April 2004

Thursday 15 April

Travelled to Canterbury Camping and Caravanning Club Site during the early afternoon, using the Blackwall Tunnel, A2 and M2. The site is situated on the eastern outskirts of Canterbury just off the A257, the main road to Sandwich. I had visited the site before and it was, as I remembered, a large and quiet site with a small nature reserve adjacent to the site. In the afternoon I cycled into Canterbury, mainly to remind myself of the cycle routes around the city and look for the start of the cycle trail I intended to explore the following day. On arriving at the site I was offered a cup of coffee by my neighbour on the site who introduced me to three other campers nearby as members of the Club's "Loners Group" and wondered, as I was on my own, if I wished to join their group. They were quite pleasant people but the whole concept of a group of "loners" seemed somewhat strange to me and, from my simple understanding of the English language, contradictory. I was not persuaded into joining. The weather was fine all day and it seems that its is here to stay for a while.

Friday 16 April

Clear sunny weather greeted me at dawn and, from the weather forecast, looked set fine for the remainder of the day. Just the weather for cycling. Cycled to Whitstable in the morning on the "Cockle and Winkle Cycle Trail", spent some time exploring Whitstable on foot and returned on the trail in the afternoon. The trail follows suburban roads through the outskirts of both Canterbury and Whitstable but apart from that is mainly off-road on reasonable and level gravel surfaces. Going to Whitstable the gradients seemed quite gentle, but of course the reason for this was that it was predominantly downhill to the coast whereas coming back was a gradual climb. The additional weight I was carrying on the return, from a very large fish-and-chip lunch, did not help either. I must try harder to get this energy/exercise balance correct! The weather turned out to be almost too good for cycling, the evening weather report claiming the hottest day of the year so far, as I noted by pink glow from my forearms as I went to bed.

Saturday 17 April

Walked into Canterbury in the morning with the thought of looking around the cathedral, however it appeared that half the school population of Europe was milling around the gate to the Cathedral Precinct with the same intention - so I decided to leave that for another day. I therefore had a look at the castle - which no-one seems visit - and wandered around the wall and the lanes of the city centre trying to get some photographs of the cathedral, which was not easy. Started to look around a few shops, but had to put an end to that very quickly as I was almost tempted to buy something in M&S. Returned to the campsite for a late lunch and spent the remained of the day relaxing there. The weather was again fine, sunny in the morning but turning cloudy in the afternoon, the rain which was forecast not arriving until after nightfall.

Sunday 18 April

Having started overnight it then continued to rain all day with only a couple of short breaks in the afternoon. My intention had been more cycling - but it turned into a 'rest day'.

Monday 19 April

Travelled from Canterbury to Norman's Bay Camping and Caravanning Club Site in East Sussex, first south on the A28 then along the coast road (A259) through Hastings. The site is located on the Channel coast just to the east of Pevensey Bay, which itself is about four miles east of Eastbourne. When I say 'on the coast' it is literally that - there is a shingle beach and bank, then immediately behind and below this is a road then the campsite. I stood on this shingle bank several times while I was staying on the site trying to determine if the site was above or below sea level and decided, more for my peace of mind while sleeping rather than any logical reason, that it was just above. After arriving at the site around mid-day, I cycled around the area to get to know it - first to Norman's Bay, not so much a village more a holiday camp that has grown around a hamlet - then to Pevensey (definitely worth a longer visit) - then Pevensey Bay and from there along a mainly traffic free cycle route, partly along the sea front, to Eastbourne - returning by the same cycle route. Back to sunny dry weather again for today, the forecast rain not materialising, but there was quite a cool wind blowing directly off the sea.

Tuesday 20 April

I was decidedly cold overnight and when I first looked out of the motorcaravan it seemed as though there might have been a ground frost - but I didn't venture out to confirm this. This meant that the day started bright and sunny but although the early sun disappeared the wind was not so keen as yesterday. My plan was to cycle the 'Cuckoo Trail' today. This is a dedicated cycle trail which uses the path of a disused railway line and runs from Polegate, north of Eastbourne, to Heathfield. I first cycled to Polegate, through country lanes to the north of Eastbourne, then to Heathfield and back, and returned to the campsite through Eastbourne. The trail is nearly all off-road and for most of the way a good tarmac surface, the main obstacles being dog-walkers and their charges who seem oblivious to cyclists approaching and are certainly more numerous than cycles on this trail. A pleasant ride however, but I didn't see or hear a single cuckoo - possibly slightly too early in the year? I arrived back at the campsite for a late lunch and decided that rest was the appropriate 'activity' for the remainder of the day - I had probably cycled over thirty miles!

Wednesday 21 April

The weather was dull, overcast, cool and mainly dry, although this changed at evening time with a spectacular thunder storm - heavy rain and lightening - but fortunately no sign of waves appearing over the top of the shingle bank between me and the sea. Essential stocking up of motorcaravan supplies at the local Tesco in the morning. During the afternoon I walked along the shingle beach from the campsite. First east until I was clear of the strange collection of houses, chalets and holiday homes of which Norman's Bay comprises, returning to the campsite by the same route. Then, after a break for refreshment, west, passing a similar array of holiday homes to the village of Pevensey Bay, this time returning by road - walking on the shingle was getting somewhat tiring for my ageing legs. Mid-week in April the whole area appeared virtually deserted with only a couple of sea-fishermen sharing this whole stretch of beach with me - not that I'm complaining.

Thursday 22 April

The best day for weather so far while on this campsite, dry bright and sunny with only a hint of the cool sea breeze remaining.In the morning I cycled into Eastbourne for a walk along the promenade and then around the shopping centre, again managing to avoid buying anything. By the time I arrived on the promenade all the benches facing the sea were already occupied by pensioners jostling for position - so the stereotype it true in this case! I didn't dare to compete. After returning to the campsite for lunch, I cycled to Pevensey in the afternoon for a walk around the castle and the village. Access through the outer (Roman) walls of the castle is free but for access to the interior of the decayed (Norman) keep, English Heritage charge an entrance fee, which I declined to pay. I have tried to understand the logic of this - the upkeep of the much larger Roman fort by EH much cost them as much as the Norman keep. I've also tried to read some historical or political significance into this - Romans=Socialists; Normans=Capitalists - but then we all know that socialism is now just a thing of myth and legend that our parents used to talk about. In between such ponderings I did take some photos of the castle and the church of St Nicholas in the village.

Friday 23 April

Travelled from Norman's Bay to Chichester Camping and Caravanning Club Site, mostly on the main A27 trunk road. A curious road, some parts of fast motorway standard and others single carriageway with roundabouts and traffic lights making it infuriatingly slow. The Chichester camp site is actually in Southbourne, a few miles to the west of Chichester on the A259. It is a relatively small site and was quite full while I was there, but plenty of trees (it appears to be an old orchard) and birdlife. I watched each morning as a pair of starlings were building a nest in a hollow in a tree immediately outside my motorcaravan - I am not certain this will be a successful venture on their part as any fledglings would have to run the gauntlet of the numerous dogs which caravan owners bring to these camp sites. I arrived just after midday and after lunch cycled around the surrounding villages of Nutbourne, Chidham, Prinstead and Emsworth. The road around here are fairly busy with only nominal concessions to cyclist but there seems to be ample opportunity for walking from the camp site to various parts of Chichester Harbour. The weather keeps improving - not only dry and sunny but quite warm, in fact warm enough to tempt me into wearing shorts on site on return from my cycle ride.

Saturday 24 April

The hottest day of the year so far (according to the weatherman on the radio) - clear sky and bright sun, almost as bright but not quite as red as my arms. In the morning walked from Prinstead along the shore of Chichester Harbour, first east then south along the Chidham peninsular as far as the footpath would take me. Returned by the same route except that I left the path earlier to return to the site via Nutbourne. To explain, for those who have not visited this area - Chichester Harbour is in fact a series of sea inlets to the south and west of the city of Chichester which at low tide revert to mud-flats with small navigable channels through them serving the multitude of marinas which are dotted all around the harbour. Plenty of birds to observe through my binoculars although, as I left the recently purchased bird identification pocket book in my motorcaravan, very few positive identifications particularly of the waders (possibly Sandpipers) and warbler (possibly Whitethroat). But I do know a Little Egret when I see one and there were several of those around - although it could have been the same one that kept moving around and seeking attention.The afternoon was spent in the sun on the camp site - shorts again!

