----------THIS PROJECT WIZARD IS NOT COMPLETE----------
(and it probably never will be.....but check out what I have so far)
 
 
 

 
 
 >>>>>>>>>>>> SECTION 1 - MOUNT STATUS <<<<<<<<<<<<
 
 
FIRST YOU WILL NEED A MOUNTING BRACKET, if you already have one you can skip to "SECTION 2" (SCROLL DOWN)
 
There are several different types of wall mounts, and countless designs.
 
Most of the time a simple fixed mount is all that is needed, like this:
 
  
FIXED MOUNT
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
      This mount holds the tv straight up and down on the wall.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
You can achieve what I refer to as a "fixed tilt" by adding spacers at the top of the fixed mounting bracket and not at the bottom. This is a technique (PIONEERED BY YOURS TRUELY) which will cause the tv to tilt downward as much as desired (depending on spacers used), but never move once it's mounted.
 
I suggest using:
 
 
 
 
Of course if you want to be able to adjust the tv while it is on the wall, you will need a tilt mount, which is:
 
 
 
 
 
 
TILT MOUNT
 
 
 
 
 
 
       This mount is like the fixed mount, except it has the ability to adjust the angle of tilt while the tv is on the wall.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
These two types of mounts are usually much stronger than specified by the manufacturer. Don't even worry about weight, as long as it will actually fit the bolt pattern on the tv it will be fine. Especially newer tv's, even the weakest stationary mounts can support the heaviest recently manufactured tv's 
 
 
I suggest using:
 
  
 
Of course that is not the case when dealing with a full motion mount, which is:  
 
  
  
 FULL MOTION MOUNT
 
 This mount extends away from the wall and is fully adjustable in all directions. Special care should be taken in
using this type of mount for various reasons.
 
 
 
 Different types of full motion mounts:

 1 ARM 1 LINK

  

 

1 ARM 2 LINK MOUNT

 

 1 ARM 2 LINK

WISHBONE STYLE MOUNT

 

 

 2 ARM 2 LINK

 

 

 

 2 ARM 2 LINK

WISHBONE STYLE MOUNT

  

 

 

2 ARM 1 LINK

  These mounts are weird but they do exist, typically relying on a

sliding action along the wall plate in order to retract.

 

  

 
 
 
 
Certain physical properties come into play when dealing with full motion mounts, such as leverage, and balance. Although the vast majority of people who use this type of mount actually never end up moving the tv (like they thought they were going to at first).... people who do.... find that it must be leveled every time it is moved. Each time the tv is repositioned the orientation of the mount will change which will affect the direction of force that is applied to it, and cause it to lean or sag one way or the other. Of course, the lighter the tv and\or the stronger the mount, the less this characteristic will be prevalent. This type of mount comes in handy when the layout of the room is such that it is necessary for the tv to be at an angle on the wall (but never actually need to move), or if the tv is going to be in a corner.
 
 
I suggest using:

 
 
 
 
 
 
Most full motion mounts are known for having a large profile (the space between the tv and the wall), however, there are full motion mounts, that when retracted, have a relatively small amount of profile.
 
If you are concerned about the profile or if you are interested in getting the tv as close to the wall as possible,
you will probably want to get a low profile mount, which is: 
 
 
 
 
 LOW PROFILE MOUNT
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
           This type of mount puts the tv as close to the wall as possible. This specific example is actually a "low profile TILT mount", but the tilt is always limited to the size of the tv, the size of the bolt hole pattern on the tv, and most importantly the specific placement of that bolt pattern relative to the center line on the tv's height measurement (without the base).....either way, in my opinion tilting the tv on this type of mount defeats the purpose of low profile mounting.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
low profile mounts are not a good idea if:
- your tv has exhaust vents that will be too close to the wall to breath properly
- you are using a substantial amount of cables
- the connector ports plug in perpendicular to the tv face and angle adapters are not possible
- you regularly access the termination panel on the back of the tv
- you are putting the tv on a rough stone wall
 
        
 
 
 
 
 
 
               I reviewed this type of low profile mount pretty harshly after testing it, but it is true
    that there are certain applications where it does perform adequately.
 (to see the overload and failure testing for this mount.....click here)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I suggest using:
 
   
 
 
WHEN SELECTING A MOUNT JUST REMEMBER THAT THE TV SIZE IS IRRELEVANT, THE ONLY THINGS THAT MATTER ARE THE WEIGHT OF THE TV AND THE BOLT HOLE PATTERN (VESA COMPLIANCE).
 
