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KOCHI is steeped in history and weaves magic with tales of colonizers and adventures-TOUR TALK Kerala, Ooty,Lonavala,Kodaikkanal, Sikkim, Nainital, Langkawi,CHHATTISGARH-a Destination With a Difference-ASSAM,MEGHALAYA,NAGALAND,ARUNACHAL PRADESH,MIZORAM, SIKKIM,DARJEELING,DOOARS VALLEY,SUNDERBANS-   
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Echoes from the past

 WAYFARER:Kochi is steeped in history and weaves magic with tales of colonizers and adventures, 

It is 2008, but in the fading light, as the sun melts into the Arabian Sea, it could just as easily are 1000 B.C. The dark hulks silhouetted against the darkening sky could, with a little imagination, be mer—chant ships from the courts of King Solomon and Nebuchandnezzar.

           I stand facing the estuary where Vasco ad Gammas armada sailed in. They came looking for pepper and souls to be won for the Bride of Christ — the Roman Church. Before him had been others — from Syria, Egypt, Phoenicia, Greece, Arabia and China. Now, in the gathering dusk, the still—glowing embers of the dying sun scattered on the sea, their ghosts are everywhere.

The next day, the shadowy ghosts have vaporized in the bright Kochi sunshine as I step out of my hotel, the Brunton Boatyard — a 100-year-old shipyard reinvented as a boutique hotel, at the mouth of Kochi harbour. It stands at the site of what was once the prosperous Geo Brunton and Son ship—yard.

           With its sweeping balustrades, high rafters, lime-washed walls, pillared portico and terracotta-stained polished floors, the hotel has the resonance of centuries.

           Which is amazing because its all-new. Design by a Swiss architect and longtime resident of Kochi, Karl Damschen, and the Brunton faithfully recreates the style of early Dutch architecture, and blends seamlessly with other Dutch homes still seen in the area.

           A long verandah with massive Malaysian teak beams are hung with hand-pulled cloth punkahs, sourced from old government offices. In the shady courtyard stands a specimen of the iconic rain-tree, whose branches dip with his or her own weight during the monsoons to touch the ground.

           The Brunton rooms overlook the delta where ships and fishing-boats pass. Every hour, your window opens onto a different landscape and a differently painted sky and sea.

           Adjacent to the boatyard are Kochis fabled Chinese fishing nets, legacy of seafarers from Cathay. These giant contraptions line the waterfront like huge extra-galactic relics from pre-history and amazingly, they are still used for fishing.

           Enormous cantilevered structures made of heavy teakwood frames, are raised and lowered with pulleys and a counterweight of rocks strung together. A team of five fishermen, chocolate—skinned and muscled in their short mundus, strain at the ropes, lowering the net into the sea. I settle down on the coconut trunk platform to watch. Jamaal comes over to chat, offering me a swig of his rum. He is a Moplah, he tells me, descendant of the Arab merchants who fell in love and married the coffee—eyed, kinky-tressed Malabari beauties. Hes also a graduate in anthropology!

The one thing you learn very quickly in Communist Kerala is to share your table with your driver, guide, and cook etc. For a society with hundreds of castes and sub-castes, it is remarkably egalitarian. Then there is that famous 90% literacy rate which every Malaya lee feels the need to tell you about.

           Jamaal presents me with a creamy, white frangipani blossom. His grand-aunt, he says, told him that its tree is the abode of the yaks his — the beautiful, voluptuous demonesses of Kerala, whose blood red lips and shining eyes spelt death.

I try my hand at the nets, putting all my weight on the rope, and we pull in a splendid catch — silvery scales quivering and leaping in the sun. Here its possible to catch your own lunch and have it grilled, fried or roasted at a roadside clay fire.

           I select a plump calamari, and twenty minutes later it is served up, golden brown and crunchy at the edges. Grilled on hot coals, fragrant with smoke, seasoned with Keralas celebrated spices, and washed down with tender coconut water (TC in local-speak) — it is the finest dining in all Malabar.

That evening I watch a Kathakali performance on a makeshift stage lit by a many-tongued, brass nilavillaku oil-lamp, strung with electric bulbs. A conch is blown softly and then triumphantly. The drumming of the chendas vibrates the muggy night air.

           The suddenly a pair of taloned hands rips the curtain as under and a demon leaps out at us screaming in fury. It rolls its flaming eyes, reddened with loathing and flower-seed oil. Around and around the eyeballs dart — crossing them incredibly in a figure of eight!

Ready reckoner

ORIENTATION: Kochi is made up of several parts. It includes Fort Kochi and Mattancherry on the southern promontory. This area contains almost all the historic sights.

