If you want to do a repair yourself, without the hassle, here are a couple of kits I have for sale either direct or via ebay.
They are small and light enough to post anywhere in the world.
There are two versions.. one for 12v supply and one for higher voltage laptop type supply.
The kit will fix a dead power supply in any TC Gen 1-4.. but this is a problem that is particularly related to Gen1 A1254 and Gen2 A1302 models.
If you have a Gen3 or Gen4 then this is unlikely to be the issue.. or at least the only issue.
Although this page is particularly related to Gen3 the later Gen4 are starting to experience similar issues. None have fallen into my hands yet but I expect the same kind of thing..
Please tell me your model number when you order so I can help you rather than send you a kit that will just replace a working power supply.
The board is based on a KIM-055L module rated at 5v 5A supplying both HDD and TC main board. This is highly efficient unit.
It is mounted on a piece of PCB with insulation underneath. I use Tantalum capacitors now for space and better life span.
You simply remove the existing supply and plug this in.
Screw the DC connector into the existing AC hole on one side.. screw the nut on the front.
I will supply a 12v suitable power supply. They will either come with a power cord or have standard figure 8 power so you can use your old power cord.
The board sits in the space where the original power supply was.. it fits exactly in vertical height so the heatsink visible on the top of the converter, will touch the metal baseplate when you screw it back on.
The original 7200rpm drives in the TC are poor from temperature point of view.. although good drives.
Now is a good time to replace it with a 2TB green drive.. the whole TC will run a lot cooler.
They run barely warm and leaving it open again allows the parts to cool without building up heat in enclosed space.
I use silicon insulated wire now.. correctly colour coded as far as possible. That way we all know what is 5v and what is 12v.
In order to improve cooling.. leave the rubber bottom mat off. I place some small rubber feet on each corner to stop it sliding around.
The space allows air flow.. With the fan out.. and since Apple gave us a beautiful drilling template, I just drilled out some of the holes.. so they work for ventilation..
No body will see them.. and keeping natural ventilation there is no dust or filter to clean.
The area immediately under where the fan sits gets extremely hot.. so if you want, a few more holes there will not go astray.. I drill them out to 5.5mm and use a 6.5mm drill to clean up the holes.
Don't worry if you find it too hard to do.. I don't think at normal temperatures it adds much.. if anything.. it is aimed at our Australian summer time.
The rubber mat is supposedly conductive rubber.. heat conductive that is.. but it doesn't work very well,, heat conductive rubber vs aluminium I would classify the rubber as an insulator.
But the rubber is for electrical isolation as the TC in original form is mains powered non-earthed so must insulate all exposed metal.
Without mains power we no longer need electrical isolation. So removal of the rubber mat helps handle the heat.
I made a second unit, as lots of us have old laptop power supplies and they are available cheaply in second hand shops and ebay.. genuine ones will last many years beyond the life of the laptop usually.This is 3 converters .. the first one generates 12v for the hard disk. The laptop supply has many different plugs and you may need to cut off the old one and solder on a new one. That isn't hard to do.
And I am happy to supply a suitable plug with the kit. This provides solid protection against wrong voltage damaging the hard drive.
3. TC supply using 5V.. $40pp
This is simple wiring loom, that allows you to pull out the hard disk. And just run the TC. Picture coming.. but it will be like the number 1 with a simple power supply and sufficient just to power the board.
After a disk has died you may want to use your TC just as an airport extreme. Check with me as I might be able to do this simply for you. It also makes a simple DIY job.
I open the supply and replace the cable.. they use a 4pin connector.. this works very well.. you can either file the edges of the TC power port just a tiny bit.. hardly notice and the connector will fit through.. join up inside.. it is a bit crude but it works fine.
Or I can make them cheaper with just a piece of connector strip and screw the terminals in.
Less sophisticated and not as neat as the full $80 kit but I hope it is cheap enough since a lot of people seem to be after a cheaper solution.
I will supply the power supply and then internal wire parts but you will need to get your own standard IEC power cable.. I cannot supply them from here.
Orders via email
Payment is by paypal to the same email address.. from anywhere.. it is the easiest method.. and even if you don't have paypal can be used.
Postage is $15-20 anywhere in the world. Just email with your location and model number of the TC you have from the rubber base.
For Australian orders direct bank account payment is appreciated. And if you live in Melbourne, drop in for on the spot repair and cash payment.
I can also repair an existing power supply and occasionally sell a refurbished one.. these will be via ebay generally.
Repairing the internal supply fixes the symptoms but the problem will reoccur without extensive modification to the cooling.