 ALSO, THE MOUNTS THAT I HAVE SUGGESTED MAY NOT FIT ALL TV'S
 
 
IF YOU HAVE A MOUNT, I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT KIND YOU HAVE (model number if possible)
IF YOU DON'T HAVE A MOUNT, I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT KIND YOU WANT

 >>>>>>>>>>>> SECTION 2 - SURFACE TYPE <<<<<<<<<<<<
 
 
What type of material will the tv be mounted on?
 
 
 
Sheetrock walls and wood panel walls are typically framed using either wood or metal studs.
Stucco walls (usually exterior) have the same wood or metal stud framing but are covered with plywood which is coated with the stucco material.
 
 Brick, stone, and concrete walls should be fairly easy to identify.
 
 
 
IF YOU ARE DEALING WITH A FIREPLACE
 
  
 
 TRY TO BE SPECIFIC
 
 
 
 
 EXAMPLES:
 
#965  - Before
 
SHEETROCK FIREPLACE
 

 

#997 - After

SHEETROCK WALL

 

 

SOLID WOOD

   #921 - After  #901 - After
 #915 - After

variable sized/shaped stone fireplace

 

 

#924 - After

VARIABLE SIZED STONE BLOCK FIREPLACE

 

 

 

 

 

#950 - After

PLAIN BRICK WALL

  

 

EXTERIOR BRICK WALL

 

 

BRICK FAKE FIREPLACE

 

 

  

#998 - After

LARGE ROUND CONCRETE PILLAR

 

 

WOOD PANELING

 

 

 

 

 
 I HAVE PUT TV'S ON SOME WEIRD SURFACES BEFORE, AND I AM ALWAYS LOOKING FORWARD TO NEW CHALLENGES
 
 
 
 
  I NEED TO KNOW WHAT TYPE OF MATERIAL THE TV IS GOING TO BE MOUNTED ON, IF YOU'RE NOT SURE, JUST SEND ME A PICTURE 
 >>>>>>>>>>>> SECTION 3 - CONCEALMENT OPTIONS <<<<<<<<<<<< 
 
 
 
 If your wiring is already in place, or if you want to handle it yourself, and/or at a later time.....THEN YOU ARE DONE! (but feel free to continue if you want to learn more)
 
 
 
 
 The most popular method for hiding the cables is to put them inside the wall.
 
like in this example:
  #006 - After
 It makes the tv appear as though it is "floating" on the wall
 
 
 
In order to do this I have to make two (2) holes in the wall, which can be done in a variety of ways, such as:
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
This is just a plain hole in the sheetrock, about an inch in diameter,
most people who decide they want in-wall concealment, but are
renting, will choose this because it is the least intrusive method, and
the easiest to repair when they move out
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 This is called a "Retro Box", it requires a significantly bigger hole, but is
good for people who own their place, and will have these openings
hidden completely with no chance of them ever being seen
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This is a "Wall Plate", and it can be done one of two ways. You can make a
regular hole (like in the first example), put it over the hole and screw it into the sheetrock,
or you can have a "Retro Box" installed and screw the wall plate onto it using the standard screw holes
 
Either way, this would be used if there is some possibility that the plate
might be exposed, or seen somehow 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 There is a large variety of wall plates, but the one shown above is a custom plate that I make by drilling a hole in an unbreakable blank nylon wall plate.
 