WILLINGDON: Island is an artificial island and the main port area. Across the causeway is the mainland township of Ernakulam. Most of the hotels are located here. Kochi International Airport at Nedumbassery is 20km, from here. The railhead is in Ernakulam town. Just opposite Ernakulam jetty is Bolgatty Island, and beyond it Vypeen Island. All these parts that make up the city of Kochi are connected by ferry or by causeways.

The huge customer billows out, scarves streaming as he stomps and raves. Its very different from watching Kathakali in a city auditorium where the dancers seem somehow diminished. Here in Kochi, the drama is immediate and distributing, the dancers are truly possessed by gods and demons. The vitunatakam dance drama enacts stories from medieval Europe, and Emperor Charlemagne is a popular hero!

Fort Kochi has been declared a Heritage Site and the best way to see it is a leisurely walk shaded by the wide-rimmed conical Chinese straw hats. The experience is one of walking through an enormous museum; Dutch and Portuguese mansions and bungalows with their distinctive facades, carving and tile-work, once the offices and homes of prosperous coffee merchants and tea-brokers, tell the story of colonizers, merchants and adventures who left their homelands to follow dreams of wealth and power.

           As we walk further back in time to the Jewish settlement at Mattancherry, narrow cobbled lanes are lined with trading houses still dealing in spices, coir, rubber and tea. Their names read Carritt Moran, Pierce Leslie, Forbes and Figgis. Some in Kochi still bear Dutch surnames.

           Within a day Ive crossed and re-crossed several time references and several cultures. Kochi is like a spreadsheet, where you can trace the two axes of history and geography that intersect every element of Kerala culture.  

                                         

                           

Quest for a rainbow

TOUR TALK

Chase the monsoon and the best off-season discounts as the rains come pelting down,

          Much as you enjoy the romance of the rains, have you ever though of taking a holiday even as it comes pelting down? Well, if you want to escape the mud and slush of the city (and without spending too much) heres your chance. Monsoon tourism—typically between now and September-has kicked off and its time to shift your options.

          Take a holiday now and you can be sure that youll be checking into hotels that are un—affordable at peak tourist season. Hotels rates are slashed by some 40% (or are at least negotiable) and sometimes airlines pitch in with some throwaway fares. Karan Anand, head, business develop-ment, Cox & Kings India, says: “Monsoon packages are very popular among single people and couples because not only do they come cheap but also assure a less crowded destination”.

          Sunil Gupta, COO Kuoni Holidays and SOTC, feels that going on a holiday is no longer restricted to any particular season. “In the monsoons travelers are now looking for beach and islands holidays with loads of water sports thrown in”.

          Topping the list of monsoon destinations is Goa with its countless beaches, and Kerala with its backwaters. Ootys hills that are washed by heavy rains and Nainital with its dense pine forests are also hot destinations this season. Care to go further? How about Maldives or Langkawi for some ultra-cheap duty free shopping? Even phuket with its soft white beaches may take your fancy.

          So just get set with wash-and-wear clothes, swimsuits, flip-flops, board games, book to read, umbrellas and raincoats to soak up the season. Chasing the monsoons is sure to be fun and rest assured, the rains wont play spoilsport.

KERALA

The states tourism board has been working over the last couple of year on its monsoon campaign to ensure that the state draws tourists even in the traditional off-season. And their efforts have been rewarded, as monsoon packages are hot sellers. A monsoon package in Kerala usually builds in multiple cities and towns that are rain lashed, so youll need to spare at least a week. Your options go from staying at a backwater resort or houseboats that float on the backwaters.

          When in Kerala, can Ayurvedic treatments be too far away from where you are? Not really, and you can actually take off for a purely Ayurvedic vacation thats sure to energies your body, soul and mind. Not too many people have woken up to the fact that Ayurvedic therapies work best in this season. Consider SOTCs Ayurvedic Tour of the South for 10 nights and 11 days, which cost Rs.27,500 per person. It will throw in herbal massages, steam baths and yoga.

          Cox & Kings also has a complete Kerala package on offer for Rs.18,968 per person for a 5 night and 6 day stay that includes return airfare, meals, 3 star accommodation, sightseeing as per itinerary (in Cochin, Munnar, Thekkady and Kumarakom) and more.

          In Kerala the other places worth stopping at are Munnar, the British summer resort, and Kumarakom where you can stay at its lakeside cottages and watch the monsoon showers lash against VembanadLake. You could also book yourself at the 5 stars Trident hotel in Cochin for a reasonable Rs.9,600 (which includes accommodation for two persons for two nights and breakfast). An additional room for up to two children (below 12 years) can be booked free.

