April 2005

Sunday 17 April

I eventually started my 2005 travels today having given up all hope of completing the work on my house I had planned to do before this. Possibly it will all get done by the summer, which summer I’m not certain. I travelled from home to the Camping and Caravanning Club campsite on the outskirts of Oxford, using the M25, A41 via Aylesbury then the A418 and A40 to Oxford. A route I know very well and one that avoids the worst (Western) parts of the M25 and the London end of the A40/M40. It is a site that I have used several times before, being a very useful one for the first trip of the year as it is only a short cycle ride, or walk, to the city centre and has a camping shop (Touchwoods) right by the entrance to the site. Useful that is, as it the first trip of the year when, try as you may to remember all those essential things you need to pack for a camping trip, you forget the most. Convenient shops, particularly those selling camping equipment, are therefore very useful. I travelled in the bright sunshine of the morning, arriving just after mid-day. Early afternoon, in more hazy sunshine, was spent checking out my Brompton cycle (I should have really done that before coming away) as it had been packed away in the motorcaravan since last year, complete with mud, undisturbed. Having found all was well, I then went for a short ride down to the River Thames and along the towpath into Oxford returning by the cycle path from the city centre. A bit of shopping (mainly browsing) at Touchwoods followed, retiring to the motorcaravan before the rain set in for the evening. What essential did I forget? My current membership card for the Camping and Caravanning Club! My zeal to clear some space in my wallet by discarding unwanted plastic seems to have led me to take out this years card but leave last years in place – the site staff were very understanding … it must be my age.

Monday 18 April

The rain which started yesterday evening, continued through the night and for the first part of this morning. Welcome to camping in Great Britain – although I should be grateful that I have the warmth and dry of a motorcaravan to shelter in rather that the small tent I had to suffice with in earlier years. For the morning, I therefore contented myself with a bit more organisation and cleaning of the motorcaravan – things which I really should have sorted out before leaving home. Early in the afternoon I walked to the city centre of Oxford, had a stroll around and then came back to the campsite. The weather was considerably better by this time so I was tempted out on the cycle again – to Abingdon and back on National Cycle Route No 5. This was not as I intended. I have cycled this route before, but on consulting maps I thought an alternative cycle route was possible keeping to the banks of the River Thames all the way to Abingdon. But I was mistaken and so settled for this signposted route. The brighter sunny weather of the afternoon gradually turned more cloudy but the rain just held off until I had returned to the motorcaravan. After some showers the evening turned out bright and sunny – the best part of the day. After exercising my legs and cycle today I must find something to exercise my cameras on tomorrow – they must be feeling quite neglected.

Tuesday 19 April

More rain first thing in the morning, but drying up – time to see if I can still remember how to use the new camera I bought last year. In the morning a drove from the campsite in Oxford to Blenheim Palace, which is only a few miles to the North in the village of Woodstock, or should that be Woodstock is on the outskirts of Blenheim Palace. Further details of the buildings, park and gardens can be found in the photo slide show. I decided that trying to see everything in one day would be difficult, so settled on investigating the Park and Gardens only, leaving the interior of the building for a possible future visit – it was also cheaper that way, not that that had any influence on the decision. The weather had also improved considerably with significant breaks in the cloud giving good lighting conditions for photographs, as long as you were fairly quick. The remainder of the morning was spent investigating the Terrace Gardens, South Lawn, Secret Garden (which was well signposted!) and Lakeside. Taking all opportunities to get photographs of the Palace. The Terrace Gardens are more accurately described as the Water Terraces, but I think somebody had left the plug out overnight and the ponds were nearly all dry (actually it looked as if they had been drained for cleaning). Hopefully my skilful photography (!!!) has managed to avoid showing the empty ponds. After lunch in motorcaravan, overlooking Vanbrugh’s Grand Bridge over the Lake, I took the miniature train from the Palace to the Pleasure Gardens. The main attractions here are the Butterfly House and The Maze. I spent sometime in the Butterfly House where I saw some amazing butterflies and moths (after my steamed-up spectacles had cleared) and sheltered from the first rain shower of the afternoon, but I decided to give the Maze a miss – I seem to get confused and lost going round my local Tesco’s now, what chance would I have with a proper Maze? There would have been a considerable wait for the miniature train so I decided to walk the short distance back to the Palace, where the motorcaravan was parked. Cue the second shower of the afternoon, but this time very heavy and turning to hail before I reached the shelter of the motorcaravan. Fortunately I was able to change out of my wet clothes into dry ones in the motorcaravan, something those making the same journey back to a car would have found less easy. I returned to the campsite in Oxford mid-afternoon and started to plan the next part of my journey.

Wednesday 20 April

After a slight detour to stock up with supplies at a Tesco’s, not far from the Oxford campsite, I travelled to my next stopping place – the Cheddar, Mendip Heights, Camping and Caravanning Club campsite in Somerset. The route I took was South on the A34, West on the M4 and then South-West on the A350/361 towards Shepton Mallet. The campsite, a new one to me, is actually situated about 5 miles North of the City of Wells and about the same distance East of Cheddar Gorge, on the outskirts of a small straggling village called Priddy. The location is a complete contrast to the Oxford site, being set in rural farmland and quite small. After arriving at the site just after 1pm and having lunch, I had a wander around the local lanes and the village to reconnoitre the setting out locations for footpaths in the area for possible walks to Wells and Cheddar. The weather which was cloudy and dull for most of the day (but dry) brightened up during the late afternoon and provide a perfect evening and sunset, the last vestiges of which I can see on the horizon through the front window of the motorcaravan as I sit here composing this at 8:45pm. Hope it holds for the planned walks.

Thursday 21 April

The day started misty and cool, but I decided to make a relatively early start on my walk to Wells, placing faith in the weather forecast which promised improvement. My route followed, for the most part, The West Mendip Way which I joined just South of Priddy. This led me on a circuitous route across farm land and track, then entering the English Nature Reserve of Ebbor Gorge, descending fairly steeply to the village of Wookey Hole. After a short stretch on the road through the village the path then enters farmland again, skirts round a quarry and descends through the outskirts of Wells via a footpath between houses and through the grounds of a school to finish by the Cathedral – which is just where I wanted to be. Although the Way is not brilliantly signposted and I needed to consult the map fairly often, I didn’t get lost or go astray – possibly a first for me! You will note that I didn’t visit the famous caves at Wookey Hole. I had seen from a leaflet at the campsite that these were now owned by Gerry Cottle (of circus fame) and of the ‘special attractions’ that were now available there – and decided it was not for me. I spent some time walking around the cathedral, taking lots of photographs of it’s exterior, and the Bishop’s Palace. The Palace seems more like a small castle, surrounded by a moat and, try as I might, I couldn’t get that episode of Backadder II out of my mind, you know, the one with the Bishop of Bath and Wells. I then retraced my steps back up West Mendip Way to Priddy and the campsite. On the return I realised that the steep path I referred to above was a very steep path for my first walk of the year. The weather? Well it did improve as the mist cleared, but its never actually went away drifting in and out throughout the day. When it was clear and the sun broke through it became quite warm (particularly during that climb) but would then turn cool again as the mist returned. I had hoped that approaching Wells from above (The Mendips) I could get some good photographs of it and the cathedral in its surroundings – but even when the mist cleared there was still a haze which prevented me succeeding in the aim. Glastonbury Tor in the far distance proved even more ethereal – one minute it seemed real then the next it had vanished into mist - or should that be myth – see it you can spot it in one of the photographs from Ebbor Gorge.

Friday 22 April

My original intention for Friday was for a fairly easy day saving my next long walk for tomorrow, but the weather forecast made me change my plans. Rain was coming in from the West, arriving here later today and settling in for the weekend – so the walk to Cheddar was on for today. I set out on a minor road heading North-West from the campsite. As Cheddar is almost due West from the campsite this might seem somewhat perverse, but I had a plan. After walking for a mile or two on this road it descends into a shallow valley and crosses the Samaritan’s Way – this was my intended approach to Cheddar Gorge. The Way heads South-West in an ever deepening valley bottom – delightfully named Velvet Bottom – and eventually merges with the upper part of Cheddar Gorge. Then, ignoring the easy option of descending the Gorge along the road, it ascends to the cliff path which runs along the South-Eastern edge of the Gorge, providing some superb vantage points for photographs, before descending into Cheddar. I actually descended the flight of steps, called Jacobs Ladder, into the touristy lower part of the Gorge (lots of shops selling cheese for some reason!) rather than completing the path down to town. The only tourist facility I availed myself of was the gents toilet – I had brought supplies of food and drink with me. The return was by a more direct route. A footpath heads almost due East out of Cheddar, gradually ascending the escarpment of the Mendips, through nature reserves and then farmland. This path ends where it joins the road heading away from Cheddar Gorge towards Priddy. And so my journey ended, as it had begun, walking along the road. I arrived back at the campsite just before 3pm and by about 4pm the rain started. It still continues at 8pm as I write this. My planning seems to have worked – amazing – I also thought I saw Glastonbury Tor in the distance through the haze as I was ascending the escarpment out of Cheddar – but then it was gone again – some very mysterious things seems to be happening to me recently!

Saturday 23 April

There is really nothing much to say about today apart from stating that it rained, as forecast, overnight, all morning and through to the early part of the afternoon. This therefore turned into my rest day – I hadn’t planned to do too much and finished up doing even less. A short walk around the local lanes, after the rain ceased, was brought to a premature end when I found the track which I had intended to follow had turned into a quagmire. I therefore returned along the same Nine Barrows Lane to the campsite, having only glimpsed the Barrows across a very muddy field. Tomorrow I move on. I’m glad I made that decision to go for the walk to Cheddar yesterday, there is no-way that I would have contemplated doing that walk today. The late afternoon and evening turned out fine and sunny – but it was too late then and I had resigned myself to laziness.

Sunday 24 April

The morning started fine and sunny, although there was still a hint of mist and haze around – good for my journey to the next campsite. In the morning a drove from Cheddar to the Verwood, New Forest, Camping and Caravanning Club campsite in Dorset. The route chosen by my TomTomGO navigation system was via the A37 (stopping at Tescos in Shepton Mallet – my choice not the navigation systems), A371, A30 to Shaftesbury and then the B3081 over Cranborne Chase to Verwood. A very good choice of route by TomTom (it does seem to be working quite well) and a very interesting climb on the B3081 not far from Shaftesbury to ascend quickly onto Cranborne Chase – the last time I remember hairpin bends like those was in the Pyrenees and that was a long time ago. Verwood and the campsite is not actually in the New Forest but is, in the words of the Club Sites Book, "… well placed for exploring the New Forest …". Fair enough I suppose, Verwood is a few miles to the North-West of Ringwood on the A31 where the New Forest actually begins. The campsite is quite a large one but it seems that most places of interest will be too far away for walking or cycling to and therefore a bit more driving will be required. After arriving at almost exactly mid-day and having lunch, I cycled ‘round the block’ to get a feel for the area. This confirmed that, although the site is a rural one, its proximity to the large conurbations on the South Coast means that all the minor roads around are fairly busy with traffic – not conducive to recreational cycling. As I returned from the cycling excursion the first few drops of rain fell, soon the be followed by many many more. It rained quite hard and persistently for the remainder of the day and the forecast this evening seems to suggest this may be the pattern for the remainder of the week – oh dear!

Monday 25 April

The day began cool and with a thick blanket of fog, which only slowly dissipated during the morning. It had stopped raining, however, sometime during the night but it was very wet underfoot. I decided that the best way to explore the New Forest was by using the motorcaravan for a sightseeing tour, something I would normally try to avoid preferring walking or cycling but, given the distance from the campsite and the prevailing weather, it seemed the best solution in the circumstances. I worked out a circular route, travelling clockwise from Ringwood on minor roads through the Forest which had numerous parking places provided. Frequently using the parking facilities to stop and take photographs, including one stop for lunch, I travelled from mid-morning to early afternoon, by which time the fog and mist were clearing and the sun starting to make an appearance. As you can probably tell, my choice of campsite was not very well thought out with a view to exploring the New Forest so I have decided to leave further exploration for a future date when I shall try to use a campsite which is actually located in the Forest – there seem to be plenty. So, I’m booked into this campsite until Wednesday, what do I do now? I have worked out how I can spend Wednesday, when a nearby Nation Trust property will be open, but I’m not certain yet about tomorrow – I suppose there’s Bournemouth and a bit of sea air!