Sunday 25 April

The sun decided not to put in an appearance today (probably as well considering the state of my arms) but it did remain dry and brightened up considerably as the day progressed. Cycled into Chichester in the morning - I thought the roads would be a bit quieter on a Sunday morning - and was able to wander around the centre without being tempted to shop. Took a few photographs of the cathedral but the lighting was not good. On the return journey I deviated southwards to Bosham Quay, on another inlet of Chichester Harbour an took a few more photographs there in brightening conditions. In the afternoon went for a further walk along the shore of Chichester Harbour, this time down the peninsular know as Thorney Island, as it was once (an island that is).

Monday 26 April

Its almost getting boring now to say that this was another bright sunny and warm day - but there I've said it. Travelled by train from Southbourne to Portsmouth and visited the Historical Dockyard. At last I did part with some money to buy an "all inclusive" ticket for £15 to visit all the ships, museums and exhibitions that are open to the public - it is almost impossible to visit all in a day, but the ticket has no time limit so I can return at some time in the future to see more. I did fit in all the 'essentials' on the day however, HMS Victory, HMS Warrior and the remains of The Mary Rose recovered from Portsmouth Harbour where she sank in the sixteenth century. A very interesting day and it was good to look around in the relative quiet of an April Monday, I hate to thinks how crowded this could be during the summer holidays or on a bank holiday. Took photos of the Warrior and Victory, but the way The Mary Rose is exhibited at the moment, behind glass and being constantly sprayed with preservative, is not conducive to photography (its likely to be the next decade before the preservative treatment is complete and that it can be more clearly seen by visitors). My journey served to remind me that rail services in the UK still leave much to be desired. A simple four stop journey with an estimated travelling time of 15 minutes is what it should have been. In the morning the train I was going to travel on was cancelled, the announcement being made only five minutes before it was due to arrive. I therefore had to take an alternative later train and change at Havant. The return journey was worse - due to a signal or points failure (take your pick the train indicator board said the former and the platform attendants were reporting the latter) just outside Portsmouth Station all trains were being delayed - the Brighton train I needed eventually left the station one hour after it was timetabled to do so, although other trains to London and Cardiff did not have to suffer such long delays. There is a moral to this story .... but I don't think I need to spell out the obvious.

Tuesday 27 April

Travelled home in the morning via the A27, A29, A262, M23, M25, A2 and through the Blackwall Tunnel. Later in the afternoon the good weather broke with storms and heavy rain, it then continued to rain off-and-on for several days. Lucky me!

May 2004

Sunday 16 May

In the morning I travelled from home to the Tewkesbury Caravan Club Campsite, via Aylesbury, Bicester and Chipping Norton - deliberately avoiding the worst parts of the M25 and the M40 which provide the most obvious route to Tewkesbury. The campsite is close to the centre of the town just behind the Abbey on very level ground (the River Severn flood plain, as several signs remind you). In the afternoon I walked though the town and across the river to Severn Ham - a large flat area of meadow situated between the River Avon and River Severn. The first opportunity to use my new camera - it has quite a lot of complicated settings (if you override the auto) and I succeeded in getting these wrong several times, but when I got them right the results were quite good. The slide show contains a few of the good ones! The weather has started dry, sunny and warm, but (unlike most others on the campsite) I kept most parts of my body protected against the afternoon sun, deciding to build up my exposure gradually - not repeating the mistakes I made in April!

Monday 17 May

After a brief shopping trip first thing, I travelled from Tewkesbury to Rhandirmwyn Camping and Caravan Club Campsite in Mid-Wales, via the M50 and A40 (and also the A449 and Usk - but that was a mistake). The campsite is quite remote, situated in the valley of the River Towy (Afon Towy) just below the village which gives it it's name - which I did not even attempt to pronounce. The river runs along the side of the campsite and helps to create a very relaxed and peaceful atmosphere on the site - ideal for getting away from it all. In the afternoon I bought a book of local walks from the campsite shop (this definitely not cycling country - for me at least) and started to plan my future days adventures. The weather was very hot and sunny and after a frustrating drive in the morning (who would think you had to take the slip road OFF a dual carriageway road to stay ON the A40 - that's how I finished up on the A449, with no way back) I decided to just sit around on the campsite all afternoon, soaking up the atmosphere, with just a brief walk around the environs of the site.

Tuesday 18 May

Another fine, hot, sunny day - this now seems to be the 'rule' rather than the 'exception' for the climate I am now experiencing in my UK travels - it always used to rain whenever I went walking, particularly in Wales. In the morning I undertook one of the walks from the book I bought yesterday. It was an eight mile walk, first south from the campsite along the bank of the River Towy to a gorge, then, after a small detour to by-pass the gorge, further along the river bank by farm track and minor road. Then turning north-east and crossing the main road the 'ascent' started; first by minor road, then by green lane and finally across open ground, grazed by innumerable sheep, to the dizzy height of 379m (according to the OS map) - being an unnamed hill complete with cairn (pile of stones!) and standing stone, again according to the OS map. The hill afforded amazing views of the surrounding countryside and a photographic opportunity - although such photos rarely due justice to the first hand experience of such a view. The route then turned to the west and descended via a path through a coniferous plantation to the village of Rhandirmwyn and from there, via another minor road, back to the campsite. The route proved quite steep in unexpected places (the detour around the river gorge) which involved a bit of scrambling and muddy knees to the trousers - but I suppose that's why I wear 'walking' trousers with reinforced knee patches - also the decent through the conifers was not as straightforward as made out in the book either. Decided I needed to treat the 'walks' book with a certain degree of caution. The photo slide show, as well as showing photos taken on this day, also includes some taken on the two subsequent days of walking. I got back to the campsite soon after 1pm. After lunch I took refuge from the hot sun in the shade of the motorcaravan (with all windows and roof lights open) for a prolonged siesta.

Wednesday 19 May

Another fine, hot, etc ... but the weather man on the radio said it would all change overnight. On further study of the walks book overnight I concluded that most of the routes were a bit dubious - probably written by someone from the 'militant wing' of the Ramblers Association with little regards for rights-of-way or the capabilities of the average walker. So back to the OS maps for today's walk, mainly by road to the RSPB Dinas Reserve at Ystradffin, a circuit of the reserve, then back, by road again, to the campsite by 1pm. Did not see many birds at the RSPB Reserve - a glimpse of a buzzard and a red kite in the distance, but I'd already seen these from the campsite - but the walk and the scenery was good. There were also some good views and photo opportunities from the road. Normally I would imagine that this road to the Reserve would be very quiet, but the morning of my walk it was fairly busy - almost entirely with police vehicles. I leant from one of the policemen that a man out walking alone, aged about 57, had gone missing - by the time I was returning both Mountain Rescue and a helicopter were also involved in the search. Could this be some kind of message for me ... ? The afternoon was a repeat of yesterday ... I could get quite used to such siestas, certainly much safer than out walking alone at my age!

Thursday 20 May

The weather man was wrong - no rain, and although a bit cloudy first thing it was sunny and hot for most of the day, turning a bit cooler during the late afternoon and evening. The forecast was for a cool night with "the possibility of a ground frost in Welsh valleys" ... but we will see. In the morning I walked along the Cilycwm road from the campsite, to the Forestry Commission plantation at Cwm-y-Rhaiadr, which has a good way-marked nature trail. The trail follows the Nant-y-Rhaeadr - up the west side of the gorge and bank of the river (mainly deciduous woodland) and then back along the east (mainly coniferous). At the furthest point on the trail a public footpath leads to the Craig Ddu waterfall and then ascends steeply up the side of the waterfall (a 'walk' mentioned in the campsite book referred to before), with steps in places but mainly involving rock scrambling, to the bleak open moorlands of Mynydd Mallaen. I ventured a short distance along this path and managed to get few photographs but decided against the serious climb - ascending a rocky staircase to a bleak open landscape with a name beginning with "M" sounded far too Tolkienian and I didn't have anyone with me to fend off giant spiders and Orcs, let alone pick me up and carry me if found I couldn't go on! (Sorry ... but as you might have guessed I have been watching the latest Lord of the Rings DVD since getting back from this trip ... now back to reality). I therefore followed the way-marked trail back to the road and from there back to the campsite for lunch. In the afternoon more leisurely strolls along the banks of the River Towy from the campsite in both directions - experimenting with the new camera again.

