Cochise Christmas 2023

Other trips to Cochise:
Cochise Christmas 2015    •    Cochise Christmas 2020    •    Cochise Christmas 2021     •    Cochise Christmas 2022     •    Cochise Christmas 2023
Category: ArizonaElev: ~5,000-6,500 ftRock Type: Granite
Date: Dec 16-30 2023Trip Report #: 664Partner: Nate Arganbright

Winter Break at Cochise Stronghold

TRAD ROCK (ISLE OF YOU AND ENVIRONS)
THE SHEEPSHEAD
THE MUTTONHEAD
THE SHEEPSHEAD
THE SHEEPSHEAD, BARNYARD WALL
MT. CHAKTAR
MT. CHAKTAR
WHALE DOME
WARPATH DOME, CRACKATHON
WARPATH DOME
RAD ROCK (ISLE OF YOU AND ENVIRONS)
THE SHEEPSHEAD
THE SHEEPSHEAD, BARNYARD WALL
THE MUTTONHEAD
THE SHEEPSHEAD, BARNYARD WALL
THE SHEEPSHEAD
THE MUTTONHEAD
THE SHEEPSHEAD
THE SHEEPSHEAD
THE SHEEPSHEAD, BARNYARD WALL
THE SHEEPSHEAD
THE SHEEPSHEAD
MT. CHAKTAR
MT. CHAKTAR

The fourth year in a row: Christmas at Cochise. This time to the West Side!

Table of Contents for this page

Intro

For Christmas holidays 2020 and 2021 and 2022, Nate and I had climbed at Cochise Stronghold for two weeks (click here for the 2020 and 2021 and 2022 trip reports). We didn't want these enjoyable trips to end. Up to this point we had climbed primarily on the east side, making the 1 hour drive to the west side only a few times. We felt like we had climbed most of the routes we wanted to climb on the east side, and the west side felt like a giant playground of new routes. So despite our slight sorrow in not returning to our beloved Airbnb on the east side, we booked a nice Airbnb on the west side for the following year (Christmas 2023) and began looking forward to the new adventures to be had. For Christmas 2023, we planned on a full 2 weeks.

When we had first started coming to Cochise, I was working on a PhD at CU Boulder, and enjoyed the very much needed winter break with no pressing duties. But as of this trip report, I am working as a data analyst for a methane gas monitoring company, and my role in monitoring and diagnosing system problems is too essential to take off a full two weeks. So as a compromise I worked out a deal to work for 4 hours a day, split between the early morning and evening on either end of a day of climbing. Fortunately the Airbnb was a great place to work, and I figured working offset the costs a bit and gave a few extra PTO days available for long weekends in the summer. 

The weather during our trip was pretty good. It started off warm, with a couple of days in the 70's. We relished climbing in t-shirts. Midway through the trip, we had a couple of days of rain, forcing one complete rest day followed by a 2-pitch day. Then the weather was back to sunny skies, and slightly cooler but still warm temperatures. We managed to climb every day but one during our trip.

Our stats: 14 days of climbing, 23 multipitch routes plus numerous single pitch routes, and 100 pitches of climbing ranging from 5.8-5.11-. Nate led every single pitch, which is quite impressive. We climbed 7 of the formations: The Sheepshead, The Muttonhead, Mt. Chaktar, Whale Dome, Warpath Dome, Trad Rock, Rad Rock. It was a phenomenal trip to the west side.

We had both Tanya Bok's guidebook and Geir Hundal's guidebook for the area. I really appreciate both of these guidebooks for their wealth of route information and area detail. I highly recommend these books for any trip to the Stronghold. I am aware enough of the underlying controversy that surrounds Cochise route development to know that praising both guidebooks in one sentence would be a local rarity, but alas I am not a local.

The following page gives our itinerary and a nice photo overlay and photos for each of the climbs we did. I had given Nate my extra camera setup, so I included a mix of both his and my photos to give an even more complete tour of our adventures. Combined, we took a trip total of 934 photos (235 of these were Nate's). Nate took lots of great photos.

Enjoy!

(Note: There are a lot of photos on this page, so some may take awhile to load. Hitting refresh may help if images don't seem to show up.)

Weather forecast heading into our trip: pleasant temperatures and calm skies. We lucked out for winter on a strong El Nino year.

