How to make a Multi-layer Pad

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This is for a three to five layered 9in pad with PUL liner.

>>>> Here is the pattern - Multi-layer pad - PDF 104 kb <<<<

I made this pattern nearly a year ago, and posted it on diy_pads. After a time the pattern file link went dead and I left it that way since I always felt uncomfortable posting something that exactly copied a manufactured product. (Yeah, the pantyline is the same, but it's more simple. I know that's weird logic...) I was going to leave it that way till I learned from a indirect source that the people who make this pad don't mind a bit. So, I re-worked the pattern, and wrote up these instructions to make it. 

If at any time in the future they change their mind and ask I remove this pattern, I will do so immediately.

 

Now for how this pad is made:
 

I know this pad looks complicated, but it's not. It's really a large panty liner with a few extra layers in the form of removable liners. One has wingy bits, the other does not. 

See, not complicated at all. ----->

The construction at first glance looks just like the panty liner, but there are several changes, some of them unnoticeable from the outside.  I'll cover the changes made from the original manufactured pad first: 

The edge is not surged. You can do that if you want, and skip most of the following instructions. But if you are like me, you may not like the surged finished edge on your pads. Plus, surging curves is super hard to do on the standard type surge. 

Rick rack is not used. I've tried it on my own pads, and on the manufactured pads. I seriously don't like it. It itches, it's not absorbent so your fluids just sit on it, it's made from synthetic fibers, and the elbow bits curls up and pokes you in the you know what. But yet again, if you don't have a problem with the rick-rack, by all means use it. 

I've left more room were the 'rick-rack' is so that your liners fit without bunching.

Also, the PUL layer extended all the way into the wings for more protection. 

As I said this pattern is made mostly the same as the panty liner, save a few changes. They are:  

To insert the PUL: while you are laying out your fabric for the bottom piece and getting it ready to sew, place your PUL on the wrong side of your flannel, but pin from the right side. (See second photo)

From first hand experience the few pin holes will not affect the waterproofing. To make things a little easier use four of those tiny brass colored safety pins. (Second and third photo to the right shows straight pins. I like to live dangerously :) The pointy pins can get in your way when you turn the piece inside out. Leave the pins in till you top stitch the piece. 

The rick-rack replacement: Use some of the scraps from cutting out your pad and cut down two pieces to 1 inch by 4 inch. Fold over right side in and sew, then turn inside out. You should have a skinny tube.

This can be a little difficult, so you can work with a wider piece, there is room. If by chance you happen to have a set of wire and tube devices called a Fasturn, that will make very short and easy work of turning the fabric tubing. However, don't run out and buy one just for this! They cost around 40$ US. (I happen to luck out and get a set at my local thrift store for a buck.) You can also fold over your raw edges and just top stitch to make a strip. If all else fails, used some bias tape or cotton ribbon. Just don't use anything slick, the point is for this to hold the liner(s) in place.

After you have your tubes/ strips/ ribbon/ whatever ready, use the middle paper patter piece as a guide and lay the strips in between the right sides of your flannel. 

The pad edge: You will have to skip the trick I showed you were you make a slit in the back of the liner so you can turn it inside out. This time you will have to do the more traditional - leave a gap in your sewing and turn right side out. When you trim your seam allowance, leave 1/4th inch around the turning area, and then when you top stitch, you will catch the fabric and you won't have to hand sew the opening closed.

The curvy parts can be hard to sew. Just like driving a car, take it slow and steady thought the curve. There is no rush, you are worth the effort!

For this pad I skipped sewing in the extra skinny pad liner piece that the manufactured pad has. You can make a extra one and sew it in if you like.

Terry can be added too, if you like. Just insert it the same way you insert the PUL.