Friday 21 May

Weather decidedly colder, but still bright with a fair amount of sun and no rain (frost? ... what frost!). Travelled from Rhandirmwyn to Bala Camping and Caravanning Club campsite, via the coast and Aberystwyth, stopping off on route at the RSPB Reserve at Ynys-hir. I had intended to have a midday snack there but found out after arriving that all that was on offer were snacks and drinks machines. As a result I did not spend as much time there as I would have liked - taking the shorter of the two circular routes and a bit of time watching birds on the estuary - but pushed on to a Little Chef for a late lunch, an over-microwaved salmon fillet and jacket potato (I should know by now that they are only capable of reasonably good fried food and to stay clear of any of the more healthy looking alternatives on their menu). I had also intended to stop on route at a supermarket to stock up with supplies; saw a suitable one (with large car park) early on in my journey at Lampeter, but decided to travel on further - then did not find another one on route, not even in Aberystwyth. The campsite is about 3 mile north of Bala at Cefn-ddwysarn, with no local shops - will have to drive back to Bala tomorrow for shopping, again the hills look a bit steep for cycling. Contented myself with a short stroll around the roads surrounding the campsite to get my bearings and establish where the nearest footpaths could be found. Farmland surrounds the site and, from the observed state of gates and stiles, the local landowners do not appear to be over-welcoming to walkers. I strange day - many things I attempted were unsuccessful and, although the campsite itself is good, I wonder how suitable its location is going to be for me, as the only activity I had in mind was walking locally.

Saturday 22 May

Weather much as yesterday, cool but dry and mainly sunny - but out of the wind it could feel quite hot at times in the sun. In the morning I drove into Bala and did my essential shopping then spent about an hour walking around Bala, through the town and alongside the lake (Llyn Tegid), taking a few photos along the way. I found the local Information Office by the lake and bought a book of local walks there - it looks promising. Rather than returning directly to the campsite I decided to do a circuit of the lake in the van - the initial part was straightforward, back along the main A494 that I had travelled on yesterday, but the return on the south-east side of the lake, on the minor B4403, was more difficult being for the most part a single-track road, but with caution and an occasional use of reverse, I made it successfully. After lunch back at the campsite, I decided to try one of the walks from the book which came fairly close to the campsite. Joining the circular route about one mile down the road from the site to Llandderfel, it passes over farmland and alongside a wood, in the direction of Bala allowing some good views in that direction and to the lake. It then follows the road (B4401) for a while before turning back on a footpath across farmland and then through woods towards Llandderfel. The walk through the wood could have been a much more pleasant one (and probably originally was) had it not become churned up as the 'playground' for 4 wheel drive vehicles. Again good views over the village and surrounding countryside as the path started to descend to Llandderfel. A pause for an ice-cream (following one of those hot spells), purchased from the tiny village Post Office/Provisions Store, then back along the road to the campsite, re-passing the point where I had joined the circular route. At the highest point on this road, where the breeze was at its strongest, I was joined by a red kite that circled around only about 20 or 30 feet above my head for several minutes before setting off in search for smaller prey - these birds now seem as common as any other around here. A much better day that yesterday ... after a walk an ice-cream and an avian encounter I feel much more at home.

Sunday 23 May

Although bright and sunny first thing in the morning and again in the evening, most of the day was cloudy and cool - but still no rain - this could turn out to be an all time record for me, a rain free holiday in Wales! In the morning I undertook another circular walk from the book bought yesterday. This time I joined the route about a half of a mile further up the minor road on which the campsite is situated. Another mixed trail of rocky hills, woodland and moorlands. The two main features of the walk were a small lake (Llyn Caer-Euni) in a patch of boggy upland moor and, soon after this, the views in all directions from the highest point of the walk. The return was by farm track and minor roads through the small village of Sarnau. The remaining short distance back to the campsite was prolonged by my wayward perambulations about a field just after passing through this village, looking for a way out. I could see a stile in one corner of the field but convinced myself that it was in the wrong direction and so spent about 20 minute trying to find the 'right' exit. Eventually I decided to try the 'wrong' stile and only after a short distance established that it was the right one after all - must be my age - but there were only a few sheep around to notice my embarrassment and it was quite a pleasant spot to wander around in for a while. I arrived back at the campsite soon after 1pm for lunch and, what was now becoming customary, an afternoon siesta.

Monday 24 May

Still dry, bright and sunny for most of the day and decidedly warmer - still no rain! In the morning a drove to Bodnant Garden, situated above the River Conwy, 8 miles south of Llandudno and Colwyn Bay. The owners of the garden, The National Trust, describe it as ... "one of the world's most spectacular gardens", and after this visit I am inclined to think that this is not a rash statement. As well as the Italianate formal terraces adjacent to the house, its main claims to fame are a wooded valley packed with azaleas and rhododendrons and a long arched tunnel of laburnums, all of which were in bloom at the time of my visit and quite spectacular. I happened upon the garden quite by chance while looking through the National Trust Handbook looking for something different to do on my last day in Wales (I like walking in Wales, but picking your way round all those sheep can get a bit boring after a while - and they have no conversation! - just an incessant baa, baa, baa...). But others, with more forethought than myself, had realised that this was an excellent time of the year to see the garden in bloom and as a result became quite crowded in places. The new camera got a lot of use - it was difficult to stop taking photos at times - and I twice got into conversation with people who were interested in taking up digital photography and enquired about the camera. Had lunch in the van before leaving Bodnant (the restaurant looked quite nice but was packed) getting back to the campsite about mid-afternoon, a round trip of about 70 miles. A thoroughly enjoyable day, possible the best of the trip, but how will I be able to edit all the photos down to a representative sample that won't take you all night to download from the internet? See if I've succeeded.

Tuesday 25 May

I left Wales this morning without having seen a drop of rain in the week and a half of my stay - I no longer need convincing about climate change! The day turned out to be fairly overcast, but warm. In the morning I travelled from Bala to Blackmore Camping and Caravanning Club Campsite in Worcestershire via the A5 to Shrewsbury, A49 to Leominster finally heading towards Worcester on the A44. The campsite is about 7 miles south of Worcester and 3 miles to the east of The Malverns on the edge of a village called Hanley Swan. This is a very large campsite with good facilities and would form an excellent base for visiting the West Midlands and also the Cotswolds, although a bit more expensive than other Camping and Caravanning Club sites - but for now this is just a one night stopover on my return home. In the afternoon I had a leisurely stroll around the campsite and then into Hanley Swan, with all the time in the world to sit by the village pond and watch the ducks - just to think, I could have still been sitting behind an office desk if I had wanted to - no question, I made the right decision.

Wednesday 26 May

Travelled home from Blackmore via Tewkesbury, Chipping Norton, Bicester, Aylesbury and the A41 - in fact the return of my outward journey. This was not what was intended, but the bridge at Upton-Upon-Seven - which was on my intended route to Evesham - was only open to cars and was also the source of severe traffic delays, I therefore diverted south to Tewkesbury, arriving there one hour after leaving the campsite having covered a distance of only 15 miles. I therefore arrive home for a slightly later lunch than anticipated. This ends the account of my trip to Wales - I hope you like it better than my spellchecker did!

June 2004

Sunday 13 June

Travelled from home to Boroughbridge Camping and Caravanning Club Campsite in Yorkshire, via the M11, A14 and A1. A couple of stops on the way, first for a food and fuel stop at Tesco, just north of Cambridge, then for a quick bite to eat for lunch in a lay-by. The campsite is to west of the town of Boroughbridge, only a mile or so off the A1(M) making it an ideal stopping off place - which is how I am using it, for one night only having made the 200 miles north on a relatively traffic free A1 on Sunday, I can now enjoy the more leisurely driving through the Yorkshire Dales, Durham and Northumberland that is to follow. I arrived at the campsite just after 2pm leaving time for a stroll into Boroughbridge in the afternoon and the nearby village of Roecliffe in the evening.

Monday 14 June

I didn't say much yesterday about the weather as it was just another one of those hot dry sunny days that I am now getting used to, but the weather-man on the radio this morning said it was all going to change over the next few days. Today would be hot dry and sunny again but then during the following days it would become windy and colder with rain. In the morning I drove from Boroughbridge to the Brown Moor Caravan Club Campsite at Hawes in the Yorkshire Dales, Wensleydale to be precise, taking a slightly roundabout (but scenic) route via Grassington, though Nidderdale and Wharfedale. I stopped for about an hour to have a wander around Grassington. One of the reasons for taking this route was the possibility of getting some photographs of the area, but for most of the journey it was overcast with the higher fells in cloud (but I thought the weather-man said…), so no photos. It also turned quite windy, but at least the sun returned after I arrived in Hawes. The campsite is just to the north of Hawes and is very well laid out with roads and all pitches being gravel hardstandings, interspersed with trees and shrubs (but the fees are according that much more expensive). In the afternoon I walked into Hawes and had a look around, my only purchase being a leaflet describing several local walks, all starting from Hawes. I last visited the Dales nearly 20 years ago, camping (a small backpacking tent then) at both Grassington and Hawes, but I found that there was very little I recognised from my earlier visits in either towns, both now seems uniform tourist shops, tea rooms and pubs.