Itinerary

Fri, Dec 15
drive
Leave Estes Park, Colorado and drove all the way to Truth or Consequences, New Mexico, where we stayed in a cheap motel for the night (~660 miles, ~12 hours driving from Estes Park to Truth or Consequences).
Sat, Dec 16
Climbs1abcdefg(7p)
Make the remainder of the drive to the west side of Cochise Stronghold (~270miles, ~5 hours driving from Truth or Consequences to Cochise, for a total of ~930miles, 17 hours driving from Estes Park to Cochise). We arrived at noon. It was a warm sunny day, so we wanted to do soome climbing. We decided to spend the afternoon at Trad Rock, which had a short approach to a bunch of bolted single-pitch climbs. We climbed seven pitches: Isle of You (5.10-, 1p), Stone Woman (5.10-, 1p), Cochise Toecheese (5.10-, 1p), Rise and Shine, Cupcake (5.10, 1p), Now It's My Turn (5.10, 1p), OK Corral (5.8, 1p), and Hell in a Hand-basket (5.10+, 1p). Then we went and got settled into our Airbnb. 
Sun, Dec 17
Climbs2&3(8p)
Climb Phony Pony (5.10-, 5p) on The Sheepshead followed by Tour Buses Welcome (5.10, 3p) on The Muttonhead. This was a gorgeous 74° day with deep blue cloudless skies, forecasted to be the warmest day of the trip. A great day of climbing at the start of our trip!
Mon, Dec 18
Climbs4&5ab(10p)
Climb Ides of Middlemarch (5.10-, 5-6p) on The Sheepshead followed by Animal Husbandry (5.10, 2p) and Bruise the Rooster (5.10-, 2p) on Barnyard Wall on The Sheepshead. A great day with sunny skies and 10 pitches of climbing!
Tue, Dec 19
Climbs6&7(9p)
Climb We Expect You (5.9, 4p) and Royal Scam (5.11-, 5p) on Mt. Chaktar. A nice two-route day to a new formation. A tad overcast but very comfortable climbing temperatures.
Wed, Dec 20
Climb8(6p)
Climb Moby Dick (5.8, 5-6p)  on Whale Dome. It rained and hailed on Pitches 2, 3 and 4 but we perservered to the top. We had planned to climb a second route (Dem Bones 5.10) on Whale Dome but decided not to be too greedy on a marginal day.
Thu, Dec 21
Climbs9ab&10(5p)
First day of winter. Our main objective was Warpath (5.9, 3p) on Warpath Dome. I thought the route was rather exciting and unique, but Nate thought it was boring! While waiting for sun to hit Warpath, we climbed Fax Crack (5.9-, 1p) and Driven by Fear (5.8, 1p) on Crackathon at Warpath Dome. 
Fri, Dec 22
No climbing
We woke up to rain. So it was a forced rest day. We spent the morning working on a puzzle (me) and playing video games (Nate), and drove to nearby Tombstone in the afternoon. Nate got a the Crystal Palace burger at the Crystal Palace, and then we walked around town a bit before driving over to the Family Dollar and stocking up on the next week's worth of groceries. We also stopped in at the Trump Store, quite the spectacle on the edge of town. 
Sat, Dec 23
Climbs11ab(2p)
The weather still looked marginal and Nate wanted to do some hardder climbing, and voted for a day of hard cragging at Rad Rock. Unfortunately it clouded up and began to rain as Nate was leading our third pitch, so climbed only two pitches: Unnamed (5.110- 1p) on Upper Rad Rock and Fire in the Hole (5.10, 1p) on Lower Rad Rock.
Sun, Dec 24
Climbs12&13(8p)
We woke up to low wet fog, and spent the first part of the morning doubting we would actually be able to climb. But the forecast called for sunny skies in the afternoon, so mid morning we decided to hike up to The Sheepshead. Just as we arrived, the fog lifted. A Christmas present. We climbed The Last Roubdup (5.10+, 6p) on The Sheepshead followed by Bantam of the Opera (5.10+, 2p) on Barnyard Wall on The Sheepshead. Not bad for a day we though we would get in no climbing! The wind had a bite to it, and this was probably the coldest day of our trip so far.
Mon, Dec 25
Climbs14ab&15(7p)
A splitter sunny 50° day. Merry Christmas! We climbed Have You Seen It? (5.10, 2p), and In Water There is Life (5.11-, 3p) on The Muttonhead followed by Poultry Emulsion (5.10, 2p) on Barnyard Wall on The Sheepshead. A wonderful way to spend Christmas.
Tue, Dec 26
Climb16(5p)
Another sunny day. We climbed Unmitigated Audacity (5.11-, 5p) on The Sheepshead, probably the hardest and most sustained route we have climbed up The Sheepshead yet. We had planned to climb a second route, but Nate's finger pads needed the afternoon off (he had led 67 pitches up to this point!); so we drove to the Family Dollar in Tombstone and stocked up on groceries for the remainder of our trip.
Wed, Dec 27
Climbs17&18(8p)
Another sunny day. We climbed In Vino Veritas (5.11-, 3p) on The Muttonhead followed by Get the Flock Out of Here (5.10+, 5p) on The Sheepshead. A great day with several 5.10 to 5.11- pitches.
Thu, Dec 28
Climbs19&20(7p)
After the previous couple of day's sucesses on 5.11- routes, we decided to climb another 5.11- route to the top of The Sheepshead. We climbed Mad Cow Disease (5.11-, 5p) on The Sheepshead followed by Great Pig in the Sty (5.11-, 2p) on Barnyard Wall on The Sheepshead. 
Fri, Dec 29
Climbs21&22(11p)
By this point we had climbed most of the routes to the top of The Sheepshead, except for the more obscure routes. One non-obscure route we had not yet climbed was The Tombstoe Stripper (5.10-, 6p); so we climbed that. We were now at 88 pitches for the trip, and 100 was in sight, so we did a quick ascent of Ewephoria (5.8+, 5p), which we had climbed the previous year but was worth climbing again. We ended the day with 93 pitches. Only 7 more to go!
Sat,Dec 30
Climbs23&24(7p)
Our last day in Cochise. We were determined to get 100 pitches. We climbed two routes on Mt. Chaktar: Ghosts of the Past (5.10-, 4p) and Strassman Memorial Buttress (5.10+, 3p) . 100 pitches exactly! What a trip!
Sun,Dec 31
drive
Checkout from Airbnb. Drive back to Estes Park. (930 miles, 14 hours driving from Cochise to Estes Park.)

