Wasilla locksmith safe and vault
David Walz, master safe and vault technician
gunsmith, FFL dealer
5711 West Raspberry Loop, Wasilla Alaska 99623
I completed all of these projects working alone (drilling, welding, fabricating, repairing, etc.), you can click on any photograph to see the full image. This is only a few projects that I have performed.
Working on locksmithing since 1978.
Since I've been working on the safe, vault, and locksmithing business, I've seen a lot of locks that have been made from 1900- present. This includes vehicles, business, homes, safes, vaults, antique furniture locks and more. I have prided myself to be a technician who can take care of the job at hand. I have the same drive with firearms, I aim to service the firearm, and test fire it when I have completed the repairs.
If another locksmith says that he is the only one that opens safes in the valley, ask him for safe opening photos like I have provided here. If he can't produce a long list of work like mine, years of opening safes, he is not a "real safe technician" like me. I'm able to save you time and money. Not only can I work on safes I can,we'd them when necessary.
Call me, I'm friendly, honest, I am flexible with the customer on when they need the job done.
A electrical company had to find a way to secure their property, and merchandise from thieves. To protect the trailers contents from burglars, I've been installing a round Master lock and hasp. This is my solution, and I'm contemplating welding the hardware if needed.
David Walz, master safe & vault technician, locksmith
Check out the gunsmithing after the locksmith work.
The mission of Wasilla Safe & Lock, is to provide our customers with long lasting relationships, first class service, highest standards of ethics, integrity, product/labor warranty and offer only the best products for our customer needs. We are committed to maintaining complete privacy of our customers.
We understand that a very small percentage of people are not going to be satisfied no matter what anyone does for them, it's not a perfect world.
A Adesco money drop safe (a "money chest"), a lot of stores used Adesco safes back in the 1970's-1990's, it has some really thick material to drill through, it has some hard plate, and its mounted VU:
The combo's were incorrect.
This Adesco safe was locked up in Palmer Alaska, the customer set up an apointment and did not show up on two seperate ocasions. I simply decided not to deal with the customer for not showing up and explained to him that it cost money to travel to Palmer and not get paid.
About two weeks later he called me back and explained that "no one could drill the safe" he called every locksmith in the Mat-Su valley and they told him it was "impossible to open". I agreed to open it after he paid me for one of the trip charges, since it was only fair that I did make my apointment's on time. That was isssue before, the customer did not want to pay me for a extra service call by not showing up.
It took only 30 minutes for me to complete the job and everything worked out fine.
I later found out that the customer had placed a advertisment looking for some locksmith to open the safe to no avail.
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| This is a money chest that I drilled from the back and scoped it open in the change key hole.|| |
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| This customer had a break in, to prevent another break in I installed a mullion that I fabricated. This stopped anyone from fishing the panic hardware from the outside.|| |
Naval Amphibious Base
Combat Training Tank
This is a double door with the active door on the left. I installed a key pad, electrical box, and installed a fabricated bracket for the electric strike.
I worked on the Navy Seal Team's as a locksmith, safe technician, general repairs that were in line with my expertise supporting the Seal Team's needs. I also worked on the Boat Teams SWCC, and other specialized unit's of the Navy.
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This parlor safe is a great example of the Victorian era, it is a real work of art. Opening this antique was a challenge.
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Naval Air Station North Island
I was called out to a job where the glass store front door needed a lock installed. I determined the size of the CDX-09. ordered up a new piece of glass, built a box for the door and installed it.
This took a lot of time to fabricate the parts. Since then I have been called out to install two others just like this.
| I fabricated this gate using heavy duty hinges, a gate box, heavy duty steel. I installed it using lag bolts. I had to cut the bottom of the gate due to the sidewalk being uneven.|
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|This water tight compartment door needed a special lock welded on to the door and bulk head. This required eight hours of welding, grinding, and installing the new lock. It was a lot of work getting the job done without destroying the water tight compartment door rating. || I'm unable to show you the installed lock due to the ships security.|
| This is a table safe, the table safe was not really planned out well from the factory, the lid would tilt up instead of slide. I manufactured the table to slide, with a hidden lock. I also installed a light on the table safe. The safe was not unlocked and I had to drill it open, then repair it, it is a really nice, fire proof safe.|
| Tann Safe|
|I opened a Tann safe that both of the combo's were lost, it had been in storage for ten years, the safe weighs in at 5,000 LBS,It has two separate glass re-lockers, several mechanical re-lockers, concrete filled, thick drill resistance steel surrounding all of the six sides. The walls are 6" thick, this took around 6 hours to open without any damage to the locks, or the bolt work and it took only two 1/4" drill holes to open it. |
This door was not latching properly, I needed to repair several problems before the door would close and latch without pulling on the door to close it.