Tuesday 15 June

The weather threatened to turn worse, as predicted by the weather forecast, being cloudy and windy in the morning but by afternoon the wind has dropped to a breeze and the sun was in the ascendancy again with only a scattering of fleecy white (photogenic) clouds around. No sign of rain. I decided to try two of the shorter circular walks from the leaflet I bought yesterday, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. The morning one, about 4 miles long, took me up alongside the Gayle Beck, south from Hawes, past Aysgill Force, to seemingly remote farmland, typical of The Dales, then back along a farm track to Hawes. The sun started to put in an appearance as I was on the return part of the walk and presented me with the first photo opportunity of the day, looking back towards the farmland. The other factor which gave the remote feeling to the landscape was the presence and calling of both lapwings and curlews in the area, both probably nesting. After lunch back at the campsite, I set out on another route (3.5 miles), this time to the north of Hawes. This was across fields to the small (and very quaint - in fact it almost seemed to be a bit too quaint, designed for the picture postcard) village of Sedbusk, then turning west thought a series of very small fields to the hamlet of Simonstone, then south to Hardraw where the route joined the Pennine Way back to Hawes. Although the route did not climb too far up the side of the Dale it did present some great views looking towards Hawes nestling in Wensleydale. When passing through Hardraw I took the opportunity of re-visiting Hardraw Force (a waterfall) - I was glad to see that this had not been over-commercialised since I visited it nearly 20 years ago, you still have to enter the path to the fall through the pub and pay the entrance charge there and the route to the fall is still in the process of being repaired, the bridge to the left bank now being unsafe. Possibly try a longer and higher walk tomorrow?

Wednesday 16 June

Awoke to find an overcast sky - the weather is sure to break today, isn't it? I waited awhile to see how the weather would develop and therefore if a 'higher' walk would be appropriate. Initially the cloud seemed quite high, so off I set, only to return after a short distance having seen the advance of much lower and ominous clouds. But only to change my attire, considering a waterproof jacket more appropriate than a sun hat. The walk started on the same path as yesterday afternoon, north from Hawes to the village of Sedbusk, but rather than turning west the route continued to climb, first on a farm track then on a bridleway past Smuker Hill to reach North Rakes Hill. By this time the landscape was open fell and the cloud had descended, so the "superb views down into the Dale" promised by map leaflet did not materialise (anyway, the camera had been left back in the dry of the motorcaravan), although the pauses I had during the climb gave me plenty of opportunities to look back to admire views before the all was obscured. The route then turned west to cross Stags Fell, at an elevation of 530m, on an unexpectedly new gravel track-way. The reason the track looked so new eventually appeared out of the clouds, diggers and dumper trucks, they were actually in the process of making this new "road" on the line of the bridleway - I didn't really expect to come across roadworks here! After passing a few more ethereally named topographical features, Little Moss, Bleak Haw and Pike Hill, the bridleway descends to a road which leads back to Hawes. The route detours from this road after a while to take a path through Shaw Gill Wood. This Gill is situated above the waterfall, Hardraw Force, which I visited yesterday - a mile or so of delightful path by the wooded Gill for free today, a few hundred yards and a waterfall cost me £2 yesterday. The creak of the gate as I entered the path caused a sudden movement of iridescent turquoise in the periphery of my vision soon to be followed by a similarly coloured dart swiftly disappearing along the Gill - a kingfisher no doubt - would I see it again, I didn't even have time to reach for my binoculars. If I was a really dedicated birdwatcher, I would have stayed there, for several hours if necessary, to make certain of getting another view of the bird, but although I lingered a while I do not possess such dedication - and by then it was past lunch time and I still had some distance to go before getting back to the campsite and food - so I didn't see it again. The route in total was listed in the leaflet as 7 miles and following my dithering about the weather I didn't get off until nearly 11am so I was quite surprised to get back to the camp site as early as 1:30pm - I suppose the poor weather kept me on the move - but I decided this was enough exercise for the day and after lunch spent the remainder of the day relaxing on the campsite. The irony was that after I returned the low cloud disappeared and the rest of the day was bright and sunny - come to thinks of it, even though it was cold and damp walking across the fell in the morning, it didn't actually rain, but the weatherman this evening has forecast that this is about to change … again!

Thursday 17 June

Well I suppose by the law of averages the weather forecast occasionally turns out to be right - yes it rained quite a bit overnight and was still raining occasionally during the morning, with a few sunny breaks in between. In the morning a drove from Hawes to the Barnard Castle Camping and Caravanning Club Campsite in County Durham. As the crow flies this is only a distance of about 20 miles, but crows don't have to keep to roads that are suitable for motorcaravans and the shortest reasonable route would have taken over 40 miles, but I wanted to see a bit more of the Dales so my scenic route was over 70 miles. I first headed east down Wensleydale (and towards to sun) as far at Leyburn, then turned north heading in the direction of Richmond, but where the A648 turns to the east to follow Swaledale towards Richmond, I turned west (towards the cloud and rain) to head up Swaledale on the B6270, through Birk Dale and a pass over the Pennines into Cumbria, with the amazing panorama of the Lake District in the distance in one direction and the Scottish Boarders in another, both partially obscured by cloud and rain. The road through the pass was very narrow but fortunately with very little traffic I could travel slowly enough to appreciate the scenery without compromising my safety or anyone else's. On reaching Kirkby Steven my route then turned briefly northward again (and into heavy rain) to Brough, then west on the A66 (towards brighter skies) to Barnard Castle. I arrived just after noon - I think the journey would have taken longer in good weather as there would have been plenty of stops for photographs, as it was there were none. The Campsite is about a mile and a half to the west of Barnard Castle, a turning off the B6277 just before the village of Lartington. I visited this site for one night only last year on my way back from Scotland and thought then it would be worth a longer stay. It is fairly small and out of the way, making it just the sort of peaceful campsite that I enjoy (Hawes although immaculately laid out just seemed too busy), but with plenty of bird life on and around the site. In the afternoon I walked in to Barnard Castle and had a look around. There is a public footpath which starts just by the campsite entrance, goes through and adjoining farm, stables and paddocks, then though a small wood adjoining Deepdale Beck, and does not emerge onto the road until you are almost in Barnard Castle. A pleasant walk and Barnard Castle will be worth a return visit with camera, although it did not rain is was very overcast with dark black clouds - I need something better than that to take my camera with me!

Friday 18 June

A good day for, relaxing, reading and contemplation on the campsite - well, yes it rained. The rain started falling persistently yesterday evening and was still raining in the morning (probably all night as well) and continued up until early afternoon. The persistent rain then stopped and was replaced with intermittent sunshine and heavy showers. In the morning I did not venture out at all, but in the afternoon, during one of the longer sunny breaks, I had a walk around some of the fields and woods adjoining the campsite having discovered that there were several "permissive" paths allowing such access. The variety of bird life is quite wide, with lapwings, curlews, rooks, crows, jackdaws, blackbirds, thrushes, chaffinches, goldfinches, greenfinches, treecreepers and many more finches and (I think) buntings that I couldn't positively put a name to, even with my bird identification book to hand. So not an entirely wasted day, but I hope the weather improves for tomorrow for a further look at Barnard Castle.

Saturday 19 June

The weather did improve - yesterday evening the clouds disappeared and the sun was bright, leading to a clear cold night and although first thing this morning some cloud had returned it was still relatively bright - but it did not last, rain had set in before I had finished my breakfast and what followed was a rainy day with some bright intervals, there was also quite a cold wind blowing from the north-west. Not what one would expect just approaching mid-summer, but then maybe it is. I did walk into Barnard Castle again in the morning, despite the weather, and took a few photographs of The Castle and The Bowes Museum, but it was quite overcast and I will have to use my 'skills' of digital manipulation to make anything of the pictures. Got rained upon twice but nothing life threatening - the path had become quite muddy and slippery in places, which could have been. In the afternoon the rain set in more persistently so I stayed in the dry of my motorcaravan and read some more.