Tuesday 26 April

An early promise of sunshine turned to rain before I had finished my breakfast and it was past lunch before the rain ceased. I mention the two meals as it was the sum of my activity for the first half of the day, apart from a lot of reading. The weather allowed me to delay making a decision as to where to go. I decided on Bournemouth in the end, but not the central part of it, preferring to investigate the remote eastern end of its seafront, and nature reserve, at Hengistbury Head. By the time I arrive there, in the early part of the afternoon, the weather had improved considerably – bright sunshine with only a hint of cloud. I was therefore looking forward to a pleasant stroll around the reserve and some prolonged exposure to the sun and the sea air, but Bournemouth Council had other ideas – they don’t like motorcaravan owners. The large car park just outside the reserve, which was only a quarter full when I arrived, had a height barrier at its entrance (like all others in Bournemouth I suspect) thus preventing me from using it. I therefore had to double back and squeeze into a parking space on the approach road, but this only allowed me a one hour stay. So my visit was only a brief one, time for a brisk walk around the main path of the reserve and a few photographs of the reserve, the sea and, dimly in the distance, the Isle of Wight. I was back on the campsite then by mid-afternoon and the rain duly returned a short while later. My experience of Bournemouth has not been a very welcoming one. I had been told that there were no car parks in the centre of the town, I found the ones outside the centre to restrict motorcaravans from using them and although there are buses from Verwood to Bournemouth the nearest stop is nearly two miles from the campsite and no information on services seems to be available. I discounted cycling after finding no cycle tracks or lanes in the area. I hope the surroundings, the weather and my mood improve tomorrow!

Wednesday 27 April

A good, bright, sunny, almost cloudless, start to the day – but it didn’t last. In the morning I drove to the National Trust property of Kingston Lacy, a relatively short distance away. By the time I started by journey the sky had become a patchwork of blue, white and dark grey – the blue and white seemed quite acceptable but the dark grey (clouds) looked very ominous. Just as I was approaching Kingston Lacy it started to rain, while I was finding somewhere to park it was pouring with rain and by the time I had parked, hail was falling. Having waited for the weather to relent it again looked quite bright, so a started with a walk around the gardens and took the opportunity for photography before any more of the inclement weather arrived. The sky looked ominous again on many occasions (see the photographs!), but it remained dry, although only on one occasion did I manage to photograph the house in sunlight. Deciding my luck with the weather could not last too much longer I ventured indoors, first to view the interior of the house and then to sample the cuisine of the restaurant – both a bit overwhelming. I was back at the campsite by mid-afternoon and spent the remainder of the day there in quite pleasant sunshine, starting to plan my journey back home tomorrow.

Thursday 28 April

In the morning I travelled home from the campsite at Verwood, using the A31, M27, A27, A285, A272, A264, M23, M25 and A2 to the Blackwall Tunnel. A distance of about 150 miles taking me about 3 hours. The weather forecast promised heavy rain and high winds during the morning for the South of England but I’m glad to say it was wrong, at least for the part of South England that I travelled through, the worst I experienced was an annoying, on/off, light drizzle while travelling on the M27 – no sign of the sun though.

May 2005

Sunday 15 May

I travelled from home to the White House Beach Caravan Club campsite which is situated in Kessingland, just South of Lowestoft in the County of Suffolk. The route was simple - just follow the A12 for almost the whole way , my TomTomGO navigation system was practically redundant. As the name implies the campsite is adjacent to the beach, in fact from the pitch that I am on at the moment the beach is only about 10 metres away, but there is a wide expanse of shingle and scrub before you get to the sea. Seems an ideal location, although I can imagine it being a bit inhospitable in an Easterly gale. After arriving at the site just after midday and having lunch, I walked South along the path which runs by the site at the back of the beach returning North along the shore line to Kessingland and the campsite. As usual my first venture out was to see the potential for walks and cycle rides. From the point I reached to the South of the site there is a nature reserve and plenty of potential for walking and bird-watching. I had thought of cycling to Lowestoft but it would appear that the beach path North might take me all the way to Lowestoft, so I might not have to risk the dangers of the local roads on my bike to get there - only the threat of the North Sea. The weather was bright and sunny all day (not what was forecast) and out of the wind, quite warm - but - there was a fairly brisk Northerly wind and this is East-Anglia, so it was fairly cool walking along the shore.

Monday 16 May

The decision as to whether to visit Lowestoft by cycle or foot was made for me by the weather, or at least the weather forecast. The forecast was that by mid-day rain would arrive in the area and while I could be reasonably certain of making the return trip by cycle within that time, to walk would probably take me to mid-afternoon. So I cycled - and the weather forecast turned out to be correct, rain commencing at 12:30 pm, and continuing all afternoon, by which time I was back in the warm and dry of the motorcaravan. There is a (signposted) cycle route from Kessingland Village to the centre of Lowestoft and so therefore it should have been quite simple to follow this to my destination - but I am getting used to these semi-urban cycle routes and so I now know that things will not turn out this way. You may have noted that I enclosed the word "signposted" within brackets - quite deliberately - the route was well signposted for most of the route but with one major exception. On arriving at a large roundabout on the outskirts of Lowestoft I had many cycle paths to chose from and not one of them had any indication of where they were leading too! After consulting a map (downloaded from the Sustrans website) I chose the path which seemed to link up with a route to the city centre but after about half a mile where I expected to turn right I discovered that the route which I had hoped to join was way above my head on a bridge over the road I was travelling alongside. So, risking life and limb, I took to the roads until I was able to rejoin the cycle path, further towards the centre of the town. I did discover the route I should have taken on the way back, simply by following quiet back roads to the aforementioned roundabout - but there were no signs. Now I know the route it would be fairly straightforward to follow it again but this experience is, I find, fairly typical of the lack of joined-up thinking that goes into defining cycle routes by local authorities. My stay in Lowestoft was a fairly brief one. A walk through the main shopping area and to the end of the pier, while all the while keeping and eye on the gathering clouds above. The harbour now seem practically empty, apart from a small marina crammed into one corner, in contrast to my youthful memory of if being full of trawlers. The weather forecast for tomorrow is better - should be dry all day - but the cold Northerly wind remains, another reminder of childhood in East Anglia.

Tuesday 17 May

I drove about 15 miles South from the campsite to the RSPB Nature Reserve at Minsmere, after waiting for a very heavy rain shower to pass in the morning. Minsmere is one of the best known of the RSPB Reserves and attracts many human visitors, even on cold and rainy days like this one. The birds, being even less concerned about the weather than humans, flock here in their thousands thanks to many years of management of the area by the RSPB. My previous visits here have never disappointed in respect of being able to see a large variety of bird species within a relatively small area - in the year 2004 the RSPB counted 235 different species visiting the site during the year and already this year they have recorded 196. But this visit exceeded all possible expectations. I am not a "twitcher", one of those that collects and records sightings of bird species as others might collect train numbers, but I do derive some pleasure in seeing something rare, or at least new to me. The first, first, for me of the day was the sight of four cranes flying high overhead - I doubt if I would have spotted them but for very excited enthusiast running out along one of the main paths from the visitors' centre telling everyone he saw of the sighting. The second event was seeing several (five in total I think) marsh harriers flying over the reed beds or sitting patiently on poles thoughtfully provided by the RSPB. But the final events surpassed all that went before. You may be aware that the bittern is a very rare bird in Britain, only just surviving extinction in the second half of the twentieth century, and even when they are present they are normally only "observed" by their distinctive booming call - they concealed themselves very well in reed beds. So as I approach the new Bittern Hide, after a cup of tea and a snack to warm up at lunch time, I had little expectation of actually seeing one of these birds. But within about two to three minute someone in the hide spotted three bitterns flying just to the right of the hide, everyone watched in amazement as the circled around for about five minutes in front of the hide before descending into the reed bed some distance away. Most of the people in the hide departed soon after this, contented with what I suspect was also their first sighting of the bird but also in trepidation of the imminent arrival of a small school party. But I lingered for a while longer and was rewarded by the sight of five bitterns in flight (probably the earlier three joined by two others) who passed the hide and and then flew away. A good day, not spoiled by the cold wind and occasional rain shower. I returned to the campsite late in the afternoon quite contentedly.

Wednesday 18 May

Much better weather greeted me this morning, bright sunshine, not a hint of rain and the cold Northerly wind had been replaced by one from a Westerly direction, still not exactly warm but better than previous days. Encouraged by the weather, I cycled South to Southwold in the morning, even venturing out in shorts for the first time this year. I did not take a direct route but one that avoided almost entirely major roads and therefore nearly all traffic - except for the five coach convoy that I met on a single track road! I have no idea what distance I covered but it was a pleasant and relaxed ride without any significant hills or headwinds to contend with and so therefore no stress for an aging cyclist. I had a short wander around Southwold, including what now seems to be an obligatory trip to the end of the pier - why - well, because its there! I also spent some time on a seafront bench staring out at the North Sea and getting quite warm in the sun and shelter from the off-shore breeze. My return journey was by a more direct route, but still avoiding the main A12, getting back to the campsite for a late lunch at about 1:30pm. After refreshment, I walked South along the beach again to the nature reserve that I found on my first day here. It was something of a disappointment, a reserve is owned by English Nature but clearly not managed by them, or anyone else, and, apart from rabbits, almost entirely devoid of wildlife. But another pleasant walk - although by now the weather had grown overcast with rain threatening and an increasingly strong wind was blowing again, but this time from the South.

Thursday 19 May

I travelled from the campsite at Kessingland to the Broadlands Caravan Club campsite which is situated on the A1062 at Ludham Bridge, between the villages of Ludham and Horning in the county of Norfolk. As the name of the campsite suggests, it is in the heart of the Norfolk Broads. It is a campsite that I have visited twice before and, although there is not much in the vicinity of the site, it does provide an excellent base for cycling in the area, weather permitting. There is only about thirty miles between the two campsite and so a leisurely journey in the latter part of the morning (A12, A47, A1064, B1152,A149 and A1062) with a stop for provisions at Tesco's in Lowestoft, saw me arriving almost exactly at mid-day. Just after my arrival the first rain shower arrived and was followed by several more at irregular intervals during the afternoon. Apart from a short stroll around the the immediate vicinity of the campsite to see if anything had changed since I was last there (nothing had), I decided on a lazy afternoon in the shelter of the motorcaravan. Just as well I brought several books with me!

Friday 20 May

The weather did not bode well for cycling, intermittent rain was forecast and that was the way the day started. However I decided to press ahead with my plan of cycling around the minor roads to the North-East of the campsite. My journey took me to Ludham Village through Hickling and on to Sea Palling on the coast. Then a short distance around the coast to Waxham, reviving memories of my youth as this was a favourite destination of mine for cycle rides from my home in Norwich. Doubling back on myself, through Sea Palling again and on to Stalham, then South through Sutton, Catfield and How Hill back to Ludham and the campsite. This was accomplished fairly effortlessly in the morning (well this part of Norfolk is quite flat) and so I was back at the campsite in time for lunch. The weather - well is was a bit drizzly for most of the the time but in only rained enough to soak me on one occasion and then the sun came out immediately after and I was dry again in about 10 minutes - so not too bad then. In the early afternoon I cycled the short distance in to Horning and spent some time watching the boats and ducks go by on the river. I know, its an exciting life I lead! Then back to the campsite to enjoy a bit of relaxation in the sun, yes it did eventually put in an appearance and by the late afternoon it was quite hot. I think wearing the shorts again might have been a mistake - sunburnt knees!

Saturday 21 May

A bright sunny start to the day, but the forecast predicted rain later. My cameras have been feeling a bit neglected again so I thought I would take one of them for a walk and at the same time record a few images of the area. In the morning I walked to the nearby ruin of St Benet's Abbey, a Benedictine monastery founded in 1020 and, while not dissolved by Henry VIII, it fell into decay in the 16th century. Although it is nearby to the campsite, but that is as the crow flies - and crows can fly over rivers, dykes, fences and private farmland - I had to keep to roads and footpaths which meant a walk of about a mile and a half. Not much remains of the Abbey or the monastery, but what there was I photographed. The most prominent (and most photogenic) remain is of the ruined 14th century gatehouse which has been incorporated into an 18th century windmill. The site of the Abbey is on high ground rising magnificently at least one metre above the surrounding flat terrain - which brings it up approximately to sea level - presumably just enough to keep the monk's feet dry. I returned to the campsite for lunch, but just as I was about to start another walk in the afternoon (this time it was to be up-river) some very dark clouds appeared over the horizon, all seemingly heading in my direction. So after venturing not more than 100 yards along the river bank I returned to the campsite and stayed there. A wise choice as intermittent heavy rain, with occasional thunder and lightning, then continued all afternoon.