 
 
 
 
Also, both holes DO NOT have to be done the same way, for example, you can choose to make
one opening just a regular hole and the other opening a wall plate....or however you want to do it
 
 
 
 
  
Another option is to use a "cable raceway". 
 
 like in this example:
 #723 - After
 If you notice the white thing between the tv and the component cabinet....that is the raceway.
It's basically a flat plastic conduit that goes on the wall and the wires run through it.
It can be painted to match the wall in order to help it blend in a little more.
This method does minimal damage to the wall, and is what many people use when they are renting
and don't want to deal with fixing the sheetrock when they move out.....or if the installation is only temporary.
 
  
 
 
THERE ARE MANY DIFFERENT TYPES, STYLES, AND SIZES OF CABLE RACEWAYS, HERE ARE SOME EXAMPLES:
 
 
   
   
   
   
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
CABLE CONCEALMENT FOR FIREPLACES
 
 
THERE ARE DIFFERENT METHODS OF IN-WALL CABLE CONCEALMENT FOR EACH TYPE OF FIREPLACE. RACEWAY CONCEALMENT IS ALMOST NEVER DONE ON FIREPLACES, THAT DOESN'T MEAN IT CAN'T BE DONE, IT'S JUST THAT PEOPLE ALMOST NEVER CHOOSE TO DO IT THAT WAY, I THINK I'VE ONLY DONE IT MAYBE TWICE.....EVER! (it is an option though)
 
 
 
 
 
 
FIRST THERE IS THE TYPE OF FIREPLACE THAT STICKS OUT FROM THE WALL LEAVING AN INSET OR "NICHE" ON AT LEAST ONE SIDE, WHICH MAY EITHER BE AN EMPTY OPEN SPACE, OR POSSIBLY HAVE A BOOKSHELF AND/OR CABINETRY BUILT INTO IT. THIS TYPE IS THE EASIEST TO DEAL WITH BECAUSE IT GIVES YOU A PLACE TO PUT THE COMPONENTS AND IS THE MOST CONVENIENT IN REGARDS TO RUNNING THE CABLES.
 
I CALL THIS A "PROTRUDING FIREPLACE", HERE ARE SOME EXAMPLES:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This example has a bookshelf and cabinetry on one side
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This example has a niche on one side
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 This example has bookshelves and cabinetry on both sides
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This example has niches on both sides
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This example has a bookshelf on one side and a niche on the other
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This example is just a wicked awesome protruding fireplace!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
THE NEXT TYPE OF FIREPLACE IS ONE THAT IS JUST ON A FLAT WALL AND DOES NOT HAVE A BOOKSHELF OR AN INSET/NICHE ON EITHER SIDE, BUT IT MAY HAVE A WINDOW ON AT LEAST ONE SIDE (or both sides to maintain symmetry).
 
I REFER TO THIS TYPE AS A "FLUSH FIREPLACE", HERE ARE SOME EXAMPLES:
 
 
 
     
     
 
 
 
 UNLIKE THE PROTRUDING FIREPLACE, THE FLUSH FIREPLACE HAS NO REAL CONVENIENT PLACE TO PUT THE COMPONENTS. MANY TIMES THE COMPONENT HOUSING WILL BE A CABINET OF SOME KIND THAT SITS BESIDE THE FIREPLACE ON ONE SIDE OR THE OTHER. THIS USUALLY RESULTS IN A SYMMETRY ISSUE THAT MAY REQUIRE SOME CREATIVE AND/OR STRATEGIC APPROACH TO DEAL WITH, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, THIS MAKES THE RUNNING OF CABLES MUCH MORE COMPLEX.
 
IF THE FIREPLACE IS ON AN "EXTERIOR WALL" (which means the other side of the wall is actually the exterior of the house) THEN TYPICALLY THE BEST METHOD WOULD BE TO RUN THE CABLES OUTSIDE THE HOUSE IN A SEALED/WEATHERPROOF CONDUIT, HERE ARE SOME EXAMPLES:
 
 
 
 
   

 

 

 

 

1 BEND - both sides are stone

 
 

 

 

 

 

2 BENDS - one side all brick

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

3 BENDS - both walls are siding

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

1 BEND - one side is brick and the other is siding

   

 

 

1 BEND - both sides are brick

   

 

 

3 BENDS - both walls are siding

 
 
 
 
 
THE NEXT TYPE OF FIREPLACE IS ONE THAT IS IN A CORNER.
 
