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Double Knitting Tutorial

This tutorial is Under construction.  The links to each section are active, but still missing are many sub links in each section. The tutorial is also  missing many images and video links. (Feb. 2015) Check back, and watch for improvements.
Most of this tutorial is culled from text originally posted on my blog. Links to original posts can be found in references section (Part 11).
This first section is an overview of various knitting techniques that are sometimes referred to as double knitting. 
The second half of this section covers Half Double Knitting and Simple Double Knitting. 

Like all to many knitting terms, the term Double Knitting  is used for several different techniques.  Some of these techniques are classic double knitting, and some of these techniques are not.  Sometimes confusion arises as a result of  faulty translations; or perhaps not faulty--but just ambiguous words, and a translator who is unfamiliar with knitting.  The term double knitting is also used for a weight of yarn! Especial in the UK, (and UK commonwealth countries) but more and more frequently this  weight of yarn is available world wide.  This tutorial doesn't concern itself with the yarn, just with various knitting technique.
Do you know any of the various styles of knitting that  are called "Double Knitting"? Or just  some of them? Or even perhaps, none?  This tutorial is an attempt o explain and illustrate many of them.

Most forms of double knitting require only intermediary skills and learning one, some or all the different types of double knitting  will increase you options for customizing or designing a knitted garment. Learning about double knitting is a fascinating experience, and will open your mind to new ways of thinking about knitting. Several of the processes used don't make sense--until you try them.  

I happen to love double knitting. I know of 7 basic forms of knitting that are (sometimes) referred to as double knitting:
To start at the beginning--
1--Half Double-knitting. One side of the work is double-knit, one side worked in a standard ribbing or in garter stitch.
2--Single Yarn double knitting.  Is a form of tubular knitting worked on straight needles. Unlike knitting in the round, this sort of knitting want to lie flat--as a 2 sided tube.
3--Shaker knitting, aka Broiche stitch. This topic is not fully covered (why re-invent the wheel?)  There is an excellent site devoted to this style of knitting see here
4--Jacquard or Interlocking double knitting  This the style that is most often associated with the term double knitting, and will be covered in full.
5--Advanced double knitting -- There are 2 major types of advanced double knitting:
 A—multi-yarns, multi-color, very frequently with different designs on each side; and 
 B—single color, multi dimensional, double knitting.  
6--Scandinavian 2 yarn, single color double knitting—with a common name of Twinned  or Twined knitting.
Scandinavian 2 Yarn double knitting is, in execution, similar to stranded (aka color) knitting, but the results, are very different. 
This too, is sometimes referred to as double knitting, but I think it is a category of its own. (that is, its not double knitting at all!)
Twined (or Twinned) Knitting  It does use 2 strands of yarn, but unlike most double knitting, it does not result in a double sided fabric.  What it  does create an almost run proof double layer mesh.  It is included in this tutorial just so you know about.  (minimal information about this style of knitting is covered.)
7---Twice knit Stitch, (or Herringbone Stitch) a knitting process that works each stitch in row to be worked twice. When worked flat, it creates a double thick fabric, and twill like surface (that does not resemble stocking knit, or any other standard knit stitch)
Some of these techniques are classic double knitting, and some are really totally different techniques.  

Each of these techniques has there uses, and each is worked in a different way. 
This tutorial will touch on all the different types of double knitting, but the bulk of the information will be about types 1 to 5 (from the list above). 

Many classic double knitting techniques are worked in 2 passes--That is, some stitches are worked in the first pass, and the remaining stitches are worked in the second pass.
This can make working in double knitting slow and tedious.  One row (of stitches)  is worked twice, first some stitches are worked (often in MC).  The  other stitches in the row are slipped, in the second pass, the previous slipped stitches are worked (often in CC) and previous knit stitches are slipped.

Almost any kind of double knitting can be worked this way, but there are techniques for working double knitting rows in a single pass, most basically, by  knitting 1, and then purling 1--This will created a  double sided, jacquard patterned  stocking knit.  But double knitting is not limited to jacquard patterned stocking knit.   Advanced technique, often include stitch patterns that create  textures surfaces, and the results are 2 color, double sided knit fabrics with textured stitches--such as garter, seed, and basket weave, etc. There are many variations ranging from simple techniques, to advanced ones--Some worked as K's and slip's, (2 pass method) Others worked in a single pass--(see Advanced Double Knitting)

1--Half Double Knitting
This technique is very useful for making firm, less stretchy (stablizing) edges. It has a slightly different row gauge than standard stocking knit or standard garter, and is a useful edge for a sweater(cardigan) front “button band” that can be knit in place There are several basic flavors: 
One style looks like ribbing on the front, and like a slip stitch  stocking knit  on reverse
The other style looks like garter stitch on both sides.
a third style looks like garter stitch on one side, and stocking knit on the other. (no video available yet)
All of the styles create a knit fabric that is firmer, thicker, and less stretchy,making them good edging stitches. They also changes the gauge (compared to stocking knit or garter.)
There are likely to be other variations of this type of double knitting, and these will be added as they are found.

2--Single yarn, Simple Double Knitting.
This is the simplest. Even easier than half double knitting. Like all double knitting, it can be hard to understand what is going on by just reading the directions.
The Basics:
Single ya
rn, simple double knitting is usually worked over an even number of stitches. (As you advance in skills, you can work it over an odd number stitches) 
Row 1 and all rows: * K1, bring yarn forward (as if to purl) then slip 1, bring yarn to back of work, (as for knitting) and repeat from *

Be sure as 
you work, that you bring the Yarn forward to front of the work , as if you were going to purl—and not over the needle (as in a yarn over) before slipping each stitch—and slip the stitch as if to purl. 

Single yarn double knitting is actually a way to knit in the round on straight needle. The type of double knitting creates a tube. This tube is joined onto one needle, making the top of the tube is ‘closed’ by the stitches on the needle.  If you remove the needle, you can reposition the stitches onto 2 needles and see the tube clearly.  The stitches can also be divided by knitting them onto 2 DPN's. I think removing the needle is easier, but to each, his own.

There are several methods to start—Some methods leave the cast on edge closed, and some methods leave the cast on edge open. 

The image on the left shows all the stitches on one needle (as they are normally worked)   In the image on the right, the stitches have been repositioned onto 2 needles and my fingers are inside the tube of double knitting.
If you use a tubular cast on, and grafted cast off, simple double  knitting looks magical, with no clear starting, stopping or edge! It creates a fabric of stocking knit, on both sides, and it is tubular. It is very straight, and curl free--making it an excellent choice for the classic stocking knit scarf.  My small sample features a self patterning yarn, but making strips (narrow 2 row ones, or broad multi row ones) is no harder in simple double knitting than it is standard 2 needle work.