Sunday 22 May

Another bright but blustery day with no forecast of rain. In the morning I cycled around minor roads to the North-West of the campsite. Through Horning then North to Irstead, skirting the Western side of Barton Broad through Neatishead to Barton Turf. A change of direction to head South-West to Coltishall then East back to Horning and the campsite. It was a very leisurely cycle ride, pausing at several staithes and river banks on the way to sit for a while on a conveniently placed bench and watch the world go by - well yes, a few boats and ducks go by. Back to the campsite for lunch. As the weather was still holding fine I decided to try again for the walk I abandoned yesterday afternoon, along the riverbank, upstream, to How Hill. I discovered a very overgrown path with lots of thistles and nettles (fortunately I had changed out of the shorts I was wearing in the morning) and, within sight of How Hill, a notice announced that the footpath was closed with no alternative suggested. So all I could do was to turn round an retrace my steps, which is what I had intended to do but I hoped that this would be after having reached How Hill. But despite these grumbles, it was an interesting walk with many birds to watch (the Broads Authority are starting to create a nature reserve in this location to encourage the return of the bittern) with lapwings particularly prominent and hundreds, possibly millions (I didn't count), of insects, the iridescent blue damsel fly to the fore here. Not a drop of rain all day.

Monday 23 May

Time to move on the last campsite for this trip, but as this was only a short distance away in Norwich there was time to fit more into the day. After leaving the campsite at Ludham Bridge I drove to the RSPB nature reserve at Strumpshaw Fen which is situated about 5 miles East of Norwich on the River Yare. As it name implies the reserve is mainly a managed fen with extensive reed beds but there are also wet meadows, grazing meadows, scrub and wet woodland. In fact a similar mix to the Minsmere reserve I visited last week, but less extensive in area and more recently established so therefore less potential for seeing large numbers of birds. A bittern is recorded as having been seen and heard on the reserve over the past few days, but I was not lucky enough to see one again, or hear it. There seems to be a theme running through this present East Anglian journey - possibly I should give it a title, say of "The Bittern Adventure" or something similar - but maybe not! A pleasant morning was spent at the reserve, in the sunshine, before moving on the Camping and Caravanning Club campsite in Norwich. The campsite is situated on the Southern outskirts of the City in Old Lakenham. It is a campsite I have visited before and, as some of you reading this will be aware, the City of Norwich is not unfamiliar to me either, having lived the first twenty years of my life there. I short walk around the immediate vicinity of the campsite was all I attempted in the afternoon, but I did successfully locate what I think is a fairly new cycle track into the centre of the City from this locality, at least I was not aware of it at my last stay on this campsite - and when I lived in Norwich it was a railway line! This will be investigated more fully tomorrow, weather permitting.

Tuesday May 24

A rather dismal day in respect of the weather, overcast, a strong cold wind and occasional showers. As intended I did investigate the cycle route into the city centre that I found yesterday, but on foot not by cycle. There were reasons for this decision - but I wont bore you with them. The intention was to do some shopping and to take some photographs; I succeeded in the first intent but the weather conditions prevailed against the second. Therefore rather than spending all day in the city, I was only there during the morning, returning to the campsite for lunch. The weather did not tempt me out again and the remainder of the day was spent reading and "housekeeping" in the motorcaravan.

Wednesday 25 May

A promising start to the day from the weather encouraged me back on to the cycle again. This time I cycled into the city centre using the new found cycle path from Lakenham and wended my way across the city to a traffic free cycle route leading North-West from the city called The Marriotts Way. It starts from the inner ring-road as a tarmac path running alongside the River Wensum. From the outskirts of the city it becomes a gravel track which for the most part provides a good sound surface, only muddy in one or two places. The Way actually runs as far as Aylsham, but that was I beyond my aspirations so I settled for a round trip to Reepham, getting back to the campsite for a late lunch at about 2pm. I have known about this cycle route for some time, but this was my first venture along it. When I lived in Norwich it was still in use as a railway line; I seem to recall travelling to Wells on a train on this line when I was very young. Surprisingly it survived the Beecham cuts and was still in use until 1985, although only for "goods" by then. It passes areas that I knew well in my youth; Hellesdon Mill - where use to fish for minnows and sticklebacks to keep in a jam jar; Felthorpe Wood - where I cycled to, to collect sweet chestnuts in Autumn; Reepham - which I always I always seemed to travel through while learning to drive (I did live just off the Reepham Road in Norwich). So a morning of reminiscences and a thoroughly satisfactory cycle ride (except when the chain came off, but I wouldn't want to spoil my nostalgic narrative by mentioning that - Oops I have!) The weather in the morning was ideal for cycling, a bit overcast but not cold with the sun threatening to come out, but that would have made it too warm. On arriving back at the campsite the sun did make a prolonged appearance - so I could then relax in its warmth.

Thursday 26 May

Travelled home by the direct route (for a change) of the A11 and M11, arriving back in time for lunch. A warm day gradually getting quite hot as I neared London.

June 2005

Sunday 12 June

Travelled from home to the Caravan Club Campsite at Minehead, Somerset. For a change I took the more obvious route to the West via the M25, M4, M5 and the A39 - the Western part of the M25, the M4 and the M5 are normally roads I avoid, but much to my surprise the traffic was not too bad and there were no hold-ups. I was also able to test the low fuel warning light on the van for the first time - it works! This was due to me being reluctant to pay the exorbitant price being charge for fuel at the motorway service area I stopped at (another reason why I tend to avoid those roads) and then not finding a service station for quite some time after leaving the motorway - but with fuel at 5p per litre cheaper for over 60 litres it was probably worth it. The van also clocked up its first 10,000 miles during the journey and that in two and a half years - so you can own a large thirsty vehicle and still be relatively "green". This was my first visit to the Minehead campsite (and to Minehead). The site is situated on the outskirts of the town in what appears to be an old quarry. It is quite small but all the facilities seem up to the normal Caravan Club standard. Its not too far off the A39 but so far it seems relatively quiet. I arrived at the site just after 1pm and having made good progress decided not to stop for lunch on the way. So after a quick bite to eat on the campsite this left me the afternoon to investigate Minehead on foot. The route I took (which I think was fairly direct) left me with the impression of not one medium sized town but several clearly defined small towns. First, the suburban area in which the campsite is situated could be just about anywhere in England, then, suddenly, a small market town with small and medium sized shops (mostly closed as it was a Sunday), followed by the first indications of a "holiday" town (restaurants, cafes and pubs) gradually descending into the worst excesses of an English seaside town (slot machine arcades, "amusements", and fast "food" - all open as it was a Sunday) as you approached the seafront and Butlins. I walked along the front in the opposite direction to Butlins as far as the harbour to get away from the "excesses". Possibly a slightly jaundiced view of the town, but its the surrounding countryside that I'm really here for - the Coastal Path and Exmoor - so hardly surprising. I've been told that you become more opinionated as you get older - but I find that difficult to believe!

Monday 13 June

I didn't mention the weather yesterday - it was dry and, on reaching my destination, quite sunny at times, but with a cool North-Westerly wind. It was more of the same today and after some cloud to begin with, very sunny for the rest of the day, although the wind was still there. In the morning I walked East from the campsite, through the village of Alcombe continuing on a small narrow road to the village of Dunster. I should imagine that Dunster was a very pleasant village before two curses of the twentieth century descended upon it - the motorcar; a busy "A" road runs through the village - and the "campaign to get my village on the front of a chocolate box" - the two curses do not sit happily together but the village still retains a certain charm that attracts many visitors. Dominating the village is the main reason for my venture in this direction - Dunster Castle. The original Norman Motte and Bailey Castle is long gone but the gardens of the present house still retain its form on the ground. The present house is mainly 19th century based on an original of the 17th century, with some original features retained. The gatehouse and Tenants' Hall are all that remain of an earlier 15th century fortified structure. But it is its location that impresses most, commanding the entrance to the valley of the River Anvil leading inland to Exmoor, the coast for miles in both directions along the Bristol Channel and the Channel itself with clear views across to Wales. So after exploring village, "castle" and gardens in the morning, and with the weather improving all the time, I decided to gain a better view of the countryside by a higher level walk back to Minehead. Ascending out of the village to Grabbist Hill, I took a well defined and signposted bridleway along a ridge which runs parallel with the coast, inland of Minehead. This route afforded good views of Minehead, the Bristol Channel and Wales to the North and Exmoor to the South. My "morning" walk ended at about 2pm when I arrived back at the campsite for a very late lunch and time to relax.

Tuesday 14 June

The promise of dry weather today and the threat of rain tomorrow led me to the choice of this day for my longest walk during my stay at Minehead rather than tomorrow. The forecast was correct although the sun only survived for the early part of the morning with gathering clouds looking more and more threatening - but it was an empty threat. During the past !!! years I have walked various part of the South West Coast Path during my visits to the Peninsular - but Minehead is where it starts (or finishes depending on which direction you walk it in!) - so this opportunity could not be missed. I have often complained of poor signposting on various paths but the start of the SWC Path cannot be missed, being marked by a metal sculpture (see photo) with very clear directions marked on the pavement. Unfortunately this standard drops to the normal abysmal standard after less than 100 yards - a tiny acorn symbol on a timber post tucked behind a hedge marks the first turning point and could be easily missed. The path quickly ascends by a zigzag path to cliffs overlooking the harbour and continues to ascend via a track through woodland which seemed to be more extensive than marked on my OS Map - no real opportunities for photos. The signposting, which was at best sporadic, then let me down entirely at a junction of four paths just after emerging from the woodland - vandalism being the most likely cause here as there were posts but the "fingers" had disappeared. What subsequently became clear is that I did not take the intended route of the SWC Path as is was marked on the OS Map I had, but a coastal path which kept more closely to the cliff top - no signs but a maintained and very clear path which eventually led me to my intended destination, although not marked in any way on the 1994 OS Map I was using! So did I walk the SWC Path? Has it's route changed? I probably need to consult an up to date map to find out. But I did arrive a Hurlstone Point (where SWC Path signs were evident again) and from there headed inland through Bossington and on to Porlock, the intended destination. [On my return home, I checked the latest OS map as shown on the OS website and this does show the path that I followed as closest to the coast here - but it is not the designated SWC path.] The more circuitous path I had taken, with considerably more undulation than the apparently level ridge route of the marked SWC Path, caused me to arrived considerably later in Porlock than I had intended (about 1:30pm). I had also intended to walk back, via an inland route, but the time, the threatening weather and the fact that I had already covered more distance than intended led be to take an easier option. There is a bus service between Porlock and Minehead, so after a look around Porlock (a bit disappointing) I caught the bus back to Minehead and returned to the campsite by about 2:30pm for an extremely late lunch. And that was it for the day!

Wednesday 15 June

As I awoke it seemed that the weather forecast had been accurate as I was greeted by torrential rain. This persisted for the early part of the morning but, strangely, stopped just as I was setting out from the campsite adequately dressed for inclement weather. Apart from the odd short shower, that was the end of the rain for the day and my waterproof proved almost entirely redundant. My knees having taken the strain for the past two days of walking, particularly yesterday, I decided to let the "train take the strain" today. There is a preserved railway which runs from Minehead almost as far as Taunton, The West Somerset Railway, which operates regular train services during the summer months, mostly hauled by steam locomotives. So I bought a return ticket to Taunton (the last few miles by bus) and enjoyed a day of relaxed travelling with a brief stop for lunch in Taunton. I don't know whether its nostalgia or the little boy in me, but steam railways still have a strange fascination for me - the sight, sound and smell of a steam locomotive working all seem to evoke this. I'm sorry I have no photos to show for this as the several changes of mind as to what clothing was going to be suitable for the weather, caused me to leave my small camera in the pocket of a jacket I left behind in the motorcaravan! I consoled myself with the knowledge that, travelling on the train, there would be very few photographs which I could have taken which could adequately capture my experience of the day - a souvenir guide I bought probably serves this purpose better. I left the campsite at about 9:15 in the morning and returned at about 5:45 in the afternoon having had a thoroughly enjoyable day out.