I REFER TO THIS TYPE AS A "CORNER FIREPLACE", HERE ARE SOME EXAMPLES:
 
 
 
     
     
     
 
 
THESE FIREPLACES CAN BE HANDLED THE SAME WAY THE FLUSH FIREPLACES ARE IF IT IS ON AN EXTERIOR WALL, OR IF IT IS AGAINST A STAIRCASE THE CORDS CAN BE RUN THROUGH THE AREA UNDERNEATH IT. WITH A MULTI FLIGHT STAIRCASE (LIKE THE TWO EXAMPLES DIRECTLY ABOVE), EVEN THE COMPONENTS CAN BE CONCEALED IN THE SPACE UNDER THE LANDING (MORE INFO ABOUT COMPONENT CONCEALMENT BELOW).                      
 
 
THERE CAN BE CORNER FIREPLACES THAT ALSO HAVE SHORT SIDE WALLS,
 
I REFER TO THESE AS "PROTRUDING CORNER FIREPLACES", HERE ARE SOME EXAMPLES:
 
 
     
 
 THE SIDE WALL(S) ALLOW THE CABLES TO BE RUN IN THE SAME WAY THEY ARE ON A PROTRUDING FIREPLACE, WHICH MAKES THE INSTALLATION MUCH CHEAPER, EASIER, AND FASTER, BUT THIS USUALLY LEAVES A SHORT SPAN OF WIRING EXPOSED DOWN BY THE FLOOR THAT MAY NEED ADDITIONAL STEPS TAKEN IN ORDER TO COMPLETELY CONCEAL.
 
 
 
 
 
COMPONENT CONCEALMENT
 
 
 
 
SOMETIMES A COMPLETELY CLEAN LOOK IS DESIRED INCLUDING HIDING ALL OF THE COMPONENTS. IN THIS CASE IT IS BEST TO KEEP THE NUMBER OF COMPONENTS TO A MINIMUM, AND SELECTING THE MOST APPROPRIATE DEVICES CAN ALLOW CERTAIN CONFIGURATION OPTIONS TO BE POSSIBLE, SUCH AS:
 
- WIRELESS CABLE BOXES: NOT LIMITED BY CABLE OUTLET AVAILABILITY/LOCATION
- STREAMING DEVICES (APPLE TV, ROKU, ETC.): SMALL SIZE, EASY TO HIDE (BEHIND TV, ETC.)
- SMART TV: NO NEED FOR STREAMING DEVICE (IT'S BUILT IN)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
THE FLOOR PLAN OF THE HOUSE WILL DETERMINE IF THE JOB WILL BE MANAGEABLE, AND TO WHAT EXTENT. IN SOME CASES THE LAYOUT OF THE HOUSE WILL ALLOW FOR SUCH AN ENDEAVOR TO BE ACCOMPLISHED QUITE EASILY,
 
 
HERE IS AN EXAMPLE OF A RELATIVELY OPTIMAL FLOOR PLAN: 
 
 
 
  A COUPLE ISSUES WITH THIS TYPE OF INSTALLATION WOULD BE, WHEN PLAYING A DVD/BLURAY SOMEONE WOULD HAVE TO ACTUALLY GO INTO THE CLOSET TO PUT THE DISC IN THE PLAYER, AND THERE MAY HAVE TO BE A REMOTE CONTROL SOLUTION....SUCH AS:
 
REMOTE CONTROL OPTIONS
 
 
 
UNIVERSAL RF REMOTE: 

 

 
IR TO RF CONVERTER:  

 
REMOTE EXTENDER:

 
IR SIGNAL REPEATER: 

 
 
 
 
 
   I NEED TO KNOW IF YOU WANT ME TO DO CABLE AND/OR COMPONENT CONCEALMENT, AND WHICH METHOD YOU WANT TO USE 
 
 >>>>>>>>>>>> SECTION 4 - CABLES <<<<<<<<<<<<
 
 
DO YOU HAVE ALL OF THE CABLES YOU NEED?
ARE THEY LONG ENOUGH?
 