OOTY

A word of warning—yes, Ooty will be wet and it will be cold, so carry the woollies. This little town set on the stepped slopes of the Nilgiri Hills offers a mix of tea garden tourism and some exciting forest walks besides the touristy horse riding or boating at OotyLake.

          There are a good number of offers to sift through. Monsoon packages from STIC range between an affordable Rs.6,666 (for a 3 stars hotel) and Rs.18,000 (for a 5 stars stay) per couple for 3 nights and 4 days. This includes sightseeing and transfers but not the airfare. Till September 30 the Tajs Savoy Hotel, Ooty, is offering a 2 night package for a couple beginning at Rs.14,000 while Cox & Kings 2 nights and 3 days package at Hotel Sullivan Court/Holiday Inn is tagged at Rs.5,150 per person on twin sharing basis.

          In Ooty go shopping for cotton embroidered Toda shawls, Nilgiri specialities like eucalyptus oil, spices, tea and bakery-made chocolates.

LONAVALA

But if youd rather explore the beauty of the rain-drenched Western Ghats, head for Lonavala on the Mumbai-Pune highway. While torrential rains often bring Mumbai to a grinding stop, Lonavala is not afflicted by the hassles of a rain-deluged metropolis.

          Once you have made in to Mumbai just book yourself a getaway. Thomas Cooks 2 nights and 3 days package (you travel from Mumbai by car) for Rs.8,349 onwards on a per person basis includes stay at a 3 stars hotel, breakfast and dinner.

          And if you thought that there is not much that you can do in this picnickers paradise, think again. Check out Manashakti, a health resort and the Kaivalyadhama Yoga Institution. And yes, dont come back from Lonavala without its famed customary chikkis (nut encrusted bars), walnuts, and chocolate fudge and coconut barfi.

KODAIKANAL

If you are a tea connoisseur and like to visit some tea gardens head straight for Kodaikanal. Youll probably step out for brisk walks in the hills (so do remember to pack sturdy walking shoes and insect repellant), and when you are done with tea gardens you may as well go paddleboating at Kodaikanals starfish-shaped lake. Packages — like those from STIC Travels — for 3 nights and 4 days for a couple start at Rs.6,666 for a 3 stars hotel and touch Rs.17,500 for a 5 stars accom—modation. Packages usually include breakfast and dinner but exclude air and train fares.

SIKKIM

Closer home Sikkim beckons as the southwest monsoon hits it between May and early October. At this time all its attractions are swathed in mist, clouds and rain offering even prettier vision of its mountain monasteries and exotic flora and fauna. A 2 nights and 3 days package from STIC — that includes breakfast and transfers, but not air or train fares — will set you back by Rs.5,800 per couple in a 3 stars hotel while it will cost Rs.16,000 per couple in a 5 stars hotel.

          If you check in at one of Gangtoks numerous hotels you could visit the famous Rumtek Monastery, Chhango Lake (at 12,400ft) as well as the Kupup region, thats home to the worlds second highest golf course.

NAINITAL

This hill resort receives heavy monsoon showers between July-September — and becomes even more romantic. For an elaborate trip, you could try Thomas Cooks Uttaranchal package of 6 nights and 7 days at Rs.17,750 per person on twin sharing basis. The package includes 3 nights accom—modation at Chevron Fairhaven Hotel in Nainital, a night at Chevron Rosemount in Ranikhet and 2 nights at Fort Resort in Mussoorie.

          It also includes breakfast, transfers and sightseeing in a Qualis. STIC meanwhile has a 3 nights and 4 days deal between Rs.5,000 (in a 3 stars hotel) and Rs.20,000 per couple (in 5 stars accommodation). All breakfasts and transfers are included but not the airfares or train fares.

LANGKAWI

This tropical island getaway makes it easily to monsoon wislists. Brief showers in Langkawi are a given throughout the year but the rains in their true form come only in August and September. In these months youll get to enjoy the island at its quietest best, but its beaches, mountains, mangrove forests, duty-free shopping and historical sites remain just as exciting. You could stay in a 5 stars resort on DataiBay, a secluded cove that also offers a golf course in the heart of the jungle.

          Packages from Kuoni Holidays for 2 nights and 3 days come at a cool Rs.7,266 per person on twin sharing basis. This throws in accommodation at a 5 stars hotel, breakfast, airport transfers and a half-day Langkawi island tour. From STIC, a 3 nights and 4 days package to Langkawi for a couple works out to about Rs.10,279 in a 3 stars hotel while a 5 stars stay will cost Rs.39,060. This includes breakfast and transfers (but not airfare).                      