Overlays

Sheepshead
Sheepshead
Sheepshead
Sheepshead (first 3 overlays all together)
Barnyard Wall, Sheepshead
Barnyard Wall, Sheepshead
Barnyard Wall, Sheepshead
Muttonhead
Muttonhead
Muttonhead
Muttonhead
Mt. Chatkar
Whale Dome
Warpath Dome
Warpath Dome
Trad Rock & Rad Rock

Mini Reports for Our Climbs

Dec 16

Climbs 1abcdefg: Isle of You (5.10-, 1p), Stone Woman (5.10-, 1p), Cochise Toecheese (5.10-, 1p), Rise and Shine, Cupcake (5.10, 1p), Now It's My Turn (5.10, 1p), OK Corral (5.8, 1p), Hell in a Hand-basket (5.10+, 1p)

TRAD ROCK (ISLE OF YOU AND ENVIRONS)

Trad Rock is the lower and foremost of the two most prominent rocks visible from the parking area. It hosts a good number of quality routes in a variety of grades from 5.6-5.11. In spite of its name, most of the routes on this crag are clip-ups. All in all, it's a great sport crag in an unbeatable setting. Rock quality is generally good. This was a great location to get in several pitches in short order.

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I climbed on Rad Rock later in the trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the cragging session.)
Our first route was Isle of You (5.10-). Nate cruised the opening traverse, but I struggled a bit as I followed. A heady warmup!
Nate starting up Stone Woman (5.10-).
Cochise Toecheese (5.10-).
Rise and Shine, Cupcake (5.10). This route got 0 stars in the guidebook, but was one of our favorites. Nice lead Nate!
Now It's My Turn (5.10).
Nate starting up OK Corral (5.8). A fun route up incut dike holds.
Hell in a Hand-basket (5.10+).
Spinning bolt on Hell in a Hand-basket (5.10+).
Isle of the Environs in the glowing afternoon light.
View in the pretty afternoon light. Ah, good to be back in the Stronghold.
View in the pretty afternoon light. Ah, good to be back in the Stronghold.
Dec 17

Climb 2: Phony Pony (5.10-, 5 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD

This climb is fun, challenging, and continuously interesting requiring a variety of techniques.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  2:42   DESCENT (5 RAPPELS): 0:43

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I have climbed on The Sheepshead, either on this trip or on our Christmas 2022 trip to Cochise.)
Sheepshead (all routes to top)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
The Sheepshead in the morning light duriing the approach.
Nate starting up Pitch 1. We both though we had to pull pretty hard for 5.7+ on this firat part.
Steph following Pitch 1.Photo by Nate.
Looking up Pitch 2.
Steph following Pitch 2, on the crack below the flaring section.Photo by Nate.
The flaring crack section on Pitch 2.
Steph following Pitch 2.Photo by Nate
Nate leading Pitch 3.
Steph following Pitch 3.Photo by Nate.
Nate leading Pitch 4, deep blue cloudless skies above.
Like most of the routes on the Sheepshead, Phony Pony has bolted anchors.Photo by Nate.
Looking up at Pitch 5.
Looking up the 5.8 chimney on Pitch 5.
Looking down the 5.8 chimney on Pitch 5.
Steph follwoing Pitch 5.Photo by Nate.
Beginning the rappels. 5 raps with a single rope.
Rap rings on the anchor at the top of Pitch 4. The rap route leaves the route here.
Third rappel.
Final rappel.
Descent gully below the rappels. This takes you back to the base of the route.
Gazing up Sheep Thrills (5.12-) on the descent. This stunning route climbs a dike feature on the west face of Crisis Center.
Dec 17

Climb 3: Tour Buses Welcome (5.10, 3 pitches)

THE MUTTONHEAD

This enjoyable climb begins just t the right of Mystery of the Desert, on beautiful electric green rock. The climbing is mostly slab.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  1:10   DESCENT (3 RAPPELS): 0:07

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I climbed on this trip or on our Christmas 2022 trip to Cochise.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Nate starting up Pitch 1.
Looking up Pitch 2, which ascends the steep headwall. This looks improbable for the 5.10- grade, but there is a key foot rail.
Steph following Pitch 2 above the headwall.Photo by Nate.
Nate leading up electric green rock on Pitch 3 under deep blue cloudless skies.
Steph following Pitch 3.Photo by Nate.
Rappelling back down. My feet were hurting after 8 pitches of climbing in the heat with a new pair of shoes, so I had taken my shoes off.
View west from The Muttonhead. The rock in the foreground is The Mallethead.
What a splendid 74° winter day in the Stronghold.
Dec 18

Climb 4: Ides of Middlemarch (5.10-, 5 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD

One of the original routes on the Sheepshead, this route follows a beautiful major feature splitting the face. Nate and I thought this route was as good as any other 10- on The Sheepshead. The highlight of the day was climbing past a ring-tailed cat chilling out in the crack on Pitch 3.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP: 3:25   DESCENT (TO BARNYARD WALL): 0:15

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I have climbed on The Sheepshead, either on this trip or on our Christmas 2022 trip to Cochise.)
Sheepshead (all routes to top)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Entrance gate at the Sheepshead trailhead.
Nate embarking on Pitch 1.
Old bolts at anchor at top of Pitch 1.Photo by Nate.
New bolts at anhor at top of Pitch 1. Thanks.Photo by Nate.
Nate emabarking on Pitch 2.Photo by Nate.
Steph climbing Pitch 2.Photo by Nate.
Looking up Pitch 3.
Midway up Pitch 3, I heard a werid gulping noise. I throught maybe my waterbottle was leaking, but then I looked into the crack and saw a ring-tailed cat! I snapped a few photos but it was pretty scared so I didn't want to get too close.
Old bolt on PItch 3. There is a newer bolt above this, which we happily clipped.
Steph following Pitch 3. Fun stuff.Photo by Nate. 
Upper section of Pitch 3.
Nate starting up Pitch 4.
Nice crack at start of Pitch 4.
Awesome chickenheads and plates on Pitch 4.
Cam placement between plates on Pitch 4.
Looking down the plates on Pitch 4.
Nate at belay at top of Pitch 4. A nice natural rock dish.
The original finish of Ides of Middlemarch ascends the steep bombay. It was noted in the guidebook to have a lot of large loose rocks, so we opted for the final pitch of Tombstone Stripper instead. There are probably better ways to the top (such as the last two pitches of Peacemaker).
Pitch 5, via the final pitch of Tombstone Stripper. There are probably better ways to the top (such as the last two pitches of Peacemaker).
Pitch 5, via the final pitch of Tombstone Stripper. There are probably better ways to the top (such as the last two pitches of Peacemaker).
On top of The Sheepshead. Headline Dome is the rock formation on the right side of the photo.Photo by Nate.
Dec 18

