Pagoda Mtn

Category: Colorado (RMNP)Summit Elev: 13,497 ftRock Type: Granite
Date: September 28, 2023 (Thu)Trip Report #: 647Partner: Anothony Meyer

Route: Crescent Ridge (aka South Ridge) (5.6, ~15 miles round trip)

A goregous fall day in the mountains.

Intro

Pagoda Mountain is the 7th highest summit in RMNP. The summit can be accessed from multiple directions: from the north via Glacier Gorge (the route to do from this direction is the North Buttress (5.7, 6p)); from the east and west via the Chiefs Head to Longs Peak ridge (I had crossed over the summit this way twice, on the Walk in the Park / The Great Wheel—a one-day traverse that circles Glacier Gorge—and the Estes Skyline High Route—when Nate and I traversed the entire skyline of RMNP in three days), and from the south via Wild Basin. The best route out of Wild Basin is the sweeping Crescent Ridge.  Also known as South Ridge and The Scythe, Crescent Ridge climbs an aesthetic ridgeline from Keplingler Lake all the way to the summit of Pagoda, on high-quality granite and involving a few pitches of 5.5-5.6 along the way. The approach is rather long: 6.5 miles to the base of the route, half of which is cross-country. The Crescent Ridge sounded like a fun day of exercise in the mountains, with a little climbing, a little scrambling, a summit, and several miles of goregous views. So I put it on my list.

After a cool and wet summer, the fall of 2023 arrived with a stretch of indigenous peoples summer days. Anthony Meyer—my dad had been his advisor when he was doing is graduate studies at Trinity Western, and we had conversed about climbing together for several years but never made it happen—was in the area. I was able to take one day off of work to join him on a mountain advenutre in RMNP. I proposed the Crescent Ridge of Pagoda. Anthony was on board. 

We left the trailhead just after 5 am. There was an inversion going on, so we started out in balmy 60°F temperatures and the temperatures dropped to mid-40's during the hike up. Once the sun came out the temperatures were downright pleasant for the rest of the day. I even wore shorts. The golds and reds of the early fall colors made it a truely spectacular time to be in the area. The climb was a blast.

The adventure took us 12 hours 43 minutes hours car-to-car. I love long days of movement in the mountains.

The followng page gives a trip report for our early-fall car-to-car of Crescent Ridge on Pagoda. Thanks Anthony for the enjoyable company!

Route Overlay

Photo taken Sept 2023.
Photo taken June 2023.

Time Stats

Times:
  • Leave Trailhead: 5:10 am
  • Sandbeach Lake: 6:59 am
  • Base of Crescent Ridge: 9:15-9:34 am
  • Pagoda summit: 11:50-12:40 am
  • Sandbeach Lake: 3:45-4:11 pm
  • Trailhead: 5:53 pm
Splits:
  • Trailhead to Sandbeach Lake: 1:49
  • Sandbeach Lake to base of Crescent Ridge: 2:16
  • Base of Crescent Ridge to Pagoda summit: 2:16
  • Pagoda summit to Sandbeach Lake: 3:05
  • Sandbeach Lake to Trailhead: 1:42
  • Total car-to-car (includes breaks): 12:43

Photos

Approach

2nd

Hike the Sandbeach Lake trail 4.5 miles to Sandbeach Lake. Walk west along the beach, cross the inlet to the lake, and find a good path that leads northwest into the forest. Follow the path, interrupted by winfall, up a ravine to where it fades in a steep grassy slope; look for cairns. Head north out of the ravine and arrive at a field of large boulders. Skirt along the left edge of the boulders to where the forest closes and a faint path leads to a second boulderfield below the north side of Mt. Orton. Again, skirt along the left edge of the boulders and pick up a path that runs northwest through a series of openings in the forest. Stay close to Mount Orton. Eventually gain a long meadow that runs without difficulty along the left edge of the valley, all the way to the Crescent Ridge of Pagoda. 

Fall colors on the approach.
Sandbeach Lake.
Fall colors on lower east shoulder of Mt. Orton. Pagoda in distance.
Approaching Pagoda on the lower east shoulder of Mt. Orton just above Hunters Creek.
Getting closer...
View back down as we neared the base of the roped climbing.
Keplinger Lake.

Lower Ridge

5.5-5.6, 3-4 pitches

Climb the beautiful, clean buttress staying close to the ridge for three or four moderate pitches, following knobs and crack systems. Most of the climbing is 5.4 or easier. The 5.5-5.6 crux is near the top of the last pitch, just before topping out on the initial buttress. 

Lower ridge.
Start of Pitch 1 of the roped climbing.
Pitch 2. We linked this with Pitch 1 with some simulclimbing.
View down while climbing Pitch 2.
Anthony nearing the end of Pitch 2.
Anthony starting up Pitch 3.
Great rock and fun crack climbing on Pitch 3.
Steph nearing the top of Pitch 3. Keplinger Lake below. Photo by Anthony.
Fixed cam just below the 5.6 crux section. 

Upper Ridge

3rd-4th, several hundred feet

After topping out on the initial buttress, scramble up to the base of an upper white-and-pink slab crossed by a darker diagonal band. Enjoy hundreds of feet of scenic 3rd-class scrambling on the ridge crest as you approach an upper headwall. Make a 4th class move or two. Bypass the headwall on the left by a shadowy, exposed ramp. 

Above the headwall, several hundred feet of talus take you to the summit.

View of the upper ridge, taken from the top of the roped climbing on the lower ridge. 
Short 4th class section on the upper ridge.
Anthony cruising up the short 4th class section on the upper ridge.
View back down Crescent Ridge while climbing the upper ridge. Keplinger Lake below.

Top!

Yay! Enjoy the views from the 7th highest summit in RMNP.

Anthony doing a hand stand on the summit.
Summit photo. Photo taken by Anthony.
View towards Chiefs Head.
Fresh snow on the north side of Pagoda.
View of Longs Peak.
View of the Palisades on the south side of Longs Peak. Someday I want to climb here.

Descent

Scramble

The easiest return to the base and Sandbeach Lake is to descend the Northeast Ridge to the Pagoda-Longs Col. Go down a steep, loose talus gully to the south (the South Gully). Reverse the approach hike back to Sandbeach Lake and the trailhead.

Descending the South Gully. This would probably be a bit more pleasant in early summer when it is full of snow, but with early summer snow the approach in Hunters Creek drainage could be less pleasant. Pick your battle....
Descending the South Gully. 
Steep cliffs on the west side of the South Gully. 
Steep cliffs on the east side of the South Gully. 
Steep cliffs on the east face of Pagoda. There are a couple of 5.11 routes on this face that are rarely climbed.
A view up towards the Palisades. Really want to climb up there...
Fall colors at the headwaters of Hunters Creek.
Fall colors at the headwaters of Hunters Creek.
Fall colors at the headwaters of Hunters Creek.
A whistle pig.
Jointing.
A pretty waterfall we happened upon.
Yellow aspen leaves.
I would not advise wearing shorts in upper Hunters Creek.
View back towards Pagoda and Longs on the hike out via Hunters Creek.
A bed of pinecones.
Anthony nabbed a rejuvinating dip in Sandbeach Lake on the hike out.
Instant coffee with honey for the hike out. Now that's hiking in style.
Yellow aspen leaves on the trail. Yep, it feels like fall now.
Newt helping with the trip report.
Newt, my trip-reporting buddy.

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