Thursday 16 June

Time to move on to the next campsite. In the morning a drove from Minehead to the Caravan Club Campsite at St Agnes Beacon in Cornwall. South on the A396 across Exmore then West on the A30 across Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor, then finally the B3272 to the village of St Agnes. The campsite is located about a mile to the West of the village on the other side of St Agnes Beacon, the prominent hill from which the site takes its name. The campsite itself, while lower than the Beacon, is on fairly high ground with good views to the sea and the coastline stretching as far West as St Ives - or so I'm told (see weather below!) I have experienced the localised weather conditions of the the South West Peninsular before but today summed up all these experiences. The weather forecast said mainly dry and overcast - but it was a day to ignore that. The morning started bright and sunny in Minehead, - but a persistent drizzly rain coming, seemingly, from a blue sky! Looking inland the reason for this became apparent with low cloud hanging over the hills of Exmoor, the way I was heading. The further I travelled into Exmore, the heavier the rain became and the mist turned to fog. Descending from Exmoor, following the meandering path of the River Ex (actually following the road that followed the river, if you see what I mean - but sometimes there seemed very little difference) the fog and rain were left behind and the sun reappeared as I was travelling through the outskirts of Exeter. Ascending again to Dartmoor, the fog and rain returned, but this time fog was very thick in places. This weather pattern persisted across Bodmin Moor and although the rain was left behind, fog or mist was with me to my destination. Hence my comments about the view. Once the mist clears I should have an excellent view from my motorcaravan but at the moment its virtually impossible to see the horizon between sea and sky and the coastline is just vague shapes in the mist. I arrived at the campsite at about 1pm and after lunch had, what is now, my customary stroll around the roads surrounding the campsite, taking in the village of St Agnes and also the ruins of a tin mine, Wheal Coats, which is situated on the cliff tops below the campsite only a few hundred yards away. There are many similar remains of the tin mining industry in the area and, given some better weather, there should be plenty of opportunities for coastal photography without venturing far from the campsite.

Friday 17 June

Initially there did not seem much change in the weather. Still very misty to start with but this slowly started to lift, although it never disappeared - but the sea/sky horizon could just be discerned (not as a line but a graduation from grey to a lighter grey) and the outline of the coast stretching West appeared (in shades of grey and blue). The main change was the temperature, with a lack of wind it became quite warm and humid although the sun was not seen all day. A day of walking, well strolling really as I didn't exactly exert myself much. In the morning I took the coast path East to just beyond St Agnes Head (all of which was fairly level), returning by the same route then continuing West (and down) on a path to Chapel Porth, a small beach with a car park and cafe which seemed fairly popular with surfers. After a cup of tea I returned to the campsite following a slightly different path, passing more of the Wheal Coats Mine on my ascent. A few photographs of the misty coastline, but hopefully the conditions will improve for more photographs later during my stay. In the afternoon I ascended St Agnes Beacon, not a great feat of mountaineering but, as mentioned before, just a gentle stroll. It is only 192 metres in altitude above sea level but it is considerably higher than anything else in the vicinity and so affords a superb 360 degree view of the surrounding countryside and sea. By this time the mist was at its thinnest but the overcast conditions did not make for spectacular photographs. I returned via the coast path again for a few more photographs, mainly of the abundant heather and wild flowers that were growing on the cliff tops. Returning to the campsite by mid-afternoon that completed my "activities" for the day, but in the humid conditions that had developed by then I wouldn't have wanted to be more active.

Saturday 18 June

A Southerly wind got up early in the morning and blew all the clouds and most of the mist away leaving us with a blazing hot sun for the whole of the day. The wind meant that the humidity was gone and out of the wind (which was difficult to achieve) it was very hot. Some on the campsite exposed a lot of very white skin to the sun and by now, in the evening, I should imagine it is very red - I think I got the balance right staying in the shade during the middle of the day, time will tell. Having complained about the poor conditions for photography over the past few days, I decided that I could not miss out on the opportunity that the low clear early morning sun presented me with. Before 10am I had re-visited many of the areas close to the campsite, Wheal Coats Mine and the coast between St Agnes Head and Chapel Porth, to take (or re-take in some cases) lots of photographs. Then back to the campsite to complete my "housekeeping" chores on the motorcaravan which were left in abeyance. I think it was worthwhile as, although the sun remained bright for the rest of the day, the mist tended to return. As mentioned above, I decided not to venture out again until well past mid-day, although the sun was still very hot at 2pm. I walked the coastal path (yes walked this time not strolled) Westward from the campsite through Chapel Porth, on to Porthtowan and then returned by a similar route. What can I say about Porthtowan - probably best to say very little apart from commenting that it was a sunny Saturday, there is a large beach which attracts surfers and sun worshippers. It served as a reminder to me as to why, many years ago, I started to visit Cornwall "out of season" in the Autumn. Needless to say I didn't tarry too long and hastened to return to the restful atmosphere of a lonely coastal path. I mentioned that I returned by a similar route. Much of the coastal margin here, cliffs and beaches, are owned by the National Trust and "open access" has operated well in advance of it becoming official for this part of England later this year. There are therefore many well defined/worn paths to chose from when walking in the area without any chance of getting lost. On my return, before descending into Chapel Porth it was possible to see various options to chose from on, laid out before me like a map on the opposite slope and to plan an alternative route accordingly.

Sunday 19 June

Even before I opened the blinds of my motorcaravan I sensed that the weather had changed. There was no wind and everything outside seemed very quiet - yes the fog had returned. It was so thick that the hedge on the other side of the campsite, about 50 yards away from me, was lost from view. The fog persisted until about mid-day when the wind returned and the fog lifted, but it was still overcast for most of the afternoon - the sun did not put in an appearance until after 4pm. So thoughts of a long walk along the coastal path, which runs very close to the edge of high cliffs in this area, were not only pointless but potentially life threatening. So after lunch, with the fog gone, I set out on a shorter walk Eastward on the coastal path, past St Agnes Head again but continuing to Trevaunance Cove, returning by road through the village of St Agnes. This cove and its beach was on a similar scale to Chapel Porth and although some small shops lined the road leading to the Cove from St Agnes, there was not the commercialisation that I saw yesterday at Porthtowan. Of course the weather had not encouraged as many people out as the hot sun yesterday, but even on such a day I think I would find Trevaunance Cove a more pleasant place to be that Porthtowan. The small but adaptable wardrobe that travels with me in the motorcaravan coped admirably with the changeable weather. The shorts and tee-shirt of yesterday giving way to walking trousers and fleece top today - the experience of years of holidaying in Great Britain has taught me to be prepared for any weather at any time of year.

Monday 20 June

Bright sunshine all day but with a fresh breeze to keep the temperature comfortable. Hearing on the radio about sweltering temperatures in London and the South-East and torrential downpours in Yorkshire over the weekend it seems that I made the right decision to visit Cornwall. My move of campsite location today was from the North Coast of Cornwall to the South Coast of Cornwall; to Veryan and the Camping and Caravan Club situated near that village - well fairly near, a mile and three quarters according to the signpost near the site. Its also about a mile or so inland from the coast. Probably one of the largest C&CC site I have visited with its own private fishing lake. As the journey between campsites was fairly short, I had time to fit in two visits on route and a boat trip(!). The first visit was to Tescos in Truro, which I wont dwell upon, but the second was to the National Trust Gardens at Trelissick. This was a return visit to the gardens for me, although I think it was 7 or 8 years ago when I was last here. A restful hour and a half walking in the gardens more than compensated for the frenzied shopping at Tesco. The boat trip? Well it was actually the ferry across the River Fal at Trelissick, the King Harry Ferry (no relation to Brian!), which saved about twenty miles on my journey to the campsite. By road would have necessitated a wide circuit back through Truro. After arriving at the campsite and completing my lunch I only had time for a stroll around the campsite and the lanes immediately adjacent, locating the local footpaths. I suspect that I may have to walk to and from the coast using the roads (narrow and fairly busy) as I do not hold out a great deal of hope for the footpaths. I think I have been spoilt on the last campsite having almost immediate access to the coastal path.

Tuesday 21 June

Bright sunshine again today but without the breeze in the morning making it hotter than yesterday. The breeze and some cloud appeared in the afternoon but it remained dry and bright, if a little cooler. My plan was to walk part of the coastal path in the morning before the day became too hot for this activity in the afternoon - but as you see the weather decided to play a trick on me! But I had started before a realised how the day would turn out so carried on with the plan. On further investigation of a footpath close to the campsite my fears of yesterday were dispelled as I found this did lead, on reasonably well defined tracks, across arable fields towards the coast, thus minimising the amount of road walking. The path led me to the fishing village of Portloe, a small, unspoilt village centred around a cove which formed a natural harbour. The absence of a beach or large car park has probably been its protection from excessive commercialisation. Having had a look around the village and cove, and taken a few photographs, I then started my walk Eastwards on the coastal path. The path was easy going in some places but difficult in others, fairly steep in places, overgrown in others and, where vegetation had been recently cut back and dried grass still laid on on the path, quite slippery. The difficulties, combined with the increasingly (and unexpected) hot morning led to fairly slow progress and long before I reached it I had decided that the next village along the coast, Portholland, would be the extent of my walk. I had considered going on a bit further but would have returned there anyway. Portholland is a tiny village, with a beach, but very difficult to gain access to by vehicle. The only sign of commercialism here was a house overlooking the harbour selling teas and coffees through its front door. A much needed rest was taken here on a conveniently sited bench by the harbour and very close to a cliff where some fulmars were perched. My return was about 2 miles of very narrow lanes, back to the campsite. The lane from Portholland initially ascended the valley of a small stream and contained a few houses all with long thin gardens which were immaculately kept - one even contained a model railway track which ran for some considerable distance. Fortunately not one vehicle was seen for most of this journey back until I rejoined the road on which the campsite is located. For the whole of the walk the sun had been beating down but almost as soon as I returned to the campsite, at about 1pm, the clouds started to roll in. So tomorrow do I walk in the morning or afternoon - I think I'll toss a coin!

Wednesday 22 June

Hot and sunny all day - so pointless tossing a coin. I kept to my normal pattern of walking mainly in the morning, but I knew that this was to be a longer walk than normal so a packed lunch was required. I started out as yesterday following the path down to Portloe on the coast. From there I headed West past Broom Parc (a location used by the TV series "Camomile Lawn") around The Blouth and Kiberick Cove, and on to Nare Head - where I had my lunch. The path was relatively easy for most of the way, the only steep climbs being out of Portloe and Kiberick Cove. I was grateful for a gentle on-shore breeze for this stage of the walk which made the heat of the sun bearable - just. Having rounded Nare Head I then continued along the coast path to Carne Beach and unfortunately left the breeze behind, thanks to the shelter of Nare Head. A rest was called for on a bench overlooking the beach, solely for the purpose of recovering my strength for the next climb I hasten to add and not to ogle at all the scantily clad ladies stretched out before me on that beach - but I couldn't avert my eyes entirely. The climb was by road leading from the beach towards Veryan. Before I reached that village I took a small diversion by footpath to visit Carne Beacon which, according to The National Trust "is one of the largest Bronze age barrows in Cornwall". I was not particularly impressed, apart from the views it afforded from the top. Back on the road which led me to the delightful village of Veryan. Like many of the villages I have seen in this area it seems totally unspoilt and boasts two unusual feature, some round houses and a shady ornamental pool set in public gardens. The latter provided another welcome stopping point for cooling down. From here it was all level roads back to the campsite where I arrived soon after 2pm.

Thursday 23 June

Another hot, dry sunny day. Something more relaxing for today after all this (energetic?) walking. I drove from the campsite to Helligan, only a relatively short distance away, to see for the first time the "Lost Gardens of Helligan". The name now seems slightly misleading - they were lost, were rediscovered and, to a large extent, recreated and are now found by many thousands of people on every day of the year, so the use of the word "lost" in the title is slightly outdated. I remember seeing some TV programs on the gardens in the early 90's and hearing of the seemingly ambitious project to restore a totally overrun and derelict garden. To see it now, in what must be a virtually complete state of restoration, is quite amazing. Photographs dotted around serve to remind you of the state in which the garden was found and these are needed as it now seems incredible to imagine that the garden was ever lost as it compares favourably with many gardens in the area (such as Trelissick owned by the NT) which have not suffered a 75 year break in their care and attention. I spent all morning there from the time it opened at 10am until about 2pm - there were still areas I hadn't investigated but, as I said, I wanted something more relaxing for today and that more than sufficed. As I mentioned the distance from the campsite was not great but did involve travelling down many of the narrow lanes with high banks and hedges either side, which are typical of this area of Cornwall. However, there are narrow and very narrow roads, and maps and navigation systems do not distinguish the two. I found one such very narrow road which was just the width of the motorcaravan, but the overgrown vegetation on either side made it less - this added to the collection of minor (I hope) scratches on both sides of the van. Fortunately I did not meet and other vehicle on this road only a stray dog which seemed to pass by unscathed. I found an alternative longer route back to the campsite - not wise to take the direct route in this part of Cornwall!