The newer closer was mounted on the outside of the door. When the air pressure changed inside the building the door would open. The closer was creating more problems, it was a cheap closer, and the door was tweaked. You never want to install a closer on the outside of the door, and this door was facing 100 feet from the ocean.
A new closer was installed inside the door, with a drop down plate. The closer is a LCN 4041, adjustable for any condition.
The threshold was preventing the door from closing, the threshold was loose, I was able to re-mount the threshold so the door will clear.
The door was binding on the frame causing it to spring out of the frame and preventing the door from closing shut. I moved the door out 3/16".
The Jackson panic hardware was broken, the latch would not hold the door closed. I replaced the hardware with a new one.
Overall, the issue was resolved, and I had checked the door several times after the repairs with no issues. The last repair person was called out several times and the military personnel who was in charge of the building was on edge about my repairs until I gave them my phone number and a warranty
Israel Safe Manufacturing or ISM
Retrofit the "second lock" to work a S&G key lock. No second lock, locking hardware was present on the safe after I drilled the safe open only the primary lock, the bolt extension needed to be fabricated. The safe needed to be taken apart to remove the plate shown below, a two hour process.
Fabricate a part.
The lock in position, attached to the locking bar.
It's done, 100% correct installation of the parts.
Safe & vault trailer
Part of my work is transporting safes, I built a trailer to do the job, it has a lift-gate with it's own battery, dual tires, heavy duty suspension, pintle ring, the frame has been designed for the safes, the trailer gets used almost every day for locksmith and safe tasks. The trailer weighs in at three thousand pounds, making it perfect for safes.
Water damaged safe
This in the floor safe was filled with water after a pipe burst in the home, the homeowner did not remember the safe being close to the bathroom where the water pipe burst and the water destroyed the safe within a year. When I opened the safe it was filled to the top with brown water. I was able to open this up with one drill hole free hand 1/8" drill through the dial mounting screw hole. Others I have done in the past were much worse that this one.
No drill hole seen.
Sub Base San Diego:
I have worked on the subs stationed at Sub Base San Diego dealing with the; safe locks, door locks, installing locks and more.
Special Warfare Group
Naval Amphibious Base Coronado
I have been working on safes, doors, locksmithing, fabrication for decades, and this is only a fraction of my work that I have done.
I enjoy tasks that are not redundant, I like new projects that are a challenge.
The photograph above is my truck, trailer, at Special Warfare Group NAB, where for years I worked under contract as a safecracker, locksmith, installer.
My tasks were:
- fabricate parts
- installed frames & doors
- removed vault doors & frames
- welded gates, boxes, broken doors & frames
- rekeyed locks
- installed locks & deadbolts
- cut out walls for door and frames
- cabinet door locks
- file cabinet locks
- panic hardware
- Special Warfare Group, San Clemente Island
- Boat Team 12
LKM 7000 SERIES
On the LKM series locks I have participated in;
on hundreds of these locks, they are the only lock that is approved for the United States Government as a ADA, life safety, using a X-09 lock. The LKM is manufactured by Lockmasters using some parts imported from other countries.
3rd Marine Aircraft Wing
Installing a electronic lock (S&G Brute Lock) on a (hatch) door:
This is not a normal door, the door is aluminum, wood, insulation, caulking, it has some issues to address before the installation begins.
The door hardware will interfere with the electronic lock if I do not make some adjustments.
Looking at the door from the inside I needed to remove a vertical bar that locks the door closed. This will not be a issue since the door has a three point locking system, installing a electronic lock will give the door more security and not less by taking off of one of the locking bars.
Using bolt going through the wall is more secure than just putting screws into the inside wall. From experience I have see other installations where mounting screws from the inside only have failed. This will make the electronic lock secured and it will not come loose.
The electronic lock installed on the wall, I do not mount the electronic lock on the door, the installation is more difficult and the electronic lock will be protected from the elements if it is mounted to the interior wall.
Installing the (IEI) keypad, I used a metal, weather proof box that is a stand alone model, the keypad is protected from abuse since the keypad is steel. Overall the weather proof box and keypad have had good success in this environment, the Marines like the performance and it is a good investment for the future.
The wiring is easy to work with, the top wire hole is for power, the second one down is for the electronic lock, and the third wire is for the Marine at the front desk to buzz in people at the door.
The strike is bolted through the door, preventing the strike from coming loose over time.
This is a typical job for me to do on the ships and bases of the military. The installations are all custom work and not text book jobs.