 
There are a lot of different types of audio/video cables, it seems like every time I turn around i'm seeing a new cable or connector. I'm sure by the time my son is my age he won't even know what a "Component" cable is, and "VGA/DVI" cables won't even exist.
 
Currently the most popular types of AV cables are:
 
 
 
 
HDMI
(high definition multimedia interface)
 
TRANSFERS UNCOMPRESSED VIDEO AND AUDIO THROUGH A COMPACT CONNECTOR/CABLE
 
 
 
 
 
 
UNTIL HDMI "ARC" (audio return channel) BECOMES MAINSTREAM, THERE WILL STILL BE THE NEED FOR A SEPARATE AUDIO CABLE FOR OPTIMAL SURROUND SOUND UTILIZATION, SUCH AS:
 
 
 
 
OPTICAL AUDIO CABLE w/ toslink (JIS F05) connector
(toshiba link or EIAJ)
 
 TRANSFERS CODED/COMPRESSED AUDIO SIGNAL USING RED (λ of 650nm) LIGHT THROUGH A 1mm PLASTIC OPTICAL FIBER
 (not vulnerable to ground loops or rf interference, but limited effective range (about 20' due to high light-signal attenuation)
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
some other cables you might run into are:
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
DIGITAL AUDIO COAX CABLE w/ phono connectors
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
COMPONENT VIDEO CABLE or RGB (red green blue) w/ phono connectors
 
This cable set consists of 3 "RCA" cables and transfers separated compressed/coded digital high definition video signals.
 
 
 
 
 
COMPOSITE VIDEO CABLE w/ phono connectors
 transfers a 1 channel standard definition NTSC formatted video signal
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
STEREO AUDIO CABLE w/ phono connectors
transfers an S/PDIF formatted analog stereo audio signal 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

+

 

 

 

=

 

 

 

This is a complete component cable. This cable set is the equivalent of a standard speed HDMI cable.

 

 

 

 

+

 

 

 

 

=

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a complete composite cable. This cable set is NOT capable of carying an HD quality video signal.

                        
  
 
 GOLD PLATED CONNECTORS?
 
 
 

 
 DON'T LET BEST BUY FOOL YOU!!!! The difference between gold plated connectors and regular ones is so miniscule that it doesn't even register, as a matter of fact it takes an extremely precise instrument to tell that there is even a difference at all, and that is the measurement(s) of the actual data signal transfer. Being able to notice a difference in the video output display is impossible, and anyone who tries to convince you otherwise is lying to you and probably trying to scam you! 
 
 

 
 Companies like "Monster" and "Audioquest" are notorious for convincing people that they will get some type of added benefit from using their "premium" materials, I've never seen that fact more true than when I saw this:
 
Audioquest "DIAMOND" HDMI cables

 try paying two grand for a ten foot hdmi cable, god forbid you should
need the forty foot length, it would be more than ten thousand dollars
 
They will probably try to tell you that this cable was created in the future by alien robots and blessed by an indian medicine man before being touched by the hands of god and sent back in time specifically to be purchased by you, and that would actually have to be the case for me to even begin to be interested in buying one. 
 
 
This is a premium high performance 40' HDMI cable that would work just as good, available from an online source:
 
 
 Monoprice.com (link to this cable)

That is a bit more reasonable!!!!
but still far more than most installations require,
in regards to size AND quality
 
 
 
 
Most of the time this is all that is needed:
 
also Monoprice.com (link to this cable)

 

 
 
ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT HDMI CABLES IS THIS:
 
THERE ARE 2 DIFFERENT TYPES OF HDMI CABLES,   1.3a   AND   1.4   THAT'S IT!!! (all prior specifications are obsolete)
 
1.3a     is standard speed and sufficient for everything except 3D video
1.4       is high speed and only REQUIRED for 3D video
 
 
 
THINGS LIKE:
 
A.R.C. (audio return channel)
H.E.C. (bidirectional ethernet)
CL2 RATING (fire retardancy)
NETJACKET
REDMERE
BUILT-IN EQUALIZER
FERRITE CORES
 