Single yarn double knitting has many uses:
Straps -
on sundresses or halters
Straps on children’s rompers
Belts--as a separate belt add on at the waist, or for belted ties on wrapped sweaters
Shoulder straps for bags.
Double layered headbands (narrow, decorative ones, or thick hat like ones)
Simple (plai
n or striped) stocking knit scarves (that don’t curl!)

Following a tubular cast on, a few rows of simple double knitting will make a slightly larger “tube” at the edge. Simple double knitting can also be used as a selvage stitch, making a very attractive edge.

Simple Double knitting

 Can be used to create a knit 'ribbon' for a tie on a sailor's shirt, or even a man's tie;  as a neckband on a button-less cardigan, it can be used for tie closure. 

You can use a standard cast on and bind off –especially if the edges of the knitting will be hidden, such as by a fringed edge on a scarf .Or a provisional cast on to make a headband (with a  provisional  cast on edge to start, and the final row,  bound off, via grafting, to the cast on edge to make seamless piece of knitting. You can use a tubular cast on and matching cast off to give every edge of the Single Yarn Double knitting a very neat appearance.  If the double knitting is started and ended with an invisible (aka tubular ) cast on, and a matching grafted bind off, the knitting ends up looking magical with no clear starting point or ending point. (See the Cast on and Bind off pages to learn more about these cast ons and bind offs.) Basic simple double knitting is stocking knit stitch (on both sides of the work.) 

Basic, simple double knitting. 
Cast on a multiple of 2 
Row 1: (and all rows) *K1, yarn forward, slip 1 purl wise, yarn back, repeat from *.
The scarf above was made with a long color change yarn--using 2 strands. Work 2 full rows (repeat row 1 4 times) in color A, then work 2 full rows with color B--
This scarf was started with an invisible cast on, (see Part  3) and finished with a grafted bind off.  

Simple Double Knit Seed stitch,  
Cast on a multiple of 4. 
Row 1 and 2 : *K1, Sl1, P1, Sl1, 
Row 3 and 4: *P1, Sl1, K1, Sl1,
Repeat these 4 rows 

Simple Double Knit with eyelet buttonholes  
With practice, you can do many of the numerous stitches that are created with combinations of knit and purl stitches exclusively, such as a waffle stitch or a basket weave. The stitch patterns can be worked on one side, or both sides of the work.  Single yarn double knitting does not lend itself readily to use with patterns that have yarn over's, but you can make simple eyelet button holes, with some effort. 

To create an eyelet opening, a a cable needle is needed  to first rearrange the stitches, 2 knit stitches must be placed together (the slip stitch temporarily held on the cable needle) and then: YO over, K2tog.  The K2tog is worked using the 2 repositioned  knit stitches on front of work.  
Before continuing, you will need to re-arrange the stitches again, so as to have, YO, slipped stitch, the K2tog stitch, before continuing with the rest of the row.

On the next row, you need to repeat the operation, This time first having the cable needle hold the YO and K2tog stitch, then working  a K2tog, YO  so that the YO are in the same position on the other side of the knitting. Finally, the stitches much be rearranged again, returning the work to a K, Slip order.  More than a single yarn over eyelet or two  in the work is considered advanced double knitting because of all this repositioning!

When and where to used simple double knitting
The list above provides some basic uses.. But there are others. I  have (as an experiment) knit gloves, by starting with a eyelet cast on, and working from finger tips to finger base (making all 4 finger FIRST) plus the thumb (held aside on a separate needle till needed) 

After finishing the 4 fingers, join them together to knit palm, (leaving some unworked stitches between each finger, that were later grafted in the finishing)  After some rows, I added the thumb, made a thumb gusset with decreases, and ended at the cuff.    All done in simple double knitting --seamless gloves knit on 2 needles! Seamless mittens are easier--and a good way to experiment with the simple double knitting technique. --but I don't have any patterns to share with you. 

Shaker Knitting-- -Aka Double Knitting, AKA 2 color Brioche Stitch,  is another type of knitting that is sometimes classified as double knitting.  I don't think of it as double knitting, but I do understand why some do--especially Shaker knitting, which is a rib stitch worked in the Broiche method.
Shaker knitting is deeply textured, reversible knitting. It is excellent for warm sweaters. (It uses about 50% more yardage of wool than the same size of standard knitting.) It is a bit difficult to gauge, because it is very stretchy.
Shaker Double knitting uses a brioche stitch--the K1B (knit in the stitch below method) 
The Brioche stitch can also be worked as 
Row 1: YO/slip 1, K1, (or P1)  
Row 2: The previous K (or P) is  worked as a YO, Slip 1, and the YO, Slip 1 from previous row is worked as K2tog, (or purl 2tog)
Row 3: and further rows are like Row 2.  
The results of the YO, K1, that is later worked together  are the same as the Knit 1 below. 
And results in a deeply textured rib type stitch. 

Like Simple double knitting, and some forms of Jacquared double knitting, it takes 2 passes to complete (work all of the stitches) in a single row.
When working in the 2 pass method it is easy to use 2 different yarns, (MC and CC) and  one side of the work is predominately MC, and the other side of the work is predominately CC.  Which gives it a similar appearence to Jacquard double knitting.

The combination of a YO, Slip 1, followed by a k1 (or a knit the YO/previous slipped stitch as a K2tog) is similar to simple double knitting which is K1, slip1, and this contributes to the Brioche stitch being likened, or considered a form of Double knitting.

In The Big Book of Knitting (Katrina Buss) has complete directions for making a shaker-knitting sweater--. With all the details you need to know--including increases, decreases and picking up dropped stitches (a feat of magic if you ask me!) 

Nancy Marchant hosts The Brioche Stitch—a web site filled with information, videos, and patterns. If you are interested in this type of knitting, her web page is a valuable resource.
Shaker knitting can also be done in with two colors of yarn.
When worked with 2 colors, it creates a knitted fabric with a predominately different color on each side of the knitting. But like slip stitch patterns or simple double knitting, you have to knit each color on a row separately. 

This requires that each stitch be 'slipped or knit' --each stitch in the row is processed 2 times per row of knitting.
A circular needle is required. 

First you work in color A (Knitting one stitch, and slipping the alternate stitch), At the end of the row, half the stitches have been “worked” --in this example they have been knit. To complete the row, the stitches are moved to far end of the needle, and the row is “worked” again. This time, using the contrasting color yarn to work the stitches that were slipped in first pass and at the same time slipping the stitches that were worked. Each row requires 2 passes to work all the stitches in a row.