Climbs 5ab: Animal Husbandy (5.10, 2 pitches) and Bruise the Rooster (5.10-, 2 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD, BARNYARD WALL

Barnyard Wall is a steep tower on the upper west face of The Sheepshead at the very top of the descent gully. Linking a route on the main south face of The Sheepshead with a route on Barnyard Wall on the descent makes for a great day of climbing.

Animal Husbandry: This is the furthese left bolted line on Barnyard Wall. The upper section of this climb are so good they make up for the  esthetic distractions at the start. We accidentially climbed this route when we thought we were climbing Bruise the Rooster, but the climbing was surprisingly good for a one-star route and we were glad we climbed it.

Bruise the Rooster: This route climbs a the prominent right-facing corner which leads to the obvious right-leaning seam through excellent rock on the headwall above. Although two pitches, we climbed this as one long 60m pitch to finish off a 10-pitch day of climbing.

ROUTE OVERLAYS

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I climbed on Barnyard Wall on this trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Pitch 1 of Animal Husbandry.
Pitch 1 of Animal Husbandry.
Pitch 2 of Animal Husbandry. Quite good climbing for just one star.
Steph on Pitch 2 of Animal Husbandry.Photo by Nate.
Pitch 1 of Bruise the Rooster.
Neon green Pitch 2 of Bruise the Rooster. Excellent climbing on solid stone.
Steph on Pitch 2 of Bruise the Rooster.Photo by Nate.
Dec 19

Climb 6: We Expect You (5.9, 4 pitches)

MT. CHAKTAR

Another fine route with climbing characterized by sustained face climbing at moderate grade. This route has been retro-bolted to a modern sport route which removed its original R rating.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  1:39   DESCENT (4 RAPPELS): 0:20

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows a couple of other routes Nate and I climbed on Mt. Chaktar on tihs trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Hiking in in the muted morning light.
Nate starting up Pitch 1.
Steph following Pitch 1. This pitch is excellent sustained 5.9.Photo by Nate.
Nate starting up Pitch 2. Immaculate stone on this pitch.
Steph following Pitch 2. Fun.
Anchor at the top of Pitch 2. Like most routes at Cochise, the anchors are all bolted.
Old bolt.
New bolt. This route has been retro-bolted to make it a more approachable and enjoyable adventure.
Pitch 3 is a short pitch to a spacious ledge.
View.
Nate leading Pitch 4. To the top!
Chickenheads on Pitch 4.
Steph nearing the top of Pitch 4.Photo by Nate.
Dec 19

Climb 7: Royal Scam (5.11-, 5 pitches)

MT. CHAKTAR

This route is named after one of the best Steely Dan albums and a nefarious bolt placement on the third pitch, hand drilled from a wide stem off a wobbly pine tree branch. Climbs a nice plaque of granite on the upper west face of the Chaktar.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  1:58   DESCENT (5 RAPPELS): 0:20

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows a couple of other routes Nate and I climbed on Mt. Chaktar on tihs trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Nate starting up Pitch 1. The 5.9 crux of this pitch is just off this first bolt, reaching over to the flake.
Steph nearing the top of Pitch 1.Photo by Nate.
Pitch 2 is easy 5.5 to the ledge below Euro Wall.
The ledge below Euro Wall. Pitch 3 starts near the tree.
Pitch 3. This pitch starts off the ledge at the base of Euro Wall. This pitch is 5.10+ strenuous up a pocketed crack. This was one of my favorite sections of the route.
Nate leading Pitch 4.
Natural rock pocket at the belay at the top of Pitch 4.
Nate embarking upon Pitch 5, surrouded by neon green lichen. 
Cool dike foot rail at the start of Pitch 5.
5.11- section on Pitch 5. Most climbing at Cochise feels a bit stout for the grade, but this felt soft for the grade.
Hiking out in the late afternoon sun.
Dec 20

Climb 8: Moby Dick (5.8, 5-6 pitches)

WHALE DOME (ROAD'S END)

One of the most-climbed lines of the West Stronghold; a must do on anyone's tick list. We had planned to link this route with a second on Whale Dome (Dem Bones, 5.10), but after we weathered some hail and rain on Moby Dick, we decided not to be too greedy on a marginal forecast day.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  1:30   DESCENT: 0:30