              

MY COUNTRY

 

NEPAL-POKHRA

Of the the 14 mountain peaks higher than 8,000 metres in the world,10 are in Nepal.Pokhra,the city of lakes,is agreat place to take off on assisted flights aboard micro-light planes for an aerial tour of the Himalayas.As the plane flies less than 2km from the snowy mountain peaks,the view is absolutely stunning.U will be served the breathtaking view of Mt.Everest itself,if u have the stomach for greater thrill,u can go peak watching on a hang-glider with an expert flier.

SIKKIM-PELLING

With scores of wonderful hill towns that are great retreats to get away from the maddening crowds.Pelling,about 125 km from the state capital,Gangtok,is one of the best.This little town,perched at a height of nearly 7,000 ft,has a clean view of the world's third highest mountain,the 28,169-ft high Kanchenjunga.The town is also home to the three-centuries-old Pemayangtse monastery.Ashort but steep hike away is another old monastery,Sangachoeling.Go explore the many hiking trails around town.

ORISSA-PURI

One of the places to combine relaxation and religion is Puri in Orissa on the eastern coast of India.The beach town is home to the imposing 12th-century Jagannath temple,which is the source of the word 'juggernaut'.The temple's most striking feature is a 16-faceted monolithic pillar towering over the main entrance lika a sentinel with two massive lions carved out ot the stone beside it,guarding the way to the LORD.

 

CHHATTISGARH

 

Its cultural heritage is as the Stone Age.In ancient times,Chhattisgarh was known as Dakshin Kausal.With 44% of forest cover,the state has one of the richest bio-diverse areas with virgin destinations that offer a unique and alternative experience compared to traditional destinations.For those tired of crowds at major destinations,Bastar,with its unique cultural and ecological identity,comes as a breath of fresh air.Known the world over for its unique and distinctive tribal heritage,Bastar Dassera is the traditional celebration of the gaiety of the tribals inhabiting that area.The state has India's biggest water falls-Chitrakote Falls in Bastar;Asia's only university for music and arts-Khairagarh Sangeet Vishwavidhyala and home to Bastar's Hill Maynah which can imitate the human voice.

 

Tourist Circuit: Kawardha-Raipur-Rajim-Barnawapara-Sirpur-Gangrel-Kondagaon-Bastar-Nagamar.Rajmergarh (Amarkantak) and Mainpat as hill stations and Sirpur as a major Buddhist centre.

Pilgrim Tourism connected to the three shakti-peeths-Danteshwari Mai in Dntewada,Ma Bambleswari in Dongargarh and Mahamaya temple in Ratanpur with best infrastructure facilities.

For nature and wildlife lovers,the three national parks,including the Kanger Valley National Park and 11 wildlife sanctuaries are a feast not to be missed.Mainpat 9Surguja),Keshkal Valley (Kanker),Chaiturgarh (Bilaspur),Bagicha (Jashpur),Kutumbsar caves,kailash caves,Tirathgarh falls,Chitrakote falls(Bastar) are all exhilarating destinations for nature and wildlife tourism.Wildlife areas,camping grounds and trekking facilities also available .The unique tribal culture along with intricately carved shrines,caves,majestic forts,palaces and above all the spendid scenic beauty leaves an indelible mark on the memories of a traveller to this "land of plenty".

 

THE MOST PROMINENT BUDDHIST SITES OF INDIA

More than two thousand years ago,a king gave up everything in search of enlightenment.From Prince Siddartha to Gautama Buddha.From human to divine.And on the occassion of the 2550th Mahaparinirvana of Lord Buddha,India invite the whole world to visit his path to salvation.One where peace,tranquility and true spirituality exist.Come visit the places,the monasteries and the temples throughout India that celebrate Buddha,his life and his teachings.

On vacation,take home peace and harmony.For more details,visit

www.incredibleindia.org

Tourists Attractions In NORTH-EAST INDIA

 

In the north-east tourists spots are no less fascinating.In Assam,Kamakhya temple,Umananda (Peacock Island),Navagraha temple,Basisthat Ashram,Saraighat bridge,Kaziranga national park (famous for one horned rhino),Manas tiger project,Pobi-tora and Orang wild life sanctuary,Tezpur Bhairavi temple and Jatia hills are eminent tourists attractions.

Blessed with a salubrious climate and landscapes of natural beauty

,Manipur has its Shree Govinda temple,war cemeteries,Saheed Minar,Loktak lake,INA memorial (Moirang),Siroy hills,Dzuko valley,and Khongjom war memorial complex to offer the tourists an enjoyable break from routine life.

In

Mizoram tourists get a feel of religious and cultural aura in the capital city of Aizawl itself.Vantawang falls and the famous Champhai resort on the Myanmar border are other attractions.