This two step process is one of the reasons why this type of knitting is sometimes called double knitting. It creates warm, deeply textured, two toned effect on the front and back to the work, with one color predominating on each side.

In Weekend Knitting, (edited by Pam Allan,) Wendy Easton has a pattern for a 2 color shaker (brioche stitch) knit hat, scarf and neck warmer. Along with information on working in this processing --there other fun details, including an I-cord cast on! The collection of patterns feature instructions for knitting in the round or flat.

Personally, I have never much like this style of knitting, and haven’t got past knitting swatches, and a hat or two. But if this is the sort of knitting you like, be sure to check out the Brioche stitch web site (link above) . It is the best source for information. 

This is Ur of double knitting, and the main focus of this tutorial.   It is worked using two strand of yarn, in at least 2 different colors. It is the hardest of the basic (vs advanced) double-knits--But it is easier than Fair Isle, which it resembles, since you never have floats, Secondly, each yarns are always worked together.  Each yarn moves from back(knit position)  to front (purl position) together, making it is much easier to have an even tension. In hand, it feels like 1 X 1 ribbing--In fact, you might find you are knitting looser (rather than tighter) and find it best to go down a needle size to have the desire tension/fabric/ and gauge. Just as it is common to go down a needle size or two when working ribbing.

Charting and patterns reading can be harder, because patterns are worked on both sides (and sometimes 2 different directions). I think simple, geometric and regular patterns are best in the beginning. The rigid  structure to these patterns make them easier to "count out"--as you work them and on the needle.  It is difficult to see a mistake on the needle.. it often won't become evident until the next row is being work.   As you become comfortable--both working and repairing your mistakes, you can move out and on to more complex patterns—and there are many! 

Jacquard double knitting interlocks the two layers of knitting together, AND at the same time, forming a two tone jacquard/or fair isle type design.--
It results in a single ‘fabric’ -- 
not a two sided tube. The 2 sides of the knitting are, if not completely, at least frequently, interlocked and can’t be pulled apart. A double sided stocking knit , that is a single fabric.  This Hat, (for sale in my Ravelry store)  is a perfect example of Interlocking Jacquard double knitting.  Notice how the colors are positive/negative. 

The two interlocked layer of fabric, make this kind of double knitting durable and warm. The interlocking design resist 'run's'(aka "laddering")  when fabric is worn through--an asset for mittens or other gear that might be get worn out in active outdoor sports or work. Because of its warm and durability, its is excellent for socks and mittens and other outwear.
With hats and scarves, the two-sided design makes them 100% reversible. For the same reason, it is excellent for afghans--and potholders! I often knit potholder, and consider them to be oversized swatches.  They are good practice for learning a pattern, (and learning if you like double knitting).  They are also practical practice pieces

Getting started.
When double knitting, you will use 2 times the amount of yarn used in single knitting --and you need to cast on 2 times the number of stitches.
If a pattern for a scarf calls for 30 stitches, and you want to turn the scarf into a double knit design, you’ll need 60 stitches.

Potholders, (one of my favorite double knitting projects) are often about the same size as wash clothes--so instead of 30 to 40 stitches, each potholder needs 60 to 80 stitches.
I think of Potholders as large swatches. They are useful in there own right, and small enough that they are easy to do. But I have also done hats, and cowls, and even a vest.

I live in a very warm apartment, so i have no need for double knit blanket--but blankets are another common thing to work in double knitting.  It is possible to make button holes, or to shape double knitting but it is harder to do this than in standard knitting--so simpler shapes tend to be preferred.

As for potholder, they large enough to understand how to work a pattern. They can be considered swatches--and opportunies to learn double knitting techniques. I tend to knit mine in Cotton, (and then intentionally shrink them by washing in hot water and machine drying) –but Wool is an excellent insulator (better than cotton) and also a good choice.  Wool pot holder can be uses as is, or more commonly,  fulled (the proper technical term for intentionally shrinking and felting knit items) Fulling them makes them dense and increases the insulating properties.

Acrylics and other synthetic yarns are not good choices for potholders—they melt at about 350°--and could be hazardous at higher temperatures—but these fibers are fine for hats, or scarfs, or place mats.
How to do Interlocking Jacquard Double Knitting:
When working Jacquard double knitting, both yarn move together (as one) but only one yarn is used to work a stitch. 

Double sided Stocking knit--using 2 strands of yarn, in 2 different/contrasting colors In a single row, the process is
K1, using a single strand of yarn. (MC)
Bring both yarns forward, (as to purl), 
P1, using a single strand of yarn (CC)
Bring both yarns to back of work (as to knit)
Repeat the K1, P1 process across the row.

Designs are created by sometimes using Main Color(MC) on the front of the work, and sometimes using Contrasting Color(CC) on the front of the work.
With many charted designs, a single block on the chart is uses for 2 stitches. (K1, MC; P1, CC). 
The first stitch is the knit stitch (in MC, or CC as indicated by chart) and a second (companion stitch) is worked the opposite color.

By sometimes using the MC and other times using the CC, the front (and back side) of the work are interlocked, and jacquard (color work)designs are formed.  See this video.

For this reason, I think it is easier to hold both yarns in one hand. (but then, I feel the same when ever using 2 strand of yarn!)  I naturally knit left handed, and I learned and mastered double knitting in my teens, with minimal directions. Because both yarns move from the front to the back and then back again, I think 2 yarns in one hand is the best method.  (I can barely knit right handed, but there are many right handed knitters who do stranded color work using only their right hand--so i have no double it can be worked out.

Casting On.  There are several ways to start (Cast On) here are 4 of the more common methods. (there is no right or wrong way, and there are other ways to cast on besides these 4. I just think these methods created a neat edge) Also see the LIST of Cast On's

1-Provisional/tubular Cast on ½ the total number of stitches needed (one side/one color(A))This method creates a hem of a single color, before the double knitting starts.

You will need 2 circular needles too (o a set of DPN"s. 

Use your favorite provisional cast on,  Mine is EZ's provisional cast on. Cast on 1/2 desired number.
I like to use a small diameter circular needle instead of waste yarn to hold the provisional stitches, since 
you’ll be working the provisional stitches in just a few rows If you use a crochet style provisional cast on, the stitches will need to go on a second needle) 

Work 3 to 7 rows of stocking knit, then, fold the knitting, Knit side out, and hold the two needles with stitches parallel (As if you were about to do a 3 needle bind off)
Pick up second color,
Knit 1 from front needle (color A) then Purl 1 in color B from back needle (provisional stitches)
* Bring both yarn to Back of work (as if to knit) and Knit 1 from front needle-using only color A yarn.
Then bring both yarns to front of work (as if to purl) and Purl 1 from back needle using only color B
Repeat from * across row, until all the stitches have been worked. (cast on 1 stitch (a simple make 1) to correct the count. )
(If desired, you can start a pattern on this first row of double knitting.)

