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Phaser Type-III LTX Mod


Based on Corey Beauregard's LTX Eliminator mod on Starbeamers and decided to make my own.



I'm using G36 from Double Eagle MK49 K2 (the sniper version), which cost only $25~30 online. And it's very easy to gut and strip the interior.

 Airsoft G36 & LTX

With drills and exacto knife and modeling cutters I've managed to cut away G36 casing, and carved out the place for LTX speaker. I recommend Tamiya cutters and they're really sharp and chop through plastic like butter.


If you click the above image you can see I've taken apart the LTX scope and attached the black connector on the LTX, although I've decided not to add LTX scope on it later.

  • Screw the accessory rails on both side of shot-blast module (on the black dotted heat vent casing), I can attach flashlight and laser dot.
  • Insert G36 flash breaker in shot-blast barrel to make it look more realistic.
  • I've opened up te shot blast and there isn't much space to integrate the bipod, the only viable place is near the batteries slot. I've decided to drop the bipod idea.



  •  I've screwed the stock on the LTX, and it worked! I've compared it to a un-modded G36C (not the same as the G36K I used.) The stock will be hold in place when a small super magnet.



Assembled G36 LTX before painting

  •  The shot-blast  module is still removable by unscrew the rail off, making the main gun shorter, look like spec-ops weapon.


The next step took me 5 days (or about 6 hours) of work, but I finally painted it according to my paint scheme.

There are some people asking me to write more about how I did it, I didn't prepare this but I've taken enough pictures to show you my steps.

  • Tape the parts that you don't want to be painted, in this stage the sensor dome and black areas.
  • Use 400 grit sand paper to sand the entire blaster so the paint will adhere better.



  • The black areas of the shot blast module was taped, and other area sanded.
  • Spray the entire blaster with 1000 grit surfacer. Note the orange area is too bright and can not be covered by surfacer.



  • First paint the black areas, also spray over all the orange areas. By doing so we've prepared the orange part to be painted silver.
  • You can see I've added the starfleet logo near the trigger, it was made by Tamiya plastic board (maybe 1mm or 2mm thick).



  • Added folded stock holder, I built it with epoxy bondo with magnet inside. Sanded smooth and stick it under the dome. According to TagFerret the magnet will not affect the performance of the blaster, so don't worry about it.
  • On the stock I used heat glue to hold some screws in place for the magnet to work.

  • Mask each area after you've spray-painted it. When you finally finished the last color, then it's time to rip off all the tapes and see your result!



Below you will find my paint scheme and finished rifle.

Paint Scheme and Final Outcome

A close up on the front.

You can see near my thumb there's a small starfleet symbol, so this baby is starfleet-issued. Also note the added structure under the sensor dome with a magnet designed to hold the folded stock.