Sunday 20 June

Another cold night, followed by a day of mixed sunshine and showers. Drove from Barnard Castle to Kielder Water Caravan Club Campsite, this time taking the shortest route (which was also quite scenic) to West Auckland then north on the A68 until Corbridge/Hexham, then on B-roads and unclassified roads to Kielder Forest. The campsite is located in the Leaplish Waterside Park on the southern side of Kielder Water. Within this Park, as well as the campsite, there is a Restaurant and Bar, Swimming Pool, Waterski Club, Bird of Prey Centre, Crazy Golf Course and it is also a landing point for the ferry service which circles the Water. I could try out some of these before I leave - well maybe not the Waterski Club. Having arrived at the site about 1pm, after a shopping stop at Safeways in Barnard Castle, lunch was followed by a walk down through all the attractions of the Park to the waterside. A bit of good sunny weather reminded me to get the camera out again for a few photos of the lake, some from the waterside and some from back at the campsite. During my brief walk I noticed a large number of fairly friendly chaffinches which are resident in the park, but I only became aware of how friendly they were when I started taking photos on the campsite. As I finished taking one of the photos one very bold chaffinch flew up and almost perched on the camera, then dropped to the ground at my feet. I then became aware that there were several on the ground all around me, all forlornly looking up at me expecting to be fed. To their disappointment I just carried on taking photos and even when I moved around they still remained there. Then it occurred to me, what they really wanted was to have their photos taken, so I obliged. The other, less friendly residents of the campsite, are midges - but I was warned about these and have come prepared, I hope.

Monday 21 June

More sunshine and showers today, but the showers were considerably longer in duration, and heavier, with hail for a brief period in the afternoon - it was Mid-Summers Day after all. It appears that it is the midges that determine when activities start and end on this campsite, they materialise between about 6 and 8pm in the evening and do not subside until after 10am in the morning therefore the human residents of the site can only function under reasonably normal conditions between 10am and 6pm at other time all strange sorts of attire can be seen in an effort to keep the midges out - I knew that hood on the top that I have been wearing around campsites for the last few years would eventually come in useful for something. For the above reason, I made a later start to my intended morning walk, about 11pm. I walked from the campsite to, and then around Bull Crag Peninsular, a finger of land which stretches out into the southern part of Kielder Water. The walk is well signposted and initially the path was wide and of recently laid gravel, making for easy walking. But path on the southern part of the peninsular has only an old narrow track of gravel to define it and, being mid-summer, the grasses and ferns on either side had encroached - normally walking through such high grasses and ferns would be of no consequence, but as one of the aforementioned heavy and prolonged showers commenced just before reaching this section it was all very wet, and so were my trousers after walking through it. The rain carried on until I was almost back to the campsite (at about 1:30pm) - this is what I remember walking used to be like, after all this hot sunny weather we have been having recently I had quite forgotten what a 'real' British walk was like. Afternoon was spent drying out, eating and reading, in that order. I also discovered that, as the campsite is located behind and above the Bird of Prey Centre I can look down on their afternoon flying displays from my motorcaravan - that saves me one admission fee!

Tuesday 22 June

The weather today was superb! It did not rain and it was sunny without being too hot, ideal for walking so I immediately abandoned all other plans that I was considering. Most amazingly all the midges seemed to have disappeared - they seemed to have got fed up with the weather and, like many of the campers who were on the site yesterday, packed their bags and gone elsewhere. So I was able to set out on my walk earlier today, soon after 9am. Initially north on the shoreline path then on the road for a while until I reached my intended destination of Lewis Burn. From the car park here, there is a waymarked trail up one side of the burn and then down the other - a delightful little walk as it follows a valley which appears to have been virtually untouched by the Forestry Commissions desire to cover the country in conifers during the mid-twentieth century. Kielder Forest is immense and almost entirely coniferous. The cross country footpath (shown on the OS map) I was intending to use for my return could not be positively located so I walked back along the road to the campsite (I saw no sign of the footpath where it should have joined the road either - it appears to have been replaced by an off-road cycle track which appears on neither the OS map or the Kielder Walks maps that I bought). The advantage of taking the road, however, was that it gave me an excellent opportunity for a panoramic photo of Kielder Water, including Leaplish Waterside Park. I returned to site just before 1pm, feeling quite content with my days walk and so settled down for some relaxation in the sun, outside on a midge free campsite - I couldn't have done that on the first two days that I was here. The friendly little chaffinches returned while I was sitting outside eating my lunchtime sandwich and this time the forlorn looks (pleading "feed me") got the better of me and I distributed a crust of bread - before long I had more than twenty of them surrounding me - but they are fickle little creatures and as soon as the bread was gone so were they, only to return later to some new arrivals two bays along from me when they started to feed them - such is life.

Wednesday 23 June

The weather goes from the superb to the abysmal. It started to rain overnight and I awoke to find leaden grey skies and persistent rain. This eased after about 10pm and during my journey looked as though it was going to brighten up, but on approaching the east coast I met cloud, fog and rain, and that grey feeling again. I drove from Kielder Water to Dunstan Hill Camping and Caravanning Club Campsite in morning. The route was nearly all on B-Roads, through the wild countryside of Northumberland and the villages of Otterburn, Rothbury and Alnwick, stopping off at the National Trust property of Cragside. This property really requires a full day to explore properly, with house, gardens and a circular estate drive of 6 miles - I contented myself with a quick look at the formal gardens (mostly flattened by the overnight rain) the outside of the house (a Victorian house designed for the 1st Lord Armstrong by R. Norman Shaw) and the inside of the restaurant before moving on. The campsite is located close the Northumberland coast, just inland from Dunstanburgh Castle, one that I have visited before and came away with a good impression of. However, that visit was 'off-season' in late September when the site was fairly empty, today it looks almost full and feels it - the damp and dreary weather not helping with the impression - hope things improve. After arriving at the campsite mid-afternoon, the weather did not encourage me to venture out again, so I didn't.

Thursday 24 June

So what's worse than abysmal? - well the weather was today - it continued to rain overnight and for most of today, persistently and fairly hard, with only a short pause for lunch. It eventually stopped at about 6pm - funny, the campsite doesn't look so full now, but much wetter. The result was that I did not attempt anything today apart from a wander round the campsite this evening - the forecast is for better weather tomorrow, I hope that's right.

Friday 25 June

The weather couldn't get any worse so it decided to get better. A bright sunny start followed by a cloudy but bright morning, the cloud gradually disappearing over the afternoon and by the evening, cloudless sunny skies - and not a hint of rain all day. In the morning I walked from the campsite to the coast and then south past Dunstanburgh Castle and through the village of Craster to a point just south of that village where the coastal path turns inland - and then returned to the campsite by the same route for lunch. I walked the same route two years ago when I was here last and took many photographs of the castle and the village so I tried to resist the temptation of taking more - and I almost succeeded. A lot of seabirds to look at, including nesting gulls and guillemots on the cliffs at Dunstanburgh and at the southernmost point of my walk. In the afternoon I walked back to the coast again but this time turned north, walking across the sands of Embleton Bay now being exposed by the low tide. Again plenty of birds to look at, most striking were the flocks of terns (possible Common Terns or Sandwich Terns - or both) fishing just off-shore. During this walk, as the sun gradually gained in prominence, I remembered the last time I walked this way that there was a small pub at the end of this beach (at Low Newton-by-the-Sea) which sold an excellent pint of Guinness - so I though I ought to check out if both facts were still correct (just for the record), and they were. I returned partly by the beach but turned inland to walk through the village of Embleton before arriving back at the campsite just after 4pm.

Saturday 26 June

The weather forecast predicted a change from the bright clear skies overnight to increasing cloud and rain by mid-afternoon. I therefore planned my day, possibly rather foolishly, around this forecast - but it was right! Therefore, fairly early in the morning I cycled from the campsite to Bamburgh Castle, a distance of about 10 miles. I walked around the Castle and along the beach taking numerous photographs, although by then the sun was only vaguely discernible through a veil of cloud. It was noticeable that the Castle was flying the flag of St George, the only such flag of its kind that I saw on display today - strange that only a day or so ago I seemed to see that flag flying everywhere, I wonder what's changed? I decided against waiting for the castle to open to view the interior as the wind had picked up considerably and the forecast rain was on my mind. I cycled back by the same route to arrive back at the campsite by 12:30pm and before the rain arrived (at about 1:30pm). Funny how on all my cycle rides the return journey always seems to be uphill and against the wind. The afternoon was spent in the motorcaravan, watching the rain and starting to think about my return drive to London tomorrow.