Hospital Camp Pendleton
It is not uncommon to have several safes to drill open at one time. I had to upright the safes before I could work on them, this job took five hours to complete, the safes are GSA approved, two being black labels and two being red labels.
Its called a safe party.
Opened and ready for repairs.
I enjoy working on handguns and rifles. I take them apart, servicing them, restoring them.
On some of them I have had to locate new parts, replacing the broken and worn parts.
I enjoy going on the shooting range,with a restored weapon close a hundred years old.
My You Tube Videos are not good quality, however if you are working on a firearm that is listed, they will come in handy for a reference.
I have other firearms that I have worked on, what I do is take the whole weapon down, clean each part, remove any crud that has been left over from the factory, remove old dirt and grime, clean the trigger assembly making the trigger pull clean and crisp. When I am finished the firearm is still factory, with nothing added or removed, just a smooth trigger pull.
This is only some of my work on firearms, these are the more interesting ones I've worked on. All of them are important, and I take pleasure in my job
Take down of a Colt Police Positive Special:
Take down of a Remington 03A3
Take down of a Colt .25
Take down of the Remington 870
Take down of the Ruger 10-22
Take down of a S&W Sigma 40VE
Take down of a S&W I Frame 1902
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Firearm repairs, service:
This CZ-52 pistol was a complete restoration, and everything was refinished.
The rebuilding of a M1917 Eddystone.
This M1917 was blown apart from someone firing a round into the barrel without checking the barrel for obstructions. I had completely rebuilt this M1917 using the stock, receiver, all of the parts. I used a new barrel, front stock and restored it to this condition on the left. Below shows the condition before it was repaired, which was real bad.
The damage above was to the stock, barrel and upper hand guard.
Below is the stock, as you can see I repaired it without any real seam showing, the stock was bedded since it needed to be reinforced so it would not crack where the repair was made.
This is where the crack was under the band, I left the new old piece in the condition I bought it to match the rest of the stock.
The barrel being cleaned up for the headspace.
Everything is correct for this Eddystone, except the sling was cheap junk, I located a new authentic sling that the manufacture made in 1917, yes they are still in business. I parkerized the M1917, since the barrel needed to be replaced and the steel was showing on most of the receiver. The stock was restored to look like it was before the damage, except it is sealed from the elements. I did not try to make this look new, I left the stock with the aged look.
On the range to test the firearm, a hundred round were shot without any problems, a check of the headspace every ten rounds showed no signs of problems, the receiver was checked for cracks and none was found after the shooting. All of the one hundred rounds were fired without allowing the rifle to cool down, this was important to find out if a problem did exist, under normal conditions a rifle would not be subjected to this harsh treatment except under test conditions.
My assistant helping me check the M1917, this M1917 is unique, it is not a 30-06, I converted it to a .300 Win Mag without any modifications to the receiver. The bolt is a .303 from the M1917's sister rifle so the bolt is not modified either.
This is not a light firearm, it weighs in at 14 pounds, a few pounds more that when it left the factory, so having to carry this on a hunt will take some effort, however it will take down a beast without any problems and the kick is not noticeable.
A 1911 transformation from a modern 1911 to a M1911 from WWII.
I started out with this handgun (above)and turned it into this (below):
The complete M1911 with all of the parts that were issued in WWII, I used Colt parts as they are a excellent fit and finish.
The only change was the release for the clip, it is make of stainless steel, which will not have a problem like the standard release.
The slide and the frame are printed like WWII Ithaca Gun Co.
The placement of lettering on the M1911 is exactly the same as a M1911 from WWI, and WWII.
All of the parts are made in the USA, no new parts were introduced except for the slide, barrel and frame.
The slide release, safety, and more were all sanded, cleaned and parkerized inside and out.
The end product is a WWII Ithica M1911. The fit and finish worked out well.
The 1911 was dissembled, all of the lettering was removed, and the parts were discarded.
The lettering on the frame was removed, this is was difficult as the lettering was deep and careful removal took time.
The barrel had lettering and that was removed also, keeping the couture on the barrel was extremal important.
The frame in the white, the lettering was removed.
The slide has been cleaned and polished.
The frame in the white, all of the frame has been sanded to remove all of the excess metal making the frame smooth inside and out. This extra step makes all of thee parts slip into place without binding causing a problem later on.
The barrel in the white, it was polished to work better in the slide.
The frame and parts were parkerized, protecting the firearm inside and out, the end result was a M1911 that was smooth to operate, easy to handle, and it looks like a WWII firearm.
This is a example of a WWII Ithica that I used for a example.