Meghalaya

is dotted with a number of tourists spots.They include Ward's lake,Lady Hydari Park,Mini zoo,Elephant falls and Shillong peak.

Nagaland

is famous for its seasonal festivals.The Hornbill festival held in the first week of December is an annual event where all tribes of Nagaland come together to celebrate,exhibit and sell their traditional wares,foodstuffs and crafts.It is a magnificent show.

Sikkim

is famous for its lakes and monasteries.Some important tourists centres are : Gangtok,Bakhim,Yumthang,Dubdi,Rumtek monastery , and monasteries at Pemayangtse and Tsomgo.

Arunachal Pradesh's

tourist spots include Tawang,Dirang,Bomdila Tipi,Itanagar Malinithan,Likabali and Pasighat.

In the east Himalayas,

Darjeeling,the queen of the hills and Dooars where nature has kept her doors wide open have of late become major attractions to tourists worldwide.The east Himalayan region of Darjeeling and nearby hills are abound in a variety of flora and fauna-from the alpine to the tropical.The dense natural forest and the sanctuaries of the Dooars is home to a variety of wild animals and birds.Darjeeling and nearby hills offer immense opportunities for trekking,rock-climbing,mountain-biking,hand-gliding and the river Teesta flowing the hill attracta the young and the brave for white-water rafting and canoeing.Some call it a 'paradise' for shopping and a kaleidoscope of Indian,Chinese and Tibetan cultures,and no tourists would miss the sunrise over Mt. Everest and the Kanchendzonga.The other major attractions of Darjeeling is Llyod Botanical Gardens.

Dooars valley

,which is the gateway to the hills stations of North Bengal,Sikkim,Bhutan,Assam and the far East,attracts thousands of nature lovers who enjoy the beauty of unending stretches of virgin forests interwoven with innumerable tea gardens and crisscrossed by the Teesta,Jaldhaka,Torsha and Sankosh rivers and tributaries rolling down the hills.Dooars valley is specially noted for its wildlife sanctuaries,most notable of which are the National Park of Gorumara and the Mahananda sanctuary.On the plains West Bengal has the Sundarbans which is famous for eco-tourism.It is the home of Royal Bengal Tiger.It is declared as a Biosphere Reserve as well as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997,the Sundarbans provide a rare opportunity to tourists to be with nature.

West Bengal's sister state Orissa is famous for its temples,lakes and lots of tourists' treasures.Asia's largest brackish water lake,Chilka,is a natural attraction for tourists from far and near.Orissa is dotted with encient monuments ranging from the ruins of Sisupalgarh to the magnificent Lingaraj and Jagannath temples.The Sun temple at Konark is feast for the eyes.The various archaeological finds at Ratnagiri,Lalitgiri,Udaigiri and other locations prove that Orissa has also been influenced by Buddhist thought.Jainism too has left its mark on Orissa at the rock cut caves in Khandagiri and Udaygiri.Tourists have enough food for thoughts as they pour into this state.

Many tourists feel that their journey remains incomplete without a visit to Jharkhand,the newly-formed state carved out of Bihar,because it is full of nature's bounty with waterfalls,streams and forests.The Hundru falls which is about 28km from the state capital,Ranchi,is a major attraction.Here the Swarnarekha river falls from a height of 320 feet presenting a wonderful sight.Other attractions in the state include Ichagarh Bird Sanctuary,Dalma Wild Life Sanctuary,Betla National Park,and famous temples such as Jharkhand Dham,Lagnta Baba Temple and Bindhvashini temple.

Bihar that finds mention in the Vedas,Puranas and epics,was the main scene of activities of the Buddha and the 24 Jain Thirthakaras.It is also one of the important places in the annals of Indian history that has seen the rise and fall of major empires.Livening its past,there are many tourist destinations,especially pilgrim centres like Patna,Bodhgaya,Rajgir,Vaishali and ruins of the world famous ancient University of Nalanda.Buddhist centres like Bodhgaya,Gaya and Vaishali draw tourists throughout the year.

KHAJURAHO

The Khajuraho Temple complex-the sprawling

 

is a fantastic piece of sculpture.There are many temples and each one is different from the other.Khajuraho does have the larger-than-life aspect of the Ellora Caves.Here,the figures on the temple walls are smaller.The carvings tell stories of battles,the social life of kings and their soldiers.The erotic and the spiritual have been condensed into one in Khajuraho.The Koreans and the Japanese are the tourist majority in Khajuraho because of its temples and historical places.On your way u can stop by Jhansi, must see for Lakshmibai Fort.U can make a quick trip to the Bandhavgarh Wildlife Sanctuary on your way back.

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