Sunday 27 June

Travelled home from Dunstan Hill via the A1, A14 and M11, setting out just after 8am and arriving in London just after 2pm, only stopping for 'brunch' and fuel. Good weather throughout the trip, in fact the clear bright morning tempted me to divert towards Bamburgh for some further photos in better lighting conditions but I resisted the temptation in view of the long drive ahead - 330 miles in total.

July 2004

Monday 12 July

Travelled from home to Ferry Meadows Caravan Club Campsite in Peterborough, initially taking minor roads (the old A11) to avoid the M11 then to Royston and joining the A1(M) near Huntingdon for the last part of the journey to Peterborough. Arrived just after 1pm. The campsite is located in the Ferry Meadows Country Park which stretches alongside the River Nene – this seems to be quite extensive with lakes, paths and cycle ways, but I have yet to explore it fully. In the afternoon I first walked to the nearby Visitors Centre in the Park and bought the local tourism and cycle map as, weather permitting, cycling is my main intention for the four days that I will be staying here – well the countryside around here is a lot flatter than the Yorkshire Dales, Kielder Water or Northumbria in general. After studying this map back at the motorcaravan (while a rain shower passed) I then cycled the three miles or so from the campsite into the centre of Peterborough completely on off-road cycle tracks alongside the river – this looks promising! After a walk around the shops (passing some time in the large Queensgate Shopping Centre waiting for another rain shower to pass) I cycled back on a slightly different route. From the above it can be seen that the “typical" British Summer Weather is continuing, being not too warm, cloudy and with the occasional shower.

Tuesday 13 July

The weather reverted to warm and sunny today, although further cool cloudy weather is forecast for later this week. In the morning I cycled into the centre of Peterborough again, but this time continued eastwards along a cycle track on the north bank of the River Nene as far as the Shanks Millennium Bridge (an interesting curved structure which crosses the river, and which I forgot to take photos of as I was distracted by my cycle chain jumping off just as I was about to cross the bridge) and then on south of the river to the small town of Whittlesey. After a stroll around the centre of this town I returned along a cycle track which kept to the south of the river until it reached the centre of Peterborough. I continued westwards to reach the campsite in time for lunch. After a break, my enthusiasm for the cycle tracks of Peterborough led me to try out some of the more urban tracks to the south of the city in the district of Orton in the afternoon. This area was quite clearly built at part of the “new town” expansion of the City (i.e. lots of small, contrived, but aesthetically pleasing dwellings, and roads that lead nowhere) and the signposting of the cycle tracks is somewhat sporadic, whether by lack of foresight or due to vandalism – I had to consult the map I purchased yesterday very frequently and still managed to take the wrong route on several occasions. By the evening I realised I had been away almost two days without taking a photograph and so, as the evening sun promised much potential in this respect, I had a walk alongside some of the lakes within the Ferry Meadows Park and persuaded some geese, ducks and one swan to pose for some photos.

Wednesday 14 July

From the point of view of the weather it was a day of two halves, the morning being cool and cloudy with occasional rain, the afternoon bright sunny and warm. I choose to sit out the morning’s weather in the motorcaravan and leave further cycling until the afternoon. In the afternoon I explored more of the cycle paths within the park and those immediately outside the park to the east and the north. In an eastward direction this took me initially alongside the Nene Valley Railway, arriving at one level crossing just in time to see one of the steam engines pass, then on to the village of Castor. Then back westwards into the park again and then out again into the district of Longthorpe before circling round back into the park and to the campsite joining the now familiar route from the city centre. A shorter trip a bit later in the afternoon filled in the gaps in my knowledge of the cycle paths in the eastern part of the park close to the campsite. I have referred to “the park” several time above without identifying it, for a reason – I am confused. I initially referred to it as the Ferry Meadows Country Park and the map I bought also uses this name for the area that the campsite lies within. But most of the signs (where there are signs) direct you to Nene Park and vehicles carry the name of the Nene Valley Park Trust. Is Ferry Meadows part of Nene Park or an alternative name for it? As I said, I am confused. No further photos today – I wonder why I bought that new camera.

Thursday 15 July

Today was a dull, cloudy, drizzly day, but not cold – quite the contrary - warm and humid. In the morning I cycled into the centre of Peterborough again (the route is becoming so familiar now that I can now anticipate the pot-holes) and parked my bike for a wander around. First to the cathedral, with some photos of the exterior while the drizzle held off, then a walk around the interior when the drizzle turned to rain. Then on to the shops and also some estate agent window shopping – there is some relatively cheap property around here that might suite a single retired gentleman – food for thought! Back to the campsite for lunch then a further leisurely cycle around the park in the afternoon between rain showers.

Friday 16 July

I had thought of have one final cycle ride or walk around the park before leaving, but the persistent rain which greeted me this morning decided against that. Therefore I left the campsite at about 9:30am and drove home, again using minor roads for the most part and avoiding the A1(M) and M11. The campsite, which was fairly full for most of my stay, was now full to overflowing at my departure with a noticeable influx of children towards the end of the week as schools broke-up for the summer holidays. Next trip not until September I think!

September 2004

Tuesday 14 September

Travelled from home to Sandringham Camping and Caravanning Club Campsite in Norfolk, via the M11, A14 and A10. Well that was the intended route - the A14 Eastbound which links the end of the M11 to the A10 had been closed by the police just prior to my arrival, resulting in me (together with, it seemed, half the lorries in the UK) being diverted through narrow country roads and small villages before joining up with the A10 just south of Ely. Needless to say this added considerably to the length of my journey. I arrived at the campsite just after mid-day. The weather during my journey had been fine and quite sunny, but as soon as I arrived at the campsite it started to rain quite heavily - as forecast. Therefore apart from a few short walks around the campsite I didn't do too much more during the rest of the day - a potential walk into the surrounding woodland was cut short before I left the campsite by the sight of very dark clouds approaching. This campsite, just south of Sandringham House, is now becoming very well known to me - at least one visit a year - and provides a very relaxed and spacious environment for camping.

Wednesday 15 September

A fine bright sunny day (as forecast), but with a breeze coming from the north, so not too warm. In the morning I cycled to Kings Lynn, partly for exercise and sightseeing, but also for some essential shopping - it wasn't just the laptop I forgot to bring with me. The route is part of the Nation Cycle Route 1, which runs past the campsite, at least half of which is off-road cycle paths. I found that the shopping centre in Kings Lynn is being rebuilt at the moment, so where I expected to find all the large stores I found a very large building site instead. But I did find the articles of shopping I was looking for. Cycled back to the campsite for lunch. In the afternoon I cycled around some of the country lanes close to the campsite and visited the decayed round towered church of St Mary's at Appleton and took some photographs. On my previous visits to Sandringham I had seen this church from the main road and had always intended to visit it to 'add it to my collection'. During my studies of such churches in the 1970's I didn't visit this one, it being fairly remote from the majority which are situated in the East of the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk. From there I cycled to the village of Dersingham and then back to the campsite - to complete a circumnavigation of Sandringham House - I don't thinks that treasonable!

Thursday 16 September

A cold start to the day, but it remained bright and dry all day - warming up sufficiently in the afternoon to allow shorts to be worn. In the morning I repeated a walk that I found last year when I visited this area, from the campsite to, and then around, the Dersingham Nature Reserve which is within the Sandringham Estate but managed by English Nature. A pleasant walk, but not much in the way of 'active' nature to observe - possibly the cold. In the afternoon I cycled to Houghton Hall and thankfully found that it still opened on the same day of the week it did a few years ago when I picked up a leaflet on the property (I couldn't fin any current ones on this visit). The house was built by Sir Horace Walpole (Britain's first Prime Minister) in the 1720's in the Palladian style using architects James Gibb and Colen Campbell, with interiors by William Kent. Opulent is a word used in the pamphlet to describe the interiors and furnishings and it certainly true, the cost (to the Nation?) must have been astronomical - apparently the accounts for this work were deliberately destroyed. Took many photos of the exterior of the house with my new camera, but the sun kept disappearing behind clouds at inappropriate times - hopefully the photo enhancement software I have can work some miracles on the images. After a tour of the house and the gardens I cycled back to the campsite. For part of the journey I was joined by a couple on very expensive looking touring cycles. During our conversations I discovered that he had received his cycle as a 65th birthday present exactly one year ago and that during the intervening year he and his wife had successfully completed a cycle ride from Land's End to John O Groats. His wife also had a similar cycle. Puts my pathetically short cycle rides into the shade - you will note I'm not quoting any distances in this diary!