The folded edge make a neat border (and it can be duplicated for the bind off edge if desired). It is also possible to plan a turning row in the hem, either a single row of purls on the right side of the stocking knit, or a row of K2tog, YO's for a picot fold.  Another option is to work the hem in 1 X 1 ribbing.

2—2color tubular cast on /and Judy's Magic Cast on  Tie together 2 strands of yarn, and cast on using either of these methods. These cast ons will, when worked according to standard directions, create a cast on row of 2 colors. 
With Judy's magic cast on, Row 1, join the 2 parts of the knitting together by knitting onto a 3rd needle. 
Hold the work as if to do a 3 needle bind off, K1 (MC) P1, (CC) --(see  above if detailed directions are needed.  Don't bind off.. just repeat till all the stitches are on 1 needle.
You can begin the jacquard pattern at Row 1 if desired.  Alternately you can work some fondations rows of K1 MC, P1 CC and create a 2 sided hem (with each side a different color). 
Both of the above methods create invisible cast ons.

3--Long tail, Braided. Instead of 1 ball and the standard long tail method, use 2 balls, (for ease, slip knot them together) but don’t leave a long tail(4 to 6 inches is plenty).

Make a slipknot with both colors…do not count this stitch in you count, and when you complete the first row, drop this stitch. The ends will be woven in later. Hold the yarn as if The CC yarn was the tail, and MC was the ball.
Cast on one stitch (MC)  A normal long tail cast on.

Before casting on the next stitch, *loosen your hold on the yarns, and rotate the MC over the CC, and hold the yarns as if the Mc yarn was the tail(THUMB) and the CC yarn was the ball, (i.e., reverse the yarns positions) and cast on a stitch
(Two stitches cast on, 1MC, 1 CC on the needle)

Loosen your hold the yarns, and rotate the CC yarn over the MC, and hold the yarns as if the dark yarn was the tail and the white yarn was the ball, and cast on a stitch. *

It doesn't matter if you roll the yarn clockwise or counterclockwise-- but you must be consistent, and always rotate in the same direction.
Repeat these steps till you have until you have desired number of stitches
Remember that you need, in total, 2 times the normal number of stitches..

By rotating the yarns in the same directions, the cast on will create a braid, which will nicely mirror the cast off.
It creates a braid that closely matches the cast off
It creates a "purl" bar on one side of the work (white)

4--Longtail, Regular and Reverse
(this is my preferred method)
Instead of a ball and long tail, use 2 balls, (for ease, slip knot them together) but don’t leave a long tail. The instructions refer to the colors as MC and CC (I recommend you use high contrast color for your first projects.)
Make a slipknot with both colors…do not count this stitch in you count, and when you complete the first row, drop this stitch. The ends will be woven in later.
Hold the yarn as if the CC yarn was the tail and MC yarn was the ball. 
Cast on one stitch (MC) (standard Long tail cast on)
Then, bring the needle to the back of your hand, and pivot point of needle into loop made by your index finger. (It helps to crook your index finger and create a C shape)

Make the second loop with the CC yarn --that is the yarn on your thumb. 

Pivot needle back out into starting position, loosen yarn on index finger, snug up stitch, and position yarn to be ready for next stitch.

1 stitch dark stitch cast on.
Stitch 3, standard cast on, (and all odd numbered stitches)
Stitch 4, the "reversed" cast on. (and all even numbered stitches)
It creates a smooth cast on that look the same on both sides of the work
It looks different than the cast off
It is slightly harder to do.

Notes—the links are to cast on videos—these will open up in a new window. There are other ways to cast on for double knitting, (lots of them) and you can research and experiment and find the style you like best.

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Part 4-- More about Jacquard Interlocking Double Knitting

So now you’ve cast on--What’s next? Knitting!
Jacquard or Interlocking Double knitting is a process of knitting a fabric that has 2 ‘right’ (stocking knit sides) often with patterns that are positive/negative in nature. This possitive/negative imaging is COMMON, but there are many designs that are different on each side.
Most often, one side is predominately color A, the other side is predominantly color B. Either, (A or B) can be solid, tweed, ombres, color ways or conventional stripes! The designs can be similar to fair isle, or can be similar to intarsia, but the double knitting process is easier than either.

There are no float, nor ends to weave in (except cast on and bind off tails) no tricky maneuvers to interlock the colors. The process uses each yarn evenly (that is there are an equal number of stitches in color A and B)--which minimizes tension problem.

Charting and patterns reading can be harder, because patterns are worked on both sides (and sometimes 2 different directions). Simple, geometric and regular patterns are best in the beginning. 

The symmetry of these designs make them easier to learn and easier to see mistakes.   As you become comfortable, you can move out and on to more complex patterns. When double knitting, you will use 2 times the amount of yarn used in single knitting --and you need to cast on 2 times the number of stitches--always cast on an even number of stitches. 

The basic method of 2 color double knitting is:
Hold (or MOVE) both yarn together.
Knit first stitch with Yarn (color) A
*Move both yarns to front , (as to purl)
Purl next stitch with Yarn (color) B
Move both yarn to back (as to knit)
Knit next stitch with Yarn (color) A

Repeat from * for remainder of row. (end with a Purl stitch)
NOTE: this is simple 2 color double knitting and is not interlocking Jacquard double knitting.

For the purposes of this tutorial, the side of the knitting that has more of the MC, will always be referred to as “the right side”--though, in reality, both side look like the right side
To Interlock and make designs, you work stitches on the MC side of the work with the CC yarn, and the corresponding stitches on the wrong side with the MC yarn.
This will interlock and created designs.
Here is one of my favorite ‘stitch designs’ --it’s a small checkerboard type pattern, with the name of “Birds eye”. It completely interlocks the right (or front) with the reverse side. (or back) It is difficult to see this pattern as you knit, BUT it is very easy to ‘check your work’ on the needle as you go.
On the needle, you’ll have a single stitch of at each end, and the center stitches will be pairs of stitches in the same color.