ARE AVAILABLE IN BOTH TYPES OF HDMI CABLES
 
 
 
 
THINGS LIKE:
 
GOLD PLATED CONNECTORS
D.B.S. (dielectric bias system)
P.S.S. (perfect silver surface)
HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE INSULATION
 
ARE COMPLETELY WORTHLESS,
JUST DELIBERATELY COMPLICATED/SOPHISTICATED SOUNDING LABELS FOR FEATURES THAT HAVE NO REAL BENEFIT  
 
  
 

 
 ANGLE ADAPTERS
 
 
Angle adapters (also known as "port savers") allow cable connectors to plug in at a 90 degree angle, or a variable angle in some cases. 
 
For every type of cable there will most likely be an angle adapter for it.
 
 
 
Here are some examples: 
       
         
 
 
 
 
There are also cables with the angle adapter(s) built-in
 
LIKE THESE:
 
 
 
 
 
These can help with issues like: 
when the mounting bracket happens to get in the way of the termination panel
low profile mounting
cable conservation
 
 
 Wiring Configurations
 
  
 
 
 
click on picture to enlarge
 

<-----Many people are still under the impression that this is the best way to configure an entertainment center with surround sound

(this is a 5.1 system, for 7.1 just picture four back speakers instead of two)

 

 RECEIVER AS HUB

 

-connect the component(s) to the stereo receiver using the HDMI cable(s)

-connect the stereo receiver to the tv with an HDMI cable, If this is not possible (or even if it is possible) refer to the example below 

 

 

 

 

<-----This is the most optimal way to configure an entertainment center with surround sound

(this is a 5.1 system, for 7.1 just picture four back speakers instead of two)

 

TV AS HUB

 

-connect each component to the tv using the HDMI and/or COMPONENT cable(s)

-connect the stereo receiver to the tv with an OPTICAL audio cable or a DIGITAL COAX (rca/phono connector) cable, If neither is possible then you need to upgrade your receiver!!!!! (I would suggest a "Denon")

 

 

 

 

 

<-----This is the most optimal way to configure an entertainment center with a sound bar 


 

-connect each component to the tv using the HDMI and/or COMPONENT cable(s)

-connect the sound bar to the tv with an OPTICAL audio cable or a DIGITAL COAX (rca/phono connector) cable

 

NOTE: it is usually difficult to program a universal remote to control a sound bar, unless the soundbar has a "learn" function which allows it to learn the ir volume control signals from your (preferred/primary) remote

 

 
 IT IS FINALLY POSSIBLE TO CONNECT THE REAR SPEAKERS OF YOUR SURROUND SOUND SYSTEM USING A WIRELESS ADAPTER
!!!! THAT ACTUALLY WORKS !!!!
EVEN THROUGH WALLS (NO LINE-OF-SIGHT)
RELATIVELY LOW COST
EXTREMELY EASY PLUG-AND-PLAY CONFIGURATION
USING YOUR OWN SPEAKERS
 
HERE IS A LINK:
 
  FOR MANY PEOPLE THIS IS A DREAM COME TRUE.....AND FOR EVERYONE ELSE, THE POSSIBILITIES ARE CONSIDERABLE
 
 

 
 
 >>>>>>>>>>>> SECTION 5 - POWER <<<<<<<<<<<<
 
 
 
There are several different ways to supply the tv with power, the best method for an install depends on specific characteristics of the job.
 
 
 
 
 
FOR HOMEOWNERS
 
 
 
Having an outlet installed behind the tv is code compliant, and reasonably inexpensive if you find the right person to do it.
 