Friday 24 June

The weather changed quite dramatically last night. Just after midnight the first distant rumbles of thunder were heard from the West. There then followed about five hours of thunder, lightening and rain all of which had moved Eastwards by the time I arose for breakfast. I don't think we suffered from too much rain on the campsite (I think that was all being stored up for the Glastonbury Festival later in the morning) but a decided chill had returned and this, and overcast conditions, prevailed all day. In the morning I travelled from Veryan to the Camping and Caravanning Club Campsite at Lydford in Devon, on the Western edge of Dartmoor. I had visited this campsite only two years ago (see diary for Autumn 2003) but returned to, hopefully, do some walking on Dartmoor which somehow I managed to omit on that previous visit. The campsite is quite small, particularly in comparison with the Veryan site I just left, and the facilities fairly limited but its the location that is important for this site. The hopes of walking were dealt an immediate blow as I was approaching Dartmoor as I could see that the low cloud was enveloping all the high ground - and it still is in the evening as I write this - only once did I get a short glimpse of the Moor from the campsite. Walking on Dartmoor in this fog does not appeal to me! In the afternoon I took a short walk to the other end of the village of Lydford and in particular to the NT shop which is at the entrance to Lydford Gorge (which I investigated on my last visit) to look for local walks books. Having bought one and read some of the listed routes that are not too far from the campsite I'm not certain its going to be on much use - back to the OS map! Lets hope the weather relents and allows me a walk or two on the next few days before I return home.

Saturday 25 June

The fog/low cloud was even thicker this morning and initially showed no signs of relenting. A brief occasional sighting of the sun was all that was seen until mid-afternoon when the cloud pulled back for a while, but by evening it was back again. No rain however. In view of the weather I decided to postpone any thoughts of Dartmoor for the morning. I therefore paid a return visit to Lydford Gorge as I knew it was a pleasant place for a walk for free (for NT Members), it was impossible to get lost in (well signposted paths) and the topography of the Gorge limits your view to about 50 yards anyway so a fog is of no consequence. My last attempts at photography in the Gorge (see Autumn 2003) were not particularly successful due to low light levels so I did not attempt too much on this return - a few moody, misty shots were captured though which possibly improve on those taken two years ago. After lunch back at the campsite, the weather having brightened somewhat (although the Moor was still obscured by cloud), I walked around some of the lanes and paths immediately around the campsite. On my final venture, along a bridleway leading East from Lydford to area called High Down, the sun started to break though and the cloud recede, I had my first sight of one of the nearest Tors on the Moor - but no camera with me! By the time I returned to the campsite the sun was blazing down - but it only lasted for an hour or so. The weather forecast for tomorrow sound fairly promising so lets hope I make it on to the Moor then.

Sunday 26 June

When I awoke I could see that the sky overhead was bright, mainly blue and virtually cloudless, then I looked towards the Moor and all I could see was a cloud obscuring it. I thought it was just a myth propagated by a certain genre of film - Dartmoor enveloped in its own microclimate of cloud and fog while they world outside remained fine and sunny - but its true, I've seen it now with my own eyes. However, to my relief, as I was breakfasting and readying myself for the day, the cloud and fog rolled back revealing Dartmoor clearly from the campsite for the first time. It then stayed sunny and bright for the whole of the day and although there remained a cool wind from the North at the start of the day, this slowly eased to a breeze. So at last, off to walk on Dartmoor. By now I'd had plenty of time to think about the route I was going to take and quite amazingly I followed this fairly closely. From the campsite I took the road which leads back up to the main A386, straight across this road and down a lane by the side of the Dartmoor Inn and on to High Down. From there, crossing the River Lyd by stepping stones, I followed a rather indistinct bridleway which ascends between Arms Tor and Bray Tor. A short detour to Bray Tor to get a closer look at the Widgery Cross which surmounts this Tor (I have yet to discover the significance of this). I then continued the climb on the bridleway which started an anticlockwise circuit of the highest Tor in the area, Great Links Tor. The route then descends into the head of another valley and passes the ruins of a very isolated house called Bleak House. It then ascends this valley and joins a track way which, having crested another ridge, descends in a wide circuit crossing the higher reaches of the River Lyd and returns close to the stepping stone referred to previously. I had left the campsite soon after 9am and returned at about 1pm. A satisfying walk, even if I did get a little too much exposure to the sun. I decided after that walk I deserved a lazy afternoon in the shade - and that's what I had.

Monday 27 June

Another fine, dry, hot sunny day - but the forecast says that this will change overnight with more thunderstorms on the way. The dilemma today was what to do, another day walking on the Moor or a cycle ride on the Granite Way into Oakhampton. The cycle ride I had done before and the Moor therefore beckoned, but against this preference was the state of my walking boots (they have started to fall apart and are now in need of replacement) and the state of my sunburn (yes I definitely did get too much exposure to the sun yesterday). On balance I decided that to cycle was the more rational option rather than risking walking barefoot on Dartmoor with sunstroke. The cycle ride into Oakhampton from Lydford is, on balance, a good one (see my comment in the Autumn 2003 Diary) and on the return I did find a way of avoiding the major diversion by finding a concealed footpath and then risking life and limb for a short distance on the A386. The journey was completed by early afternoon and so there was still plenty of time for another lazy afternoon. Tomorrow I start the journey home. My time of departure and the weather will determine if I complete this journey tomorrow or if I take it in two easy stages.

Tuesday 28 June

A very windy night, but no signs of the thunderstorms although I note that the weather forecast today predicts their arrival somewhat later in the day. Otherwise hot and sunny again. I decided on an early start (before 8am) and travelled home today by the fastest route - A30, M5, M4, M25 and M11, not enjoyable but efficient, enabling me to arrive home and dry soon after 1pm. I gather from the news this evening that the storms arrived on the South coast during the afternoon so I need not have made such an early start, but better safe than sorry. (ps. Just heard the first rumble of thunder here in London a 7:50pm!)

September 2005

Monday 5th September

Start of my early Autumn trip to North Yorkshire. The initial stage of the journey was to Mablethorpe, on the coast of Lincolnshire just North of Skegness. The first part of the route was a familiar one from East London, North on the M11, A14 and A1(M) as far as Peterborough. Then continuing North (the A1 from here starts to veer to the West) on the A16 and then the A1104 to the coast and Mablethorpe. I am staying on the Camping and Caravanning Club's campsite at Mablethorpe, my first visit to this site. It's located inland of the town and is surrounded by very flat farmland, typical of the more Southern areas of this county in the Fens. It seems predominantly arable - seen no sheep or cattle yet [but later discovered] - although the only thing being "farmed" in a field fairly close to the site is the wind. I arrived at the campsite just after 1pm following a fairly uneventful trip. I was following the track of some thunderstorms which had traversed the Eastern Counties overnight and in the early hours of the morning - fortunately I failed to catch them up but the roads were quite wet in places. Unfortunately the campsite was also quite wet when I arrived and it does not have any hardstandings, but a relatively dry, firm pitch was found. The weather was much improved in the afternoon so I went for a walk around the town in the sunshine. It's bigger that I had anticipated, but very much a holiday town. The shopping centre, apart from a Co-op supermarket, consist almost entirely of "amusement arcades", restaurants and "nick-nack shops". I therefore found no difficulty in keeping my wallet safely in my pocket. I wandered up to the the sea front and along the promenade. There is quite a wide expanse of sandy beach here, complete with donkey rides, and I did even notice a few hardy souls bathing in the North Sea. These days I am quite happy to just walk and watch! I don't think I am going to find a great deal to do in the town, so tomorrow I intend to venture further afield on my cycle - and so the latter part of the afternoon was spent giving that a check over and pumping the tyres up.

Tuesday 6th September

A fine, hot and sunny day without even a hint of rain and practically no wind. Must be good for a cycle ride. I initially retraced some of my steps of yesterday by cycle, through Mablethorpe, and then continued North to discover the extent of the town in that direction. It seemed to be the Seal Sanctuary - well at least that's where I turned around and started to head South. I'm undecided about the Seal Sanctuary - the little information I've found out about it so far suggests nothing more than a small zoo with a misleading name - but whatever, that's for another day - possibly. I then cycled back through Mablethorpe initially finding some back roads to follow but eventually joining the main coast road, the A52. This I followed through Trusthorpe and Sutton-on-Sea before being able to take a minor road which kept even closer to the sea. Unfortunately although the road kept to within a quarter of a mile of the sea, it did not afford any views of it, only the line of the sea dunes and sea defences which keep the North Sea at bay in this area. A small diversion just past the golf course at Sandilands did offer an opportunity, by ramp to a sea front car park, to pause and view the beach and the sea. Continuing Southwards through Anderby Creek I reached Chapel St Leonard and Chapel Point in particular. This did offer another chance to see the sea, although on this occasion I had to leave the cycle to ascend some steps to the Point. This seemed to be a good point to turn round and head back, much further and I would have reached Skegness - it was clearly visible from Chapel Point. To begin with I retraced my route along the minor road but by now (late morning) it was becoming noticeably busier that earlier so I headed inland and made my way back to the campsite by a combination of minor roads interspersed by short stretches on some main roads. I arrived back at the campsite at about 12:30 and, in the increasing temperature of the afternoon, only found enough energy for lunch, a siesta and a shower. Not certain what I'm going to do tomorrow - it was even too hot to think about that!

Wednesday 7th September

Another fine dry day, but the cloud cover for the early part of the day and a fresh breeze kept the temperature down to more manageable levels. Having skirted around the centre of Sutton-on-Sea yesterday on my cycle I thought I would take a further look on foot. There seemed to be a footpath which cut across farmland towards Sutton from close to the campsite - well that's what the map showed. However, the well trodden early part of the path proved to be a false dawn. It gave access to the twin waterways (drains) shown on the map and a bridge over the first of these, but not the second. How you access the footpath on the other side (if there is one) I could not see! So I had to turn around and come back to the road. From here I took the road down to the beach again (where I finished my promenade walk on Monday) to see if I could continue along the promenade as far as Sutton. I could - and what's more I found that it is designated as a cycle route so I could have used this yesterday and avoided some of the busier roads! No signs to indicate its start or end just signs on the route once you've found it - but I suppose this is my wishful thinking again looking for logic in the signing of cycle routes. Another pleasant walk along the sea front but, to be honest, not too much to see at Sutton-on-Sea. I arrived back at the campsite at about 12:30 for lunch. I dispensed with the customary afternoon siesta (well it was not as hot as yesterday) and walked into Mablethorpe as I realised I had some shopping to do - one day I will remember to bring everything I need on a camping trip. No photographs yet! Well the area is not particularly photogenic, or interesting for that matter. Flat landscape, flat sea, flat houses (bungalows) and, it seems, not much history to the place. Most of Mablethorpe looks as if it was dropped in as a "job-lot" in the 1950's, only a few houses in the main street look older than that. But it also gives the feeling that no one really cares and everyone is just waiting for global warming to have its affect and allow the North Sea to reclaim this part of Lincolnshire. Come friendly sea and etc..... with apologies to John Betjeman.

