2007 G35 etrailer hitch install

Detailed walktrhough and pics for installing a hitch on 2007 Infiniti G35. Click on pictures for larger images! 

Hitch link:

Hitch at etrailer.com

PDF install instructions from etrailer 

Tools needed:

  • Socket wrenches (3/8” and ¼” recommended), with metric sockets. (Don’t recall exact sizes, but I think I used M8, M12, and then one very large socket like an M18 for the tie down bolt. You could also use a crescent wrench for that one).
  • Two medium flat bladed screw drivers.
  • Jig saw with plastic cutting blade or dremel tool
  • Painters tape and a marker
  • Ruler
  • Black spray paint
  • (Optional) Extra fascia body clips, Nissan part number is 01533-09241



Installation Instructions:


  1. Open the hitch parts. Find the square hole spacer plate and the hex flange nut, (identified as parts 2 and 3 in the etrailer install instructions.) Spray paint these black. If left as shiny metal, they look awful when installed. The look much better painted black!! Set these aside to dry as you complete the remaining steps.

Here are some pictures of it painted and installed:



  1. Remove the license plate.


  1. Mark the centerline of the bumper. When the license plate is removed, you will see an indentation and a notch in the middle of the bumper. I took some blue painters tape and centered the edge on the notch and ran a tape line down and underneath the bumper all the way to the back edge.


  1. Lay down on the ground, and stick your head underneath the bumper. Measure 7/8 of an inch from each side of this centerline and make a mark. (Note: it’s better to cut wide of this mark, than too short, as trimming the plastic can be difficult once the hitch is installed. So, when you cut, cut a bit on the outside of this mark.) Now, use your ruler and a marker to extend this mark towards the rear of the car until you reach the edge where the bumper bends upwards.


  1. Remove the two black fascia clips underneath the bumper. I did this by using two flat bladed screw drivers to pop the head out. The head will pop out  will come out about a quarter of an inch. Once the head pops up, you will need to pull the entire plug out. I found that the best way was to push it our from the back. I used the backside of a quarter inch socket, reach up underneath the edge of the bumper, put the square end over the top of the plug and pushed it out. Sounds complicated, but it is really easy. These clips are used all over the vehicle. You can reuse them, but if you want to pickup some extras just in case, the Nissan part number is 01533-09241 for a bag of 5. The parts dept. at my dealership just gave me two for free when I got my oil changed.


  1. Remove the black underbody panel from the vehicle. I believe there are four small screws, and two nuts holding it in place. All use the same socket. Once all of the fasteners are removed, pull the cover out and set it aside.


  1. Cut out the U shaped area from the bumper using your tool of choice. I found a jig saw at low speed works best. Wear safety or some sort of glasses, because you will be laying on your back, and plastic bits will get in your face and eyes!!


  1. Remove the aluminum bumper fascia spacer by removing the four M8 bolts. This was the hardest part of the entire install, (other than gathering the courage to cut your bumper), because the bottom bolts are hard to get to. Here is a tip: start with the bottom bolts. Use a small 1/4” socket wrench to loosen the bolts. Access these bolts by pulling the bumper away from where the license plate is and sticking the wrench in. Loose as much as you can, but very quickly it will be too loose so the ratcheting action of your wrench won’t work. Once this happens, remove the wrench and take the socket off. Stick the socket back on the bolt head. You should now be able to turn the socket by placing and index finger on either side of it and spinning it. Once the bottom bolts are removed, remove the top ones and pull the spacer out through the license plate hole. Recall how much effort it takes to loosen these bolts, (not much), because you will want to install them with the same torque.


  1. Put a washer supplied in the etrailer parts on each of these bolts so they are ready to go once you lift the hitch into place. (Not really sure why another washer is required, but I just followed the install instructions).


  1. Now it is time to mount the hitch. You will slide the hitch into place by going inserting the hitch from underneath the bumper. Line up the holes, and make sure that the hitch flange is on top of the tow loop.


  1. Hold the hitch in place, and re-insert the aluminum bumper fascia spacer. Line up the  holes, and get the top bolts started to hold the hitch into place.


  1. Tighten all four M8 bolts to 17 ft-lbs (not very tight, surprisingly enough. Recall how they felt when you removed them, and tighten them accordingly. Start the bottom bolts in a similar way to how you removed them.


  1. Attach the hitch to the tow loop using the etrailer supplied carriage bolt, square hole spacer and flange nut. Tighten to recommended torque, 75 ft-lbs (pretty tight). If necessary, touch these up with black spray paint.


  1. Raise the black underbody panel and mark the area you will need to cut out. Cut this area out, and test fit it, making sure everything fits OK. Trim any plastic on the bumper and body cover until you are satisfied with the fit


  1. Re-install the black underbody cover. Start at the bumper by inserting the underbody cover tabs up into the bumper and installing the fascia clips. Raise the cover into place and secure it with the original fasteners.


That’s it! Clean up, mount your bike rack, and go for a ride!

More pics of the finished product: