Lost and Found: Praha
13 - 18 May 2007

For me Prague wins the Most Romantic City - over Paris, Rome and Venice. The castle is beautiful, the buildings are beautiful, the river is beautiful...and if you know where to go, you can avoid the leery British stag parties out to get drunk on cheap Czech beer.


Eat at:

  • A candlelit Baroque palace hidden on the second floor of a non-descript building. Palffy Palac was expensive by Czech standards, but a bargain for the West given the stunning setting, fantastic service and delicious Czech food.
  • U Zlate Studne. Go down an alley, then another alley, then another alley....to enjoy a buffet breakfast looking over the rooftops of Prague, a terrace for enjoying the sun, and entry into the Prague Castle gardens through the secret entrance once used by the Emperor.
  • Pode Mostem (AD1357) Possibly the most romantic restaurant in Prague. Hidden away under the first arch of the Charles Bridge, it's a waterside outdoor terrace lit by candles and flaming torches, so everyone looks beauteous.
  • Cafe Savoy. A recommendation from a Czech colleague for breakfast (their pastry selection looked good too!). Relax under the chandeliers, eat your enormous breakfast, sip hot chocolate and read English newspapers - all for about 6 euros. After 2 hours I was so relaxed I accidentally gave a 200 CZK tip instead of 20!

Drink at:

 Tretter's cocktail bar., where they ice your champagne glasses with a twist of the wrist and serve it with a bowl of ripe strawberries.

Shop at:

  •  Manufaktura for Czech-made natural beauty products.
  • Ahasver Antiques. The friendly owner gave me a brief history on my purchases: linen napkins, an art deco crystal scarf pin and a Czech glass christmas decoration. There's also a cool spice shop around the corner.

Try to:

  • Visit the Museum of Communism...located above McDonalds and next to the Casino! The interrogation room is creepy.
  • Go to Franz Kafka Museum. I don't think I actually understood Kafka's work any more after the visit, but the layout and ambience of the museum was quite cool. Plus when you blink your way back to the sunlight there are riverside bars nearby in which to lounge.

Interesting sights when you get lost:

Looking up at the entrance of a photography gallery and seeing a white mannequin sitting on the archway - with a red beating heart.

A store that sold nothing but American brass heaters - talk about niche market.


Palffy Palac: Valdstejnska 14, Mala Strana, Praha 1

Restaurant U ZLATÉ STUDNĚ:
U Zlaté studně 166/4, Praha 1

Pode Mostem: U Luzickeho seminare, Mala Strana, Praha 1

Cafe Savoy: Vitezna 5, Praha 5

Tretter's Cocktail Bar: V kolkovnì 3, Praha 1

Manufaktura: Various locations

Ahasver Antiques: Prokopska 3, Praha 1, Mala Strana

Museum of Communism, Na Prikope 10, 1st Floor, Praha 1

Franz Kafka Museum: Cihelná 2b, Praha 1-Lesser Town

Gallery Fotografic: Stribrna 2, Praha 1, Stare Mesto