by

Nancy V. Karp

nvkarp@gmail.com

A Simple Handout on the "How's" and "Why's" of Using Different Seam Finishing Techniques

Have you ever wondered how, why and when to use all those different Seam Finishing Techniques?

When you finish this brief review, you'll wonder no more.  The two main sections are 1) Non-Enclosed Seams and 2) Enclosed Seams

PART 1

Non-Enclosed Seam Finishes, Adds No Bulk 

The Pinked Seam 

Advantages 

1. Fast and easy 

2. Requires little equipment 

3. Adds an attractive appearance to seam allowance 

4. Allows full seam allowance width for alterations 

5. Seam allowance lies flat against the body 

Disadvantages 

1. Does not prevent unraveling of fabric 

2. Not effective for loosely woven fabric 

3. In translucent fabric, the scallops of the pinking will show 

4. Loose threads when manipulating fabric 

5. The more the garment is laundered. the more the unraveling will occur.

6. If using a rotary pinking blade, a cutting mat is required.

The Stitched and Pinked Seam

Advantages 

1. The row of stitches retards the fabric from unraveling past the stitching line.

2. Works best with tightly woven medium to heavy fabrics.

3. Allows almost complete seam allowance for alterations. 

4. Seam allowance lies flat against the body 

5. Fast, easy only requiring a straight stitch sewing machine 

Disadvantages

1. If using pinking shears, light weight and loosely woven fabrics do not work well. The shears get stuck or cannot grab the fabric. These fabrics work better with a rotary pinking blade.

2. The thread of the stitching line may eventually pull away from the seam allowance as unraveling occurs.

3. The more the garment in laundered, the more the unraveling will occur.

4. If using a rotary pinking blade, a cutting mat is required.

The Machine Zigzagged or Overcast (Overlock) Finish Zigzag Seam

Advantages 

1. Effective in preventing unraveling of fabric 

2. Easy finish to execute, most common finish 

3. Seam allowance lies flat against the body

4. Does not add bulk to the seam. 

5. Makes a stronger edge for the fabric 

6. Inexpensive finish 

7. Holds up to frequent laundering 

8. Allows almost complete seam allowance for alterations 

Disadvantages 

1. Can be difficult to prevent puckering of seam allowance. You may want to use tissue paper under the seam allowance to help make smoother stitches. Tear-off tissue paper after stitching. This adds time to the finish.

2. Uses more thread, than other finishes 

3. Pressing incorrectly can leave an impression of stitches on the right side of garment 

4. Loose, unraveled threads will peak out between the stitches 

5. Does not look as neat as other seam finishes 

The Overcast Stitch (Overlock) 

Advantages 

1. Same as the zigzag, except it is more effective in keeping raw edges of the seam allowance from fraying. Overlock zigzag puts more thread on the edge of the fabric. 

2. Finger of foot decreases fabric puckering 

3. You have a variety of overlock stitches you can use that supply different amount of coverage for the edges. For most seam finishes the triple zigzag stitches are used.

Overlock stitches that can be used with the overlock foot are the vari-overlock, double overlock, stretch overlock, reinforced overlock and Jersey stitch. 

Disadvantages 

1. Uses more thread, than other finishes 

2. Requires a sewing machine that can do overlock stitches. A special pressor foot is required which is not included in with the basic feet that comes along with the sewing machine. 

3. Pressing incorrectly can leave an impression of stitches on the right side of garment. 

4. Depending upon the overlock stitch you choose, thread buildup may add bulk to the seam allowance.

The Lapped Seam

Advantages

1. Use with non-fraying fabric such as boiled wool, fleece, leather, vinyl or felt. It can be used with synthetic fabric that you seal with a hot knife such as the fabric, sunbrella.

2. Easy seam, inexpensive

3. Double stitches give strength to the seam.

4. This seams lies nice and flat.

5. This seam finish allows water, snow or leaves to fall off the fabric, such as with awnings, boats/car covers and outdoor flags/banners.

