eMoto Parts & Costs

What and where: all you need to know to begin purchasing parts

Below is a summary of the major parts you need, followed by a complete parts list with the costs and a website where you can buy the part.

1. Motorcycle without a gas engine (aka a "motorcycle chassis" or a "rolling chassis")

2. Electric motor to propel the motorcycle

3. Batteries to supply the energy to the electric motor

4. A "motor controller" that delivers/regulates the energy from the battery to the motor. The controller also offers the regenerative capabilities, and can be easily "customize" by temporarily plugging it into a computer. The customization (i.e. reprogramming) is super easy, and is done using a simple program that has pre-defined options (the program is typically provided by the controller manufacturer or purchased separately. The Kelly controller used for eMoto comes with the required software). The controller can be customized/reprogrammed to provide different acceleration profiles, etc.

5. A twist grip throttle that sends an electric signal to the controller - which determines how much energy is sent to the motor from the batteries - and thus the driving speed. The signal is typically zero to five volts or ohms depending on the type. The type (signal being volts or ohm) of throttle depends on the controller.

6. A DC to DC converter that takes your new battery pack voltage (72 Volts) and converts it to 12 Volts, so you can use your new battery pack to run the lights, signals, etc. on the existing motorcycle (since they run on 12 Volts).

7. A battery charger to re-charge your batteries for continual (cyclic) use.

8. A high-current switch that will connect the batteries to the controller. It acts as the on/off switch. This is some times called a "contactor".

9. A high-current fuse to limit the amount of energy draw from the batteries in case of a short/failure. 

10. An instrument to measure your current and voltage in real-time.

11. A large sprocket ratio to reduce the amount of current required when accelerating (this can be accomplished with a large custom rear sprocket and a small front sprocket/pinion on the motor). 

 There are a few other semi-major components. All are listed below with the respective cost and a website where they can be purchased.

Parts and Cost List:

1. 2007 LIFAN TMS Motorcycle w/out an Engine: $650
WebPage

Click HERE for more information on how you can order this same motorcycle w/out an engine.

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2. Motor (Mars Electric: ME0709, 300 amps peak and 125 amps continuous, 24-72 VDC, brushed PM): $481
WebPage 

Motor Engineering Drawing here (dimensions, etc.)

Motor Performance Plots

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3. Batteries (6 x 12 Volt B&B EVP44-12 Batteries): $280

WebPage

Battery Manual here

Copper lugs for battery cables (Qty = 25): $15
WebPage

Battery cables (welding #4 wire, 18 feet): $28
Ebay

Click HERE for instructions on making the battery cables.  

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4. Controller (Kelly Controller: KD72301, 300A for a PM with Regen): $350
WebPage

Manual and Wiring Diagram for Kelly Controller here

Click HERE for a simplified controller wiring diagram I put together.

Click HERE to download the program needed to modify the controller settings.

Adapter for controller to PC: $9
WebPage

RS232 cable from controller to PC: $9
WebPage

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5. Throttles (2 x Magura 0-5K Twist Grip): $100 (for two: one for regen/-acceleration and one for +acceleration): $100
WebPage

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6. DC/DC Converter (60V-84V to 12V 300W): $100
WebPage
Note: very large - might consider a different one. 

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7. Chargers (6 x Soneil 12 Volt 3 Amp Constant) 6 individual 12 Volt chargers. This was chosen to provide proper charging for each of the 6 batteries: $260

WebPage

Charger Manual / Instructions here

Each battery has it's own charger. No diodes (I'm assuming the charger has something like that inside). The battery charger is attached to the battery just like it would if it was being charged by itself on a bench (+ to + and - to -).

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8. High Current Manual Switch: $17
Local automotive store (I'm sure you could buy it online too).

The above is just a low cost high-current manual switch like this one (typically red). Later on I added a full contactor (in addition to the red manual switch). I didn't have any problems with just the manual switch, but I become more concerned with safety cut-offs after the controller went bonkers on me one time. The cheap red automotive switch was able to cut the power w/out fusing, but a contactor makes me feel better. Here's the one I bought:

Albright SW180L, 24V for activation, rated for 200 Amps

Data sheet is HERE (note the terminal/lug size is M8)

Note: The 24V is the voltage required to activate the switch (so I had to bleed off 24V from my pack). 

Also note that I bought the pre-charge resistors and diode, which are HERE
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9. High Current Fuse (ANE 200A-500A) and Holder: $15
WebPageWebPage
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10. Measurement Display / Real-time Analysis (Cycle Analyst CA-HC). This measures the energy, voltage, etc. in real-time: $181
WebPage 

Cycle Analyst Manual / Instructions for wiring here

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11. 72-tooth sprocket for rear: $78

Azusa Engineering, tony@azusaeng.com

12-tooth sprocket for motor: $14
McMaster Carr, Part #: 2500T444
WebPage

ANSI #40 chain: $33
Electricmotorsports
WebPage

or order a chain from Tony w/ the sprocket above:

Azusa Engineering, tony@azusaeng.com

Click HERE to see the chains Azusa/Tony has.  
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Electrical Plug for Tank (for charging with extension cord): $10
WebPage 

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L-brackets (for battery supports, Steel, 2'' x 2'' @ Local hardware store or McMaster): $50 

Threaded rod (for battery supports, Steel, 1/4-20 thread @ Local hardware store or McMaster): $10

Misc items (nuts, bolts, shrink wrap, wiring, etc., switch for controller, etc.): ~$200 

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Other options (considered but did not purchase):

Throttle: Hall 0-5V Twist Grip
WebPage

Charger (24V-72V/15A-40A)
WebPage

Main Contactor (24-84 VDC Coils 400Amps)
WebPage
 

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