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Wader repair Examples

 
 Probably the leakiest waders we have received to date, this is the inside of them and there are literally hundreds of pin holes repaired by the owner. However they were still leaking from a number of areas. We repaired over 30 additional pin holes and a number of seam leaks and now they are completely watertight. They look perfect on the outside, but the inside looks like it took both barrels from a 12 bore!
 
 A mouse attack on a pair of neoprene waders, just below the chest pocket. The owner thought the waders would be written off, as along with this damage we also found a small hole in the crotch and on the inside on the back.
After assessing the damage we decided that it should be an easy enough repair
 
 The first job is to cut away the damage, and we decided to follow the pocket line. Repairs like this will always be visible, but if we can do them sympathetically we will. The strength of the repair is however the most important factor, as in cold conditions a major failure could be dangerous. We always test every repair, so that we are confident that the angler will be properly protected.
 
 
 A small fillet of similar coloured material bonded into place. The photo shows the repair much more than it shows in real life, the slight fading of the waders making it visible in the picture but the two materials will in time blend nicely.
In the inside of the wader the whole patch is seam sealed, and this is potentially the strongest part of the waders now!
 
To repair this, and to do all the other mouse damage to these waders, 4 places in total cost the angler £15, so the repair is strong, waterproof and at a price that clearly makes repairing them worth while. These ones had previously been seam sealed by us so i would expect them to last a good few more seasons.
 
 No Zip fitted
 
 Zip Fitted, not an easy job but it can be done. In this case the waders had a hand warmer pocket, that went right through the wader. This had to be split and sealed, the pockets on it then had to be sealed as they were not open in the middle. the zip was fitted, taped and then seam sealed.
 
 Waders just out of the testing process, still showing dozens of tiny pin holes showing as bubble streams. These waders were totally porous, as the leaks were similar over their whole surface. These were older waders so we dont knwo if this is repeated thorn attack or simply the material breaking down. They are now back in action and being used however!!!
 
We have now perfected a technique to repair porous waders, it does take more time but is a sucessfull repair, It costs just £50 plus postage to do this, as it uses considerably more sealant and testing!
 
The same area of waders, now sealed and airtight, although the area is discoloured due to the ink from the marker pen, it can clearly be seen that the area is now totally airtight. As this repair would be on the inside of the wader it is invisible in use.
 
We regularly get waders that have been leaking over a preiod of time going this way, and they are not an unusual repair for us.
 
It takes longer, and they will not breath as effectivly once done, but they should last well enough once done.
 
A wader which is leaking form the seams, once properly sealed should last years, and to date we have never had a seam we have repaired leak.
 
Waders that are porous may not last as well, but you should still get a season or two out of them once done, so not too bad.
 
 I wonder why this one leaked?
 
 The studs penetrated the sole and they leaked badly. We have developed a technique to sort this, and it seales the inside of the sader and forces sealant right through the sole. When fitting studs remember the heels of many waders are hollow and never put studs in the middle of the sole, when the felt compresses it will cause a leak.
 
 A really good example of a leaking seam. Notice the crease running from the middle of the seam to the edge. Obviously this will leak. The water will enter the sttitching and run along the step where the two pieces of material meet. As water does not compress it will enter the seem slowly over time, but when you, as an example bend your knee it can force the tape off, as the water will not compress it will take the easiest route. You can see that the tape is lifting along the seam as well, creating a larger "reservoir" of leakage. The water is also forcing the tape away on the other side of the seam, as the leak develops.
 
If you were to patch this, or to seal the crease in the seam it would work for a short time, then the reservoir would simply create a new leak. This is why our multi coat approach, with a very thin sealant initially to fill this reservoir, followed by thicker coats works so well.
 
 An interesting seam picture. These seams are generally white, and opaque. However after we have treated them with a very thin solution of our sealant they become clear, and you can see that the seam is folded over. The folds in this seam allows a larger reservior for water to collect in, and this can and does cause problems, mainly seam leaks.
 
This seam is now airtight, the reservior is now totally filled with sealant and it cannot ever leak now. It is incredibly strong and flexible, and from the outside appears exactly the same. On the inside, the sealant just looks like a stain, or wet waders.
 
 Ouch, a new and unused pair of waders with mouse damage. The little blighters appear to favour new waders!
 
 
This is not for patching, we simply removed the foot and replaced it. This is faster and neater but we also have to test teh whole wader, as a nibble or two are not easy to see, but they will leak badly. Thankfully this one only suffered damage to the feet and is back as good and new!
 
 Gravel guards often rip in time, particularly neoprene ones. The metal work on the boots cause this. 2 mm neoprene is difficult to work with, and give any reasonable strength, but we have developed a technique to repair these now, and once done should be stronger than it was when it left the factory!
 
 The results are neat, strong and almost invisible, depending on how much damage you have done before sending them to us!
 
 A wee fag burn on the outside of the waders, just below the zip. This is now airtight!
 
 And the same burn on the inside, all sealed up and fresh out from testing.
 
        
 Hook holes, marked up on the inside of the wader. Notice the rust marks. These dont show on the outside of the wader in most cases and not all brands show rust like these ones    
 

 This must have been a sore one! barbed wire ripped a 12 inch L shapped hole in these Greys waders. It was a reasonably neat rip, but with a couple of smaller and jagged ripps at the corner. No blood which was nice

 
 A nice neat airtight repair. All the repair work is done on the inside, so it is as neat as possible. The outside has not been washed in the pucture, but once this is done the rip will only be noticed upon close examination. the waders were fully seamsealed and the repair is guaranteed for a year, but as it is now the strongest part of the wader it will be airtight for years!
 
 It is often a surprise what you find under tape! This seam was not glued properly, adn all that was holding it together was the tape. It was a really bad leak so we opened up the tape and found this
 
 Sorted!
 
 Allergic to neoprene? I can either replace teh socks with latex ones or simply coat the whole inside of the sock with our sealant. Both work well!
 
 A nice pair of waders, which had the zip split. As we were working on them anyway, the angler asked if we could make them a little larger round the waist and chest - no problem. We just cut a zip and some material out of a written off wader, and then popped it into the anglers wader. We wanted an extra 8 inches in the chest, and 2 inches in the waist.
I thought the result looked quite good!
 
 A particularly aggressive mouse, feet
totally wrecked, and damage to the
wader as well!
 
 
 Wader leg too long, this wader is half
done, with 2 inches removed from the
left leg, right still to do
 
 
A nice new wader that did not fit, 4 inches to long and no zip - easy!
 
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