Birds eye Double knit pattern

Cast on an even number of stitches. (I suggest 30 to 40, doubled, i.e., 30 of MC + 30 of CC,)
R1: Knit the first stitch on the row with the opposite color.
(if the first stitch is a MC one, knit it with the CC yarn, if it is CC, knit with the MC yarn)
Purl 1, and K1 with opposite color yarn,
Then P1, K1 with first yarn
So lets presume you are starting the row with a light colored stitch on needle.
Row 1: K1 (cc) * P1, K1 (mc), P1, K1 (cc), repeat from * across the row, End with P1.
This pattern is very easy to see and to check your work on the needle--double check by counting off by 2’s to make sure you have pairs of stitches in each color, with a single stitch at each end.

R2: Knit or Purl with opposite color of yarn. 

(Depending on the cast on number, you might find you start with K1, (cc) then work the repeats, and end with K1, P1 dark( instead of a full P1, K1 (mc), P1, K1 (cc) repeat. 

This will not effect the over all pattern. If the first stitch is a light one,(MC) knit it with the dark yarn(CC), if it is dark(CC), knit with the light yarn(MC)

Continue is basically same pattern as row 1, being sure to work light stitches with dark yarn, and dark stitches with light yarn.

(use the tails of the yarn to help see the difference between the two rows) 

After 7 rows, it looks like this: a fine checked pattern...

A simple pattern can be created by, starting with a birds eye stitch pattern, then adding some stripes (K1 (mc) P1(cc) for the entire row)
The stripes can be single row ones, or multiple row ones. This combination, of stripes and birds eye stitch, makes an interesting design.
This potholders, server to illustrate some simple patterns made from stripes, and Birds eye patterns.

This Pot holder is a sampler of simple stitch patterns.

Cast on 80 stitches (40 of MC, 40 of CC)

Row 1 : *K1 (MC), P1 (CC) ,(repeat 2X), then, K1, CC, P1 (MC) repeat 2 X)--Repeat from *

Row 2: K1(cc) P1(mc), repeat 2 times, K1 (mc), P1 (CC) repeat 2 X

Row 3: Work row 2. 

Row 4:  Work Row 1

Row 5: Repat Row1, 

Row 6: Repat row 2)

These 6 rows will create a slightly larger (2 stitch by 2 row) checkerboard.

The checkerboard is followed by some simple stripes, and then 6 rows of the birds eye stitch pattern.

More stripes, and  repeat of rows 1 and 2 --which marks the center. Then the pattern is reversed--making a symmetrical design.  More of a sampler of stitch patterns than an actual design.  Simple patterns like this are good ways to practice and perfect double knitting skills.

Gingham is an other pattern that makes use of the birds eye stitch, combined not with stripes but with blocks of stitches. 

This gingham pattern is not that hard. 

Below is an outline version of the pattern, a more complete version is available on Ravelry (free)

Cast on 72, (36 each of MC and CC--use marker to divide into 6 groups of 12 stitches each. 

Work the first 12 stitches in K1 (MC), P1(CC) , followed by a block of Birds eye pattern.

 Repeat the solid blocks, and birds eye blocks across the row.

Row 2 starts with the birds eye pattern, followed by the solid colored blocks.

After 8 rows, the pattern changes So row 9 starts with the Birds Eye pattern, followed by a solid block of simple double knitting. Just be sure to make this solid block the opposite color. IF you first set of blocks had a Light color on front, then be sure to make the next set of blocks the dark color. Row 10 start with the solid (but now on wrong side, the block will be dark!) and is followed by the birds eye pattern.  

This will create a gingham like design by following the first 8 rows with 8 rows of an alternating pattern of blocks--first birds eye pattern, then blocks of simple 2 color double knitting,

Here are some General directions for adapting other patterns
In these directions, I will refer to each yarn as dark or light (or black/white)--Beginners will find it easier to learn if they:
Use only solids colors yarns, and avoid ombres or other color ways--at least for the first few potholders.
Use colors with high contrast
Use pattern with only KNIT STITCHES
Use simple geometric patterns (not florals/stars/ intarsia like designs.)
All of these ‘patterns’ define what you see on the right side—(since pattern is on both sides, right side is always the predominately  “light/white‘ side (dark/black side is always wrong side.)

The Actual knitting If you have followed the basic direction for casting on, and started with your first cast on stitch as a light color, the last stitch cast on will be dark.
Turn the work to begin to Double Knit.

Remember when double knitting: (in stocking knit)

1-- always hold and move both yarn together
(both yarn move forward for a purl stitch, both yarn move back for a knit stitch.)
2--while both yarns move, only one yarn is use to make a stitch.
3-- the work has the feel of “1 X 1 ribbing” --K1, P1..
4--It is very difficult to ‘see’ the pattern on the needles.
Have a crochet hook handy to be ready to undo and ‘repair’ mistakes.


The gauge created in double knitting is completely independent of a plain stocking knit gauge with the same yarn and needles. So if you are planning a project, you must make a swatch. 

For Potholders, I don’t bother. The size of finished potholder will be 8 to 11 inches (approximately square) no matter what your gauge. 

The few sample designs above,  do not require a specific gauge to look good.
Interlocking jacquard double knitting is similar in feel to ribbing, and as a GENERAL RULE, you’ll find the work looks better worked on smaller needles.
Instead of the size 7 or 8 (US) (4.5/5mm) needle you might use,(with a worsted weight cotton or wool)  a size 5 or 6 (US)( 3.75/4.25 mm) might be better. If you know you knit tight or loose, take this into account when selecting needle sizes.

Cotton potholders will shrink and ‘tighten up‘ if washed in hot water, and machine dried.
Most patterns count on that, and the directions call for tall rectangles to be knit, since cotton tends to shrink more in length than width.

After machine washing and drying, they  will be  closer to a square shape.


The patterns for the potholders are in "Worsted weight cotton"--Lion's "Kitchen Cotton", or Lily's "Sugar and Cream" or "Peach's and Cream", Bernat's Handcrafters cotton are some brands that I have used. I am sure there are many other brands as well. I have use different brands of cotton interchangeable, and they have worked together fine.
Worsted weight wools are a good choice too, 

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Prt 5 More Pattern ideas-(still mostly geometric)

More Pattern Idea for Jacquard Double Knit Potholders--Many of these patterns can also be used for scarves or place mats, or other items

plist          Steps           Windows Panes           Nine Patch            The Boxed Set

Steps (any dark and white combo) / Streaks of Lightning (yellow and any dark color)/Split Rail Fence (a brown or taupe, with green ) 

Based on a quilt pattern, this pattern changes names as it changes colors.  
Worked in any 2 contrasting colors, it is commonly known as STEPS.  When the same pattern is worked in a white or light yellow with a blue or black contrasting color, this same pattern is often called STREAKS of LIGHTNING.  If worked in light green(s) with brown or taupe as the the contrasting color, the design is SPLIT RAIL FENCE, The sample could be Steps or Streaks of Lightning.
Worsted weigh cotton (or wool) circa 85 yards (each), in 2 contrasting colors of your choice, US size 8 (5mm) needles,Crochet hook (optional),apestry needlepoint
Cast on 64 (32 stitches of each color) (Or any number that is a multiple of 8)

See Cast On list here for suitable cast ons.

