Replace the dead Electrolytic Capacitors.
IMPORTANT:: YOU MUST DO THIS BEFORE THE REPAIR. Discharge the main supply caps. I use a 560ohm 5W ceramic resistor. see pic 3 below. It is big and insulated and easy to grab (the insulated part that is). In the kit I send a 300ohm with insulated leads. I have found 187v after the TC was off for 2weeks or even more. Just turned off the caps will be charged to 350v, enough power in them to hurt you. Maybe even lethal... unlikely maybe... but don't be the first to find out.
Click each picture to expand it and see the details .. they are high res. but fairly small so should load pretty fast.
1. Open wrappers 2. Open the join. 3. Discharge the caps.. ASAP 4. Fully remove the plastic 5. Carefully cut off the goop.
6. Bad 1500uF 7. All 4 caps removed. 8. Close-up caps gone 9. 470uf-16v 470uf-6.3v 1500ufx2 10. Clean out the holes. Map pin**
The cap that was probably causing the failure was the 470uf 16v tucked into the angle of the heatsink. It also looks fine.. it was very high ESR.
Don't be fooled by looks.. the only one that doesn't generally need replacement is the 12v supply which is left on the board.
The list of caps is
1x 470uf 16v (8x12mm)
1x 470uf 6.3v (I often use 1000uf for this, 8x12mm at most)
2x 1500uf 6.3v (10v would be better but they need to be 8x20mm, very high grade and high ripple type)
They need to be high grade caps.. low ESR 105C. Buy best brands, from reputable dealers.. ebay has huge number of fakes. I have a draw full of fakes.. what they send you is not what is in the pictures.
You can also use solid type caps of correct size and rating.
Once finished you can recover the foil shield and use that to wrap around the supply.. it is RF and may have some safety factor.
Note in picture 14..and 15.. I slide a couple of offcuts of the plastic into the high voltage side to double insulate that area. With another small dab of silicon.
I couldn't help adding this...
As soon as I finish I test for shorts with a meter.. and carefully inspect all solder joins. Use magnifying glass or something high power to see carefully.
Then immediately place in the TC to test. I haven't had a failure yet at turn on.. but you can leave it on power for a few hours to heat up the supply and set the silicon.
If you run into trouble you can peel it open and immediately wipe off the silicon. Remember this is plugged into mains.. don't touch whilst powered and remember every time you power on.. you will need to discharge the caps to safely work on the unit.
I said use silicon putty as glue.. let me clarify that.. because I bought a tube of cheaper stuff and it is ok except it seems to have too much acid in it and eats the copper.
The good grade putty is fine.. you should really buy electrical silicon.. but that costs a mint.
So let me just suggest you test a dab on a bit of copper wire to see if it starts to go green, don't use it. Never had this happen with higher grade Dow Corning stuff.. or even Aldi ones.. just the own brand hardware store.
Don't get it for this job at least.. fine for non-metallic I guess. Roof and Gutter type should be fine. Clear or white.. but I have occasionally bought grey as well.
Good job if everything now runs as it should... but how long before the disk dies or the power supply needs recapping again... all because the initial cause of the problem hasn't been fixed. It runs too hot... and the fan never works to assist.
See fan mod. Apple Time Capsule Fan mod
Or follow the type1 or type3 repair and use an external power supply, Apple Time Capsule Repair
If you are in Australia I am offering a repair service as well as freely offering all this info to help other users.
Just click on above link and go to the Repair Service, and send me an email.
I can also send you a bunch of the right capacitors cheap by post. It is not easy to get them in small quantities.
If you want a set of capacitors and the pre-printed films.. you still have to cut them out.. email me.
That is also paypal account.. so you can pay directly into it.. $11 in Australia.
And finally let me restate the warning
WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING --
The power supply has a pair of electrolytic capacitors on the live side... ie the pair of 39uF 400v. Do not touch any part of the power supply without discharging them.
What happens if you repair the supply and wrap the broken up insulation back without taking sufficient care... remember that metal foil insulation must be protected from top and bottom where it touches both boards.. the TC earths it to the case when you screw the bottom on, as well as to the gigabit ports on the front, (back??)
Poor Dion who emailed me... a pretty fair attempt to repair it.
Unfortunately Plan A (Repair Type2) didn't work.
After replacing the caps and reinstalling the power supply I plugged in the mains and a large bang plus smoke emitted from the mains end of the supply circuitry.