Thursday 8th September

Another fine dry day. Although it was rather cloudy after lunch and the sky looked threatening at times, the forecast rain did not arrive. I had no clear plans for the day, nothing that I really wanted to do before departing tomorrow - so, taking my cue from the TV schedules when they're lost for something new to do, I though another repeat would be in order. I therefore cycled the promenade South from Mablethorpe where I had walked yesterday morning - just to see how far I could go (within reason). I passed Sutton-on Sea where my walk had ended yesterday and continued on and reached the sea-front car park just beyond Sandilands golf course that I had visited on Tuesday. Soon after this the promenade, which by then was starting to become difficult to cycle due to wind-blown sand, became impossible to pass so I turned round and headed back. If I had known about this cycle route on Tuesday I could have made even further progress then, possibly even to Skegness, but then what would I have done on Wednesday and Thursday? I was surprised to find that I arrived back at the campsite soon after 11am, such was my progress, and had time to listen to some of the opening day of the Test Match on the radio before lunch. I did manage to tear myself away from the radio however (just after Warne had taken three wickets) to go for a walk in the afternoon. I decided to walk North through Mablethorpe and visit the Seal Sanctuary I discovered earlier in the week. My scepticism about it proved only partly justified. It does act as a sanctuary for injured seals and other local wildlife, but does exhibit them (and other birds and animals) in zoo-like conditions. I couldn't help feeling that some of the enclosures were rather small and poorly constructed but presumably this does provide them [the sanctuary that is] with a revenue to enable them to carry out the animal rescue work. Rolf where are you? My comments about Mablethorpe yesterday were, on reflection, rather harsh. It is quite clearly a very popular family holiday destination with enormous beaches that could never become overcrowded and provides the sort of popular entertainment that such holidaymakers seek. It's just that I don't really fit comfortably into this sort of environment - can't wait to get to the wild open spaces of the North York Moors.

Friday 9th September

I travelled from Mablethorpe to Scarborough in North Yorkshire, via Tesco in Cleethorpes and The Humber Bridge. The weather started out foggy first thing in the morning in Mablethorpe but soon cleared and it was bright sunny and warm for the first part of the journey. However as I crossed the Humber and entered Yorkshire it started to grow misty again and by the time I reached Scarborough the fog had returned. I am staying as the Camping and Caravanning Club's campsite at Scarborough which is located on the Northern outskirts of the town. It is very big site, probably the largest I have stayed on, and seems very well organised. It has got more facilities than I will probably make use of and is situated next to a Brewers Fayre Pub/Restaurant. On the downside, having spent the last four days in Mablethorpe resisting the temptations of the multitude of Fish and Chips shops in that town, I find there is such a shop actually located within the campsite here, open four nights a week and only about 50 yards from my motorcaravan - I will probably succumb, eventually. Having arrived at about 12:30 and thinking a cliff-top walk in an area unknown to me in the fog was probably not advisable, I decided to walk into the centre of Scarborough. This would probably be about 2 miles or so directly by road, but I did not take the direct route. I found my way by road down to the coast at Scalby Mills and from there walked the promenade, South, towards the centre. I seem to be getting into a habit of this "promenading" - will have to watch it! The shoreline is very rocky at Scalby Mills gradually giving way to beach as you approach Scarborough. I knew the sea was there because I could hear it but the fog, which by now had become more dense, prevented me from actually seeing it. I left the seashore to find the centre and shops, and, I am ashamed to say, broke with tradition by actually buying something (clothing). Before I was tempted again I quickly retraced my steps back to the campsite and was rewarded by the sight of the sea, the fog having lifted slightly and the tide was starting to come in. I am hoping to do some cliff path walking (The Cleveland Way) so I hope the weather improves - the fog seems to be getting even thicker as I write this in the evening.

Saturday 10th September

The weather did not look good when I opened the blinds this morning. Although the fog had gone is was replaced by a uniformly grey sky - but it was still dry. That did not last and before breakfast was finished it was raining persistently and continued to do so for most of the morning. Plans for a long walk were put on hold. But, after an early lunch and with the weather looking as though it was improving, I decided on a short walk, North, along the coastal path. I walked as far as a headland called Long Nab, on which is situated an old coastguard lookout post, and then returned. There is nothing particularly spectacular about this stretch of coast but it did provide me with a bit of exercise and fresh air. It also served to test the waterproof qualities of my new walking boots - excellent, I've never felt such a dry pair of socks after a walk! By the time I arrived back at the campsite (mid-afternoon) the rain had returned and then continued into the evening. I did not venture out again. The first photographs of the trip were taken today - but nothing too impressive in the gloom. The highlight of the day was the fish and chips in the evening - yes it didn't take me too long before I succumbed.

Sunday 11th September

The weather was a significant improvement on yesterday. No rain but cloudy all day, although as the day wore on there was a hint of brightness and an occasional glimpse of the sun. I decided that Scarborough itself deserved a further inspection and a few photographs, so it was on with the walking boots again. I didn't mention yesterday, but immediately on the other side of the road to the campsite is the start of a short footpath which leads directly to the coastal path and it was here I started my walk again. On reaching the coast I turned South and followed the coastal path around a small headland and then descended to Scalby Mills, which I had reached by road on my first day here. I then continued along the promenade (again!), around the headland on which the castle is situated and on to the harbour and South Beach. My return took me up and around the castle walls before descending again to the promenade and retracing my steps from there to the campsite. I started relatively early and thought at that time of day on a Sunday I should have a nice peaceful walk to start with. Wrong! The first part of my route, the coastal path and North Promenade, was being used for a triathlon as I discovered on finding numerous fluorescent coated marshals dotted along the route. I started meeting the competitors as I descended to Scalby Mills and had to dodge to the side on several occasions to let them pass. The cycle/running changeover station was located on the promenade itself leaving only a small gap on the seaward side for us "promenaders" to pass. After that it was relatively quiet - apart from the sea that is - the tide was in and a very choppy sea was breaking over the promenade in places! I returned to the campsite for a late lunch at around 1:30 and decided to remain there for the rest of the day. Building up my reserves for a longer walk tomorrow (weather permitting) from Whitby to Robin Hoods Bay.

Monday 12th September

British weather! For three days since I arrived in Yorkshire is has been poor but today it was too good! Hardly a cloud in the sky, a very hot sun and not even a cooling breeze. Brilliant weather for sun bathing or a short stroll but not ideal for my planned long walk - but I proceeded nevertheless. To start with I drove to Whitby, the car park adjacent to Whitby Abbey to be precise as this is also close to the coastal path (The Cleveland Way again). I walked South from here to Robin Hood's Bay and then back again, taking in some of the most dramatic scenery of the Yorkshire Coastline. I had estimated the distance from Whitby to Robin Hood's Bay to be between 4 and 5 miles but from one or two signposts seen along the route it was probably at least 6 miles. So a slight miscalculation of the distance, very hot weather and a multitude of photographs all led to the five hour car park ticket at Whitby being inadequate, but it seems no one noticed. It also resulted in me spending very little time in Robin Hood's Bay and leaving no time at all to look around either the Abbey or town of Whitby. So maybe another day, although I move on from Scarborough tomorrow I wont be too far away at the next campsite to approach it from a different direction. Despite my grumbles it was a very good day, an excellent walk and, with the combination of the exercise and missing lunch, I must have lost an incredible amount of weight!

Tuesday 13th September

The weather was good today. It stayed dry, there was a moderate amount of sunshine and a fresh breeze kept the temperature to pleasantly warm - just the sort of weather I was looking for yesterday for that walk. It was moving campsites day today but as both are in North Yorkshire with only just over 30 miles between them I decided to make a detour - back to Whitby! This gave me a chance to look around the town and the Abbey and to photograph both. A gentle stroll around both was in order today - no rush to get back to the car park before my time expired. An interesting historical point about the Abbey not mentioned in the guides; Today I paid £4.00 to English Heritage to gain admission. In 1965 when I last visited (I still have the guide purchased on that visit) one shilling was paid to HM Government's Ministry of Public Buildings and Work (i.e. 5p or £0.05) for the same privilege, and its very likely that my parents paid for that. A significant increase in price in 40 years! The detour to Whitby enabled me to approach the new campsite over the North York Moors on the A169 via Pickering. A very scenic route which includes some very steep hills - one I had to negotiate in second gear (just!) behind a slow farm tractor! The new campsite is the Camping and Caravanning Club's at Slingsby, just off the B1257. This is a much smaller site than the one I just left and is on the Northern outskirts of the village. After a late lunch on arrival at about 1:30pm I only had energy left for a short tour of the village and the campsite.

Wednesday 14th September

A day of changing plans. The weather remained good - dry and sunny, although a freshening wind for the West kept the temperature down and, from the forecast, is likely to bring rain before dawn. I had thought of doing a bit of cycling today. The immediate surrounding area to the campsite (Ryedale) is fairly flat and the cycle hadn't seen the light of day since Mablethorpe. But in the morning I checked up on my stock of provisions and found that my decision not to shop yesterday while I was on the move was a mistake. So my first journey was a trip to Tesco in York to stock up, shouldn't take too long I thought and I can go for a cycle ride on my return. Next change of plan. The route from Slingsby to York passes the entrance to Castle Howard, one of the places I intended to visit during my stay here. It's only about 3 miles away so I thought it would be within reasonable cycling range even though I appreciated that there would be a climb up towards it. What I discovered was not one gentle climb but a roller coaster of a road with many steep inclines followed by dips - not ideal cycling terrain for my ageing limbs. So I thought why not make my visit there on my return from Tesco rather than make another journey in the 'van later in the week. So that's what I did. The fact that I didn't have to pay to park and there seemed no provision for cycles at Castle Howard, immediately confirmed to me that I had made the right decision. A gentle stroll around some of the grounds, lots of external photographs and then a viewing of the interior made for a pleasant half day. I even had a brush with a celebrity! As I was taking one of the exterior shots a buggy with three occupants zoomed through the the viewfinder and it was only when they passed close by to me and apologised for getting into the shot that I realised one of the occupants was John Craven. I returned to the campsite for a very late lunch and that was it for the day. Maybe I'll get round to that cycle ride tomorrow - weather permitting.

Thursday 15th September

The weather forecast was correct. It started to rain in the early hours of the morning and continued practically all day, with only a small respite early in the afternoon. The cycling plan was put on hold again, together with any other ideas of venturing far. So as has happen several time before in similar circumstances I resolved myself to a rest day and a lot of reading. The short respite in the rain during the early afternoon tempted me out for a short walk to the nearby village of Hovingham. Down the track of a disused railway line immediately over the road from the campsite entrance (the campsite is actually on the site of the old rail station and yard which served the village until the Beeching axe of 1964 fell) and the continuation of this, as a public footpath, though to the village of Hovingham. Nothing too adventurous and, as the rain had started to fall again before I arrived back at the campsite, nothing more was ventured. I hope the weather improves tomorrow - it's still raining at 7:30pm as I write this.

Friday 16th September

The weather changed overnight and in many ways improved. The grey skies were gone and for the most part the day was bright and sunny, but with fairly frequent showers. The downside was the arrival of a cold Northerly wind and consequently a significant drop in temperature. The cold and the rain did not deter me from, at last, setting out in the morning on my cycle to investigate the local lanes. A sea of mud dragged on to the road by tractors moving between fields did however. I say mud but, as there has been a significant odour of "muck spreading" prevailing in the area recently, it could have been worse. I did not investigate too closely but turned around and headed back, I had covered a reasonable distance by then but it would have been better if I had been able to reach my intended destination. In the afternoon I cycled to the nearby National Trust property of Nunnington Hall. A modest 17th century Manor House tucked away in the Yorkshire countryside and which I found, to my surprise, was currently staging an exhibition of original etchings and lithographs by Picasso and Matisse. I walk round the house the exhibition and the garden in the sunshine was then followed by cycling back to the campsite in the rain. After another shower or two after I had returned, the rain and clouds disappeared for a clear sunny end to the day. To be followed by a clear, cold night?

Saturday 17th September

I was very cold this morning, the first time on this trip that the heater has been used in anger. It did herald a very bright sunny start to the day although after lunch it became quite cloudy - but no rain and the cold wind had gone. With bright blue "architectural" skies I headed for the nearest bit of architecture to take some photos. The architecture in question was the ruins of the Rievaulx Abbey located about 12 miles away from the campsite, a bit too far and hilly to cycle so I went by 'van. I arrived at Rievaulx just after English Heritage, who manage to site, opened it at 10am. Very few people were there at that time so it gave me a great opportunity to take my time and get those architectural photos with the deep blue skies. I have seen many photographs of Rievaulx before but this was my first visit - the remains of the Cistercian Monastery were much more extensive than I expected and therefore gives a very good impression of the scale and complexity of such establishments. I then moved on (and up) to Rievaulx Terrace, which is managed by the National Trust. This is a long 18th century garden terrace which overlooks Rievaulx Abbey with a Tuscan Temple (round) at one end and an Ionic Temple (like the Parthenon, but much, much smaller) at the other. My main reason for visiting this terrace was to take more photographs of the Abbey from an aerial perspective, which I did. Unfortunately the architectural skies had faded into typical British cloud. The surprise for me here was the interior of the Ionic Temple. From the outside it is a fairly plain building but the interior is amazing - richly carved decorations, a marble fireplace (it was used as a summerhouse!) and a ceiling fresco, depicting Classical scenes, which was 3 years in the making. I returned to the campsite for a late lunch. The only other activity was a final walk round the village (for the third time) before I leave tomorrow - it is quite a pleasant little village and achieves it without trying too hard, if you know what I mean.