The 4 stitches wide stripes offset 2 stitches, every other row, to create the zigzag line.

All changes are done on Right side (ever other row/ the odd row), For the even numbered rows, work each stitch in the same color yarn as previous row, working in the K1, P1 pattern of double knit stocking knit.

Row 1: * K1 (mc), P1, (cc), 4X, K1(cc) P1(mc) 4 times. Repeat from * across row
Row 2: Follow color pattern established in row 1
Row 3: K1 (mc), P1, (cc), 2X, *K1(cc) P1(mc) 4 X, K1 (mc), P1, (cc), 4X. Repeat from * across row, till 8 stitches remain. End row with K1(mc) P1(cc) 2 times.
Row 4: Follow color pattern established row 3
Row 5: *8 K1 (cc), P1, (mc), 4X, K1(mcc) P1(cc) 4 times. Repeat from * across row

Row 6: Follow color pattern established in row 5

Row 7: K1 (cc), P1, (mc), 2X, *K1(mc) P1(cc) 4 X, K1 (cc), P1, (mc), 4X. Repeat from * across row, till 8 stitches remain. End row with K1(cc) P1(mc) 2 times.
Row 8: Follow color pattern established in row 7

Repeat rows 1 to 8, 4 more times (40 rows in total)

Bind off, cut yarn leaving a 20 or so inch tail. Make a chain from tail yarn for a hanging loop. Sew in place with tapestry needle. Weave in end.

Pattern List

I tend to like symmetry--and most of the patterns are very symmetrical, but sometimes, asymmetry is the right thing. The Window pattern (I’ve knit it a half dozen times or so--it is a pattern I really like!) always has a band of birds eye pattern in the beginning. Is this the window box of flowers? Or is it that the potholder is upside-down (and this is the window valance? )
Who knows, I just know I like a bit of birds eye pattern at the beginning of the window. If you like the idea its a curtain/valence, leave a long tail and make your hanging loop from the tail.

Lucy Neatby has made a scarf very similar, and she called it "Box of Paints"--She uses a long color change yarn, and she is right, it does look like a box of paints!  

Window Panes

100 yards each of 2 colors of worsted weight cotton yarn--SAMPLE uses a solid blue and a pastel ombre.
Cast on 70 stitch, 35 of each color
Work 7 rows in Birds eye pattern:
R1: K1(mc) *[P1, K1, (cc), P1, K1, (mc)] repeat pattern in brackets, end row with P1, (mc)
R2: K1 (cc) *[P1, K1, (mc) P1, K1, (cc)] Repeat pattern in brackets, end row with P1, (cc)

Start of window pane pattern
R8: * K1(mc), P1 (cc) Repeat across row
R9: *K1 (cc) P1 (mc) Repeat across row
R10: Repeat R 8

Place Markers:
After 4th stitch, * after 18th stitch (14 stitches latter) after 20th stitch (2 more )
Repeat sequence from *, (groups of 14, then 2) ending with 4 stitches
R11: [K1 (cc) P1 (mc)] twice, {[K1 (mc), p1 (cc)] 7times, K1, (cc) P1(mc)}Repeat pattern in Braces 3 more times, (total of 4 repeats), K1, (cc) P1(mc)
R12: [K1 (mc), P1 (cc)]twice, {[K1 (cc), p1 (mc)] 7times, K1, (mc) P1(cc)}Repeat pattern in Braces 3 more times, (total of 4 repeats), K1, (mc) P1(cc)
Repeat these rows 11 AND 12 Four times (10 rows total)
One set of Window panes

Repeat pattern for window panes ( 3 more times, 4 sets of window panes) Window pane pattern starts at R8, and is 12 rows. 

End with R8 and R9, Bind off in same pattern, (add a hanging loop if desired)

Lucy Neatby has a very similar pattern, extended, to make a scarf, and she calls her pattern “paint box” She used a yarn with a slow color change, and omits the birds eye pattern.  

If you want a smaller potholder, use few stitches (decrease by multiples of 4, and make the ‘window panes' (the group of 14 stitches into groups of 12 (6 stitches per pane) or even a group of 10 (5 stitches per pane) As you understand the double knitting process, and will be ready to read charts, and make hearts, clovers, and other designs.

Nine Patch
Cast on 60 (66) stitches

Consider casting on one group of stitches –10 (11) with MC as tail yarn, the next group of 10(11) with CC as tail yarn, and ending with last group of stitches with MC as tail yarn—this will create the Nine Patch design starting from cast on edge.
Using markers, Divide the work into 3 equal groups of 20(22) stitches. This Tic Tac Toe example has 11 stitches in each group--and one side has X winning the other side has O winning. 

The pattern can be a simple Nine Patch, (no special design) or you can design a motif to fit into each patch—The sample is a Tic Tac Toe design of X's and O's, but Heart, Clovers, Stars are also suitable.
For advanced knitters, Hearts and Diamonds on the other, paired with Clubs and Spades (using red and black yarns) is one option. Make your own design, or find a pattern--as simple (just a plain 9 patch) or as complex as you like.  

Basic pattern (no design)
R1: [K1, (cc), P1 (mc) ] 10 (11) times, [K1(mc), P1(cc)] 10 (11) times) , [K1, (cc), P1 (mc) ] 10 (11) times
R2: [K1(mc), P1(cc)] 10 (11) X's) , [K1, (cc), P1 (mc) ] 10 (11) Xs, [K1(mc), P1(cc)] 10 (11) X's)
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 5Xs (6Xs) (12 (14) rows)

Change pattern to
R1: [K1(mc), P1(cc)] 10 (11) Xs , [K1, (cc), P1 (mc) ] 10 (11) Xs, [K1(mc), P1(cc)] 10 (11) Xs)
R2: [K1, (cc), P1 (mc) ] 10 (11) Xs, [K1(mc), P1(cc)] 10 (11)Xs) , [K1, (cc), P1 (mc) ] 10 (11)X's
Repeat this pattern a total of 6 (7) Xs.

