The Journey

Regular access to Knoydart is via  passenger ferry from Mallaig and these services are very much more frequent than they used to be. In winter months our neighbour Jon and Janet Sellers run a scheduled service in both directions Mallaig-Inverie 4 times day on weekdays and twice a day on weekends. The service is more frequent in summer. For timetables see Booking is strongly recommended on 01687 462916. The majestic former MFV the Western Isles also runs between Mallaig and Inverie with currently two ferries a day on Monday, Wednesday and Friday in winter, and on every working day in summer.

Private boats also run excursions by special arrangement by phone.

Mallaig can be reached by both road and rail, via FortWilliam.

The most restful way to travel up from the south of England is to travel over-night on the sleeper from Euston, London and this is what we almost always do. Since you sleep  through much of it, the long journey seems to be considerably shortened. The train leaves at about 9.15 pm and arrives in Fort William the following morning about 10am; there is then a connection to Mallaig at about midday, arriving at Mallaig around 1.30 p.m. The views from the train, from Glasgow onwards, are spectacular. The sleepers are very comfortable and are normally extremely punctual (so be warned about departure). For the keen readers amongst you the best views seen from the Mallaig train are on the Morrisons side (left going out). If you buy a Family Railcard the costs may be  reduced if you book early. The time  in Fort WIlliam can usefully  be spent  stocking up on food in Morrisons,  conveniently next to the railway station, and buying those essential wellie boots and maybe trout flies and a deer stalker in Rod and Gun in the High Street.

On reaching Mallaig, you only have to take your luggage about 100 metres from the station to the ferries. There are trolleys at the station. 


The journey by car to Mallaig is equally picturesque. One route is by motorway virtually all the way to Stirling, and then via Callander, Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy, onto the dramatic Rannoch Moor, Glencoe, Ballachulish, and FortWilliam; all with their attractions. It is about 11 hours from London and an overnight stop en route is best, if you have the time. The final leg to Mallaig leg is also beautiful. You can deviate along the old road to Arisaig harbour and see the white sands of Morar and leave your car in Mallaig, without parking fees (but do ask). 

Although the journey is long, we have always found it to be an enjoyable experience in it own right.


Another option is to take one of the many scheduled flights, from many places, to Glasgow. A car can be rented at the airport, although it cannot be taken over to Knoydart. Or else take one of the many trains direct from Glasgow to Mallaig.  A further option is to fly to Inverness and either hire a car or take the scheduled buses to Fort William and then the train to Mallaig

The journey over by boat is one of the best parts of the holiday as you get your first, close-up, glimpse of a very wild bit of Scotland. As Mallaig disappears the islands of Rum, Eigg and Muck come into view behind you, with Skye on our left. After 10-15 minutes a keen eye will be able to spot Sandaig Bay, and the Cottage coming into view and then disappearing on you're left as the boat cruises on to Inverie.The picturesque Inverie is easily spotted by the row of white cottages which line its shore. The new Inverie pier was completed in 2006 and makes landing very much easier than it used to be. 
Our Landrover will be ready for your collection in Inverie, near to the pier.There is then a 4 mile drive to the house along the coastal road until turning off down the Bay's private track.

The return trip by sleeps gets you into Euston at around 8 a.m., at which point we usually find ourselves wishing were still on Knoydart, on return to overpowering Civilization.