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Gate on the road towards Road's End.
Hiking up the wash. The approach to the base of Whale Dome takes about 1 hour.
A marker along the trail.
Scrambling up the gully to the base of Whale Dome.
Looking up the route from the base.
Nate leading Pitch 1. A fun 5.8 corner crack with a slightly runnout start.
Nearing the end of Pitch 1.
Steph on Pitch 1.Photo by Nate.
Nate starting up Pitch 2.
It hailed on us as Nate was leading Pitch 2. Here's where the alpine climbing experience comes in handy.
Slung chickenhead on Pitch 2.
Chickenhead anchor at the top of Pitch 2.Photo by Nate.
Pitch 3 fun.
Chickenhead anchor at the top of Pitch 3.Photo by Nate.
Nate starting up Pitch 4. A short easy pitch to a bolted belay.
Steph following Pitch 4. Photo by Nate.
Fresh rainwater (it rained on us after it hailed) on the ledge at the belay at the top of Pitch 4.
Nate embarking onto Pitch 5. This is runnout 5.7 on alligator skin.
One of two bolts on Pitch 5, which is sustained 5.7 for 100 feet.
Location of the belay at the top of Pitch 5. Nate skipped this belay and climbed to the top, linking in the 4th class Pitch 6.
View from the top of Whale Dome.
Make one rappel with a single 70 off of the north side of the dome.
Make one rappel with a single 70 off of the north side of the dome.Photo by Nate.
A 30 minute scramble down the gully on the west side back to the base of the route.
Hiking back out the wash. We had planned to climb a second route (Dem Bones, 5.10) on Whale Dome, but decided not to be too greedy on a marginal forecast day.
Dec 21

Climbs 9ab: Fax Crack (5.9-, 1 pitch) and Driven by Fear (5.8, 1 pitch)

WARPATH DOME, CRACKATHON (ROADSIDE/HANDS CANYON)

Two crack climbs at Crackathon, located about 10 mintutes uphill from the start of Warpath. We climbed these as we waited for the sun to come around onto Warpath.

ROUTE OVERLAYS

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Fax Crack (5.9-). A quality pitch of climbing.
Fax Crack (5.9-). A quality pitch of climbing.
The bolt above the crack to protect the final runnout is no more.
Driven by Fear (5.8). Another quality pitch of climbing.
Patina plates on Driven by Fear (5.8). 
A great belay rock at the base of Crackaton area.
Dec 21

Climb 10: Warpath (5.9, 3 pitches)

WARPATH DOME (ROADSIDE/HANDS CANYON)

This route has it all: crack, dikes, slab, and face with just a touch of runout to challenge almost the entire climbing repertoire.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  1:36   DESCENT: 0:07

ROUTE OVERLAYS

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Starting the approach to Warpath Dome. The trail parallels a fence for the first part.
Looking up Pitch 1.
Nate leading off Pitch 2.
Dike hiking on Pitch 2. This section is easy but don't think about how far you would go if you fell (for either leader or follower).
Crux 5.7+ section of Pitch 2. Nice lead Nate, I wouldn't have been able to keep it together if I were leading this part.
Lone bolt on Pitch 2. This marks the spot where you head up.
Slung chickenhead on Pitch 2.
Cam placement in a pocket on Pitch 2.
Nate leading Pitch 3. This pitch was rated 5.9 in our guidebook, but it felt easier.
Slung chickenhead on Pitch 3.
Lone bolt on Pitch 3.
The final stretch to the top rappel anchor.
Rap 1 of 2. Two double-rope rappels will get you back to the base of the route.
Rap 2 of 2. Two double-rope rappels will get you back to the base of the route.
Lots of pokey things on the approach.
Warpath Dome in the afternoon sun on the hike out. You can see the dike features cutting across the face.
Dec 23

Climbs 11ab: Unnamed (5.10-, 1p) & Fire in the Hole (5.10, 1p)

RAD ROCK (ISLE OF YOU AND ENVIRONS)

Rad Rock is the next fin of rock behind and uphill from Trad Rock. Unlike Trad Rock, this area was established with the "radical" method of the time: top-down rap bolting. The rock here is decent and the routes are well-protected with top anchors, so it is a good place to get in a lot of pitches in short order, especially on a day with a marginal forecast. We managed to get in two pitches before it begain to rain.

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I climbed on Trad Rock earlier in the trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Rad Rock gets shade until noon, and it was pretty chilly, so we waited a bit. I started a logic puzzle my mom had sent me in the Christmas package. And munched on popcorn I had bought at Family Dollar the day before in Tombstone.
Unnaamed 5.10- on Upper Rad Rock.
Fire in the Hole (5.10) on Lower Rad Rock.
A natural arch on Fire in the Hole (5.10). I imagine this is how the route got its name.
Nate started up Hotter Than a Three Peckered Goat (5.11), the best route on the wall. It began to rain shortly after he started; he forged onward, but the rock quickly got to wet and he had to lower off a bail biner.
Dec 24

Climb 12: The Last Roundup (5.10+, 6 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD

This route was the last of the long multipitch to be put up on the Sheepshead.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  2:29   DESCENT (TO BARNYARD WALL): 0:15

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows A Climb Too Tough to Die, which Nate and I climbed on our Christmas 2022 trip to Cochise.)
Sheepshead (all routes to top)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Nate starting up Pitch 1.
Nate starting Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.
Nice patina plates on Pitch 2.
On Pitch 3, we had to cross a wet streak. This made it harder than 5.9. Nice lead Nate.
Perfect stone on Pitch 3.
Pitch 4.
Cave of the Screaming Little Man.
Pitch 5 moves left. This is kind of a cool pitch. There is a hard 5.10+ move over the roof at the end. Another nice lead by Nate.
Steph nearing the top of Pitch 5.Photo by Nate.
Nice Metolius anchor bolts at the belay below the final pitch.
Pitch 6 to the top.
The impeccible slab of Pitch 6.
Steph on the impeccible slab of Pitch 6.Photo by Nate.
These holes we completely dry when we were last on the summit a few days earlier. It had rained quite a bit the preceding two days.
Dec 24

Climb 13: Bantam of the Opera (5.10+, 2 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD, BARNYARD WALL

After climbing The Last Roundup, we climbed Bantam of the Opera on Barnyard Wall (Barnyard Wall is a steep tower on the upper west face of The Sheepshead at the very top of the descent gully). This two-pitch route is a quality face climb with some beautiful features along the way.