Friday 17 September

A complete change of weather from yesterday - rain for most of the morning, drying up by lunchtime but remaining overcast all day. I travelled from the Sandringham campsite to the West Runton Camping and Caravanning Club campsite near Cromer by the North Norfolk Coast Road (A148), but with two intermediate stopping points. First back to King's Lynn to replenish my stock of provisions at Tesco. Then the RSPB Reserve at Titchwell. I walked from the Reserve Visitor's Centre to the beach, occasionally taking shelter from the rain in the bird watching hides on the way. Most people in the hides were looking out of the windows at the birds, so, in order to blend unobtrusively into my surroundings I produced my binoculars and joined in - well at least until the rain eased off again. I had visited the campsite at West Runton before. It is quite a large site, hidden in the folds of the hills just inland of the coastal village of West Runton. Yes, there are hills in Norfolk and the nearby summit, called Incleborough Hill reaches the magnificent height of 79 metres above sea level, as confirmed by the OS Map. In the late afternoon I walked over this hill, down through the village and on to reach the beach. Then back again. No photos today - not the weather for it.

Saturday 18 September

I managed to coordinate my activities with the weather today - pure accident but its nice when it happens. A morning walk in the sunshine and an afternoon spent in the van while it was raining. In the morning I walked to Cromer using the North Norfolk Coastal Path which runs by the site. I spent time window shopping, promenading and visiting the end of the pier. Much of the town of Cromer is familiar to me from my childhood, but on this visit I made the point of taking some photographs - something I have always neglected in the past due to the familiarity. One event I happened upon, and photographed, was an assembly of Honda Gold Wing Motorcycles immediately in front of the pier, glinting in the bright sunshine. I walked back along the beach, having made absolutely certain that the tide was on its way out. In doing so I walked past the sand cliffs at West Runton which have revealed many archaeological finds, including in the mid 1990's an entire mammoth. Can't remember that from my childhood so it must have wandered in between then and now! Got back to the campsite in the early afternoon for a late lunch, then a siesta while I watched the rain outside the motorcaravan. Forecast for tomorrow is sun all the way - good, as I'm planning more walking.

Sunday 19 September

The weather forecast was correct, it stayed dry all day, and mostly quite sunny, but there was a blustery breeze which kept things cool. In the morning I walked West from the campsite, keeping to 'high' ground, passing through West Runton Wood, Beeston Regis Heath, Sheringwood, the village of Upper Sheringham and on into Sheringham Park. Much of the woodland and Sheringham Park is National Trust property, West Runton Wood boasting the highest point in Norfolk, all 101 metres above sea level. The Park was designed in 1812 by Humphrey Repton in the English Landscape Garden Style, for Sheringham Hall, which still stands within the Park but is not accessible to the public. Also in the Park is a structure called The Gazebo, which I went to investigate. It was not what I anticipated, but an open steel and timber structure on top of a hill, serving as a viewing platform above tree top level. Quite impressive views from the top - but not really what my dictionary defines a gazebo to be (a summerhouse etc.), possibly there used to be one there? From the Park I followed a footpath down to the coastal path. On the way the path crosses over the North Norfolk (Steam) Railway and I came upon a group of people waiting on this bridge, presumably for a train to pass. However, before any train arrived we were all treated to a multiple fly-pass by a WW2 Hurricane fighter aircraft. Apparently this day was an anniversary for the Railway and this was part of the celebrations. - so I got photos of both plane and train (the plane photo turned out to be a bit distant - but reasonable). The remained of the walk, back along the cliff-top coastal path through Sheringham over the Beeston 'Bump' and back inland to the campsite, was quite uneventful. Back again for a late lunch at the campsite where I rested for the remainder of the day. Rain is forecast for tomorrow which could foil my plans for my final day here.

Monday 20 September

Quite an amount of rain during the early part of the day (until mid-afternoon), but I carried on with my plan for the day regardless - and got wet. After a bit of 'housekeeping' on the motorcaravan during the first part of the morning (well I do need to clean it once in a while) I walked South from the campsite, mostly on minor roads, to Felbrigg Hall. Just as I arrived at the gate to the Estate it started to rain quite heavily and, unfortunately for me, there was still nearly half a mile to go to reach the shelter of the buildings adjacent to the Hall - so as I said, I got wet, although some of the large spreading trees of the estate did offer me some protection from the worst of the deluges. Felbrigg Hall is a National Trust property, the present house dating from about 1620 (the south front and entrance), with various additions later in the 17th century and yet more in the 18th. Much of the ornate interior plasterwork dates from these latter periods of building. It also has and interesting garden, I understand, but persuaded by the weather, I found the menu in restaurant a much greater attraction while I was waiting for the house to open at 1pm, In between the heavy rain showers I did manage to take some exterior photographs, some, quite surprisingly, in bright sunshine. After the walk back to the campsite (and more rain), I did not stir from the motorcaravan again - although it did not rain again throughout the rest of the day.

Tuesday 21 September

A bright, sunny but very windy day - quite cool too. I travelled home from West Runton, but by a circuitous route. Initially towards Norwich, then Ipswich on the A140 and then the A143 past Bury St Edmunds to my intended mid-journey stopping point of Ickworth House in Suffolk. Ickworth House is National Trust property, with central Rotunda and curved wings in an Italianate Style. The building was begun in 1795 "by the eccentric Hervey, Frederick, 4th Earl of Bristol and Bishop of Derry", and was designed solely to show off his collection of treasures obtained throughout Europe. The house still contains works by Titian, Velasquez and Gainsborough, as well as many portraits of the Hervey family and depictions of naval battles in which they were involved. The thing I found slightly odd about the building, from an architectural point of view, was that the very unusual and positive circular external forms of the building, in particular the Rotunda, were hardly anywhere reflected in the major internal features - rectangular rooms, rectangular staircases and even the central skylight to the dome on the Rotunda is rectangular. But then I never really got to grips with what architecture was all about - or so I was told. From there I resumed my journey back home via the A14 and M11.

Between my September travels and these in October I purchased a removable GPS Navigation System for use in the motorcaravan, called Tom Tom GO. I have added a link on the external links page of this website if you want to find out more about this unit. I experimented with the system before using it during this journey and was very impressed. I have already downloaded via the internet "points of interest" locations and installed them in the unit's memory, these include; Caravan Club Sites, National Trust Properties, Nature Reserves, Tesco's Supermarkets, Police 'Safety' Cameras and several others.

October 2004

Sunday 10 October

I travelled from home to Losehill Caravan Club Campsite, Derbyshire, via the M25, M1 and A619, thinking that as it was a Sunday those roads would be relatively quiet compared to a weekday and I should be able to make good progress on the 200 or so miles to the campsite. But... first the M25 had been closed at the A10 junction leading to an enormous tailback (at least an hours delay) and causing me to have to make my way 'across country' to the M1; then ... the M1 was closed at junction 29, the junction I wanted to leave the motorway at, but I did have warning of this and planned to leave at junction 28, about 10 miles before junction 29. The tailback for the closure actually started before my intended revised turn-off causing many others to make the same decision - my journey on the A61 to rejoin my intended route at Chesterfield was therefore a very slow one. So having had the intention of arriving at the campsite at about 1pm for lunch I actually arrived at about 3:30pm feeling very hungry. Enough of my moans, what about the campsite. It is situated in the heart of the Peak District National Park, just outside the village of Castleton, surrounded on three sides by a ridge of hills, Mam Tor and Lose Hill being the most prominent peaks. By the time I had fed myself, I only had time for a short walk around the village to get my bearings before the sun sank beneath the brow of the hills, well they are to the West. I will investigate more fully tomorrow - possibly when there are less people around visiting the masses of 'touristy' shops selling all sorts of things which nobody needs but which many find indispensable. (I think my journey has put me in a bad, cynical mood ... so I better stop there.) The weather was good, by the way, but I had little opportunity to take advantage of it.