Sunday 18th September

The weather forecast was for dry and bright but it turned out better - hot and sunny. In the morning I travelled from Slingsby to York and the Caravan Club's campsite at Rowntree Park in that city. It is a campsite that I have visited before with good facilities and an excellent location right in the heart of York by River Ouse - excellent that is unless the river is in flood, which it does have a habit of doing. In the afternoon I cycled to Acomb, within the City of York, to visit friends James and Mary. After being provided with lunch we all walked back together in the sunshine to Rowntree Park for afternoon tea.

Monday 19th September

Continued good weather although not as warm as yesterday. In the morning I coupled some essential shopping with a short walk around the centre of York and returned to the campsite for an early lunch. In the afternoon I walked to the National Railway Museum, which is on the other side of the centre of York to the campsite. I last visited this about six or seven years ago and found very little changed except for the admission charge - it's now free, I'm certain a paid quite a large sum of money to get in last time. I suspect I have repeated some of the photos I took on my last visit, but these ones should be better as I now have an improved digital camera - well the theory is sound! On my return walk to the campsite I took a slightly roundabout route by walking the Eastern section of the City Walls - at least it kept me off the streets.

Tuesday 20th September

Another fine sunny day, a bit cloudy and with a threat of rain in the morning, but it remained dry and the clouds all but disappeared in the afternoon. In the morning I decided to try out National Cycle Route 65 to the South of York. On my last visit to York I investigated the Northern stretch of this route as far as Beningbrough. The route is also called the Trans-Pennine Way but I had no ambitions of reaching the West Coast of England in Lancashire where the route terminates. In fact I thought a gentle ride of about an hour or so and then return. The route from the campsite travels along the bank of the River Ouse for a while, passing the Millennium Bridge (guess when it was built?) and then branching away from the River across York Racecourse to link up with the path of a disused railway track heading towards Selby. By this time I was making very good progress due to the excellent tarmac surface, good signposting and hardly a hint of a hill. So my ambitions rose, not to reach Lancashire but to go as far as Selby, about 15 miles from York. The route kept up with the good cycling conditions for at least two-thirds of the way although there was some deterioration in the surfacing (to gravel) and some on-road sections as I approached Selby. On reaching Selby the route and signposting seemed to disintegrate completely but I'm certain I would have found it again if I wished to continue further - but I didn't. I returned by the same route to arrive back at the campsite for a late lunch at about 1:30pm, much earlier than I thought - must be getting fit at last or the mileage signs are inaccurate. That was enough for the day. This evening I am meeting James and Mary again for a restaurant meal where I hope we will be joined by more friends, John and Jen [It turned out to be just John, his wife had a prior engagement]. That's when I get unfit again.

Wednesday 21st September

Travelled home from York via the A64, A1, A14 and M11. Another dry sunny day once the early fog had cleared.

October 2005

Thursday 20 October

The start of my trip to the West Midlands - in the East Midlands! I travelled from home to the Camping and Caravanning Club campsite in St Neots, Cambridgeshire?, visiting the RSPB Nature Reserve at Fowlmere on the way. Having started the journey on the M11, I decided to leave it at Harlow and follow the old A11 route to get away from the heavy motorway traffic. It was a very pleasant sunny day, the journey was fairly short and I was not in a hurry - so why not? Having set the M11 route on the Tom Tom Go satellite navigation system it did initially object (telling me to "turn around where possible" or plotting alternative routes to get me back on to the M11) but it eventually got the message near Saffron Walden, from where it took me on a road towards Royston and then along lanes to reach the RSPB Reserve - an excellent device ... you just need to sometime ignore it for a while until it comes round to your way of thinking. I had not visited the Fowlmere Reserve before but it turned out to be an excellent place for stopping and taking a leisurely stroll in the countryside. The only thing missing were the birds - very few to be seen during the stroll or from the hides. Presumably the summer visitors had already left for their "hols" down South and the winter visitors were yet to arrive. The campsite is on the banks of the River Great Ouse, just South of the centre of the town of St Neots. A flat, fairly open, campsite with notices reminding you that it is subject to flooding! I arrived at the campsite just after 1pm and, after a bite to eat, walked by the river into the centre of the town (it was market day) and had a further leisurely stroll around in the sunshine, returning by road. The riverside path continues Northwards and I might explore this tomorrow, all being well with the weather - and me. I should explain that on this trip I am unlikely to do anything too strenuous on foot or by cycle. I am still suffering from a problem with my left knee which arose during my last trip, to North Yorkshire, - it reminds me of cartilage problems I experienced during football playing days, its not serious enough to seek any medical help, just a nuisance at the moment, but I suspect it could get worse if I put it under any strain. It could be just my age though!

Friday 21 October

The day started badly, weather-wise, and finished badly, in respect of the planned trip, with a reasonable interlude between. But let's take things in the order they happened. It rained heavily in the morning until about 10:30am when the sun broke through a cloudy sky and it then remained dry until the evening, although the threat of rain was always present. After the rain ceased in the morning I set off to investigate the path leading North from St Neots that I discovered yesterday. It's called the Ouse Valley Way, which seems rather appropriate as it runs along the banks of the River Great Ouse (not such an obvious statement as its sounds, remember the last long distance path I walked on was along the North Yorkshire Coast and it was called the Cleveland Way!). However I did not get very far. Just outside St Neots the path started to cross wet farmland, which was not too bad to start with, but when it turned through a farm gateway which was well trodden by the resident cows, I assessed that the mud would come above the level of my boots and possible up to my knees (I do have short legs!). So I turned around an retraced my steps, back to the campsite, which the Ouse Valley Way runs through, and continued South as far as a weir on the river opposite Eaton Socon. The path in this direction was muddy and slippery but the mud was only an inch or so deep at the most. I came back to the campsite for lunch and a rest and then the reasonable interlude in the day came to an end. About mid-afternoon I received a telephone call from the campsite I was intending to travel to tomorrow (Kingsbury Water Park on the outskirts of Birmingham) to tell me that the site was flooded and they had no option but to cancel my reservation! Panic!! The St Neots campsite I was on could not extend my stay as all the the hardstanding pitches were booked and although the site is very big with many spare pitches these are all on grass, very wet grass, and they were understandably not allowing motorcaravans on such pitches. After many failed attempts at trying to find an alternative site for the next two days (a combination of the wet weather, a weekend and school half-term holidays meant none could be found - at least for Saturday night) I resigned myself to returning home and setting out again on Monday. Only hope the weather improves!

Saturday 22 October

I should have been writing this in Birmingham but instead I'm back home. When I travelled to St Neots on Thursday I had two alternatives for a stop on the way. So given the opportunity to travel the route in the reverse direction I could now see the other one, The Imperial War Museum at Duxford Airfield. I have driven by this many times in the past on the M11, sometimes finding myself delayed when there was an air display, and had often thought of visiting. So not delaying too long in St Neots I found myself in the airfield car park just before 10am, the opening time for the museum. Aircraft are displayed both outside on the tarmac and under cover in some of the old airbase hangers and also in The American Air Museum, a new building designed by Sir Norman Foster and opened in 1997. In 2007 another new building, "AirSpace", is due to open and will house an exhibition of British Aviation, relieving the hangers of their overcrowding and providing a permanent home for Concord which sits patiently outside on the tarmac. The external shell of the new building looks almost complete. I found it almost impossible to stop taking photographs for the three hours I was there, but only a very small selection will find their way onto this website. I arrived home (M11 all the way) just before 2pm and not a drop of rain all day - quite sunny at times in fact - ironic therefore that it should be too much rain in Birmingham that has caused me to take this direction home. The story will continue on Monday - I hope.

Sunday 23 October

Home Alone!

Monday 24 October

My trip to the West Midlands continues - and this time I actually reached that destination. I travelled to the Camping and Caravanning Club campsite on Cannock Chase. I knew theoretically that the quickest route would be via the M25, M1 and M6 without even asking the satellite navigation system, but if I were to list roads by priority of my worst driving experiences it would be those three roads, in that order. To compound the situation, rain was falling and was forecast to continue for most of the day. However, a recent update to the system's software allows a route to be planned avoiding motorways - so here was the ideal opportunity to experiment. It worked - the planned route took me across North London (on a route I had used before) through Potters Bar and St Albans and then joined the A5, just South of Dunstable, following this all the way to Tamworth only about 10 miles or so from the campsite. While I could have worked the route out for myself fairly easily, following it from a map could have presented me with more of a problem. Having made the choice to avoid the motorways, one of the best part of the journey was approaching Potters Bar, where the route ran alongside the M25 for a while, I could see an endless queue of stationary traffic on the motorway heading West, which I had managed to avoid. I arrived at the campsite at about 1pm having driven in continuous rain for the whole 130 miles, mostly fairly light but with occasional heavy spells. The campsite is literally in the middle of Cannock Forest, surrounded by trees on all sides. The site, unsurprisingly, was very wet but the hardstanding pitch I was given was on the highest part of the site was relatively dry. I am only here for one night but, given better weather, the site would be worth a longer stay as there are many forest trails that could be followed from the site. For this visit I contented myself with relatively short walk down to a small lake, keeping mainly to forest tracks - the footpaths were very muddy and under water in many places. The rain had relented slightly, the slight drizzle being hardly enough to get my waterproof jacket wet, but the rain returned soon after I was back in the dry of the motorcaravan. Continuing irony of the weather - it did not rain at all on Saturday and Sunday when I couldn't camp at Kingsbury Water Park because of the wet conditions, but today, when I resumed camping, it rained for most of the day. The forecast is for rain for most of the coming weeks as well. Possibly I should have a re-think about camping in October - it all went pear-shaped for me last year as well during this month!

Tuesday 25 October

Better weather - I think. The day started out dry (after a lot of overnight rain) and eventually quite sunny but with the occasional very large, dark cloud threatening heavy rain. You would have to be very unfortunate to get caught in one of those downpours - but I was. Finally a very strong Westerly wind arose during the late afternoon bringing even more showers scudding through. I travelled to the Camping and Caravanning Club Campsite at Ebury Hill, just outside Shrewsbury in Shropshire. A relatively short journey and so therefore I paid a visit to the National Trust property of Attingham Park, also just outside Shrewsbury, and the 18th century Attingham Hall which resides in the park. It was during my walk around the park that downpour occurred and I was grateful for the shelter that an old fir tree gave me or I would have been drenched - this occurred before the Hall opened and could offer me any shelter. Of course during my tour around the interior of the house it remained dry, bright and very sunny outside! Only a limited number of photos taken because of the rain. The campsite, as its name suggests, is situated on a hill - to the East of Shrewsbury. Just the ideal sort of situation you would look for in high winds - I think not. The OS Map actually identifies the site as a fort and the earthworks surrounding the campsite do possible pre-date the Camping and Caravanning Clubs ownership. The location is close to the Welsh Border and overlooks the city of Shrewsbury, so it does seem quite feasible. Tomorrow, weather permitting, I intends to investigate the surrounding area on foot (The Shropshire Way passes the campsite), possibly as far a Shrewsbury, knee permitting!