ROUTE OVERLAYS

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I climbed on Barnyard Wall on this trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Nate starting up Pitch 1 of Bantam of the Opera. Cool pocket climbing starts off this pitch.
The second half of Pitch 1 climbs up a nice slab.
Steph nearing the top of Pitch 1.Photo by Nate.
Nate at the anchor at the top of Pitch 1.
A cool hole at the belay at the top of Pitch 1.
Looking up Pitch 2. Pretty colors.
Steph nearing the top of Pitch 2.Photo by Nate.
Dec 25

Climbs 14ab: Have You Seen It? (5.10, 2 pitches) & In Water There is Life (5.11-, 3 pitches)

THE MUTTONHEAD

Have You Seen It? - This is a two-pitch, mostly bolted line consisting mostly of face and slab climbing that is worth doing if you are in the area. Also a nice morning warm-up as it gets morning sun (besides for the first 40 feet).

In Water There is Life - The third pitch of this route is the guidebook cover. Gotta climb it!

ROUTE OVERLAYS

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlays also show a few other routes Nate and I climbed on this trip and our Christmas 2022 trip to Cochise.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Nate starting up Pitch 1 of Have You Seen It?. It was cold in the morning shade, but the majority of the route was in the sun.
Second half of Pitch 1 of Have You Seen It?. Nice to be in the sun!
Pitch 2 of Have You Seen It?. A nice slab.
Nate starting up Pitch 1 of In Water There is Life. This pitch ascends a yellow water streak.
Pitch 2 of In Water There is Life. Steep and juggy 5.9.
Steph at the exit of Pitch 2 of In Water There is Life.Photo by Nate.
Pitch 3 corner of In Water There is Life. Short but packs a punch.
Elf shoe at the ledge at the base of Pitch 3 of In Water There is Life. 
Nate leading Pitch 3 corner of In Water There is Life. Nice onsight Nate!
Pitch 3 corner of In Water There is Life. 
Steph climbing Pitch 3 corner of In Water There is Life. Photo by Nate.
Steph climbing Pitch 3 corner of In Water There is Life. Photo by Nate.
The guidebook cover is Pitch 3 of In Water There is Life.
Dec 25

Climb 15: Poultry Emulsion (5.10, 2 pitches) 

THE SHEEPSHEAD, BARNYARD WALL

After climbing on the Muttonhead, we climbed Poultry Emulsion on Barnyard Wall (Barnyard Wall is a steep tower on the upper west face of The Sheepshead at the very top of the descent gully). This two-pitch route is the longest climb on Barnyard Wall and features good climbing throughout.

ROUTE OVERLAYS

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I climbed on Barnyard Wall on this trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Pitch 1.
Higher on Pitch 1. Pretty neon lichen.
Nate starting up Pitch 2.
Higher on Pitch 2. Steep here.
Dec 26

Climb 16: Unmitigated Audacity (5.11-, 5 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD

This route is characterized by quality, sustained climbing and some of the best rock on the Sheepshead. Every pitch is 5.10 or higher, and the climbing is pretty sustained at the grade.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP: 3:10  DESCENT (BACK TO PACKS AT BASE OF ROUTE): 0:30

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I have climbed on The Sheepshead, either on this trip or on our Christmas 2022 trip to Cochise.)
Sheepshead (all routes to top)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Nate starting up Pitch 1. This pitch has several 5.10 sections.
Steph following Pitch 1. I though the move just below me was quite hard. Seemed harder than 5.10.Photo by Nate.
Belay anchor at top of Pitch 1. Quads (made with 2 slings) are great to have at Cochise for efficient anchor transitions. We always have two on a route.
Climbers starting up Peacemaker. Photo taken from the belay anchor at the top of Pitch 1.
Nate embarking on Pitch 2. This is the crux (5.11-) pitch. The crux occurs on the steep slab in the second half of the pitch.
Higher on Pitch 2, looking up at the crux (5.11-) slab. Beautiful stone.
Steph on the slabtastic crux (5.11-) Pitch 2.Photo by Nate.
Looking up Pitch 3.
Nate embarking on the long Pitch 3 adventure. 200' to the anchor.
Higher on Pitch 3.
Pitch 4. Several 5.10 moves.
Pitch 5. Starts and finishes with some sustained 5.10 harddness.
Dec 27

Climb 17: In Vino Veritas (5.11-, 3 pitches)

THE MUTTONHEAD

In Vino Veritas - To celebrate post-climb with a toast of red would not be inappropriate for this route. The start is located about 200 feet uphill from the toe of the formation.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  1:18   DESCENT (3 RAPPELS): 0:07

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows In Water There is Life, which Nate and I also climbed on this trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Pitch 1, 5.11-. Hard start to the day. 
Anchor at the top of Pitch 1. Most routes in Cochise have bolted anchors, and Nate and I always have two quads (made of two slings) which make for efficient anchor setups.
Steph on the traverse at the top of Pitch 1.Photo by Nate.
Pitch 2. Fun 5.9 between two 5.11- pitches.
Pitch 3. 5.11- steep laybacking. We thought this pitch was great, and a bit easier than the Pitch 1 5.11-.
Three of the six anchor bolts on the route are corroding. I am not sure why.
Dec 27