Monday 11 October

Weather dry with occasional glimpses of the sun, but a fairly strong, cold wind persisted all day. I returned to Castleton in the morning to investigate, and photograph, many of the small streets which make up the village. It looks much better without the tourist and would look even better still without the cars which intrude on nearly all the photos. (Spot the hypocrisy in the last statement!). I then continued my walk on footpaths to the west of the village keeping to the (relatively) low ground - passing Peveril Castle, Peak Cavern and Speedwell Cavern on my way, but resisting the temptation to part with my money to enter any of them. I then ascended Winnats Pass though which the road to Chapel-en-le-Frith passes having changed from an 'A' classified road to an unclassified road just outside Castleton. I was interested in seeing this road as the Caravan Club, in their handbook, advise against the use of this road for approaching or leaving their site - only a 1 in 5 hill and plenty of width so I can't see what the fuss is about, I'm certain I tackled worse in the van last year in Scotland, so I will give it a try on my departure from the campsite. I then continued a circular walk from the top of the pass, getting a close up view and photos of Mam Tor from below, then past Blue John Cavern and Treak Cliff Cavern back to rejoin the footpath to Castleton. Again I resisted the temptation to part with any of my money. Back to the campsite for lunch. In the afternoon I was tempted by a footpath which started not far from the campsite and which I had now passed four times of my walks to Castleton and back. It had a sign at its beginning proclaiming "Public Footpath to Hope". Well, to a cynic like me I thought this was too good an opportunity to miss, so I set out on my pilgrimage, arriving at the village of Hope about three-quarters of an hour later. So I'm still a cynic - but a pleasant walk nevertheless, mainly alongside a meandering stream. Well those were relatively easy walks - am I going to try something more strenuous and adventurous tomorrow?

Tuesday 12 October

The intention was good; to walk a circuit to the West of Castleton on higher ground than yesterday - but then I awoke to find grey skies and very low clouds, only just above the height of the hills I was planning to walk - and rain was forecast for later. But there were many alternatives available to divert from my chosen path back to Castleton if the weather did close in as expected, so I set out reasonably early to see how far I could get. The circuit started in a back street in Castleton, a small path between houses leading to Cave Dale - you could easily miss it if it were not for the signpost. However once past a small group of trees to the back of the houses you are immediately transported to another world - or so it seems - a deep gully with high cliffs on either side cut into the hillside by nature. It reminded me of the canyons I've seen cowboys riding into in Western Movies when they are just about to be ambushed around the next bend - although the illusion is spoilt somewhat by the grazing sheep and the Norman Castle (Peveril) on top of the cliff to the West. The path (The Limestone Way) ascends fairly steeply up this Dale which gradually opens out to rough pasture. A track then transverses this high (400m +) pasture and heads towards Mam Tor passing an aptly named Windy Knoll on the way. It was during this transverse that the first few spots of rain fell, and the height of this track gave me a good view of the weather that was approaching - not promising. I did actually start the last part of the climb to Mam Tor but due to the gradually decreasing weather conditions and the prospect of the next few miles of the walk being on a high ridge, I prospect that I would be apprehensive about even in good weather, decided that I would take the cowards way out and retreat back downhill to Castleton. So I made it back to the campsite for an early lunch and only got slightly damp. As forecast the weather gradually worsened in the afternoon, cloud obscuring the tops of the hills with more persistent rain setting in later. I didn't venture out again. I head further north tomorrow, to the Lake District, but it sounds from the weather forecasts that the rain will still be with me - I note, with interest, that the campsite that I am heading for has a bar on site!

Wednesday 13 October

Weather forecast correct - misty to start with with rain spreading from south after mid-day. With this in mind I set out on my journey to the next campsite reasonable early and managed to arrive before mid-day and therefore rain free. The route took me from Castleton, up Winnats Pass - the van managing the 1 in 5 accent in second gear - on to the A6 towards Manchester, then around it on the M60 and M61 leading on to the M6 and the Lake District. The campsite is the Windermere Camping and Caravanning Club Site, situated between Kendal and Windermere off the A591. It is actually closer to Kendal than Windermere, but the Club already had a Kendal site before it acquired this one. This is a very big site, although only the hardstanding pitches appear to be being used at the present time with only an isolated tent on the grass. It is quite remote, no local village to walk to and I have yet to try out the on-site bar and eating facilities. As the rain set in fairly soon after I had arrived and lunched, I did very little in the afternoon save for a walk around the campsite late in the afternoon after the rain had eased. I did intend to investigate the lane which runs towards Windermere from the site as a possible start for a walk in that direction, but after the rain it was very wet and muddy - boots needed!

Thursday 14 October

The weather did not look promising when I awoke; thick fog and a forecast of rain later. But although the fog/mist/low cloud persisted off and on in the morning the rain did not materialise, in fact the fog lifted in the afternoon and for a while there was bright, warm sunshine. In the morning I walked from the campsite, down the lane which I started to investigate yesterday which linked up, within a mile or so, to the Dales Way which leads to Bowness-on-Windermere, to the West that is. I presume that the path leads East to the Yorkshire Dales, otherwise it is quite lost in the Lake District. The route is partly on gated roads and partly across rough, rocky pasture which after yesterdays rain was very muddy in places. I arrived in Bowness at about mid-day, ready for lunch, but decided in view of the very muddy state of my boots and trousers that a restaurant was out of the question, so a take-away pasty and a bottle of water sufficed for lunch. In the afternoon I left Bowness by a slightly different route (and found an even muddier field than any I walked though in the morning) but this linked up with the Dales Way again and so back the the campsite. Ironically the sun started to shine through after I had left Bowness and Windermere behind and therefore my photographic opportunities were limited - from a high point as I approached the lake I could only just see Windermere through the mist and the mountains beyond were completely invisible. But some reasonable view were available on the journey back and only then did I realise how high some of the roads and fields were on this route. I arrived back mid afternoon quite happy in having achieved a walk in the dry. In the evening I did sample the bar on site and the food - quite good, but I was amazed how few people were using the facility - maybe it gets busier later.

Friday 15 October

The best day yet for weather - only slightly misty in the morning but then becoming a bright clear sunny day until late afternoon when some light rain showers arrived. It would have been far better, from a photographic point of view, if I had undertaken the long walk to Bowness today rather than yesterday. My plan, however, was to take in slightly more easily today with two small walks. The one in the morning just a stroll around the local lanes and woods. In the afternoon a slightly longer circular walk with the campsite at its centre. Initially along the lane I started my walk on yesterday, but then south through some woods (Ashes Coppice) across more rough rocky pasture, over Knott Hill (which was is not really much of a hill compared to many in the area - maybe that's how it got its name!), then West along more lanes, North across Rather Heath (which was more a wood rather than a heath - sorry!) finally joining up with the lane which led West back to the campsite. The walk was accomplished in just under two hours and not another person was seen during the whole walk. So nothing too strenuous and no well known places visited, but two pleasant walks in the October sunshine. Talking of planning (or lack of it), quite a bit of the time I spent on the campsite today was taken up phoning to try to book up my next stay at a campsite - I had hoped to be moving on to Keswick on Sunday. But October seems to be a very popular month for camping in the Lake District and I was unable to find any space at all - most sites telling me that they were fully booked to the end of the month when they close. So my Lake District travels will come to a premature end on Sunday, and as I have been unable to find a campsite with any space for a stop on-route it looks like a long journey home.

Saturday 16 October

Although the weather forecast for the day was not good, it started fine and sunny, although quite cool, and did not start to cloud up until approaching mid-day with rain only arriving late in the afternoon. Fortunately I decided to go walking in the morning. A longer walk than yesterday but over quite moderate terrain. It started on lanes leading East towards Kendal, crossing the dual carriageway A591 and then descending to the village of Burnside. Here I joined the Dales Way again heading North-West, across fields, along the banks of the River Kent until I reached the village of Staveley. After a snack, eaten by the river while watching the clouds start to build up, I headed South, picking up the lane which runs back to the campsite. Another pleasant walk without much excitement, apart that is from dodging the high speed traffic on the A591. Although there are plenty of walks that you can take from this campsite, only the one on Thursday to Windermere gives any of the real flavour of the Lake District. So while the site is a very good one in respect of layout and facilities, its location makes it really only suitable for exploring the area by motor vehicle - not the way I prefer to do things. So next time I will have to book early and make use of some of the campsites located more to the heart of the Lake District.

Sunday 17 October

The long journey home. It started at about 8am from the campsite near Kendal heading South-East, skirting the southern boarders of the Yorkshire Dales on the A65, then via Bradford and the M62 to join the A1 heading South. Back on the familiar roads of the A1, A14 and M11 home to East London, arriving at about 2.30pm. With a couple of stops for refreshment and no major hold-ups it proved to be a less tiring 270 miles than I thought it would be, the new 'toy' (Tom Tom GO GPS Navigation Unit) certainly taking the stress out of finding my way through what was, for me, the uncharted territory of urban Yorkshire.

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