Wednesday 26 October

The weather was good, for the first two-thirds of the day anyway. Mostly cloudy but bright, with the occasional glimpse of the sun and rain showers arriving from mid afternoon onwards. I set out soon after 9am to walk towards Shrewsbury. A gate in the corner of the campsite, near to my pitch, gives access to a footpath crossing a field, peacefully grazed by very contented looking sheep. Across this and an adjoining file is another gate into some woodland (Abbey Wood as I later discovered, managed by the Forestry Commission) with a very clear path leading through it. Just before reaching the road (B5062) the path passes the ruins of Haughmond Abbey (English Heritage) - possibly a visit later, but not today just a few photos over the wall. By now I have joined The Shropshire Way and this continues on the other side of the road through more Forestry Commission woodland of Haughmond Hill (potential for more walks here). The Way now turns down a green lane to the small village of Uffington and on reaching the road here I find the the path continues on the opposite side of the road again. The path is now also becomes a cycle way so the surfacing, which has been quite muddy in places through the woods, improves dramatically. It is at this point that I decide that I can make it to the town centre of Shrewsbury - good level surfaces, fine weather and no significant complaints from the knee. The path continues by winding its way along the River Seven to Shrewsbury, sometimes at a distance, sometimes alongside and, close to my destination, actually in the river! To explain - with all the rain the river was running strongly and very high, too high for the final stretch of the cycle path which seemed to be a foot or so underwater. Adjacent roads provided an alternative route for me as far as the station and so on to the town centre. After a look around the town and with noon fast approaching I decided to have lunch before setting out back - I do treat myself to these little luxuries when I think I have deserved it. Initially the weather held, on the way back, but the cloud was gradually increasing and getting darker so it was no surprise that on reaching Uffington it started to rain. A heavy shower, but not the downpour of yesterday, but the woodland through which I was walking kept much of it off me. It had stopped and I was almost dry again by the time I reached the campsite just before 3pm. The serious rain started after I was back in the dry. A successful day - and to cap it all the rain clouds broke just in time to reveal the sun slowly sinking behind the Welsh Hills and a glorious sunset.

Thursday 27 October

The weather stayed dry today, although overcast until mid-afternoon. A day for walking - well at least the morning. I decided to investigate further the footpaths which abound on Haughmond Hill and which I touched upon yesterday. Having made my way down to the B5062 again, this time by way of a very muddy farm track, I followed a by-road on the opposite side of the road to a car park and picnic place provided by the Forestry Commission. From this spot there were three clearly marked trails to follow and for the most part these trails were well surfaced and kept me out of the mud. However I intended to follow a suggested route provided by the campsite and therefore left these trails after a while to follow a perimeter path around the wood - and found myself in the mud again. This perimeter path eventually linked up with the Shropshire Way which I followed yesterday and so back to the campsite. One diversion was to ascend to a viewpoint on the South-Western edge of the Hill "for a great view over the River, Shrewsbury and the Welsh Hills" - but being cloudy and with poor visibility I had to use my imagination a bit, still a good viewpoint though. I returned to the campsite at about noon and decided that the afternoon was going to be for relaxation - I had done quite a bit more walking than I had anticipated on this trip and decided that the knee could do with a rest. The site had emptied significantly by my return and I spent a peaceful afternoon watching three very industrious squirrels scampering around in front of me in the sunshine checking their caches of nuts as they were quickly being covered by falling leaves.

Friday 28 October

Sunshine, showers and blustery winds are not unusual for the weather in late October, but the mild temperatures are. Showers more frequent than previous days but not so intense. I travelled to the Camping and Caravanning Club Campsite at Wolverley in Worcestershire, which is situated just to the North of Kidderminster. Another relatively short journey between campsites, but this time I could find no intermediate point of interest at which to stop. Both of the National Trust properties close to the route between Shrewsbury and Kidderminster are closed on Fridays. So after an early stop at Tesco in Shrewsbury for essential provisions, I contented myself with spending some time in a car park by the banks of the River Seven at Hampton Loade, watching the rain falling and the swollen river rushing by at a very fast pace. On reaching the new campsite, and after lunch, I made two short excursions on foot to investigate the immediate surroundings. The Staff. & Worcs. Canal is very close by and in better weather the towpath could be worth exploring - but not today. I also discovered that the road by the site, although it only has a "B" classification, is quite busy and this, together with a late influx of fellow campers with children, means that this campsite will be significantly different to the peaceful idyll I left behind at Ebury Hill.

Saturday 29 October

Weather was very similar to yesterday, although the showers seem to hold off until the evening - well at least for me anyway. Yesterday, as I sat by the River Severn at Hampton Loade, a whistle and the distinctive chuffing of a steam engine reminded me that the Severn Valley Railway ran through this area. A train then came into view on the opposite side of the Severn to confirm this. So my plans for today started to take shape. The steam only services run from Kidderminster to Bridgnorth and so getting to Kidderminster by foot was my first task. As I was uncertain about using the canal towpath route, not being sure whereabouts in Kidderminster it would take me to, I thought it safer to follow the roads to ensure I got to the station well in time for the first train out at 10:30am. The train seemed almost full by the time it left Kidderminster but my early arrival was rewarded by securing a forward facing window seat - always my preference when travelling by train. I spent some time at Bridgnorth, looking around the town centre and market place (very crowded) then taking the cliff railway from the centre of the town down to the "Lower Town" by the River Severn. A bite to eat, back up the cliff railway and to the station for my return journey to Kidderminster. I decided to walk back from Kidderminster Station to the campsite on the canal towpath if I could find it. I headed for the town centre, straight past all the shops and made my way in a vague direction North-West until I found myself crossing some water. A bit more meandering and I found the start of the towpath, carefully hidden on the far side of a major traffic junction. Once on the towpath it was then a simple matter of following this until I reached the familiar (as of yesterday) bridge at Wolverley. I think the two route were probably the same distance, about two miles, although the canal route could possibly have been quicker if I knew the most direct route from the canal to the station. I returned to the campsite at about 3:30pm and decided that was quite enough for the day.

Sunday 30 October

Another blustery, showery, mild, sunny day. I decided to have a further walk on the canal towpath before leaving the campsite at Wolverley. After walking for about 30 minutes the first shower of the day arrived and having seen the gathering clouds which accompanied it I decided to retreat back to the campsite, slightly wet, and watch the remainder of this very heavy, 2 hour long, "shower" from the warm and dry of the motorcaravan. It was still raining when I set out from this campsite for the short drive to the Caravan Club's campsite at Broadway in Worcestershire. Although the rain stopped soon after setting out, the roads were awash and at one place, just North of Worcester, flooded. When I arrived at the Broadway campsite the sun came out, but was followed within an hour by another shower. It was my first visit to the Broadway campsite and I was impressed. All hardstanding pitches in bays defined by borders of grass and shrubs - the site surrounded on all sides by a "shelter-belt" of trees. Modern spacious toilet block with all facilities kept in a very neat and tidy manner. I'm quite happy to pay the small amount extra amount required (about £3 per night extra over the last campsite) when the standard is like this. After finishing lunch (during the rain) I then ventured out into the village of Broadway as the weather looked as if it could hold fine for a time. Although this was my first visit to the campsite at Broadway I had visited this Cotswold village several times before when staying in Cheltenham. For those who have not seen the village its appearance can best be described as "calendar friendly" without really having to try. The unifying natural warmth of Cotswold stone together with a genuine random juxtaposition of the buildings gives it a charm that others try hard to emulate. Unfortunately the sun did not cooperate with my efforts to take some photographs so I may try again another day while I'm here. It didn't rain again though!

Monday 31 October

A day off from "sight-seeing", I drove to Cheltenham to visit and have lunch with my brother-in-law, Phil. A cloudy, misty morning was replaced by bright sunshine in the afternoon. No rain until the evening and still unseasonably mild.

November 2005

Tuesday 1 November

My thoughts of adding to the photographs of Broadway yesterday afternoon, as a drove back from Cheltenham in bright sunshine, faded as the sun dropped below the rain clouds advancing from the West. Still some time before the rain actually arrived, but the premature sunset brought an end to any thoughts of photographs on that day. Heavy overnight rain also dampened my hopes in that respect for today also but, to my surprise, by the time I opened the curtains the bright Autumn sunshine had returned. So just before 9am I set out on a walk through the village again taking (and retaking) many photographs on the way. My departure for home was thus delayed until about 10:30am. Trusting my satellite navigation system again to get me home without using motorways, it estimated about three hours and that's what it took - amazing since I stopped for a snack in a lay-by and had to contend with a heavily congested section of the North Circular Road (A460) as well. The main route was via the A44 and A41 with a few "B roads" in-between. This ended by October trip to the West Midlands - although it started in the East Midlands and ended in November!

Monday 7th November

I travelled from home to the Camping and Caravanning Club Campsite at Sandringham in Norfolk. An interesting route, (selected by my satellite navigation systems to avoid motorways) via the North Circular (A460) and the A10; then via a B road to join the A550 and onto the A11/A14 Newmarket By-Pass; branching off this on the A142 towards Ely, but before reaching it taking another B road North to join the A10 again towards Kings Lynn. Finally North on the A149 to Sandringham. I have visited this campsite many times before and found within it the peace and quiet I was seeking, for what is probably my last trip of the year. In fact not many people on the site at all and the pitches appear to be being allocated to spread the few that are here as widely as possible around this very large campsite - there is no-one within 100 yards of me. Time for a gentle stroll around the some of the public paths of the Sandringham Estate before the sun dropped below the trees. The weather was excellent all day - bright sunshine, very few clouds in the sky and still relatively mild for the time of year.

Tuesday 8th November

Good weather again - dry, mostly sunny, a fairly brisk wind but still mild. A green woodpecker kept me company for breakfast. Admittedly I was in the motorcaravan eating my cereal whereas it was outside, about 10 yards away, feeding on insects that it was digging out of the ground with its long beak, but we both kept eating for about the same length of time. It declined to wait for coffee - presumably a pressing appointment elsewhere. This event served to remind me that it was my intention to visit the RSPB Reserve at Titchwell, on the North Norfolk Coast not far from the campsite. So as the weather was fine I set out in the van not long after 9am. Of course a true bird enthusiast will tell you that it's best to visit this reserve in bad weather as that's when all sorts of rare migrants could turn up at this time of year. In any event I saw lots of birds - some of which I could identify others which I relied on the conversations of other watchers (with telescopes) to provide the commentary. Apparently some gannets were passing far out to sea but with my binoculars I could not positively identify them and may have just been looking at some gulls. I returned to the campsite for lunch and in the afternoon had a short stroll around some of the woodland paths close to the campsite. The remainder of the time was spent in peaceful relaxation on the campsite - it is very quiet.

Wednesday 9th November

After overnight rain another dry, bright, sunny day - although it has turned noticeably colder, as it should be in November. A day, or half-day, of gently strolling in the woodland surrounding the campsite, all within the Sandringham Royal Estate. I revisited the Dersingham Nature Reserve and found this even more peaceful and relaxing than the campsite. There was no return of the green woodpecker of yesterday, but during my walk I did see a pair of it's great spotted relatives. If you have read this travel diary so far you have probably realised by now that this trip is all about doing nothing, or at most very little. No visits, no photographs and not much to say in the diary - but it's an area I have visited and photographed many times before so I'm just having a break from my normal routine, I did even wonder whether to bother with this diary.

Thursday 10th November

More overnight rain which today lingered into the early morning. It then remained dry but overcast for the rest day but the increasing cold of yesterday did not continue and it returned to being mild. Another day lacking in excitement - just the way I like it. I travelled to Hunstanton by van, a short distance of 8 miles or so, initially for some shopping but then I parked and went for a walk. I recalled a school geography trip to Hunstanton (yes I can still remember back that far) to study the cliffs to the North of Hunstanton and so I relived that trip. I walked along the cliff top then down to, and back along, the beach to look at the cliff face. An information board reminded me of what I vaguely remembered from the geography trip that the cliffs exposed the distinct stratification of the geological makeup of the region; carstone as the bedrock, then a sedimentary layer of red/brown chalk topped by another sedimentary layer of white chalk. I passed two school parties on the beach doing exactly what I had done more that forty years ago - ignoring their teachers and generally messing about on the sand and in the rock pools - so much for the advance of education. I returned to the campsite for lunch and spent the rest of the day there. The green woodpecker paid me a return visit and spent about half-an-hour prodding its sharp beak deep into the ground searching for food. It occurred to me, that if you could train a flock of them to do this to a cultivated lawn it would be make an excellent, labour saving and environmentally friendly method of aerating a lawn in a very short time. Such are the meanderings of an idle mind! Back to home and reality tomorrow.

Friday 11th November

Weather good for travelling. Dry, reasonably bright but not too sunny. An uneventful journey home by another "non-motorway" route, this time using the old A11 as my approach to London. It took a bit of prompting to the satellite navigation system for it to provide this route as it calculated that this took 5 minute longer than the A10 route even though is was 4 miles shorter in distance - but it seemed more relaxing to me! This concluded my short trip to Norfolk, and probably my travelling for 2005.

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