Hus Ski 200-A, 400 & 600 Clutches


 Barrie G shared this write up on how to maintain these clutches. 

Spring is here and therefore time to do a little maintenance on your favorite HUS-SKI.  The clutches on the 200-A, 400 and 600 are all of the same basic design.  The Bell Housing (top center in photo) covers all the movable parts of the clutch and also has four cams pinned to its underside.  The Bell Housing shown is made of aluminum but the first clutch model had a metal Bell Housing.  Object in bottom right shows the inside of the Bell Housing.  The parts are as follows:

A - fixed sheave which fits on tapered end of crankshaft

B - movable sheave- slides on shaft of (A)

C - inside view of Bell Housing

1- bolt and washer- hold tab washer

2- tab washer- keeps engine nut from unscrewing

3- engine nut - holds clutch on tapered crankshaft end

4 - bearing - allow belt to stop turning

5 - spring - creates opposing pressure on sheaves

6 - spacer

7 - spacer

8 - spring retainer - positions spring on side of bearing


Step 1.             Fold down the tab washer and remove the clutch from the engine by turning the engine bolt in a counterclockwise direction.  If it will not come off then you can assume your taper and woodruff key are in good shape and will not need to be fixed.  A loose clutch usually means some damage has been done to the key and / or key way.

Step 2.             Remove the two bolts holding the tab washer.

Step 3.             The Bell Housing can now be unscrewed from the fixed sheave shaft.  THE BELL HOUSING IS UNSCREWED IN A CLOCKWISE DIRECTION. The clutch in the photo had to be clamped to the workbench with two blocks of wood, then a laver arm was made and bolted to the bell housing though the two bolt holes for the tab washer. A three foot pipe was put over this lever arm to create enough leverage to loosen the bell housing.  It was tight but once it started to turn, it came off easily.

Step 4.             Remove the large spacer, the movable sheave, the spring, the spring retainer, the  bearing and the small spacer

Step 5.             Examine the cam pins for wear.  This is done by removing the cotterpin on the outside of the bell housing and pushing out the cam pin.  When the clutch spins, centrifcal forces on the cams cause the movable sheave to close on the belt.  It is important that the cams swing freely.

Step 6.             The cam push against four wear tabs in the four slots on the movable sheave.  These wear tabs prevent wear on the aluminum sheave.  All four slots should be the same depth to ensure even pressure from all four cams.  If the wear tabs are missing or badly worn, they should be replaced.

Step 7.             Check the bearing for fit on the fixed sheave shaft.        

Step 8.             Lubricate all moving parts and reassemble

            One point of note is that the engine bolt does not usually engage the thread on the end of the crankshaft by very much.  I would recommend having an engine bolt made 3/16" longer than the original.  This will ensure a better grip on more threads on the crankshaft end.


That's why he is the expert!


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