Change pattern again,
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 6(7) Xs.
Bind off in pattern

Starts out with 66 stitches cast on.  After 3 rows of simple double knitting, there is a pattern change, the first 6 stitches continue in Light color (a) as do the last 6, but the 54 center stitches are in color B  Three more rows, and 12 of the edge stitches are vertical striped, and the center stitches are back to color A.
Continue, forming smaller and smaller nested boxes.
This last design shows why ombres are often less successful in double knitting. All to often, the 'natural mate' doesn't provide enough contrast, and the design edges become blurred. 

Pattern List

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Part 6—Working with both knits and purls on each side

I have made dozens of double knit potholders, and even documented dozens of simple patterns… Problem is, I gave the potholders away, --and some how--lost most of the images.   The real problem is, I love to knit new things, and dislike re-knitting a pattern I have 'explored' and understand.. I always want to be experimenting with new ideas and design, not rehashing old ones.

So as I have been preparing the tutorial, I have (grudgingly) been making some new potholders from these 'old' patterns.-simple patterns of stripes, or geometric designs, some I have given (or plan to give) away, and one, the black and white gingham, I will keep for myself. 
Many of my designs work best in solid colors, and over the years, --and I recommend solids to double knitting beginners. But, along the way, I have been seduced by cotton color ways and ombres.  I  am a sucker for multi color yarn in the skein. I love it. Until I knit it. Then, it's blah at best, and Ugh! at worst--at least to me. So I tried something different.. And surprised my self.

My idea was something like the “lice’ design of Scandinavian sweaters.. Dots of color in a regular pattern. Within a row, I decided simple dots didn’t do it—so that attempt was frogged. Next time I Purl’d instead of knit--it created some texture—and it worked.

Take this potholder--(right) One side predominately a red and white color way called Peppermint) 

It works up into a pretty, interesting pattern, but nothing spectacular.  The black dots are hardly noticeable in the red and white design.  

Or the one to the left a ombre yarn, that tend to knit up to a sort of argyle.   Both are OK, Not the most interesting of effects, but not bad. 

But look at the other side--Worked in a solid color. Zowie! That is pretty!
 I have  some black and white cotton, and now I need some solid red to make a ‘color mate’ for the peppermint and black potholder. 

The solid blue is exceptionally pretty too, (if I do say so myself!) Even if the ombre that tries to work up into argyle type pattern. it is just so-so. 

In both cases, I think the solid side with the purl "dots" is by far, prettier and more interesting.

That is one of the things I love about knitting-- You can learn and think, but sometimes, you need to actually knit something up to see exactly what you’ll get! And sometimes, you'll even be surprised! 

Working with purls in double knitting also changes the rhythm of the work.  In stocking knit, both yarns are held together and moved together.  When purling, the yarns are separated.

One yarn is held to the front, and anther is held to the back --If changing color, as in these examples, they are both separated and physically crossed at each color change. One yarn to each side, (front and back) It is just momentarily with these single stitches "dots". The Dotted designs aren't limited to a "lice: pattern--as these diamonds illustrate.  In this case, even the ombre side has a clear diamond design--and it very nicely breaks up the mottled ombre.  

The Dimpled Diamond Double Knit Potholder pattern  is available for sale on Ravelry

 Other designs, like this reversible basket weave design use whole rows of purl.  But look closely, and you'll see the yarns are crossed every 6 stitches, changing colors as the basket weave blocks change colors. It give the illusion of un-even lines, that sometimes look tapered  

All of these very simple knit and purl designs show some of the possibilities that exist when double knitting is combined with simple knit and purl patterns.  

I tend to like symmetry, and geometric designs---But don't let my taste limit you.  There are many simple knit and purl designs--Flags, anchors, fruit,--consider these designs. and make an original design of your own.

A HUGE topic! There are so many different things that can be done with double knitting every day, new examples are appearing.

I am just going to touch on 3 different directions of advance double knitting.
1—Non mirror image double knitting --Basic
2—Non mirror image double knitting -Advanced
3—Multi dimensional double knitting

The simplest way to create different patterning is Horizontal stripes on side A, (left) and Vertical stripes on side B (right). There are a number of patterns that uses this simplest form of non mirror image double knitting. It is not hard to do—You can find (not yet available) a free pattern for this pattern in my Ravelry store (or shop here on my web page) 

After this first basic design, there are more complex variations, of these simple stripe patterns  Here are two simple variations  The Red and White stripes (Awning) has Double Vertical stripes (with single horizontal) or The Black and White example has Double horizontal stripes with single verticals.

This pattern, Dots and Blocks is yet another variation of the horizontal/vertical striping. This pattern is, despite being a 22 row pattern, very simple and pleasurable to knit as well as being a more interesting than the first 3!  One side has dots of white on a black field, the reverse is mostly white, divided into 3 blocks by single stripes of white. 

I tend to like geometrical patterning, so its pretty typical of me to start with geometric patterns.

But there are more patterns to come—still geometric, but chevrons, and not straight lines! And there are circles—still geometric, but a far cry from simple stripes. Diamonds, too, and lots of other shapes/designs. Watch for updates and new examples.

Most directions for the simple Horizontal/Vertical stripe patterning have you work each row in a Knit, slip method, that requires 2 passes for every row. I think it is much easier to do this with a Knit/purl method that allows all the stitches to be worked in one pass.

One advantage to learning to work the simplest stripes in the single pass method is, it is easier to learn more complex patterns. You'll be able to quickly modify the simplest pattern, and create a solid (or mostly solid) color one side, and a more complex pattern on the other side, like the example shown.

More Advanced double knitting uses of 3 or 4 colors—Plus different patterns on each side of the work. The 52 Pick up Scarf is a great example.(Note: this link takes you Ravelry) I haven't done much of this sort of double knitting—But don't let my failing stop you from exploring.

Alasdair Post-Quinn book, Extreme Double knitting—is a great resource for both instructions and patterns. . Several patterns from the book can be found on Ravelry

3D Double knitting is the specialty of Lynne Barr, in her book Knitting New Scarves, features another style of advanced double knitting—3 dimensional double knitting. This kind of double knitting is a bit mind boggling.

Most often it is worked with sets of double pointed knitting, and utilizes the K1, slip 1 method of double knitting. It creates a 3 dimensional fabric--That is, a fabric with pleats and or shaping, not a flat double sided fabric. A cross section of one her scarves might be a Y shape, or + cross like, and finally there ar3d Textured scarves. One example, Drifting Pleats, is a a flat scarf, with raised pleats. A cross section of a pleated scarf might look like this: __|__|__|______, except the upright pleats (|) tend to fall over in real life, and create a 3 D texture, that is flatter!