6. Depending upon the fabric, no pressing may be needed.

Disadvantages

1. Limited to fabrics that do not fray.

2. Does not work well on curves.

3. Pressing is not as essential, but may require special techniques, such as steaming and using a clapper. This is determined by the type of fabric used.

Part 2

Enclosed Seam Finishes, Adds Bulk

The Serged Seam Allowance

Advantages

1. Encloses the raw edges, preventing fraying

2. Quick and easy, stitching and trimming are done in one step

3. Multiple threads to secure raw edge, a combination of straight and zigzag stitches

4. Has some stretch so you can use it with woven fabrics that contain a percentage of Lycra

5. Has another row (3-thread overlock) or two (4-thread overlock) of straight stitches

that reinforce the seam

6. Works on any type of fabric

Disadvantages

1. It requires another, expensive sewing machine.

2. More specialized threads are needed

3. Requires time to thread and adjust serger tension

4. Not the most attractive seam finish

5. Adds some bulk to the seam

6. If pressed improperly, will leave a ridge on the right side of the fabric

7. Since you trim off the seam allowance you decrease the amount of fabric available for alterations.

The Turned And Stitched (Clean-Finished) Seam

Advantages

1. Neat and tailored finished to seam allowance

2. Prevents fraying

3. No additional cost

4. Easy to do and takes a moderate amount of time to execute

5. Full seam allowance to work with for future alterations

Disadvantages

1. Adds some bulk to the seam allowance

2. Requires pressing, turning the narrow fold of the seam allowance is often hot on your fingers

3. Works best with fabrics that take a crease well; synthetics may not lie flat

4. If pressed improperly, two ridges will appear on the right side of fabric

The French Seam

Advantages

1. Totally encloses the raw edges of the seam allowance

2. Very neat, elegant and tailored finish. Totally conceals seam

3. Durable seam finish, gives extra strength to the seam

4. Smooth feel to seam, important for people with sensitive skin such as a baby

5. Especially useful for thin, light or transparent fabrics

6. The seam method preferred by designers of high end garments

7. Holds up to frequent laundering

8. Only requires a straight stitch

Disadvantages

1. Adds bulk to the seam

2. Almost, but not quite, impossible to use on curves

3. Time consuming to make and a little complicated

4. Requires precise sewing

5. When trimming close to the first line, can cut threads by mistake

6. If you do not trim close enough to the first line, when you turn to the right side to

stitch, little frayed threads will poke out.

7. Very tedious if you have to take out the seam

8. Since you trim off the seam allowance, you decrease the amount of fabric available for alterations,

The Mock French Seam

Advantages

1. Uses a regular seam, easier to have accurate placement of seam

2. Works well on curved seams

3. Has a neat, professional appearance.

4. It is similar in appearance to a French seam. The garment looks consistent if you mix

French seams on straight seams and mock French seams on curves.

5. Easier to sew, less complicated and less time-consuming than French seam

6. Full seam allowance to work with for future alterations

7. The raw edges are completely encased

Disadvantages

1. Adds bulk to the seam

2. Difficult to fold edges with heavy fabric

3. Time-consuming, but less than standard French seam

4. Requires pressing; turning narrow fold of seam allowance is often hot on your fingers

The French Seam With Serger

Advantages

1. It makes it easier to turn and press the seam.

2. Serging totally encases the raw edge. No frayed threads poke out

3. The extra thread from the serging makes the edge very stiff, which helps when you turn the fabric around it and press it, neatly. This is especially true on lightweight and thin fabrics.

4. You do not need to trim the fabric after the first line of stitching, as the trimming

occurs with the serging.

