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Refinements in Grafting

Contact Info

Tree Information

Brief Description Of Citrus Trees

The Story Of The Panzarella Orange and Lemon

Why You Want to Grow Citrus Grafted on Trifoliata

History of the Raspberry Tangor

The Story of the Genoa Loquat

The Story of the Tennousi Pear

My Experience with Miracle Fruit

My Favorite Fruits, Nuts and Vegetables

A Misunderstanding of the Republic of Texas Orange

Taking Care of Trees

How to Take Care of a New Citrus Tree

Growing Your New Citrus Tree in a Container

Cirus Leaf Miner

Citrus Rust (Silver) Mites

How to Grow Peaches

How to Grow Pecans

How to Grow Pecans Along the Gulf Coast



How To Catch a Racoon With His Sweet Tooth

Where to Purchase Citrus Graftwood

How to plant Seeds

Christmas Day 2004

Citrus Terms

Texas Citrus Laws

Gardening Organizations Worth Joining

If you want to plant your citrus plant in the ground, be sure and wait until after the last chance of a freeze.  If you keep it in the original pot for six months, take it out after that time by laying it on its side and mashing the plastic gently to loosen it from its sides.  Then pull the ball out of the pot and examine to see if it is root-bound.  If root-bound either put it in the ground or in the next size larger pot and make up the extra space with pine bark mulch.

Planting in the ground:  Plant in a sunny location, preferably south of a brick or stone wall, where it will get some radiation from the wall and protection from the winter north winds.  For best results plant in good loose fertile soil.  If you have hard gumbo soil, till in some sharp sand (sand that is used to make concrete) to loosen it up.  Soil of a pH of about 6 to 6.5 is best.  You can lower the pH by adding pine bark mulch, or you can increase the pH by adding lime, but having to add lime is rare in our area soils. Make a raised bed or at least slightly higher than ground level so it will be slightly above soil level when it finally settles in. The hole should be at least twice as big as the root and dirt ball. Do not put fertilizer in the hole. After planting water in to get out all the air pockets.  You can slightly sprinkle some fertilizer after the first watering.  Do not use fertilizer stakes -ever.

Fertilizer:  Fertilize your citrus tree each month during the growing season, which is March-June with a high nitrogen fertilizer.  At least once a year fertilize your tree with a fertilizer that has trace elements that are high in Iron, and Zinc, and includes Magnesium and Molybdenum.  Turf magic's "Premium Fruit Citrus & Pecan Food" 16-7-5 (PFC&PF) is good but a little low in Zinc (0.05%).  Sta-Green's 3 month "Azalea Camellia & Rhododendron Food" 14-7-7, 14 lb bag is almost the same as PFC&PF, but has 1% Iron instead of the 2% in PFC&PF.  Both of these can be purchased at Lowes.  Scotts' "Citrus Food" 18-5-18 time-release fertilizer is a little harder to find and comes in 2.5 lb boxes.  It includes 0.5% Iron, 0.25% Zinc, and 1.0% Magnesium.  If you have a serious Iron deficiency you can apply Copperas (Ferrous Sulphate).  Follow the directions on the bag.(Note: each year the fertilizer companies change their formulas so the mention mixes may no longer be available.)

Most of my trees are grafted on trifoliate rootstock except for the lemons, limes, and seedlings which are on their own roots. Pinch or cut off any new growth that forms below the graft on the grafted trees.  The trifoliate grafted trees will eventually grow to be about eight to ten feet tall and eight to ten feet in diameter, so set apart knowing they will get that big.  The seedlings are unpredictable and could get much larger.  The lemons and limes get about the same size as the grafted trees, but do not plant your lime in the ground because it is the tenderest of all the citrus to freezes.  Trifoliata rootstock does not like sodium which can come from watering with water containing minerals.  You can decrease the sodium in your soil by adding gypsum.  It will replace the sodium with calcium.

Citrus Leaf Miner: Should your tree get curly leaves with brown veins going in all directions though the leaves, you probably have the Citrus Leaf Miner (CLM) eating your leaves.  It is a tiny moth that lays her eggs at night on the bottom of the leaf.  The larva hatches out and burrows just under the epidermis (skin) of the leaf.  Once it is inside the leaf it can not be killed except by systemic insecticides.  Sprays that will kill CLM are: "Tree & Shrub Insect Control (T&SIC)", by Bayer, "Lawn and Garden Spray with Spinosad" by Green Light at Wal-Mart, "Conserve SC" (best buy, buy it on ebay), "Agri-Mek", "Admire Pro", "Provado 1.6F", "Confirm 2F", and "Prodigy".  "T&SIC, Provado 1.6F, and Admire Pro" are systemic and are the best for nonfruiting,.  Dormant Oil slows them down, but be careful not to burn the citrus leaves with the oil in the summer.  All the sprays mentioned are commercial sprays and are hard to get except for T&SIC, Spinosad, and Dormant Oil.   Follow the directions on the bottle on how to apply.  Click on  my link  citrus leaf miner for more details.

John Panzarella      
 April 24, 2007 revised 10/24/07

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