Climb 18: Get the Flock Out of Here (5.10+, 5 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD

Interesting and sustained sections of crack climbing of all sizes and techniques come with multiple cruxes.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  2:48   DESCENT (BACK TO BASE OF ROUTE): 0:20

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows Ewephoria, which Nate and I also climbed on our Christmas 2022 trip to Cochise.)
Sheepshead (all routes to top)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Pitch 1.
Pitch 1. Some fun crack climbing.
Looking up at the crux of the pitch. This pitch is rated 5.10- in the guidebook, but the crux on Pitch 1 felt as hard as any of the 5.10+ cruxes above.
Nate starting up Pitch 2. 5.7+.
Nate starting up Pitch 3.
Pitch 4 is quite unique. It climbs up an arching wide corner and then traverses right at the roof.
Pitch 4 arching corner.
Pitch 4 roof. I got a bit scared following this section due to the potential to take a large swing.
Start of Pitch 5.
Nate leading Pitch 5.
Final section of Pitch 5. A fun finish!
Dec 28

Climb 19: Mad Cow Disease (5.11-, 5 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD

A nice 2-star 5.11- up the Sheepshead. The crux pitches two and three are quite beautiful.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  3:00  DESCENT: 0:30

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I have climbed on The Sheepshead, either on this trip or on our Christmas 2022 trip to Cochise.)
Sheepshead (all routes to top)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Looking up Pitch 1 from the base of the route.
Traverse at the end of Pitch 1.
Steph on the hard slab on the upper stretches of Pitch 1.Photo by Nate.
Looking up Pitch 2. This is the first of two 5.11- pitches on the route.
Traverse at the end of Pitch 2.
Steph on Pitch 2.Photo by Nate.
Nate starting up Pitch 3. This is the second of two 5.11- pitches on the route.
Upper stretch of Pitch 3. The going is easier here.
Bolted anchors are so nice. Quads (made with two slings) make things quick and easy.
Looking up Pitch 4. The climbing on this pitch is pretty moderate. There are some runnouts on easy terrain.
Nice cam placement between plates to alleviate the runnout.
Nice slung chickenhead to alleviate the runnout even more.
Nate leading Pitch 5. The rock is a bit grainy and the climbing is 5.10+, but it is well-bolted.
Anchor at the top - two widely-spaced bolts.
Walk to the summit and head down the usual descent trail.
A cool dike near the top of The Sheepshead.
Dec 28

Climb 20: Great Pig in the Sty (5.11-, 2 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD, BARNYARD WALL

After climbing Mad Cow Disease, we climbed Great Pig in the Sty on Barnyard Wall (Barnyard Wall is a steep tower on the upper west face of The Sheepshead at the very top of the descent gully). This two-pitch route ascends a continuous thin face to an upper headwall of beautiful, exposed stone. On this trip we climbed all five of the 2-pitch routes on Barnyard Wall. All were worth doing, especially to tack a couple of quality pitches onto a Sheepshead climb.

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I climbed on Barnyard Wall on this trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Pitch 1. Starts off on unappealing rock but gets better as you go.
Steph on the upper stretches of Pitch 1.Photo by Nate.
Nate starting up Pitch 2. Excellent 5.10 to 5.11- climbing on this pitch.
Higher on Pitch 2.
Dec 29

Climb 21: The Tombstone Stripper (5.10-, 6 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD

This route ascends the south face of  The Sheepshead, crossing over Ides of Middlemarch.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  #:##   DESCENT: #:##

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows other routes Nate and I have climbed on The Sheepshead, either on this trip or on our Christmas 2022 trip to Cochise.)
Sheepshead (all routes to top)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Starting up Pitch 1.
Finishing Pitch 1.
Old anchor bots at the Pitch 1 belay. There are updated bolts we used.
Starting up Pitch 2. Steep 5.8+.
End of Pitch 1.Photo by Nate.
Natural bridge at the start of Pitch 3.
Nate starting up Pitch 3. The tree is on, right?
Traversing across the top of the natural bridge at the start of Pitch 3.
Midway through Pitch 3, you pass the remains of (old bolt holes filed with epoxy) of an old anchor.
Steph on Pitch 3.Photo by Nate.
Looking up Pitch 4. 
Pitch 4,
Pitch 4 patina fun.
Nice nut placement between patina plates on Pitch 4.
Pitch 5 via Peacemaker. We had climbed the last two pitches of Tomstone Stripper when we climbed Ides of Middlemarch earlier in this trip (see photos to the right), so we decided to climb the last two pitches of Peacemaker on tihs day.
Pitch 5 via Peacemaker. 
Pitch 6 via Peacemaker. 
Pitches 5&6, via the final pitch of Tombstone Stripper. Taken when climbing Ides of Middlemarch earlier in this trip.
Dec 29

Climb 22: Ewephoria (5.8+, 5 pitches)

THE SHEEPSHEAD

After climbing The Tombstone Stripper, it was still early in the afternoon and such a splitter day, so we decided a quick lap up Ewephoria was in order. We had climbed this route the previous year and it was worth climbing again. With its moderate grade and generally well-protected climbing, Ewephoria is the most popular route on the Sheepshead. As the guidebook mentions, diverse climbing at a moderate grade on high quality rock make this a must-do route, no matter how hard you climb. 