5. The same advantages as standard French Seams

Disadvantages

1. Requires the use of a serger sewing machine

2. Requires more thread and specialized thread

3. You see the serger threads on transparent fabrics.

4. Same disadvantages as standard French seam

The Flat Felled Seam

Advantages

1. Strong, durable seam that is usually seen in sports wear

2. The raw edge is encased and top-stitched

3. Makes a neat, clean finish

4. Adds to design with the top-stitching

5. Can use either side of the garment, depending upon the garment design

6. Can be used on all types of fabric

7. Flatter seam treatment, cutting down on bulk

8. Comfortable on the skin

Disadvantages

1. Time-consuming

2. Requires precise pressing and sewing

3. Turning narrow fold of seam allowance is often hot on your

fingers.

4. Makes a top-stitched line on the outside that you may not want.

5. Folding the one seam allowance over the trimmed allowance requires fiddling

with the fabric

6. Reduces the seam allowance, so future alterations are not possible

The Flat Felled with a Flat Felled Presser Foot 

Advantages

1. The foot allows you to fold the fabric and stitch the seam, all in one step.

2. The foot controls the stitching, so it is in the  correct spot.

Disadvantages

1. Tricky to get the fabric under the toe of the foot 

2. You have to accurately determine the placement of the foot, in relation to the desired seam. 

3. This is not a basic foot, so you will have to purchase it separately.

The Hong Kong Finish

Advantages

1. Especially suited for heavy fabrics

2. Controls raveling 

3. Adds an interesting design element. Can add a decorative touch if a contrasting or coordinating fabric is used. 

4. Often used for high-end garments, especially unlined jackets and coats.

5. Totally encases the raw edge of the seam 

6. Less bulky compared to other bound seams 

Disadvantages 

1. Adds some bulk to the seam allowance

2. Adds cost to the garment for the bias strip

3. Time-consuming

The Bound Seam 

NOTE: This is the correct video although the instructor calls it a bound buttonhole, by mistake.

Advantages 

1. Neat, clean finish 

2. Raw edges totally encased, preventing raveling 

3. Adds an interesting design element. Can add a decorative touch, if a contrasting or coordinating fabric is used. 

4. You only need one row of stitching to encase the seam in the binding 

5. Less time-consuming than the Hong Kong finish, with purchased binding. This is not true if you make your own binding. 

Disadvantages

1. Adds cost to the garment 

2. Adds bulk to the seam allowance. Bulk can be minimized by the fabric you choose for the binding. 

3. It can be "fiddly," encasing the binding around the edge of the seam allowance 

4. Requires frequent pinning or glue-basting to keep binding on edge for sewing. 

5. Sometimes it may be necessary to sew binding to the edge, as in the Hong Kong finish. This adds another row of stitching. Next, you fold under the binding on the underside of the seam allowance followed by a second row of stitching. This adds considerable time to the seam binding. 

6. If using purchased double-fold binding, the bound finish is time efficient

The Seam Great (Nylon or Tricot Binding Strip)

Advantages

1. Prevents raveling, encases raw edges

2. Adds little- to-no bulk to seam allowance

3. Can be used on curved and straight seams

4. Holds up to laundering 

5. Seam Great is the trade name for a 5/8" nylon strip that can be purchased in 10 yard packages. Minimal cost 

6. Can be used on translucent fabric

Disadvantages

1. Definite learning curve to learn how to apply and sew the binding 

2. Requires minimal added cost 

3. Not the most attractive finish 

4. Would be easier to sew if the width was slightly larger 

5. Requires constant stopping to adjust binding before sewing 

6. Limited color selection. Seam Great comes in two colors, white and black. Most retailers only sell the white.

Don't fall apart at YOUR seams...😃...evolve...

About the Author...Nancy V. Karp

Nancy is a physical therapist, by profession, and a passionate sewist.  She is mainly interested in garment sewing.  She has written over 75 sewing and sewing equipment reviews which are on patternreview.com  She is a member of The American Sewing Guild, The North Augusta, SC, Group. Nancy loves hearing from other passionate sewists.  Her email address is nvkarp@gmail.com