These dimensional fabrics are most often knit in a single color, but not always.

One of the simplest of these 3D knitting techniques: Corrugated double knitting.

Works several rows of simple double knitting (K1, S1)... then change and work 2 or 3 rows of stocking knit, using just half the stitches, (this is easiest if worked on a 3rd needle) then return to simple double knitting for a dozen or so rows This will create ridges --the ridges can all be worked on one side, or can alternate and be worked on both sides...

The rows of stocking knit will create ridges will cause the flat knitting to corrugate. The process works best with an odd number of stitches cast on, (which requires a complete understanding of how to work simple double knitting (which is normally worked on even numbers)

As more and more designers explore double knitting, I feel sure there will be many new and interesting techniques to learn.

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This is the first kind of knitting that I have heard called double knitting--but really isn't--It is Twinned or Scandinavian Double knitting.
Is very similar to Fair Isle knitting, but it is done in a single color. Traditionally the two yarns are from one ball, but there really is no reason to do it that way--and several reason not to! 

This sort of knitting is known as tvåändsstickning in Swedish and tvebandsstrikking in Norwegian -- both meaning "two-end knitting”. (Or perhaps double end knitting, which leads to it being mis-translated as double knitting).  I first learned about it reading about of Roald Amundsen, the arctic explorer. In one of his diaries, he writes a thank you to his mother, who made (in the translation, I read) ’double knit mittens’ for every member of his Antarctic Exploration team. 
Almost certainly that is a mistaken translation by someone unfamiliar with knitting--and his mother most likely knit tvebandsstrikking mittens. 
(Interesting isn’t it, how when obessessed with a topic (like knitting) we can remember obscure details like this? I am sure I read the biography when I was in my teens, and and here, many years later, I still remember it.) 

This is partly because I was intrigued by the idea of double knitting as I read the passage, and started to learn about double knitting.  Only problem was, what I learned wasn't twinned knitting, but double knitting. I didn’t learn about tvebandsstrikking till I was much older! It seem unlikely Mrs. Amundsen went to the trouble of making reversible mittens, but very likely she worked in the well known Norwegian style, to make warm, durable mittens. 

There  are many different cast on methods that can be used, but a two-color braided cast on, is an excellent, if non-traditional cast on--especially if you work it in a single color (a two strand braid, rather than a 2 color braid).Twinned knitting often uses similar techniques, of purls and yarns floats carried on the right side of the work, for textural details/ 

When knitting, alternate yarns, working each stitch, with a different yarn twisting the yarn between the stitches. You'll know you are doing it right if the yarns (between needle tip and balls) twists up!

The yarn is on the back (wrong side) is often twisted, and creates a crepe like fabric  like fabric, similar to Latvian braids,  The resust is, unlike the wrong side of most stranded work, but especial Fair Isle work, where there is a deliberate effort NOT to twist the two strands of yarn.  

To do Scandinavian 2 yarn/2 end double knitting--start the work with 2 balls of yarn, or the outer and center yarn from a center pull ball. 

Alternately knit, using ball 1,(or outer stand of yarn) then ball 2 (inner strand of yarn) for the second stitch . The yarn, is carried on the back of the work, and always twisted in the same direction in each row of the work. At the end of row, turn work and twist in the opposite direction, undoing all the twists you created in the first row. 
If working with an even number of stitches, you’ll end the row with ball 2/inner strand,  and start Row 2 with Ball 1(outer strand). This creates an interlocking mesh stitch.

Each stitch is surrounded, (top, bottom, right and left) by stitches knit in the alternate yarn.  If a single stitch breaks the work is less likely to have a 'run' because the stitches above and below and to either side, have been worked with a different yarn. This mesh make the knitting run resistant.

Most often, the front is a simple stocking knit in appearance. The twisted strand on the back create smooth rows of horizontal braids, that looks almost like a crepe. Worked in fine wool, the strands will tend to felt or full with wear, and over time, and  become a single durable  fabric.  Like Jacquard Double knitting, each stitch is isolated from the next, and a broken thread are much less likely to run, so any holes or worn spots remain small. The crossed yarn in the back make this style of knitting very warm, and finally, the process also give the knitting a padding.layer on the back. 

There are pattern elements that use purl stitches and carrying the float on the front side of the work.. 

Once mastered, you realize you can knit almost any sweater or other garment that is mostly stocking knit, using the Scandinavian double knitting method, for warm durable outerwear. Even if you live in a tropical climate, Scandinavian double knitting has its uses; Scandinavian double knitting is excellent for heel flaps on socks. Whether it is worked with two strands of the same color, or with two colors for decorative heel, the padding make the heel more comfortable, and makes the heel run and hole resistant-- a wonderful bonus after you have invested so much time in knitting socks! I use this technique often in toes and heel flap, both for durability and decoration. Twinned knitting is also excellent for knit bags or other knitted items that need durability. 

twice knit swatch 
This swatch shows the Twice knit stitch (aka Herringbone stich)
This sort of double knitting has several interesting characteristics.  It creates a thick strong, dense fabric, that has almost no stretch, but is soft and plush.  It resist running (aka laddering) and unraveling--It can even be cut!  It is a good choice for soles of slippers, or for place mats or pot holders.

More to come

Is a type of stranded work that creates 2 layers of knitting.  It is very suitable for designs that have long strands that are carried on the back of the work.
Most commonly, these strands are woven into the knitted fabric (and sometime can be seen on the front of the work.)
Ladderback stranded work works ever 3 to 5 stitch, of a carry as a knit stitch to secure the strand. It can be used to create an intarsia like inset, and for doing intarsia like designs when knitting in the round,  
The outside of the work looks like stranded color work (it is stranded color work!) the inside has columns of knit stitches securing the strands, that look like ladders--
See Ravely for a very simple Tutorial

see this link:http://www.fabriclink.com/university/knit/Ladderback.cfm

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Part 11--References

Some Useful book and sites for all the different types of Double Knitting covered in this tutorial. Most are links to Amazon.

Lynne Barr; Knitting New ScarvesReversible Knitting 
Katharina Bush, The Big Book of Knitting
Margaret Radciffe; The Essential guide to Color Knitting Techniques
Melaine Falick; Weekend Knitting
Lucy Neatby--her web page, her YouTube Channel, or attend one of her classes
Lucy Neatby--How to cast on for double knitting in the round.  One of several of her videos .
Links to the original blog posts that this tutorial was based on
Post 6
Post 9
Post 10

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