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  1:08

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows Get the Flock Out of Here, which we climbed earlier on this trip.)
Sheepshead (all routes to top)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Start of Ewephoria.
Pitch 1.
Pitch 2.
Pitch 3.
Pitch 4.
We simulclimbed a bit (linked P1+P2 and P2+P3), so we used a microtraxion for safety.
Pitch 5.
We had climbed two routes on The Sheepshead without returning to our pack at the base. We were thirsty.
Dec 30

Climb 23: Ghosts of the Past (5.10-, 4 pitches)

MT. CHAKTAR

A fun route 30 feet uphill from the toe of the great sla and gear-up area. Climbs up a line of bolts through pretty white dikes.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  1:40   DESCENT (4 RAPPELS): 0:10

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows a couple of other routes Nate and I climbed on Mt. Chaktar on tihs trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Nate starting up Pitch 1.
Pitch 2.
Hand pocket on Pitch 2.
Good rock on Ptich 2. This is one of two 5.10- pitches on the route.
Pitch 3. This has some 5.10- climbing as well.
Steph on Pitch 3.Photo by Nate.
Nate starting up Pitch 4.
There are some cool dikes that run across the face of Mt. Chaktar.
Dec 30

Climb 24: Strassman Memorial Buttress (5.10+, 3 pitches)

MT. CHAKTAR

A fine line, highlighted with a beautiful, exposed buttress pitch.


OUR TIMES:     BASE TO TOP:  1:21   DESCENT (4 RAPPELS): 0:10

ROUTE OVERLAY

(Click on image to open high resolution image file.)(Overlay also shows a couple of other routes Nate and I climbed on Mt. Chaktar on tihs trip.)

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in order in which they were taken during the climb.)
Nate starting up Pitch 1.
Pitch 2 climbs the buttress. This is the crux (5.10+) pitch. An excellent pitch.
Nate starting up Pitch 3.
Patina plates.

Random Non-Climbing Photos from the Trip

PHOTOS

(Click through the album. Photos in a somewhat sorted but still pretty random order.)
Nate bought a Nintendo Switch shortly before the trip. Makes the drive go by quicker!
Aibnb.
View from the Aibnb. Only about 30 minutes from the Sheepshead trailhead.
Aibnb.
Aibnb.
Aibnb.
Welcome sign on our gate at the Airbnb.
Propane heater in the Airbnb.
Cozy morning inside the Airbnb.
Nate enjoying a Coffee Crisp my mom sent him in my Christmas package from Canada. Coffee Crisp are my all-time favorite chocolate bar.
I got Nate a pizza stone for Christmas. He cooked a frozen pizza on the grill.
Nate decided the pizza stone takes frozen pizza to a new level.
Evening over the Stronghold from our Airbnb after a good day of climbing.
Buster. Airbnb owners' dog.
Sweetie. Airbnb owners' dog.
Midway through the trip we had a forced rest day when it rained.
I did a puzzle on our forced rest day.
Finished! That was fun!
On the drive out from Road's End, we stopped at Council Rocks to look at the pictographs and metates. These were created by indigeous peoples over 1000 years ago.Photo by Nate.
Pictographs.
Pictographs.
Pictographs.
Pictographs.
Metates.
Ball cactus.
Cactus art.
Cactus art.Photo by Nate.
Cactus.Photo by Nate.
There are a lot of sharp things in the desert.
Cactus close-up.Photo by Nate.
Cactus flowers.Photo by Nate.
Cactus art.
Cactus art.
Cactus art.
Yucca.
Yucca.
Cliff bar or...?Photo by Nate.
Wood art.
Wood art.Photo by Nate.
Artistic bark photo. Photo by Nate.
Some scat on the trail. This looks awfully like the Cliff bar....
More animal scat.
Nate and I debated whether or not Fig Newtons are a bar or a cookie. Nate says cookie. I say bar. Either way, they are quite yummy.
Peanut butter and cheese crackers with chicken was Nate's staple lunch of the trip.
Nate's Christmas Eve dinner: pasta, meatballs, and veggies, topped with parmesan cheese.
Every year I can remember, my mom made clam chowder for Christmas Eve dinner. So I had canned clam chowder and sent my parents a photo.
One of my Family Dollar gluten free concoctions: oatmeal and Lucky Charms.
Nate had never had Ferrero Rochers before, so he got some at the Family Dollar. Yum.
So nice to find 70 degree tempeartures in the winter. This is our fourth Christmas trip to Cochise in a row, and turning out to be the warmest.
Ice on the descent from the Sheepshead. So even though it was warm in the sun, it was still cold in the shade. We climbed sunny routes.
My mom sent us a Christmas package. Some cozy homemade flannel pajamas. Thanks mom!
Nate got some Coffee Crisps from Canada. Thanks Sue!
Relaxing after a good day of climbing in my new pajamas my mom made me.
Christmas morning logic puzzle.
Interesting sidenote about the town of Tombstone, Arizona: The town of Tombstone, Arizona is known for its Wild West history, most notably the gunfight at the OK Corral. On the evening of March 15, 1881, three Cochise County Cowboys attempted to rob a Kinnear & Company stagecoach carrying $26,000 in silver bullion ($788,428 in 2022). Near Drew's Station, just outside Contention City, the stage was attacked. Deputy U.S. Marshal Virgil Earp, with his temporary deputies and brothers Wyatt Earp and Morgan Earp, pursued the Cowboys suspected of the murders. That set off a chain of events that culminated, on October 26, 1881, in a gunfight in a vacant lot near the O.K. Corral, during which the lawmen and Doc Holliday killed Tom McLaury, Frank McLaury, and Billy Clanton.
We went to Crystal Palace in Tombstone. This is a historic saloon.
We went to Crystal Palace in Tombstone. This is a historic saloon.
Inside Crystal Palace. Like being thrown back in time 140 years.