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Tools needed:
3/8 ratchet
12mm socket
14mm or 3/8in socket
Flat bladed screwdriver
Pliers
carpet/box knife or good scissors
 
As with any install, it is a good idea to read through the entire install instructions first to familiarize yourself with the process.
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1. Make sure the car is sitting on flat, level ground. Remove rear seat. If you need help with this, refer to this link: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/85669-removing-rear-seat.html
 
2. Remove rear seat supports, sound deadening and both inner LATCH brackets. In this pic, the rear seat supports have been removed as well as the inner LATCH brackets (though the LATCH bracket bolts remain - remove these as well), but the sound deadening is still attached - remove it (click pic to enlarge):
 
 
This is what you're left with:
DSCF2585.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
3. Prepare the turnbuckles and stainless wire rope sling. First "open" the turnbuckles by twisting them until there are about 7 threads left on the inside of each end. Open the "jaw" end of the turnbuckle by unscrewing the keeper bolt and place one loop of the sling in it and resecure the keeper bolt and tighten it:
DSCF2590.jpg picture by litespeedperformance DSCF2588.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
4. Cut a section of the larger supplied vinyl tubing to length and carefully slice it open (do not slice your fingers open!). Wrap it around the bolt portion of the "eye" end of the turnbuckle (this step can be done later in the process):
DSCF2593.jpg picture by litespeedperformance DSCF2594.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
5. Mount the upper arm of the Chassis Bridge. Make a "sandwich" with the following components from front to back:
Grade 8 3/8" bolt (gold colored), large fender washer, eye of the turnbuckle, large fender washer, large rubber washer and insert the bolt into the hole at the top corner of the rear seat opening near the strut top:
DSCF2596.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
Then get another large rubber washer, one of the smaller fender washers and the serrated nut. Place the rubber washer and smaller washer into the hole on the backside under the strut top and onto the 3/8" bolt with the rubber washer up against the metal chassis. Stick the nut onto the end of the bolt and finger tighten. It's a little tight in there but not too bad. If you drop the nut it won't fall into a black hole, you can fish it out of the recess with your finger or the screwdriver. Don't tighten the nut yet, just finger tight to hold it in place.
DSCF2595.jpg picture by litespeedperformance DSCF2597.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
DSCF2598.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
6. Mount the lower arm of the Chassis Bridge. You'll make another sandwich like previously with the bottom end of the arm as well. Take a small rubber washer and a small fender washer and place it against the chassis over the inner bolt hole of the inner LATCH bracket mounting position on the opposite side of the car from the top arm mounting hole - see pic at end of step 7 below, (if you are reusing the LATCH bracket, which is only necessary if you plan to install a baby seat in the car, otherwise leave it out, then place the bracket back in place first, then the rubber washer, small fender washer, etc. as below) and place another small fender washer on top of the other one and thread the Grade 10.9 bolt supplied with the kit (it is stronger and longer than the factory bolt) through all the washers and just barely into the hole. Slip the loop of the wire sling in between the two stainless fender washers. This is what it looks like:
DSCF2600.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
Now go ahead and tighten down the bolt until you've got the loop "caught" in place enough to hold it but still leaving enough slack for it to move a little. You won't tighten the bolt all the way yet.
 
7. Tighten the turnbuckle to take up the slack in the wire sling just until the loop at the bottom of the arm is pulled in between the fender washers and doesn't slide off. Now go back to the top mounting bolt and tighten it with the 14mm or 3/8" socket (either will work). At first you can just hold the nut in the back with your fingers, but it's going to get tight enough where it wants to turn on its own - probably, it may not. If it slips, insert the flat blade of the screwdriver into the hole and wedge it up against the bottom of the nut (not as hard as it sounds), and this will keep the nut from turning though you may have to reposition the blade a time or two. Torque the bolt down just enough to cause a little deflection in the outer fender washer - this will be pretty tight and if you pull back and forth a little on the eye of the turnbuckle you'll see the fender washers doing their job in spreading the leverage of the bolt over the flat surface of the chassis. Of course, the turnbuckle won't actually move in this direction very far at all but you can see the principles at work.
 
Now go to the bottom mounting position and tighten the bolt with the 12mm socket capturing the loop end of the sling in between the fender washers - make sure you have enough of the slack taken up in the sling by tightening the turnbuckle a bit as you go. As you do this, make sure you're not bending the bolt upward before its engaged enough of the threads to grab good and tight. Here as well you will tighten the bolt until there is a small amount of deflection in the outer fender washer. This will cause a very small amount of "crush" in the wire that makes up the loop, but only a small amount - too much and you'll damage the individual wire strands causing a weak point. You should be good and tight with only a SMALL AMOUNT OF CRUSH!
 
Now finish tightening the turnbuckle until the wire sling has about as much fore to aft deflection in the middle of it as an alternator belt, or about 1/2" to 3/4". It will feel very tight but should still have that little bit of give in it. The best way to tighten the turnbuckle when it gets too hard to twist by hand is to use the screwdriver inserted in the hole and/or use the pliers to grasp it and turn it. Overtightening it won't help the function and in fact will just cause weak points. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE TURNBUCKLE! You'll just break something. Here's what it looks like:
 
DSCF2601.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
Notice I have the jaw end of the turnbuckle turned flat front to back so it doesn't protrude into the rear seat back or sound deadening when you reinstall it. Go ahead and do the other arm the same way as the first paying attention to not overtighten anything, just follow the instructions. Both turnbuckles should be showing equal amounts of bolt inside to assure equal tenson from side to side. At this point, you can slice open the smaller sleeve of vinyl tubing (watch your fingers!) and wrap it around the sling where the two cross to keep them quiet and free from wear:
DSCF2602.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
Your Rear Chassis Bridge installed:
DSCF2605-1.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
DSCF2603.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
8. Reinstall the sound deadening and rear seat supports in that order if you plan to reuse them. Reinstall the rear seat. You will have to push in just a bit on the rear seat mounting tabs in the area shown below, but this will not have any negative fitment effect whatsoever. Notice if you have a pass through you can still use it:
DSCF2607.jpg picture by litespeedperformance
 
9. Go drive! And as with any suspension modification, the good ones anyway, your car will handle differently so take it easy as you learn your car's new capabilities. Enjoy and thank you for purchasing Litespeed.