There are several different types of electrical outlets, such as:
 
 
 

 

 

This is just a standard electrical outlet

 

 

 

This is a GFCI outlet, which is like having a standard electrical outlet with a surge protector built into it

 

 

 

This is a recessed electrical outlet, which is used for low profile mounting

 

 

There are also weird outlets like this one, which has a couple of usb jacks integrated into a standard electrical outlet

 
 
 
 
 
There are situations where a GFCI outlet is desired for a low profile installation. Since I have never seen a recessed GFCI outlet in my life, a "recessed wall box" is used with a GFCI outlet installed into it. Here are some examples of recessed wall boxes:
 
 
 
   
   
   
   
   
 
 
If there is going to be a component cabinet below the tv (which is typically the case), a "Power Bridge Kit" may be a better idea, here are some examples:

   
 

 

 

 
 
One method for installing an outlet is what I call an "outlet jump", but it does have certain requirements.
 
NOTICE THE AREA BETWEEN THE RED LINES IN THESE PICTURES
 
 
To do an outlet jump there must be an existing outlet in the area directly below the tv.
It will also work if there is an existing outlet in this area on the other side of the wall.
 
 
Many people prefer to have their tv's protected using a standard surge protector strip, which is a good idea even though 99.9% of all surge protectors will never actually be used for what they were designed for, so usually they just act as a way to expand the existing outlet to supply power to more devices.
Also, if a power transformer near the home is struck by lightning and the resulting current happens to travel through the circuit that the tv is on (through the surge protector), if the charge is strong enough it will simply arc across the fuse in the surge protector and blow up the tv anyway. 
If this is something that is a concern, when installing an outlet, ask to have a "GFCI" outlet installed.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
but if there is not an outlet in this area.....
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 If the existing outlet is outside of the area directly below the tv on either side of the wall, then a "Power Bridge Kit" would be the best solution.
 
 
 
 
To protect the tv using this solution, typically the power bridge kit is simply plugged into the
same surge protector that all of the other devices are plugged into.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
but if there is not an outlet in that area either.....
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 If there are no outlets to be found at all (ON EITHER SIDE OF THE WALL), power may have to be dropped from the attic.
(this situation is very rare)
 
 
 If this is on the bottom floor of a two story house (meaning there is not an attic above this room) , then you are in bad shape and will have to find an electrician to handle it.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 FOR RENTERS AND TEMPORARY INSTALLATIONS
 or for those who want to save money
 
 
 
 A method known as a "POWER EXTENSION" can be implemented, which is basically an extension cord passed through an in-wall drop along with all of the component cables. The tv plugs into it, and it plugs into the same surge protector strip that all of the components are plugged into. This method is somewhat controversial due to the fact that it is not code compliant, but seeing as how it is basically free, and completely safe, most people choose to do it anyway (EVEN MANY HOMEOWNERS). The only issues with this technique are:
 
-if this installation somehow causes damage to any property (which I have never heard of this actually happening before.....ever!)insurance will not pay for it.
-if a large remodel project is being done, where a permit is required, the installation will have to be made code compliant or the project will not pass the final inspection. 
 
 
There are basic things that can be done in order to ensure that this type of installation always remains safe, such as:
 
-the section where the tv's power cord plugs into the extension cord should not be inside the wall, unless heavily taped using high quality electrical tape
-the extension cord should always be plugged into an adequate surge protector
-the extension cord and all of the component's cables should be removed and inspected at least once every 24 months, or if a major event occurs such as: a flood, fire, major pest infestation, or if there is reason to believe that the installation has been tampered with in any way. If any cracking, flaws/defects, or any degree of damage is discovered, the cord should be replaced or properly repaired immediately. This operation does not necessarily pertain to the component's cables since they are low voltage, but it is a good idea to follow the same practice with them as well, just for good measure.
 
 
To further protect the system, the cord can be wrapped with high quality "Heat Shielding Tape", which will make it virtually indestructible, and in some ways, far safer than standard code compliant wiring could ever be.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 MORE TO COME!!!!!!!!
 
 
 
 
 
 

FUTURE TOPICS:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
EXTERIOR TV ENCLOSURES AND COVERS
 
 
TV TOO BIG TO FIT IN NICHE
 
 
CEILING MOUNTS
 
 
TV PLACEMENT PROTOCOL 
 
 
SURROUND SOUND SPEAKER PLACEMENT
 
 
SOUND BAR BRACKETS  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Comments