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Amazon River


Four days and three nights on the amazing Amazon, from Yurimaguas to Iquitos 

Simply put this was one of the three best things I did on my trip to South America and definitely where I got my best photos. If you get close to the Amazon, you should not miss out. I took the boat from Yurimaguas to Iquitos. I assume it is one of the most common routes for locals and backpackers.  Here's how to get on board. I got on one of the Eduardo boats, so my tips apply to the them. Note that if you want to take a jungle tour in the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve you might want to get off in Nauta, a half day on the boat away from Iquitos, or about 2 hours in a taxi. 

Arriving
The boat departs from a makeshift port at Yurimaguas. The port isn't much more than a wood plank between the muddy shore and the boat. 

Getting to Yurimaguas
Bus or collective taxi from Tarapoto. Tarapoto has bus and flight access from cities such as Chachapoyas and Lima. We took a taxi between Tarapoto and Yurimaguas, which cost us about 60 Soles and took about 4 hours. The cabs are nice and the road is windy but completely paved and safe with a few nice views. You can catch the Taxis to Tarapoto on the edge of town. You will need to have a motorcycle taxi take you to their office/terminal with your stuff. Once you get to Yurimaguas ask to be taken to the port. 

Provisions/Supplies
You will need:to pick up a few things before you get on the boat. You can pick these things up in Tarapoto or Yurimaguas.
Hammock - bring your own rent one on the boat, for under 10 Soles
Plastic container & silverware - not needed if you book a cabin, the boat crew provides it
Enough water for 3-5 days 

About the boat ride
Boats do not depart everyday, more like every other day. You can try and ask around in Tarapoto or Yurimaguas. Once you buy your ticket, about 100 Soles,  you can set your hammock up and sleep on the boat.
The boat will most likely not leave on time. We showed up late and it still didn't leave until a few hours after that. This plus general conditions on the river make your actual arrival time unpredictable. It's still better to get there early to pick out a good hammock spot.

Try to get on the second level, less engine noise and a lot less crowded. At one point our boat got stuck in shallow waters at about 3 AM with the engine roaring to get us out.  

I'd say our deck was 10-20% backpacker. The lower level seemed less foreigner filled.

Conditions on the boat are pretty spare, but that's not what you're there for. If you are very sensitive about cleanliness or nice accommodations there are few other boats which are basically floating hotels and charge accordingly.

A couple I was travelling with booked a cabin so I put my bag in there. They give you clean linen. During the day the cabin was very hot. Outdoors it was hot, but not intolerable. No major mosquito issues. I didn't notice any problems with theft. 

Food is pretty basic, heaps of rice plus some meat. They sell soft drinks on board. Bathrooms were not the cleanest, but tolerable for 4 days. I think the showers use river water.

I was there in July 2011. Only saw rain once, just a brief shower.

The boats make multiple stops along the way to pick people up, drop off, load and unload. You'll have people come on board selling food and occasionally drinks. See the photos above.

Once you arrive in Iquitos there will be plenty of moto taxis waiting to take you wherever you need to go.

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