GE Washer repair



                        Nice video that features tranny removal


The newer washers have some straps to keep the washer from shaking:

                                     WH1X2727

NEW STYLE
 New style GE washer. The whole tub motor and transmissions is suspended in midair by 4 rods that act like shocks. To keep the tub from swaying it has 4 bungy straps to keep down lateral motion. The transmission is a lawn mower quill and it uses spring loaded ball bearings to spin in reverse. It has an electric pump and the frame is made from stamped metal. The timer housing is plastic and mounts into the frame using plastic legs to hold it into place. So if ya get mad and punch the timer the thing breaks. Hay I am just being honest about this washer but it needs to be fixed so here ya go.
To access the motor and pump to must remove the front panel. Then you will be able to take the screws loose to lift up the top. From there you can check the lid switch, bungys, tub rods, and water pump. Inspect the motor and clutch and get yer shotgun ready. LOL!
I have here a new style GE washer Tech training manual that yall might be interested in:

          GENERAL ELECTRIC TOP LOADER MANUAL (NEW STYLE)

                                 Front Loader Repair Manual
       
                      GE profile with stator base type motor (F&P) style

                              GE Hydrowave with inverter/motor
                           
                                  How to level the washer properly
             


This video is all about the front loaders with some more GE vids tossed in.

OLD STYLE
The older style GE top loading washer  with the belt  driven pump is really worth keeping and repairing. These time tested wonders are the very best design out there. Well worth saving and restoring. Built to give the cust years and years of worry free service. Replacing a belt on these is very easy. You simple remove the pump coupling and slip the belt over the motor pulley, no need to even loosen the motor. Get the belt on the small pulley first and turn the main pulley till the belt pops right on it. The hardest part about it is putting that leather pump drive back on the pump. The main tub seal will sometimes get a leak and it is fairly easy to replace. The agitator has to come off first then 3 nuts hold the inner tub and it comes out. Then you can see the rubber boot. Guess what? You remove that and remove 6 screws more and the transmission comes right out. The main seal on these trannys will get an oil leak causing the tranny to lock up; they are very easy to refurbish. Flip the tranny and lock it into a vice. Remove the pulley and the base plate. Knock out the seal from the base plate and tap another one (put some fresh oil on the new seal) into place using a wood block and or a rubber mallet. Add a couple quarts of 10W-40 motor oil and put it all back together. Clock tighten the base plate to insure even seal and if you strip one of those bolts it will leak, so be careful. The toggles and gears will all magically free themselves up with the added oil!
99% of the time that is all the factory does and they charge 150 bucks for a rebuilt one. I just told you how to do it . If the motor clutch is worn out you can rebuild it by replacing the bearing and shoes. Or you could buy a single speed clutch(cheaper) and it will work just as well or better even. I would even replace the motor and clutch combo on these. This washer is so sweet. If you have one do not toss it.

Here's how to check the inverter on the motor of the newest:

To remove the front panel-

1. Locate the two (hidden) spring clips between the top cover and front panel– look in that seam with a flashlight, you’ll seem ‘em. Or you can feel them with your putty knife.

2. Insert your putty knife and push forward on the clips to release ‘em.

3. The front panel will tilt out toward you and lift off the two hooks at the bottom.

There’s an LED on the board that will flash the error code. The location of the LED and its mystical flash code interpretation are shown below.



If the LED is flashing an error code, first thing to try is resetting the inverter board:

To Reset the Inverter Board: Push the timer knob in so the washer is idle. Unplug the machine for one minute. Plug back in and raise and lower the lid six times within 12 seconds.

After resetting the inverter board, put the machine in a spin cycle and see if it runs. If not, check for a green blinking light on the inverter board. It will flash failure codes according to the picture above. If no light you probably have a blown fuse built into the neutral side of the harness on the white/red wire.

   

If the LED is flashing an error code, first thing to try is resetting the inverter board:

To Reset the Inverter Board: Push the timer knob in so the washer is idle. Unplug the machine for one minute. Plug back in and raise and lower the lid six times within 12 seconds.

After resetting the inverter board, put the machine in a spin cycle and see if it runs. If not, check for a green blinking light on the inverter board. It will flash failure codes according to the picture above. If no light you probably have a blown fuse built into the neutral side of the harness on the white/red wire.

Ryan's Excellent Guide to Hydrowave washer repair

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