So you want to carry a surfboard on your Ural?


Here's a few pics and some info to try and show the mods to Dauntless luggage racks that will allow them to fit on the Gear-up with a top mounted spotlight, and to hold Yakima rack attachments/surf rack.

Items:
  1. Rear Kodiak Rack modified such that the 1st rung (behind the sidecar seat) is Yakima cross-bar diameter.
  2. Front Kodiak Rack modified such that at least the 1st rung from the sidecar seat is Yakima diameter.
    1. Dauntless Motors Corporation
      21418 SE 436th Street
      Enumclaw WA
      98022
      866-638-1793
      www.dauntlessmotors.com
    • Dauntless won't do much more than that for you, and it took me months to get that out of them. They apparently don't accommodate custom jobs for small orders very easily. Also, their racks come with the feet just askew enough to make bolting them in an absolute pain. Toss the bolts they give you and get the same size but in stainless hex head so you can crank them in without stripping a screw head when you're 3/4 of the way in and having to back it out with vice grips. Not fun. Also use at least three thick washers under the head of each bolt.
  3. Yakima brackets and bar stock from a Yakima truck rack. The center "stems" in the pics are 5 1/4" long, and were made by cutting down the truck rack stays and welding the bracket mounts to them.
    • There's a million other ways to make the elevated part of the front rack, but the important thing is that you get the top of a Yakima round bar elevated at least 8 & 1/4" off the hood of the sidecar as you can see in the pics. The nice thing about the one shown is that it can be swung to any angle for different uses. It's not stuck at one spot. It's also removable.
Once you get the Dauntless racks from the "factory", you will need to
  1. Cut out the port side 2/3 of the 3rd rung from the back on the front rack.
  2. Weld this piece back in perpendicular to the remaining 1/3 of the rung as shown.
    • this gives structural support while making an area for the spotlight to fit in.
  3. Move the light mount hole:
    • Remove the light & use a hole cutter drill attachment to cut out a new hole for it centered in the rack's new gap (Sorry I don't recall the exact diameter I used. I'm writing this a couple years after the fact).
    • Mark the new bolt holes with the light base & drill them
    • Take the steel from the cut out and weld it into the old hole.
      • Grind, sand smooth, prime & paint. I was painting the whole bike anyway, so didn't much mind this part.
      • On mine, I was bed-lining the inside of the side-car and the bottom as well, and just made an accent area under the light with bed-liner. Did this for multiple reasons, but I wound up liking the way it looks.
        • The best liner I found was a new product (new at the time) called Monstaliner.  The unique thing about this stuff is that it's the only do-it-yourself roll-on that is truly UV resistant to the point that Linex and Rino-liner are.
          • Eric Rosenthal
            President & Technical Director
            631.842.7700 - Ext 100
            Cell: 516.313.7865
            www.magnetpaints.com
            MONSTALINERT UV Perm, DIY Roll On Bed Liner
            www.monstaliner.com
        • If you're curios how to get the satin green on the rest of the bike, the color is Hot Rod Flatz brand Rock Moss Green flat, used in a 50/50 mix with clear. Both are one-stage urethane, so the mix is easy.
  4. Much easier to install the rack before the light.
  5. Throw a couple surf-rack cushions on it, strap a board down & go surfing :)
Pics: