situated at 9,748' elevation. The site is historically significant for its long association with conservation efforts of the US Forest Service in Colorado. In 1907 the newly created Forest Service planned seven principal lookouts along the Front Range of the Rockies between New Mexico and Wyoming.  Devils Head was selected to be the location of one of these lookouts. It was one of only four lookouts that were eventually established; three in Colorado, and one in Wyoming.  In addition to Devils Head, there were Twin Sisters near Estes Park, Squaw Peak near Mt. Evans, and Medicine Bow Peak in Wyoming. The site has been in continuous use since 1912 and is the last full time lookout in Colorado. Reference.
19. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout.
20. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout.
21. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout.
22. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout.
23. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout.
24. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout.
25. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout history.
26. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout history.
27. Approach to the Arena, Crag Ranch, etc. This gate is just below the stairs for the Devil's Head Mountain Lookout.
28. Ceres (5.10a, sport) at The Arena. An okay route. There are better here.
29. Titus (5.10d, sport) at The Arena. Another okay route, but better than it looks. 
30. Pitch 1 of High Plains Poser (5.10d, 2p) at The Crag Ranch. This is a great two-pitch sport climb.
31. Pitch 2 of High Plains Poser (5.10d, 2p) at The Crag Ranch. This is a great two-pitch sport climb.
32. North 40 (5.11a, sport) at The Crag Ranch. This was a fun pitch on good rock.
33. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout as seen from the top of The Crag Ranch.
34. Devil's Head Mountain Lookout as we hiked back out in the late afternoon.
35. Our camp at the campground. This was a pleasant place to camp.
36. Enjoying a campfire.
37. Nate warmed his dinner (Tastey Bites and naan) by the fire.
38. Enjoying a campfire.
39. Nate enjoyed his last two Coffee Crisp from Canada.
40. Oatmeal for breakfast.
41. Zinn Overlook.
42. The Citadel (5.10b, sport) at Starcastle. A great warm-up at this crag.
43. Lady of the Lake (5.11b, sport) at Starcastle. A five-star face climb. Nice lead Nate!
44. Lady of the Lake (5.11b, sport) at Starcastle. Great face climbing ahead.
45. Featured rock on Lady of the Lake (5.11b, sport) at Starcastle.
46. Towering red granite cliffs at Starcastle. The rock here is really good.
47. To the Fire Wind (5.11c, trad) at Starcastle. This was our last and my favorite route of the trip. Another nice lead by Nate.
48. Roots on the trail.
49. A Whopper hits the spot after a weekend of climbing. A good Whopper is hard to beat.
Date: Sepember 23&24, 2023 (Sat&Sun)     Partner: Nate Arganbright     Climbed at: The Headstone, The Outpost, Workman's Wall

Back the following weekend for more.

50. Camping.
51. Approach to The Headstone goes past Zinn Overlook. 
52. Fall colors on the trail.
53. The Headstone.
54. Pitch 1 of Remote Control (2p, 10a, sport) at The Headstone.
55. Pitch 2 of Remote Control (2p, 10a, sport) at The Headstone. Kind of a heady pitch. Nice lead Nate!
56. Topaz Pitch 1 (5.10d, sport) at The Headstone. This was a great 150-foot pitch of climbing, reminiscent of Cochise Stronghold climbing. Another nice lead by Nate.
57. Pitch 1 of The Alienist (3p, 10b, trad) at The Headstone. 
58. Pitch 2 of The Alienist (3p, 10b, trad) at The Headstone. One of my favorite pitches of the weekend.
59. Pitch 3 of The Alienist (3p, 10b, trad) at The Headstone. A fun finish.
60. Starcastle across the way. Can also see the Devil's Head Lookout.
61. Devil's Head Lookout.
62. Nate made himself flatbread pizzas for dinner. Yum.
63. Nate made himself flatbread pizzas for dinner. Yum.
64. Nate made himself flatbread pizzas for dinner. Yum.
65. Enjoying coffee and Stephen King in the morning.
66. Beginning of approach to Workmen's Wall / Radio Head area.
67. Flagging on approach to Workmen's Wall / Radio Head area.
68. Trip Wire (10a, mixed) at The Outpost.
69. Thin Red Line (5.11a, sport) at The Outpost. Nice lead Nate. I thought this route was the hardest of the trip.
70. Snafu (5.9+, mixed) at The Outpost.
71. Broken Arrow (5.11b, sport) at The Outpost. 
72. Groiner (5.10c, sport) at Workman's Wall. Our last route of the day before beginning the drive home. Driving during a sunny fall afternoon isn't our favorite thing to do...making us wish a bit that we were climbing at Lumpy for the day....
73. The previous weekend we had concluded that a Whopper is hard to beat. This weekend Nate added bacon.
74. I arrived home to a massacre. I apprecaiate that Newt contains it to the bathtub.
Date: Month Day, Year (Day)     Partner: Nate Arganbright     Climbed at: 

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previous and next adventures

(October 2022: Revelation Route and first time cragging at Devil's Head)