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Coil Construction

[Updated 12/1/15]

What do we know for sure?  Well, as the passage of time has shown, what we thought at any given point in time, has changed several times.  The process has resembled "trying to nail JELLO to a tree."  So, we are changing the format to what we think we know as of the update time, above.  [These revisions are the result of updates from the 89th Knowledge Seeker's Workshop 11/26/15.]

    1.  It is recommended that the coils be made from #14 AWG bare solid Copper Wire.

    2.  Wind the coils around 4mm and 10mm rods.

    3.  Wind all your coils in the same direction.  We still prefer the left-hand coil format, until we learn otherwise.

    4.  Make your long coils 144 turns.

    5.  Make your short coils 81 turns.

    6.  The outer loop should be very close to the inner loop when assembled.

    7.  Nanocoat with heat.

[more clarification to come]

    


    



----------------------------------  Older Information ( some outdated?) appears below:

  Known.  It is recommended that the coils be made from #14 AWG bare solid Copper Wire.

  Known.  On 11/16/2015 myself and Armand (of the KF Local Group Long Beach) met here in Long Beach, California for over 2 hours with Armen Guloyan of KFSSI Italy.  What we learned,  (in short, a lot) will take a while to fully incorporate into this Site.  My set of Right-Hand wound coils fabricated Saturday, 11/14/15 (like a right-hand threaded screw) are going to be recycled into something else.  They are NOT going to be incorporated into my first Magrav unit.

I will have to wind a new set, and they will be Left-Hand coils.  Turns out, I was right the first time, and my recent change of heart, was incorrect.  Do what you will, but this Site is now officially taking the position that Magrav coils should be wound Left-hand.  Anti-clockwise means, look at one end of the coil you are holding in your hand with the other end extending away from you.  Trace the path the windings take as they move away from you in a spiral.  The direction the spiral takes away from you should progress in a counter-clockwise direction.  This information is directly from Keshe Foundation's representative who wanted to meet with us today, 11/16/2015.

    Can't tell the difference?  Perhaps if we adopt a more certain technology that doesn't require you to consider windings as coming towards you, or going away from you, consider my argument below.

It is BEST to be able to describe a finished coil as having the appearance of either a Right-Hand threaded screw, or a Left-Hand Threaded Screw.  Photo is of standard right-hand threaded drywall screw.

Typical Right-Hand Threading

  
    The photos in the Coil Production Step-by-Step PDF dated 10/30/15, are indeed incorrect.  The closeup, below, is of how the image originally appeared.  IT IS WRONG.  IT IS A RIGHT-HAND COIL.

THIS IMAGE IS WRONG.

So, to show you what the image should have been like, according to our visit with the KFSSI representative, we have flipped the photo about the vertical axis, so that it is now shown to represent the correct way of winding, below.


    THIS IMAGE IS CORRECT

    I tried some practice winding of coils using a 35" long drill bit in a battery operated electric drill.  It was pretty effective.  I tried both directions.  These are just for illustration only -- they still have colored insulation on them.  The black one is right-hand and the white one is left-hand.

right and left coil samples


        It was easiest for me, in the practice run, to add wire to the coil going away from me.  Either winding direction was fairly easy.

  Known.  Inner Coil consists of 81 Turns.  Outer Coil consists of 162 Turns.  (The "counter clocwise" is in the original blueprint photo -- I didn't add it.)

THE NUMBER OF WINDS IS CORRECT.  THE DIRECTION THESE ARE WOUND IS WRONG.

But what diameter of winding rod should we use?   There's a hint in the Coil Production Step-By-Step in one of the photos:   They show a coil (but don't tell us which one) which has an outer diameter of about 1cm (see below).



[Disregard the following language in Italics for the time being until I can update it.  When I wound my coils, Armen Guloyan pointed out that they did not have adequate clearance between them.  More on Dimensionality when I can update the language]

Looking at the diameter of the wire relative to the overall width, I'm thinking that they are showing the small coil.  Measure on your screen the width of the wire with calipers (or a compass or pair of scissors, whatever) and compare the dimension with the mm scale.  Looks like about 1.5.   #14 AWG Wire is usually 1.6mm or so.  That's why I think this is the smaller coil.

So we have an overall width of 10mm.  2 x 1.6mm = 3.2mm leaving us 6.8mm of hollow interior to the coil.  Since copper has some elasticity, it will "spring-back" a certain extent from trying to bend it around a rod.  Thus the rod should be smaller than 6.8mm.  I'd guess it expands around 10% or so.  We should then figure on a round about 6.8mm - 0.68mm = 6.1mm or so.  Converting to inches, we have 0.2401 inches.  I'd say start with a 1/4" diameter winding rod for the small coil, and see after a few winds if it has a relaxed outer diameter of 10mm (0.394").  Until I've done it, I can't say for certain, but this seems like a good direction for starters.

Since the Coil Production Step-By-Step indicates that the small diameter coil should fit within the larger diameter coil -- "Coils must be close touching each other and still have room for movement" -- we should probably have an outer coil that is perhaps 1mm larger on the inside diameter than the inner coil has as an outer diameter.

Here's the Caveat - we should probably select the larger winding rod size after we have created the smaller coil and measured its outside diameter -- or take a risk that they won't have the mandatory ("must") dimensional interactions.

We could shoot from the hip, and find a winding rod that is between 10 and 11mm, knowing that the springback from the winding process will probably leave us with some extra space, hopefully not too much.  11mm is 0.433", so a 1/2" winding rod would probably be too large.  7/16" rod is 0.4375" in diameter, which is closer to the mark.  I'd guess we could probably get away with 7/16".  It should be commercially readily available here in the US.

[All for now, 11/3/15 09:00 PDT]




      [if you've found other ways that work well, let me know and we can put them up here].
  


[That's all I have for now, more later]


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