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Viper Security System Fail


    This summer I purchased a great motorcycle.  A 1999 Honda Shadow VLX600C.  I love the bike.  And you bet that I have a project brewing for this bike.  The previous owner told me that he had a Viper Security system installed, but he got a Honda Dealer to remove it before he sold it.  So one day the electrical system cuts out on me and I start to investigate only to find.


    They say that a picture is worth a Thousand words so there are a few.

Picture 1  

    2 splices within 1 inch of each other, burn marks on BOTH splices,  The splice closes to the Fuse Box has a cut right through it.  I also love all the exposed copper sticking out of the splice.

    Correct me if I'm wrong BUT, blue wire splices are designed for 14-16 AWG. Perhaps if the splices were yellow (which is used for 10-12 AWG) they not be burned.

Picture 2

    This problem was hidden by electrical tape

Picture 3

    Burned insulation, the spliced in green wire was the wrong AWG.  And when I run the motorcycle with the Headlights on HIGH and blinker on I could feel the wire getting warm !!!!  Well this isn't a surprise, splices do cause hot points and having them really close together can't bee good, nor does the fact that the wire splices are both undersized for the current draw.

    Notice the crimp job on the connectors, real pro.  No crimping tool that I know of leaves that kind of mark.

    Lastly, it is hard to see by the picture However, the yellow and red wire has 1/8 of an inch of exposed copper at the bottom of it, and a bunch of the strands are broken.


Figure 1:

    So, what do the damaged wires do?  Well google to the rescue.   

    The green spliced wire (highlighted in green in figure 1) is the source of all positive power for the entire electrical circuit (no wonder its warming up). 

    The yellow spliced wire (highlighted in yellow in figure 1) passes the signal from the ignition switch and fires the starter relay.

    There are a few spare spaces on the Fuse box on the bike so my project will not be spliced into the wire harness like this anti theft device was.


    So whats the worse that could have happened?  Well the good news is that this splice was on the fused side of the circuit.  So the fuse would protect the battery from a short.  

    Automotive batteries do not have a thermal cutoff/protection, so if this splice was before the fuse the battery could have gone into thermal overload, exploded and acid would leak everywhere.  The acid would have started eating at parts of the engine (now granted this would only damage chrome but it would have been a mess to clean up, and a new battery costs money).  Good thing the fuse is there ha?

    If this connector shorted on the road it would have killed the entire electrical system.  Not what you want while your going down the highway.  The yellow wire is an ignition switch cutoff so that wouldn't have done anything while riding (well unless you stall and try to restart).  BUT the 2nd (green wire) is the main feed for the electrical system, so if the relay inside the security system ever cut out while you were riding, it would have killed your entire electrical system, the engine would STOP, No headlights, no blinker.  I sure as hell would not want that to happen to me (especially at night).  For this Viper gets a big FAIL.


    Now if anyone knows how to get this connector by it self (along with the pins) please e-mail me at  I really would love to return this to the original state.  And thus far I have only been able to get this connector by buying the entire wire harness.  Which is around $200.  So HELP !!!!!.

Picture 4:  Side View

Picture 5: Bottom View


Picture 6: Removal Method.

    Removing the receptacle from the connector wasn't too hard, you just needed the right tool in order to pop the barb and push.  My tool was a piece of fencing wire, that I flattened with a hammer to get the right thickness.  Very technical.

    So push the wire forward (this will remove pressure off the barb), then push the the barb lifting tool in as far as it will go.  Then use a small screw driver to push the the front of the connector and wiggle the wire a bit.  DONT pull the wire, most of the time this results in breaking the connector right at the crimp.  If this doesn't work it might be because your unlock tool is not lifting the barb over the lip.

Figure 2: Connector Cutout View.

Picture 7: The wires are now removed.

    So this is all I needed to remove the connectors.  Sweet.  Notice how the connector broke off the 2nd wire?  well it was so brittle i barely touched and it fell off.  Good thing that I fixed this now, I would have hated to have this happen on the side of the road.

Picture 8: A nice closeup of all the damages.  Isn't that pretty.

    The best part is that this is a standard connector, there are several options on the Tyco Site (just make sure you get the proper AWG).  Now, I tried contacting Tyco for help, and wow was the salesman was an ASSHOLE!!!, Don't call to ask for help.  Back when I was buying 1000's of connectors at a time they had all the time to talk to me now, they treat me like garbage.